Her daddy owns the business and she takes instructions from her brother on how to do the work. They just don’t let him in the video because it would make it less interesting lol
Great job Lexi! Very articulate and nice work - you’re helping myself and my 2 techs get a refresher on installing a 24kw generac right now - appreciate all the major points - thx!
@@walterrose854 ... good question, and we'll presume it's right at the meter where it was originally. BTW, this TS is rated to be used outside if needed.
An as always what an awesome job, an also reminding myself that stepping back and drawing out an having a plan can save time by not being short on service cable. Appreciate it!
Nice job! Few helpful hints… I would have mounted plywood behind the ats and instead of ser for the load side run 2” pvc inbetween the panel and ats and use 4/0 xhhw and a #4 ground. So good to see young folks in our trade out there killing it. Keep up the great work.
This is an excellent display on how to correctly install a generator service. A lot of electrical personell do not know about seperating the neutrals and grounds because of the 1st point of disconnect being changed. You are one heck of an electrician there Lexi!.......Maybe I can be on the next 360 Electric podcast if he will send me an invite. I want to personally tell you how well rounded you are with your electrical knowledge.
Thank you 😊, for future reference.. As the transfer switch becomes the NEW MAIN DISCONNECT ( the grd rods and water meter ground should be bonded to the neutral bus at that location. Fantastic PRIDE in your work.
@@lextheelectrician I'm a jman electrician and I'm quite experienced myself, but I've learned a few things from some of your videos, and you've done lots of cool projects. Its great to see more women in the trades and hopefully you will bring more awareness to women worldwide that this is a career that has merit. Also you can ignore some negative comments you've received from men regarding your work, sometimes they're just jealous, but you know the old saying, "If they hit low, you hit high"
At 6:30, in another life as tower dog, use a carabiner on a small diameter rope, tie cow hitch knot around tool handles, clip on, hang tools from waist, pants, belt, ceiling, wall, wherever. I do it too, stand on top of short step stool... I use the Rubbermaid brand, they're light weight, collapse instantly for moving and storage, and ofcourse 'hang' in the back of the van from a carabiner! Great info on the neutral and ground bonding 'subpanel' !!
Great job,looks good,I like to see other sparky’s work,I only did my required residential to get my JW license,the contractor I worked for mostly did heavy industrial plants,pump stations ect,all the generators I installed have been in 4” Rob Roy,same concept just larger scale
Nice work. If I may, the only thing I may have done differently is the cable coming from your 8×8 to your transfer switch is over top that small white box, (not sure what it is) Whoever might need to service that won't appreciate it. Other than that, nice job.
This was very informative. I’ve never done a residential gen install and I only do three phase, full backup. I was curious about what gets eliminated (in terms of indicators, ground fault detection etc) for res. I have to investigate these load shed modules! In my experience the transfer switch is always what fails. Customers often run their gens weekly and i encourage them to test under load. Nice work btw, retro is always a bear.
I did gen work for almost 25 years, both residential and commercial, up to 800 Kw. While options vary, the main difference with these Generac transfer switches is they are controlled by the generator and there is no logic board built into the switch itself. There is also no option to exercise under load or change the duration of exercise. You do get to select the day of the week, time of day, and weekly, bi-weekly, monthly. These switches do come with a load sensing module that works for pilot duty and can be directly wired to the AC via the 24 volt control. In this case she elected to install a drop-out relay, which can also be used for an electric water heater. The sensing module can control up to four major appliances, giving a delayed start and sequential restart. It monitors generator frequency and sheds load if unable to maintain. It waits 5 minutes and tries again. After 3 tries it waits 20 minutes. The generator itself monitors utility power. It will start the unit for no power (one or both legs) and brown-out. (20% reduction) It is not smart enough to sense a lost neutral situation. Retransfer and shut-down sequence will happen after utility reaches 90% of rated voltage.
My next door neighbor had exactly the same generator installed last week with similar transfer switch and other components. It's a modern home with everything easily accessible outside and inside so I have no idea why it took 4 guys 3 days to complete the job. And I'm pretty sure that you did a better job.
Thanks, I enjoyed this video. It is the first one of yours I watched. Now subscribed... I would like better lighting for your indoor work so I can better observe your work. Also, did you use a torque measuring Allen wrench to go over all your connection after the conductors took a set? From what I observed it looked like your were using a folding Allen wrench set for the initial tightening.
