Still trying to figure out why the KA isn't running perfectly. This video shows cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve, Doing a boost leak test and replacing the Knock Sensor. LIKE, COMMENT, SUBSCRIBE! Instagram: Builtlikethis
Time for science: red is a color that the human eye doesn't see as well as the others and green is a color that the human eye sees better than any other. That's why your alarm clock numbers are illuminated red and why night vision usually always has green illumination. Red light also has a lower energy so it won't interact as much with other elements and green is smack dab in the middle of our visible spectrum. -snakezulu7, b.s. in astrophysics
Thanks for the shout out. I think you need to run the maf on the cold side after the intercooler to help the stalling issue. Blow through MAF is what they call it. Southernhooning on RU-vid had the same issue too on his KAT and he fixed it by moving the maf. just a suggestion.
Awesome stuff as usual! I suggest getting a length of hose, cutting it in half lengthways and then slotting it onto the battery tray hole for the Cold Side IC pipe. That pipe will move around a fair bit with the engine, and if the steel touches it at all, it'll eventually put a hole in it. Putting the rubber hose on the steel part will ensure you won't have any issues. Keep up the excellent work!
As many people have mentioned, the stalling is due to your BOV venting to atmosphere. you need to get a recirculating BOV and return it between the MAF and turbo. If you remove the BOV all together, that will also solve your problem, but you will run into other issues such as compressor surge that could potentially damage your turbo or other parts of your system, however this may be a quick way for you to test and make sure that is in fact your problem.
My knock sensor was cracked like that too... My ka stopped running right, which sucks. I replaced a bunch of stuff, to no avail. Sounds like a subaru..
ohm the harness. it looks like it's supposed to. that is shielded wire, the black wire is grounded. sensor could probably be bad, as you've discovered. keep up the hard work.
You should honestly try recirculating your BOV.. the richness after you boost and let off is not helping the situation.. I run a OEM VW recirc valve and pipe it back into the intake. You will notice a better idle, faster spool between shifts and less hesitation.. MAFs are not designed for air thats already accounted for to be vented. Just an idea, otherwise good job finding those boost leaks, I am gonna try the same thing this weekend. As for the knock sensor, there is stranded wire that acts as a ground and to cut interference from other wiring and the motor so the knock sensor can work properly
Did you find the problem have same problem with my rb25, but mine is worst rev go to high when cold and when warm it become unstable and when I brake or press the clutch it's stall but then comes up and stabilize a little .........then when I'm on Boost it cut the power like going lean!...if some know let me know lol
Why do you go into boost then just hold the clutch down? If you drive it normal does it stall? I have a very similar setup and it does it from time to time but never dies out. Just recirculate your bov if it bothers you that much.
Im just trying to show the issue. If I drive normal it occasionally stalls. But drifting is where its really annoying. And its not the blow off valve ive already ruled that out. Its capped so it will never open.
im pretty sure that pigtail for knocksensor has the one wire cuz it just needs the signal wire and it grounds itself.. as for ur issue... nooo clue either🤔
