My system has been 24 volt from the beginning. I started out with a 3000 watt inverter, then bought a 5000 watt low frequency one. My lead acid batteries are finally about dead so I am now waiting for the last 2 12 volt 100 AH batteries to make the 4 I need till I can get more.
I think one of the few things that no one seems to show and you have which is absolutely fantastic, is a shutdown step photo with pictures, diagrams ,arrows etc. As hobbyist or preppers or DIYs or whatever we all are you know your system and I know mine chances are no one else in the family does though. So your diagram is absolutely perfect❤❤❤
Yes...First I've seen and I've watched...mmm ....1000 video roughly on the subject...A Safety step I'm going to Implement and share with Other's 🎉❤🤔🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯🇺🇸🪖
I live the sungold power inverter. I have a 4000 watt split phase 24 volt and it runs my entire off grid 30 foot camper including a 9000 btu minisplit. I built a 30 kw battery from 280 ah grade a eve cells. I also have another battery that's about 7kw of leaf modules but it's kinda for back up if I was to ever need it. I also use several charge controllers but my 150-70 victron is the newest addition and victron is king for sure. I'm using 1850 watts of sharp solar panels at the moment but hopefully in the next week or two I can get another 8 or 10 panels. This solar stuff is addictive lol. I've spent about 30 grand so far on my off grid stuff but as long as the wife is cool with it I don't see stopping any time soon. So much enjoyment in building this stuff and q great way to spend time in a positive direction
Sounds like you have a nice setup. I agree that this solar stuff is addictive. I've also spent a lot. My wife just asked me the other day "How much money have you spent on this stuff?". I found a way to not really answer and change the subject. haha
I just recently started my research on battery back up for power outages. I'm a HVAC tech and DIY person in Hawaii. really enjoyed your video and step by step instructions thanks you for sharing.
I am still sticking with the 24v builds also; so much, that I bought a 24v grow watt all in one when they were on sale (still in the box). Battery storage/ capacity is the big issue with power walls and for the price of those beautiful rack mount systems, you can DIY for almost half the price. Yes sir, Victron is great, Sol-Ark is great but I leaned towards Epever which gets the job done without all the 💸 for my first builds. You sound well rounded, you have got to buy raw cells and pack build them out; you got the hard part down packed, understanding fuse sizes, wire gauge and wire length. Take the leap of faith 👣 Cheers! and keep preparing!
@@proficientprepper It can have it's draw backs. It takes me almost 30 minutes to get to town, and it is a very small town. No major supermarkets, just a DG and a good size local market. At least there are no fast food places to tempt me. hahaha
Thanks for sharing your trials as you go! It really helps when we can see different setups - especially for those of us who don't have 30 grand to throw at a projext!
Thank you for this video. Your setup allowed me to see what I would be capable of running. That was a real stress test . I have three refrigerator/freezers and 2 freezers which would not cycle on at the same time and that sungold would be more than adequate to temporarily run my house
I love the way your presentation is applied. Parts described clearly one by one Even the small remark about safety of 30vdc. As well mentioning the install portion of the correct measurements prior to install . Most videos are quick install and no technical information or manual pics displayed for confirmation of correct install and error messages displayed. I will follow your site. Thank you
I had actually thought of that. I was trying to get everything in position, then move over to hardiebacker, but I forgot to move it over to hardiebacker. I believe I could pull the whole thing off the wall and put hardiebacker behind the plywood. That should offer some additional protection, but the plywood is still combustible.
Great video. I just recently ordered a Sungold system. With 6k split 110v/220v inverter. 2 x 48v server rack batteries, solar charge converter as well as 4 x 450w solar panels. All Sungold Power components. Can't wait for my system to arrive. I'm installing in a mobile showroom for automotive equipment.