I would have ran a new SEU cable from meter to ATS. You also brought your #2 SER and 14/3 rx’s in the same connector when entering the ATS. They should have separate connectors
So, if the transfer switch will be the main disconnect, presumably an acceptable isolation, would you need a breaker isolation too? If so, what about maintenance on the box? How would you isolate both sources foe electrical work? Just disconnect the gennie somehow or does the transfer switch have a manual transfer as well?
You'll love to work when you have complete power tools and materials, much more when you have service car for easy travel site to site. Lexi is thankful because lots of branded power tools being donated to her as a way of endorsement and advertising purposes. I knew all American made tools, testers and powertools are good and tough 👍👍👍
I think the install is legit, my only preference would be to just get rid of the existing SEU and come out of meter socket with a brand new piece. It would look a little less busy and probably cheaper in materials not buying Polaris connectors. But that’s just my opinion.
Does a load shed module accomplish the same thing as having a soft start switch at the AC compressor instead? I'm looking at installing a similar Generac setup with that ATS, and I want to make certain I'm understanding how to best manage that run up current from the AC units (I have two..one on each floor). Also, if have 2ea, 200 amps panels. Do I need 2 ea, 200 amp ATS's?? Thank you for your time.,
I don't remember where I used to watch you. Think it was TikTok. I just found you on here. You are amazing. Hey how did that Milwaukee heated jacket work out?
you are awesome! i have a small service panel and would like to upgrade to a 200 amp service with new panel and breakers, about how much would a job like this cost me ?
That load shed box, does that somehow reduce/eliminate the LRA for the AC? If so, another idea is to install a soft start on the AC itself… or any load that has a high LRA, like a well pump etc….
They’re the same. Load shed modules are like wiring manual transfer switches with with wire nuts. But load shed, you can pick and choose what appliances you want to start first and want to last With soft starts, you’re limited on what appliances you can wire to. Refrigerators and hvac are almost the same appliances but it doesn’t make sense putting a s.s on a fridge. It’s easier to put it on the unit itself where you could put a “load shed” on a fridge circuit instead. I’m guessing a rule of thumb is automatic = load shed, manual interlock = soft start
So how does a dual transfer switch work? I have 2 (200amp) service panels. I assume I’d need 2 transfer switches but in my head I’m not sure how that would be wired up.
remember if you're having your generac installed by a stranger. if it's all rusty when it's brand-new he's guaranteed to get maintenance and repair work out of the deal just a few years down the road. make sure you thoroughly inspect it! look at it carefully yourself it should be perfect absolutely no rust no corrosion on the aluminum and fasteners
So I do residential elevators. The electrician hooks up the transfers. Thanks for all your details. I have worked around transfer switches a lot after they are installed. You have taken the mystery out of it. Conceptually easy. But as many things, devil is in the details. Thanks for your details Lexi ‼️🫶🫡🙏
In my area exposed ser cable will fail inspection because the code states it cannot be exposed in an area where it can be subjected to physical damage. We’re required to sleeve it anywhere it’s exposed below 8’ in Florida.. inspections must be a breeze in your area.
I've been an industrial electrician in England for 50 years and you would not get way with that install in England especially regarding how it looks ,did you remove the white box that you crossed over with your load cable into your junction box
Thanks for the quality of the content you're sharing. One simple and down-to-earth (no joke intended) question: how do you deal with the hair entanglement risk when using rotating power tools? It just takes one bad move for things to get south...
Guessing this is not considered a basement. This would not pass inspection due to using romex and not puting all those conductors in conduit. Is the main house rite above that panel?
You do very meet work. I try but mine is not that great. Those cables are hard to deal with for on person, with 2 is alot easier. Plz if you can wouldcliketosee more on the ground separation. And explain why. Thank you so much. I love general stuff too it is so great. Nice to work with too.
Generac require six low-voltage control wires to operate their systems. SURE: Two (2) number 14/2 W/g Romex has six wires; two of the six are bare. Bare wire is not allowed for conducting electricity load. Bare wire is for bonding only.
Just curious why you chose to put a jbox in for the SEU service drop from the meter to the transfer switch instead of just putting in a whole new drop?
