Generac Generator Installation Part 1 | Clark, NJ 

Can i pull a permit even though im not an electrician or plumber? Im a licensed hvac tech, i do gas lines for furnace and electrical jobs on outdoor condenser.. i want to install my own generator.

Where I live a Homeowner can pull a permit and do work to their own property. You will have to ask in your town/county. My FIL had a plumber come run a gas line last week for a stove and he commented on my install... He said its the best he's seen, even better than the Gen Dealers. Your elec co. should have a service diagram showing what they want/require. Get that so they are satisfied, as they are the last to check your work before connecting. Be aware of the bonding jumper inside the transfer switch, as that is now the First Panel! You will un-bond the original service panel to separate your Neutrals and Ground and possibly have to move wires to each bar for correct connections. Your original panel may have just a screw to remove to separate or a Jumper. If you don't have separate n/g bus bars, you will have to add one. Just fully understand the bonding at the first panel and the separation of all neutral and grounds downstream of that!!!! @@camilo8cheryl

Thank you.

Thanks for being here. Glad you you liked the video!

Hi,many of your low voltage works whit low capacity in the attic's wires everywhere in front of Furnance,lights,ladders,etc.

Que calibre de cobre debo usar desde el generador hasta el Transfer para 200 amperes? A 30 ‘ de distancia

Thanks Rob - I really appreciate the feedback.

Thank you brother!

Part two coming up. I’m finishing and starting up the generator this Tuesday!

The generator comes as a package with the transfer switch. So it with the labor and all the other materials included anywhere from $12,000.00-$17,000.00. Permits are normally a line item that are not included because each town has different rates for permits.

Those are the grounding electrode conductors and they’re relocated to the ATS because it becomes the main disconnect. All bonding is done in the main disconnect.

It sure would!

Awesome! Thanks for replying.

It’s called duct seal.

The "feeder" wires are called Service Entrance Conductors. If you're an electrician this is important to know the difference because SERVICE conductors are much different than FEEDER conductors. The tool is made by Klein Tools and and can be found on Home Depot.com or on the HD app.

@@electricalron Thank you for the lesson on proper names of the wires. One can't get sloppy with electricity.

That's a bigger concern for aluminum conductors. He's using copper.

4/0 Aluminum or 2/0 Copper would suffice for 200 amps at a single-family dwelling.

Nope.

Yes, the water pipe and ground bars are called grounding electrode conductors. Both of them get relocated to the automatic transfer switch since it becomes the new main disconnect. The #4 copper from the transfer switch to the distribution panel is known as the equipment grounding conductor and is sized for 200 amps.

You can get an irreversible crimp and extend the GEC @@electricalron

Thank you. That's very nice of you to say. Experience is everything.

Generac cart

That’s a code in the NEC but no one is enforcing it here.

@@electricalron wow. How do you know you have adequate pressure on terminations?

@@mcarroll598 chances are good that the impact wrench is going to put a helluva lot more torque on the bolt than what you can do with your arm + a wrench.

The torque specs are in the install manual, and there is a sticker in the vicinity of the lugs inside the transfer switch. I NEVER do an install without torqueing the lugs.

The generator typically comes with its own output circuit breaker, which would serve as the disconnect you refer to, and protects the feed to the ATS.

Lots of people say that..But I pass all day long without them

Yes. This ATS is service-rated.

Wtf is a “half in Rome” connector?

@@jak50cent on

Ok

Because it's copper.

Water main GEC, ground rods GEC, and the EGC to the distribution panel.

Looks like a Generac RTSY200A3, but this is a 200 amp automatic transfer switch (ATS). I'm not sure you need a 200 amp xfer switch for 6.5kw. You could probably get by with a 100 amp.

@@im2yys4u81 ... he would need a switch rated for whatever the grid feed is. IOW, 200 amp service will require a 200 amp TS. The odd thing about the Generac switch is there's no built-in logic. There's a 12 volt coil / relay that needs external signaling to provide transfer to standby power. In his case it looks as if solar is the primary so might be reversed from normal. An Asco switch (higher cost) has logic built in so will follow the power. Not sure what he would use to signal transfer in either case.