I used an Aims Power inverter charger, similar inside to the Sungoldpower but mine is 24 volts, 2000 watts. I used twenty big marine batteries but four of them have went bad so Im changing them out to 31 series deep cycle batteries, as they quit. The charger in mine is 30 amps. The low frequency pure sine inverter charger weighs 46 pounds. I've used the charger twice in three years. I don't have a grid hookup. I have a Winco Lil Dog generator. My battery bank is 1000 amp hours. I have the one dip switch set on the lower voltage, so the batteries would have to get down to 21 volts to cause the yellow light to come on. I think I have enough batteries now to change it to the higher setting, which would be any time it gets below 24 volts, the charger will want to come on. I used number 2 welding leads on all connections. I have two pairs of them connected to the inverter charger. I added a 600 watt wind generator in March. It was supposed to be 24 volts but they sent me a 12 volts one. I hooked it up to half of the batteries and it has saved me from having to use the gas ⛽ generator this year. Full charge is 25.7 v and they usually are on about 25.2 in the morning right before they start charging again. I have sixteen 100 watts panels hooked up in eight pairs. The Epever 4215 BN charge controller is 2% more efficient at 33 volts than it is at 63 volts. Using higher voltage will just result in a hotter controller. So I have to have the panels close to the controller or lose wattage. The max on the controller is 1040 w. , I have had 1020 w. coming in from the panels in July or August. I used #4 welding leads from it to the batteries. I've gotten by with the cheapest batteries for four years. Im thinking about upgrading to the other kind, but I'll have to save up for awhile. I have tested the overload on my inverter charger, in November 2021, I tried running a welder that took 2400 watts. I got my wood stove built but five of the twelve MOSFETs blew the tops off. Jay at Aims Power said I overloaded it. So I changed the control board, power board, and temp sensor. He said I needed a 4000 watts one to run a welder⚡🤔, but I bought the Winco generator for that. I was going to get a 3000 watts inverter charger to start out with but they were sold out, and I didn't have the money for a 4000 watts one. So I got the 2000 watts one. It's better to just not overload it. The little red light comes on around 2140 watts. Supposedly, it has a 6000 watts surge and all that, but don't believe it. Maybe for a second. I have the same two GFCI outlets and breakers like yours. The battery selector and on/off switch is in the same spot. I know there's a couple of sizes that if you take the outside covers off, you can't tell the Aims Power from the Sungoldpower. It has the same control boards. I didn't know that until last year. They don't advertise it. I like how you have yours . Mine is a little more hillbilly. Im living in my uncle's barn until I can find some land close by that I could afford. It's too far from the power pole to run anything but a light bulb 💡. So I don't have everything like it could be. It's all temporary for now. I'm going to keep mine 24 volts. I think the 48 volts stuff is nice but probably too pricey for me. I would like to get three of the 24 volts, 100 amps batteries to run the Aims Power inverter charger, and then I have another inverter, an Ampeak, which is 2000 watts, that I could run off of the best 16 or so of the lead acid batteries in parallel. It can run a grinder or a saw, or something like that. I'll keep the pure sine one for the freezer, TV, and like that. That way everything doesn't have to run off of one inverter. I'll have to get another charge controller. I guess that's my next upgrade project. That will give me an excuse to build a 24 volts wind generator to charge the new batteries when the sun 🌞 isn't out. I have to go get a new battery this morning. They're $130 apiece. It's 2 a.m. and the MT 50 meter says 25.0 the wind generator meter says 25..08. The voltage will improve after I put the new battery in. Well this will be my fifth winter off of the grid power. I keep improving it as I go. One day, I will have my stuff looking more like yours. The main thing is, that it works. I always wanted a battery room, anyway. And with twenty three batteries, it will look impressive 😁👍. I might not have the biggest, or the best, but I'll at least make a showing.
