Good video mate, thank you. Good to know that cheaper primers shrink more, but for home diy guys like me, leaving it a week or two before basecoat is worth the wait.Keep these experiments coming, a great source of knowledge for newbies like me.
roberlo primer is terrible, adhesion issues, soon as i sanded off all the roberlo and switch to sherwin finish1 0 cracking 0 lift anywhere, roberlo was the only primer ive had issues with ive been painting a few years with alot of dif brands, i liked speedokote but you are right it dries quick in hotter climate
Valuable information, especially for the home gamer. Pros know of shrinkage....and Constanza, however in a normal production collision repair shop additional dry time is not in the game plan; therefore the metal work and filler work better be darn right before primer hits it. If a shop is on DRP (direct repair program) with insurance companies fast production is a must.
Man this is one of the best videos on primer products ever I really appreciate dude.hope one day someone could do the same test with different clear coats.i have used the sherwin 410,Eastwood epoxy primer,I have used the smart primer which I will not used that product anymore it shrink really bad to.. thanks for the video
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 I have used the FC 720 and Nason 498. I just wonder if the more expensive clear coat will flow out better with out adding reducer to it to get it to flow out and not lose gloss. Vs the sikken ,ppg or s/w cc250.I will be painting my dads c4 corvette I promise I would finish it before he passed away.which half of the clear coat has peeled off so I got lot to do still thanks for the advice and the review of products
Honestly you can probably make any clear coat look good with gun adjustments, distances, speed, etc. Each clear will shoot differently; some you have to hammer, some you need to back off and let it flow, some with reducer, some without. We've been using sikkens HS + and are very happy with it. It seems forgiving and flows out great - no reducer. We've shot all kinds of clear and each brand has very nice clears, we just happen to have sikkens base so that's what we're using.
@@lowcountrylowdown9000 thanks for letting me know about sikkens I’ve never used it before I want to use some good quality paint that will last a long time so I can pass this car down to my son one day take care and thanks again
i need a little help, im going to be sanding off the clear coat and painting my car a different color around October this year, Its a newer model car, im going to be using Eastwood's Epoxy primer and their high build 2k urethane primer then the base and clear coat, However I can not for the life of me find any information on adding and mixing flex additives for the plastic urethane bumper covers.
Might want to find a product line that offers a flex if you want to go that route. Mixing different paint manufacturers products is a recipe for disaster. I haven't used a lot of eastwood primers so I wouldn't feel comfortable telling you to use something with it.
I watched the video mostly because you had SpeedoKote in it. I have some and debating whether or not to use it on a nicer paint job I am doing. The SpeedoKote was not high build like the others I think. Same with the Finish1. Would that make a difference?
I wouldn't be scared to use speedokote or any of these for that matter (4 mils dry isn't exactly low build). Main thing is knowing that you have to give them time to cure and shrink.
