My dad is 53 and just got his first computer last year, congrats on keeping with the times you're really doing alot better than 99% of people your age do
That's actually really odd since your dad isn't even old in terms of computers. I mean, he's Gen X. So that's really strange. He was 35 when Windows XP and GTA 4 was out to give you some perspective. Perhaps it was just a personal choice and not age related? I suspect it's the latter.
Great video! A little tip on setting tool offsets... never measure from the top of your work, always measure from the table or fixture using a standard height block. It can be any height, as long as long as you know what it is. Then measure the delta between your tool reference and your workpiece reference. This way if you machine off the top of your workpiece and you need to change/replace a tool mid-cut you still have your datum.
I don't know how I got here but I am happy to be here. I've always imagined that when someone reaches a certain age they shouldn't stop producing, instead of this, keeping a certain kind of activity is the way to stay alive. Most people who get retired just eat, drink and sleep. some traveling and visitings and is waiting for the dying day to come. You are an example to follow. I respect you and I would like to be just like you when I get retired. We need many people like you to enrich our lives and teach us that life goes on, even when the system takes us out of the scene. Thank you so much for your life example. And as if that weren't enough, the final song of the video is my favorite from the youtube library "Must be something" 25:24. God bless you 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 Sorry for my english☹
I would add reminder for people to know the Maximum rpm speed for the bit they are using, to buy only quality bits. as a bigger bit at too high of speed might explode apart. Very nice video thanks
Much respect old timer. Starting my own CNC business in Kentucky. I come here to learn. Groovy music. Mesmerizing footage. All the possibilities wake me up when I should be asleep. Can’t wait to have a functioning shop soon. It’s my goal to be my own boss, and make things that make people smile. I’m interested namely in coats of arms, folk art, making forms to cast recycled aluminum pop cans. Your channel inspires me and other artists, creators, and techies. High five across the pond, cousin.
i got so much better at cnc wood carving once i realized the importance of calculating the spindle rpm for the feed rate and the specifications of the bit. The bit doesn't even get too hot to touch when it's making chips properly; You just have to get more comfortable putting some lateral force on it instead of thinking the cnc machine is supposed to be moving with no resistance
There are rotating steel, brass or palstic brushes available for the Dremel. I think those might speed up the process of cleaning in case it's only burrs that are left?
@@S31Syntax If you know what the cutter is doing you know where you need to program it. On that eagle it would take longer than 2 hours but if we are talking about selling wood carvings it would be well worth it.
I wish we were neighbors/friends since I could learn a tremendous amount from you on many different topics. Will have to settle for the videos that are quite nice.
When I work in metal, to get a nice finish I leave about 0.2-0.5mm for a fine cut. Just run the program again and it will get rid off that "fur" and leave a great finish. Cuts out that extra manual work. Great video, inspires me to start woodworking!
You should be able to write a simply G code program in Mdi instead of having to turn your handle tell it S1000 M3 and then G91 Y12.00 F5.0 and you can feed incremental without having to write a full program. Awesome 👏 work i like your channel ive been a cnc programmer for 25+ yrs and am fixing to buy a router for some side projects 👍🏻
Nice job done Roger. You remind me of an old friend of mine who has since pass away. I watched several of your videos and enjoy them always. A brother N law of mine use to do refinery work, with various aluminum, brass ect... he was very good at it and some times they had things like the eagle to pour in metals, and they would on occasion use a sand blaster to remove the roughness, I use sand blasters for engraving and if you use filtered silicone sand it is like high grit sand paper, lets say 1000 grit plus and it is easy to sand with, might be an option in your future and it gets into all the small areas for ultimate sanding.
It might need cleanup, but I really like the look of that cedar with that pine. Very understated and pleasant. Using a shiny new ball-end cutter might reduce the hand tooling, but you can treat the cedar with sealer (Min-Wax Sanding Sealer works) before the final tool change to reduce tear outs at sharp angles. Just slow down your spindle & feed, give the piece lots of time to dry, then pause and check occasionally to make certain the cutter flutes aren't clogging with material. The first time I tried that, I didn't wait long enough for the sealer to dry. The very tip of the ball-end cutter clogged, got hot, burned the piece, then broke the cutter. Spot treatment with cyanoacrylate adhesive has worked for me, but it gets soft when heated, so caution is advised.
Those remaining outer edges are a little time consuming to reduce down, prior to swapping out the cutter again for the fine cutter. Why not enter instructions at the very beginning with the 12.7mm cutter installed that removes 6-8mm from the left and right side and then continues to rough cut the object (in this case it is an Eagle). Reducing those outer edges first would save you an awful lot of time and also a whole cutter change. not to mention the wear and tear of that cutter. Just a thought. God bless.
aunque estoy en mexico me gusto su video...ya lo comparti en facebook para que todos mis parientes vean el video..muy buena aportacion al publico de youtube
Nice work and sweet router. You could vacuum-infuse the wood with epoxy resin prior to milling. That way it's a lot harder and less fuzzy while milling and it yields to a more robust part
Could you replace the bits with metal cutters and make a brass eagle? Before they had computers I used to use a tape drive milling machine and carved out different things with aluminum. I was trained back then by a teacher that machined parts for the first space shuttle. He helped make the doors on the space shuttle and normal tolerances for machining are plus or minus 5 thousandths, but for the space shuttle the tolerances were plus or minus one thousandth.