Wow! Thanks for all that information. Very interesting to hear your off grid story. Batteries are definitely the most expensive part of my build. When I got into this off grid stuff, Lithium Iron Phosphate batteries seemed to already be the norm. So I don't have any lead acid battery experience. I'm actually still paying for these batteries. I think I have two more payments left. I'm liking my 24 volt system with little to no reason to move to a 48 volt system. I'm sure I will find a reason to do that at some point. LOL. But not right now. I did not realize until recently from another viewer that SunGold Power is made by a another company. I guess Aims and SunGold are made by the same company. I've read quite a bit about wind generators. I found that most people don't get enough wind for it to work properly. Sounds like it may work for you. I don't live in an area that is very windy except during storms. Are you totally off grid? I doubt I will ever get to that point. I would most likely have to move to where I could put up more solar panels to cover the cloudy days. Right now, we are in day 3 of completely miserable cloudy days. I've switched over to grid for a few things and my battery is at 30% SOC. Hoping for Sun! Thanks for commenting!
I use 2/0 wire. It's kinda oversized but it helps with surge loads. It's not really necessary but it's alot easier on the inverter if you over size the wires. Great system by the way. Thanks for showing your stuff.
Sounds like a safe approach with 2/0. I was really not wanting to move up to 2/0 if I can help it. I'm thinking will be fine with 1/0. Another viewer mentioned something about the slight overheating I experienced could be the battery switch. I am going to check on that also.
@@proficientprepper yes for sure check that switch out. Most the switches I've bought are kinda way over rated. I use 2 2/0 positive and 2 2/0 negative wires. I have 2 600 amp switches side by side going to my battery. It's kinda overkill but after I melted a switch supposed to be rated at 300 amps it made me paranoid. I was pulling 120 amps and nearly burnt my place to the ground and after that I decided to oversize the crap out of all my wires a d switches. I have o er 30 kw of battery now and that amount of energy gets dangerous fast when things go wrong. I love the solar stuff tho and wouldn't go back to the grid ever lol. I'm sure I'll never see an actual savings and my system will never pay for itself but the happiness that I get from it was worth every dime. Some people don't understand why we spend so much on this equipment but the knowing I'll have electricity for the next 10 or 20 years no matter what.. yeah that's where the real value is for sure.
Oh yes oversized is no problem the best way to go it makes everything more safe and reliabl Am hoping one day I will get one of those inverters have my eyes on them but I will be wanting a single phase 240 volt that’s the voltage in my country
@@errolcain4071 this type of inverter is really amazing. The best upgrade I've don't to my system was the lifepo4 battery bank. I now have 30 kw of lifepo4 and 14 kw of nmc chemistry. It's also kinda oversized. My biggest problem is finding enough time to install all this stuff correctly. I'm only home 2 or 3 days a month because I work as a truck driver so I never have time to do the work it seems
Yay! This is much better... This size of system works. 4,000 watts is the most you would want to connect at 24 volts. The current flowing is 199 amps. The batteries deliver at least 200 amps continuous. Hopefully.
Awesome inverter but this inverter is actually not made by Sungoldpower. Sungoldpower does not manufacture any of its inverter offerings. Sungoldpower is just a system reseller that rebrands the products that they offer. Sungoldpower inverters are manufactured by Sigineer Power. Sigineer Power manufacturers inverters for several renewable energy companies including Aims and Sungoldpower.
@@proficientprepper Good morning, my first system I finished it last week is a 12V and it's for learning purposes. Will use it to learn about what can I put to use, discharge and recharge (the math aspect) and to have a small emergency back up power. In the not sondistant future I will assemble a 24V system to provide more capability. I really like your system, it looks like the right size to have. Tood screen shots for reference. Thank you for responding, good day.
As far as short wire lengths go, I found it’s always better to go with the larger gauge, which alleviates the heat problem. This should solve the problem on the cut off switch to the battery. Also, the fuse should be about 7 inches from the positive battery connection.
My wire from bat to shut off switch gets hot at switch going into switch while testing my 12v system running oil filled heater on low,700 watts.Switching to 24v setup.Think I’ll get the 3k watt inverter to run rv ac 13,500 btu ac.Shut ac off to run microwave ect. Great vid !
