IDK if all of this necessarily applies to the Japanese KA24DE, but on the Mexican version (Frontier and Xterra) the harmonic balancer nut can be removed with a breaker bar and the power steering belt looped over the AC compressor and the extra length wound over itself on the crank pulley. The belt's tension will keep the crank from moving. As for removing the harmonic balancer, I opted for the duck foot style of tool (also used to remove steering wheels) instead of the claw style tool used in the video. I just had to buy a couple of M6x1.0x75mm bolts and two sets of washers separately from Ace Hardware to thread into it to make it work, but afterwards the harmonic balancer popped right off the crank without much effort. The 24mm intake and exhaust cam bolts I used a cordless 1/2" impact for, and the 19mm chain center sprocket as well. The impact made quick work of it and also didn't spin, so it kept time while eliminating much of the struggle of two-wrenching it. The head bolts I used my 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and 3" extension to utilize my 3/8" 10mm hex bit; I loosened them in 3 stages while following the torque pattern in reverse. I figured it would place less stress on the head instead of using the impact for that too. The casting of the 3/8" bit should be narrow enough to clear the wells to reach the bolt head, btw. The 1/2" bit on the other hand will likely be too thick to reach the bolt head at the bottom of the well. Hopefully these tips help anyone seeking to rebuild one of these engines. I learned to rebuild the KA in my 240SX when I was 16, so doing it again for my Xterra is just bringing back the familiarity of problems I've encountered before with the better tools I have now to make the job easier.
One question, why would you still use that stock fuel pump harness? Or just cuz it’s a short/small portion on that stock gauge harness safe to run those extra amps?
Rebuild, this guy spent about 3k building the motor and if you put it together clean with the same parts you should be able to push 700-950hp as long as you can keep the head down, a lot of people drill and tap the head studs for 12mm studs
uhm... why you didnt replace worn rattle, for illustration "Turbo Wastegate Rattle Flapper Repair Kit 03C145702L For VW Golf Jetta Passat" ... ? instead of change of replaceable part you made irreversible intervention into turbo chassis ... i like your solution because is a cheapest but how long it last? thx
The very first step for me is a breaker bar on the harmonic balancer nut. I then turn the engine over with no coil wire attached. Then I do whatever else I want. Like timing chain or remove the engine or whatever
Nice job dude! I particularly appreciate that you talk like a respectable human being. I bought my s13 from Vancouver and am just about to do the rear subframe bushings on my s14.
