John explains why you should either let a professional do a rebuild or try it yourself, but under no circumstances let your friend that used to build race car engines do it!
Great information John, I hope to have my MGB engine together soon. I made my own main bearing cap removal tool by getting a 3 foot threaded rod, size 1/2 inch 20 threads per inch, from the hardware store. I got lucky and found a slide hammer weight at a tool store. I screwed on a 1/2-20 nut and washer on the end to act as a slide hammer weight stop. For smoother operation, I covered the threaded rod with shrink tubing where the slide hammer weight slid up and down. Works perfectly. Regards, Tom
I made a puller from 1" square tube with a hole drilled in the centre and cut long enough to straddle the block. Used a bolt threaded both ends and by screwing a nut down shortened the length of the bolt which lifted the bearing cap. Easy.
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Line boring? Oh jeeze... 🙄 Only if absolutely necessary, and most of the time it isn't. I, my local mechanic and others can attest to the pitfalls of doing this. For one, you're moving the timing gears closer together, which is no big deal in most cases. But you are also moving the flywheel spigot location up too. This will invariably result in rapid wear of the input shaft bearings on your manual gearbox, and the destruction of the front pump in an auto box. I've seen it most recently on a rebuilt Reliant Scimitar V6, kept on wearing out clutches for "some" reason, changed the box for a rebuilt LT77, the original one had a worn input shaft, the new one went the same way a few thousand miles later. I still have the box! 👌🏻 And all because the crankshaft had moved up by roughly 5 thou. Guy replaced the Essex V6 with a later quad cam cosworth V6 in the end. The idea of getting offset locating pins didn't appeal. When I was in college back in 2009, A, B, C and XPAG engines were the order of the day, seeing as they were so simple, a child could strip and rebuild them. These boat anchors had such forgiving tolerances, that one could use a piston ring and a feeler gauge to measure bore taper. Work it down the bore a set distance at a time, measure the gap, 3 thou additional gap at the ring = 1 thou additional bore diameter. To spend 5k on strip down machining for an engine I could pick up in fully working condition £500 ~ £900 is insane! These things are literally everywhere here in the UK, but I don't know how available they are in the US, so maybe the prices reflect the rarity. An informative video nonetheless.