Well done! I would look into EG4 server rack mount batteries (5k watts in either 12/24/48v configurations) for $1,000-$1200 each and then an EG4 or Rich Solar inverter/charger for $5-600 w/ canbus. Less wiring too!
great videos. i've watched many battery system videos and yours was the first i heard make the point about 48v being potentially deadly. great point, i might stick with 24v, thx
Here's a tip: Do not install your inverter vertically. My older Spartan inverter I had mounted vertically because I saw everyone doing this on RU-vid. It was a 2200W inverter. My inverter stopped working. I opened it up and found my fuses, falling toward gravity, and were melted together. Likely the fuse holders had too much resistance which caused them to overheat, and melt the solder. My new inverter EGSCATEE actually had instructions not to mount vertical, but I had to read every line of the manual. Also, I doubled my wattage from 2200W to 4000W in hopes my inverter will last for more than 3 years!
I routinely used by miter saw and compressor with this setup. However, it recently got struck by lightning and I'm trying to fix it. I did a video on that and I will be doing another follow up video on that also.
Outstanding video! Well done! Subscribed, bell rung, commented, upvoted, liked, shared .... may the algorithm gods smile favorably upon your channel friend.
I also very much appreciate the time and effort you put into making this video. It is going to be very helpful in setting up a similar 24v system with the 4000 Sungold inverter. A few questions. If you only had ten 100 watt panels wired in pairs (series) and run through a combiner box would it be sufficient to power this inverter (basically 1KW). I'm in northern Alabama and we do get a lot of solar here. Secondly, are the cables you ran from the charge controllers to the breakers and then to the bus bar 6 gauge? They appear smaller that the 1-0 cables that are easy to see. Again thank you very much for an excellent presentation, know you put a lot of thought and labor into it.
Thanks, and I'm glad you are getting something out of the video. Regarding the first question of using 1KW of solar panels, that would mostly depend on your battery (or battery bank). My thought was that I was trying to make sure I had enough solar panels to charge my battery bank in a day and that my battery bank was sufficient (and safe) to power my inverter. So I was trying to get enough solar panels to be able to charge up my batteries in one day of full sun (maybe from 20% SOC to 100% full in a day). Your situation may be different. I have 1600 watts of solar panels now and don't quite have enough solar to do that currently in the winter. Regarding your 2nd question, the cables running from the charge controllers are 8 AWG. The BougeRv charge controller is 40A and the Victron is 30A. I bought that wire from Windy Nation. The Windy Nation website says their 8AWG wire will handle up to 55A. So that should be safe. Be sure to check with the battery manufacturer on what amp rating it has. You want the wire to be able to handle more than the max amperage that will be on the wire.
I really want to try the sungoldpower 48v 6000 watt split phase inverter for our mobile charging system. Another Powerqueen fan. We have two 12v 200ah that have been running a 9k btu minisplit for almost two years. We have another four running an EV charging system for our Ford F150 Lightning. We’ll be adding another 10kw to that system in a few weeks. I’m just not sold on the server rack batteries. I tried to add a battery balancer to the two in our shed, but found that after a year and a half, the batteries were perfectly balanced all on their own, and the balancer, actually ended up being unnecessary.
Nice! Sounds like you are moving towards power self sufficiency. One day I will move to a 48v system I believe. But I'm perfectly happy with what I have now. I would like to have more battery storage though to cover those stretches of cloudy days. I don't really have enough panels to cover it though. I do like Power Queen and I've not had any problems at all. There are several batteries now of good quality that I would use.
Again, this video is very instructive. Two things, 1. The wire coming off the bus bars is 1 ought not 1 AWG? and 2. Do you think a battery balancer would be a good addition to your battery bank? Really appreciate your help!
I need to do a little research on battery balancers. I believe what I have done with the battery bus bars is about as optimal as you can get without a balancer. I'm not sure yet if a balancer would help.