It depends how rigid this router is and what the spindle horsepower is. Routers are normally reserved for wood and plastic, while CNC mills are used for metals (and plastics). This particular machine might be able to handle brass though, it's not a very tough material to cut.
I'm assuming you're talking inches. 1 thousandth of an inch is 25 micron. I work on a crankshaft manufacturing line, and we run to a bearing diameter tolerance of +/- 8 micron.
Roger, yes cedar is also very hard on your tools even carbide. I noticed even with oak the same effects. Pine seems to cut the best for me. I agree with you on the 2.2kw spindle. I upgraded from the 1.5KW. Only thing is I have to share the 220volt dryer plug with the old lady. Or get one installed in the garage. Good work I always enjoy watching your videos and watching you progress over the years.
Hearing an older gentleman say the phrase "G-Code" in a casual way completely unrelated to the common modern inner city vernacular referring to a gang members code of personal conduct, is rather interesting to acknowledge, if nothing else. Funny when you think about it.
As soon as I saw all the jagged fury edges I thought, more cutting paths would also help with the amount of post processing. I would have tried double or even triple the roughing passes. then I would have switched to a 3/8ths inch ball cutter and left about 0.010" of stock with a decent 0.025" step-over. If your software has "rest milling" it will only go over areas it has to mill for the 3/8ths, I don't know how complicated or how complete of a package that software is. If possible (with your software), I would have used an 1/8th inch ball mill after that and cleaned out a bit more, again leaving 0.010" stock with the same 0.025 step-over. Then switch to your finishing tool, looks like a tapered ball mill. Perhaps go a tiny bit slower or give it more spindle speed and feed (both). Wood can be tricky to get a smooth finish with the more exotic woods, as you have noticed. Please keep in mind that I am not "telling you what to do" or being an armchair critic. I'm just thinking out loud what I might try after seeing how that type of wood has responded to the tool paths that you tried.
It may be more cost effective to finish it by hand. Doing another entire pass (or multiple passes) with that small of a tool takes forever. You could almost have another one cut out in the time it takes. I guess it just depends on what other orders you are filling at the time and if it is better time management to let the machine do the work.
A flap/brush wheel for a drill is a major time saver. It will clean up your carving is under 5 minutes and get into all the details. They work best at a low rpm. Its called sand-o-flex
What does this supposed to mean.. this is his job.. thats what he is specialized at. Its like saying this doctor has more knowledge that that student in school that likes biology..... 🤦🏻♂️
To expedite the process after the roughing pass, set a boundary along the relief and only machine within the relief and you won't spend any time outside on the pine. If you zero from the pine, and set up your file accordingly, you can zero .02 below and let the pine act as the sacrificial board and remove all excess in the roughing pass and save significant time. Nice video mate.
Beautiful work Roger! I love the manual labor involved as well. The only thing I'm totally amazed by, is that people actually want to buy this eagle. For me the art and the beauty of it is in working with machines, I never understood that people want to buy products, I only understand making things.
Not everyone has the skills to make everything although one could fell there own tree and carve a table out of it many people will say that it is worthwhile investment to buy the table or egal in this case instead of acquiring the skills instead investing Thier time into other ventures
Ceder is such a nice quality though because is an aromatic, and a clear coat has lots of luster. I have always wanted a CDC machine and may get one. Thank You.
Hi Roger, I've found with some woods, to avoid furry bits you do the clearance along the grain and then the finish across the grain. Also a straight ball nose rather than a tapered ball nose does slightly better as it gets down into the cusps better. Also, you can do an offset tool path, it takes longer but there is less post cleaning up. What wood do you find mills the best with no fuzzies?
color me confused. Why wouldn't you just include those extra side bits in your original roughing file. Or why noot manually cut them down then shave them down so you don't have to sit there slowly planing down the sides all the way from the top. Just seems like extra work.
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not possible with wood carving bcz those designs are hollow inside. And they have metal weights present inside the wings inorder to bring the center of gravity at the beak.
next time you find yourself having to do tedious hand work, May I suggest this approach? Leave the part in place on the table and do one more cycle after the finish pass. If possible, change out the bit for a new sharp one. Cedar, ALL CEDAR is hard on bits and they go dull rather quickly when compared to other wood types. whether your cutter is carbide or HSS cedar will flatten it in a hurry. Good Luck. Nice image too btw. Cheers from British Columbia Canada. (the Real home of the 'american' bald eagle! LoL!)
There's a guy in our vicinity who has some setup like this and does incredible stuff, but there aren't enough people with money in this valley who will buy stuff like this to support him as a business. You need to be in some location where people think they need stuff like this and have plenty of money for it to be worthwhile.