Nope.

A type 1 SURGE PROTECTIVE DEVICE would be connected to the line side of the service. I imagine N1 & N2 would be suffice but I’d have to check if those terminals are rated for more than one conductor. I normally install type 2 SPD’s and they are placed in the main distribution panel.

Meter is hot.

@@electricalron i thought it looked like you were being extra careful in there

@@iqvoice That's idea

This ATS does the whole house

@@electricalron mine does too but mine didn’t come with the 150amp breaker sow to be installed the meter box has to have the breaker

No, because the feeder to the panel isn’t rated for 200 amps. The ATS becomes the main breaker and protects the conductors to the panel. Time to update the panel to 200 amps.

Cable companies are not allowed to touch any other companies equipment outside of disconnecting it.

@@NickGonsalves omg that's crazy they literally came into my house and I was watching them (I'm an electrician by trade) so any wiring interests me. but when I seen that I was like soo you gunna pull all that out..(i Knew the answer) He said no they tell us to cut any old cable wire out. But it's funny b/c I have 2 dishes in my yard and the wires were hooked up to them and they cut them at the enterance to the house and 5 or 6 places in the house. We do have a terrible cable company here, their internet is great super fast, but if you call down there they are terrible in the office. My daughter house burnt down a few years ago along with the whole block. She eventually bought a house on the same block but across the street. They told my daughter they wouldn't give her new service until she returned the old box. That box was melted in the fire. She had to pay a $250 deposit on a new box to get service b/c they have a monopoly here in this part of the state.

Cable tv companies are the worst. Unfortunately a lot of those workers have little to no training. Around here the cable companies do not allow them to snake cables inside the wall so they are forced to run everything on the surface which as you know looks very sloppy.

@@electricalron Yes you are right I've talked to a few of the better 1's I've had through the years. They get no training at all.

Is there anyway I can PM with an electrical question? it's just electrical theory, not how to install something, I can't remember the correct terminology, from 32 years ago. And I know I'm right, on a question, I think I just worded, the answer incorrectly. I also, do private writing, like trying to write books and stuff and it troubles me when I can't word something correctly. And Don't worry, it's also not a how to book on electrical work, believe me, I would cite your contribution, there as you have been so courteous and professional here. If not, no worries, my friend, either way, you have a good day and thanks, always for your great videos.

No need

Because it needed to be extended.

The control wiring is T1, N1, N2, 194, 23, and 0. They connect from the transfer switch to the generator.

It’s an NEC requirement for conductors larger than #4 AWG. Going back to install them after a failed inspection means time a lost revenue/ profit.

@@electricalron Thanks for your response been retired a few years. I think that's your local inspectors being Richard's. I challenged that bull a few years ago and all the inspector could come up with at that time was must be used on threaded pipe when conductors are #4 or larger. I think that is still be debated in some places.

@@user-sq5zg3ys5k I consider bushings that prevent abrasion of the conductors is super important and inspectors should point out the violation if applicable.

@@ZachTate installing the transfer switch only requires rewiring the distribution panel and reconfiguring the meter wiring. It’s a lot of work. $3500 ballpark.

That cable is everything, including rated for direct burial.

This was like $12k I think.

@@electricalron nice , did this include the cost of the generator?

also I was wondering with the generator wire you used how come it was a #2 AL instead of a 4/0AL if it was sized for 200 amp service?

@@BrianWelch22 It is sized for the capacity of the generator, which is only good for about ~75 amps. There is a breaker in the generator set to protect the wire. Most houses with 200 amp service do not draw anywhere near 200 amps. If there is a high amp load, it would need a load shed device to turn it off when operating on the generator.

A piece of equipment rated to be used as service equipment.

Yes, and has that capability of "bonding" the neutral to ground (which is that green jumper wire between the ground bus at top and the neutral bus partway down).

No. The lug on the generator is for use ONLY when the generator is being used as a separately derived system.

@@electricalron thanks, that’s what I thought. Have a happy Easter!