I have the 24v lfp 3000watts version, set up very similarly and using the same way . I did set my dip sw1 to 1 and tripped into charger mode at 22.7v . I wish I could set it to trip at 24v. Overall very happy with mine
I have only had mine trip into charger mode once when I was very busy at work and not paying attention. One thing I wish this Inverter/Charger had is a button to just turn on the charger. Then when we have gloomy days and the batteries are getting low SOC, I could just charge it some to bump up the SOC to maybe 50% knowing its going to be sunny the next day. Or maybe a configurable setting for when the charger mode does get tripped I can configure it to only charge to say 60% (configurable) so it does not always charge all the way to 100%. Thanks for commenting.
I started with a 12-volt system. But I have several electric vehicles. Two of which are dirt bikes. One uses a 48 volt 3 kwh battery the other uses a 3 KWH 52 volt battery. It works out pretty well as the motorcycles are usually around 80% charged. I also have stationary lithium battery packs for storage. And I can use my 12 volt system to charge the higher voltage powered by my Chevy bolt car battery. Which is 66 kilowatt hours. It's kind of a cluster but I don't have any solar
@@proficientprepper at this time I'm just using my car connecting to the 12-volt auxiliary battery to my lithium-ion phosphate battery pack which is connected to a 12 volt inverter, which I used to charge the 48 volt system. The car has a dc-to-dc converter and that keeps the 12-volt system charged from the main battery pack in the car.
I have a 30A RV Class A diesel pusher with two ACs. I've yet to find a high freq inverter that can handle the load when one AC is running and the 2nd kicks on. I just ordered this unit and hoping the low freq can take that 2nd start up. I'll keep you posted on my results. What I've noticed with the high freq inverters is that can output their power rating, but that can't handle spikes in power demand.
@@proficientprepper I was able to test it today and worked like a champ! Ramped up to 70% output and held for several minutes. Now I'm going to start planning on getting everything setup and in place for permanent setup.
Did you find any inverters that are 24v & 48v in your research? Why powerqueen over the EG4 24v rack batteries about the same price but the rack batteries have better build quality/BMS low temp cutoff user serviceable ect?
These questions are the same questions I was asking myself. I went back and forth between 24v and 48v first. I finally decided on 24v for no clear reason. I guess the final decision was made on a 24v being safer than 48v. I am still rather new to this and I thought I would get more experience on 24v, then later at some point move to a 48v system. Regarding the batteries, the final decision came down to between the EG4 Lifepower and Powerqueen. I went back and forth. I really wanted the EG4 battery rack with built-in bus bars. I know EG4 batteries are high quality. Also, I've only heard good things regarding Powerqueen. I already had two Powerqueen 12v batteries and they have been great. There is no easy and clear answer to why I chose what I did. I still wonder if I made the right decision or not. However, unless something new comes out that I really want, I would like to end up with a EG4 rack full of batteries on a 48v system.
@@proficientprepper that’s why I think I’m going with HSQ 60amp charge controller it’s 12v/24v/48v & the eg4 24v rack battery if I could find an inverter that does 24v & 48v I could easily upgrade to 48v in the future with minimal expense
I like these videos. I think you would Be happier 6 panels 320 W with a 250 70. victron charge controller. And keep it at 24 V. My setup like that works really well
$5k - wow. I was thinking it would be a lot more. Thank you for this video - I learned a lot and might follow some of your plans in my future.@@proficientprepper
Really detailed video. Two questions if you can cover in upcoming videos. Can 6 gauge silicone cables be used for batteries instead of the expensive 2 awg. Detailed video on how to create mc4 extension cables.
I do plan on doing a video on making MC4 extension cables. Regarding 6 gauge cables instead of 2 awg. The size of course depends on the amps you plan on pushing through. I don't really know much about silicone cables. The windy nation battery cables I am using has a very flexible EPDM rubber jacket.
48v DC is still considered pretty safe and low volts. I believe you need to get over 50 to not consider it low voltage. But seems like 24 v is a sweet spot.
Wow awesome video sir. I wish I had your knowledge. I'm in San Antonio, Texas. How can I find someone to build this in my home. What will be the cost? Thank you! Mario
Thanks. I'm not sure you can find someone to build something like this for you. Maybe you can. I'm just not sure. This solar generator I built is a DIY solution that a lot of people do as kind of a hobby after spending dozens or maybe even hundreds of hours learning how to do it. I started small and built my way up to this. This DIY 24v solar generator cost me roughly $5k not including the solar panels. The batteries (2) alone were $3k and is typically the most expensive part. The inverter/charger was about $900. You can buy power stations that have similar capabilities that come from companies such as Bluetti or Ecoflow. There are several others too. Those units will cost quite a bit more, but they is no assembly. They are portable and you just charge them and plug things into them. I just published a video on the Bluetti AC200Max that has roughly half the capability as the the 24v DIY system I built - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-763dQBXPkvs.html
Have you had any issues with neutral bonding, it appears the inverter has a bonded neutral which when wired to a sub panel that is earth bonded can cause a neutral bonding conflict. Much the same way a floating neutral generator is used for powering a transfer switch to a home panel, not a bonded neutral one.
I have not had any issues with neutral bonding. This inverter/charger comes with an automatic neutral to ground relay switch depending if it is on inverter mode or AC mode. That feature can be disabled by disconnecting a wire.
If I am reading the manual correctly, it does not say it requires a pure sign wave input. The input breaker seems to be a 40 amp breaker, so it seems to have adequate protection if you overload it. To be certain you should probably reach out to SunGold Power. I did reach out to them once with a detailed question and they did reply with an answer.
Great video! Getting ready to do my first solar system, and I'm torn between 12v & 24v. Want the system mostly to power the fridge & deep freeze when the grid power goes out during storms. Also a few lights + charge devices. So... 2000W (maybe 3000W) draw. Your thoughts on 12 vs 24 in that situation?
I would say if you want to go over a 2000 watt inverter, build a 24v system. When I looked at using 12v for a 4000w inverter, the wires I needed were huge, hard to work with and more expensive.
With that much power you shouldn't use a class t fuse?Shouldn't you connect the smartshunt cable directly to the minus therminal of the battery?I didn't know that it is also allowed on the busbar and so to the minus thermal
Class T fuses are better and go up to I believe 160 volts, but ANL fuses like in the video are good up to 32 volts which is within my system voltage. I plan to switch over to a class T fuse soon. Regarding the shunt placement, I have the batteries wired as the power queen manual says to by having them all connected to a bus bar and also connected to each other. In order to count both batteries amps going in and out, you have to connect the shunt between the negative bus bar and load. Now if I had wired these in parallel not using a bus bar and had the negative coming off one of the batteries, then yes, I could have connected the shunt directly off of the negative of the battery.
I like your set up very much I was thinking about a low frequency inverter similar to the one that you have in service.I decided to use a high frequency inverter instead until I determine what my needs are. That wire that is getting hot is not because of it's ability to carry the current it because of the switch not being able pass the rated amount of current. There's a RU-vid video channel Called WattHour " Review of Battery Master Disconnect switch for Car, Rv ,Boat or sound system" . He does a complete review and teardown of it.I think you will appreciate the review. I have already purchased one of those switches. I will return it to Amazon . I am not an expert just my opinion that the switch maybe the culprit based on research.
This entire 24v system cost me about $5k. The batteries alone were just under $3k and the inverter/charger I got on sale for $895. Batteries have come down quite a bit in price. So you could build this a little cheaper now.
One comment/question - you use 2awg from the batteries to their dedicated bus bars, but then 1/0 from the bus bars up to the rest of the system. Seems like the 2awg is the weak link there. Any reason you didn’t just use 1/0 for this part of the system?
Its been a while since I thought through this and did all the calculations. But each battery has a 200 amp BMS. According to the "Windy Nation" website, their 2 awg battery wire can handle up to 205 max amps. Since I have both batteries directly connected to the bus bars, I believe that should be large enough to handle the connections from each battery to the bus bars. Now if I had the batteries connected in parallel where I had the batteries connected together and the positive came off one battery and the negative came off the other, you are right. I would need a larger wire there. But because I have them individually connected to the bus bars, I believe 2 awg is good there. Regarding the use of 1/0 in the rest of the build - My inverter is 4000 watts and I don't plan to push it to that except for very short periods of time. 4000 watts would roughly be 156 amps on this 25.6 volt system. The Windy Nation 1/0 wire is good up to 285 amps. Even if I push it up to 7000 watts, which would be about 273 amps, the 1/0 wire should be good. Assuming the batteries are being drawn upon equally, pushing the inverter to 7000 watts would be 136 amps being pulled from each battery. My inverter is hard wired into my transfer switch which has a max of 7500 watts. When I ran the stress test nothing really got warm except around the battery switch. A viewer pointed me to a video where someone was testing that very same battery switch and it was getting warm just as I experienced. I need to switch that out for something better. Thanks for commenting. These things are very important so as not to start a fire. If I made a mistake above, please point it out. We can all learn from it. It amazes me how we do all this planning and calculations to get the right size wire and we come up with 1/0 for example. Then you open up the battery and find a 6 awg wire on the inside. I just don't understand that.
@@proficientprepper thanks for the detailed explanation. I’m not sure how Windy Nation rates their wires higher than standard - 1/0 wire is rated to 150A for power transmission and 245A for chassis wiring (this application). In any case I don’t think you made any errors, was just curious.
Choosing between an all in one system vs a the LF inverter/charger I got was a difficult decision. I went back and forth over a couple of weeks trying to decide. I'm still not sure I made the right decision. I will most likely end up with a 48v all in one system at some point in the future. I believe my decision in the end was based on a couple of factors. I had decided to get an all in one unit until I discovered in the specs that the MPPT input needed at least 120 volts to even function. I did not have that much solar. I found some other units that needed at least 90 volts. That was better, but I was worried that might be an issue also. Cost was another factor. This SungoldPower LF inverter/charger I ended up getting was on a special at the time and I picked it up for about $895. The "all in ones" I was looking at were just around $1300 at the time. I'm looking forward to upgrading my solar in the future which should open up more possibilities. Plus it gives me a reason to make another video! :)
@@proficientprepper tell me if I understand this correctly, if a 100w panel from harbour freight has a VOC of 21.6 v, one would only need 6 panels to hit the 120v threshold for the Growatt 5K?
Yes, that is my understanding. That would be 129.6v which is over 120, but not by much. I know what during the day as clouds pass over, the voltage does not change much but the amperage varies wildly depending on the clouds. So 6 of those panels might work if the voltage stays over 120. Depending on what you are doing, that does not seem like much solar power for such a big inverter.
I want to get a beefy inverter like that too but im wondering how you can get that much power from it when your not plugging in directly because extension cords would probably stuggle to safely take it.
I am typically only using the AC output terminals which can give full power. The GFCI outlets on the inverter can't handle the full power. I can't find their rating, but I would assume they are 15 or 20amp. The AC output terminals have 8AWG wires running up to the NEMA L14-30R outlet which has 4 prongs. The RV extension cord says it can handle up to 7500 watts. There are two live wires in the extension cord and the load is split between them. I believe those wires are 10awg which can handle 30amps each. In other tests I did, that wire did not get hot at all.
I purchased a 24v lipo4 battery 5.4k and was planning on putting together own system. After thinking I might would have beem better to just bought a solar generator. My question is do you know a solar generator that I can hook up my battery to with no issues
I've seen a few videos where people are hooking a battery to their solar generator (portable power station). It doesn't seem ideal in the videos I've seen. I actually did that in this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-763dQBXPkvs.html where I hooked batteries up to my Bluetti AC200Max using the Bluetti DC Charge enhancer. What I showed in that video is specific to the Bluetti AC200Max and a handful of other Bluettis that have a input port compatible with the DC Charge Enhancer. In that video, the battery just serves as extra reserve power you can use to charge the AC200Max. The AC200Max can't charge the external battery. You have to have a separate way to charge your battery. I'm not aware of a solar generator that seamlessly integrates with any external battery. Maybe someone else seeing this comment will reply with one that does.
Hmmm. That's an interesting question I've not thought of before. Since you used the term watts, I assume you mean two 2000w 24v inverters against a single 4000w 48v inverter. Also assuming the batteries would have the same watt hours, the battery cost would be about the same. I would say two 24v watt inverters would be much more expensive than any other savings you might get with a 48v system such as smaller wiring. If I misunderstood the question, let me know.
I don't believe a car inverter is any different than any other inverter. If you can find a pure sign wave inverter, then you should be good. But if you can only find modified sign wave inverters, then it depends on what you are needing to power in your home. There are some devices that may not function or could even be damaged by a modified sign wave inverter. Most things work fine with modified sign wave inverters. You will just need to determine what you need to power and if it will work with a modified sign wave inverter.
I'm new to this but have 30 100w panals a couple 200 ah batteries and a couple 100ah batteries trying to build system with a 3000-9000 watt inverter and weak charge controllers all at 12 v but can go to 24 except inverter is 12 but I bought a reducer and waiting on combiner boxes with fuses that combine 6 positive negative wires so I bought two but over my head a bit what do you recommend two systems or just one? I have bus bars and a big on /off switch I'm still connecting all not sure but I like what your doing and trying to copy and have the panals I'm just not a electrician I'm a carpenter by trade off grid .
I see your on grid I'm totally off-grid but have very similar set up despite that but I'm in process of building getting rid of old lead battery system so it's a bigger jump for me I could use an electrician that's for sure lol😅
I found an electrician that is just him and he has reasonable prices. I had quotes from electrician companies with several employees and they were much more.
i have the aims 4000 watt 12 volt inverter looks like the same build it has no lcd display and no house hold outlets but i looks the same dont need 4000 wats in my setup but for the quality of my unit its what i will use to buy a 3000 watt inverter on the cheep side it would cost me 400+ my inverter is heaver the 54 pounds
Yep, I've seen about 4 inverters that look very similar to this one but different brands. They only have slight differences. It would be interesting to open them up side by side to see if they are the same inside.
I don't really have a good answer yet for an extended power outage. I have not yet ran a test on the critical loads I plan to use it for. By just doing some basic calculations assuming good conditions, I believe I can get by for about two days running my critical loads without any solar charging. If I'm getting some good solar conditions, I should be able to run my critical loads indefinitely. However, in my area I don't always get good solar conditions so if I get multiple days of heavy clouds, it would run out in a little over two days. While the grid power is available as it is now, I run 4 circuits full time on this system (TV, all lights, smoke detectors, internet, router, few others). On good solar days, it will charge back to full from about 50% SOC every day.
I squared R losses are just to high @ 24V. 16S LFP "54V" is the minimum for continuous use for most loads. Actually 400V is the best option but the Mob "UL" needs to keep the sheeple in the fold. ie. dependent ON GRAFT. No North American equipment listed over 60V. Actually 9V has been fatal so take no chances. There may be no second chances. Wood backboard offerse no protection for the house in a chernobyl event.
Excellent organization, explanation and overview of the entire system and the components - one of the best I have seen on RU-vid. What is your "all-in" cost for this?
Thank you! It was around $4,500. The batteries alone were $1400 each (at the time) and I picked up the inverter/charger for about $900. But the price of batteries have been coming down over the last few months.