2nd Gear & Synchro Replacement, Ford Mondeo Mk5 A basic description of how i replace the second gear and synchro hub assembly on a six speed ford mondeo transmittion.
Thanks a lot Alan for sharing your knowledge with us it helps a lot for me to do it myself most repairs in my galaxy with the same engine. All the best mate and please keep record your valuable videos 🙏😊❤
Thanks for this video, Alan. I'm in the process of swapping final drive ratios, making one gearbox from two. This has really helped clarify a load of questions I had. Cheers, mate.
Did you ever need to replace the fixed gear wheel from the counterpart shaft? I've got a couple of shafts in bits here, easy enough to get the freewheel gears off, as per your video. But the counterpart gear would seem to be interference fit. E.g. 6th gear output shaft. Thanks again and keep up the content!
Hi Alan Thanks for all the great and instructive videos you post. I myself work at Ford and have had a lot of use from many of the films. I thought of this video with the gearbox and the sealant, I think you should put the sealant on the inside of the bolts instead so it can't leak out through the bolt holes.
Superb commentary and timed video images , like a modern day Haynes manual in video form only much more informative and much better executed . Hats off to you sir
Fascinating video and I doubt , very strongly, that anyone will follow your example to repair their gearbox. My Mk3 2L Duratec at 79,000 changes fine and with original clutch. It is petrol. Keep up these videos.
I have sorted old Austin Cambridge gearboxes. The usual problem with high mileage gearboxes was a worn layshaft and bearings. Replacing the layshaft was fairly straightforward on the later gearboxes as they had caged needle roller bearings. The earlier ones were very tricky as they used loose needle roller bearings so you had to place 3 lots of rollers, greased, in the laygear then carefully slide in the layshaft! Swearing was often involved as you can imagine!
Very valuable knowledge, thank you so much. My second gear has started top pop out, but only during engine braking on steep bumpy hill with non smooth road. 1.6 ford fusion from 2004, so i'm pretty sure it's same gearbox in it, IB5 if i'm not mistaken.
Allen Excellently presented video mate That is the sort of job no diy mechanic would ever dream of taking on theywould just get a second hand gearbox I found the video very interesting and some guys could take this job on after watching this video you give us confidence you learn by watching someone else who has done the job Phil in stoke
thanks philip, like everything, its just having the time to understand jobs like this and once you get your head around it , it becomes a lot easier, cheers😊
Alan - this was a very informative video. Thanks for showing the gearbox, it's super interesting to understand how it's built and how it works. My MKV was an automatic and I know the automatic ones have bad opinions, most buyers search for the manual mondeos, as they have an opinion of long lasting, no problem causing gearboxes. Graeat video!
The only automatic box that Ford use that truly deserves it's infamous reputation is the DCT250 (dry clutch) dual clutch box (mainly fitted to the lower power petrol engine Fords). The DCT450 (wet clutch) is pretty solid for a dual clutch system as long as the box fluid AND filter is serviced correctly AND on schedule.
Great video. The job of the synchro rings (also called baulk rings) is to provide some friction as you begin to engage a gear so the shaft speeds are matched when the synchro hub clicks into place. Crunching when engaging gears is usually down to these rings being worn. Jumping out of gear, on the other hand, usually means worn synchro hub as you have described.
And to reiterate, the worn synchros will cause the initial crunching during gear change, which in time will result in jumping out of gear. It would have been nice to see / measure the synchro gaps and explain their purpose.
Great video! On my 2009 Mazda 6 the second gear has always been bit difficult to engage through my ownership from 22k to 136k miles, it never got better but it also never got worse so I just lived with it. My 5 speed Mk2 Focus gearbox is much more tricky with it's second so might get myself a second hand unit to play around with.. specialist quoted £650 for a replacement gearbox all in and £450 if I would take it out and put back in myself.
cheers bartosz, if the parts inside your gearbox were to cost under £300 then its probably worth having a go..or take it apart and give it to the specialist, tell him you half stripped it ..he might give a bigger discount lol
@@alan4xHi Alan, I got a second hand unit from scrapyard a year ago but only fitted it yesterday 🙈 no rush Lol I've seen a video on you tube where someone explained that clutch slave cylinder needs a special anaerobic sealant on flange where it mates with gearbox. Do you use any special sealant on them when you put new concentric slave cylinder? I've used Wellseal last time and it indeed leaked!
@@alan4x I'm still safe in the knowledge that if ever anything goes wrong with my focus ST Diesel I know where to go haha. To be fair I work on em quite a bit but we don't really have any bother with em. Keep the videos coming I always learn tips from them especially the crank bolts on the 2.0 PSA engines!!
Hi Alan great video, this appears to happen to quite a lot of the 6 speed gearbox's connected to modernish ford tdci engines, mileage doesn't seem to matter it appears to be more of a wear through age
Good work on the gearbox , you made it look easy because you know this Mondeo gearbox , but I would need more experience to repair it myself , good video Alan 👍
Thanks for the video Alan. I had this exact problem on my 2013 Mondeo 2L Diesel. The difference was mine was low mileage, just over 60k. Ended up with a new gearbox (clutch was changed at the same time). I still think second gear isn't quite as slick as it should be, it's definitely slightly more difficult getting it into second than the other gears. Also, since the gearbox swap, the cruise control hasn't been the same. It's harder to get it to engage in the first place, and it keeps dropping out for no reason. This is the only complaint I've got about this car, other than that it's excellent, which is a bit a of a shame.
cheers mystakeef, when you say new gearbox..is that new or rebuilt..if its a rebuilt box it may still have worn parts which will give you more problems, but good luck😊
@@groundskeeperwille if its problematic or not smooth going into second gear then i would say something is not quite right as they should be very smooth from first to second and third to second
Hi Allan !! Good job, as usual! Can you tell me, please, the codes of the parts you changed, or where can I find those codes? I have a Volvo s40 with a 2.0 diesel engine and MMT6 gearbox and I have some problems with the second gear! Thank you!
Hi Alan, it seems lots of people have problems getting the 6 speed box into 1st gear in cold weather, does what you've explained in this vid cause or have anything to do with this issue? I have a 2007 Mk3 2.0 tdci, I've have upgraded the oil to FE 75W as used in the later boxes, but it's still not perfect, or wasn't during the colder weather. Thanks.
cheers malc, yes, for all the trouble to remove the gearbox its a good chance to fit a new clutch and duel mass flywheel if it has not been replaced in a long time, just a lot of expense😑
Hi Alan! Not a relevant comment to the video but you've done loads of mk3 mondeos so you're like my last hope. I've got a 1.8 duratec petrol, and there's a fairly silent but audible rattle-like noise when I'm accelerating under 2100rpm or so. Can't really hear it at high revs, or super low loads. There's no noise from the swirl flaps though. Could the DMF be shaking rattling when put under load? It's also inconsistent. Sometimes it rattles sometimes nothing. Thanks, cheers from Hungary. Love your videos.
Great video Alan, have you ever taken the transit custom gearbox apart? I was wondering if the internals where the same, the box has the same selector and all bolts in the same position, it looks like it's just the caseing that's different, I have a transit custom wich is jumping out of first gear, was hoping to strip it and replace it myself. Any info would help.
funnily enough i am doing a transit touneo custom 2017 right now, yes it is basically the same box and layout so you can use the mondeo box as reference, i am putting transit gearbox vid out in next few days
Hello do you know if Ford focus’s mk2 in particular have very heavy clutch pedals with a lot of resistance ? My car has had a new clutch new slave and master and when I put new clutch pedal was soft and smooth for a week then the crazy heavy pedal came back…. Anyone know what this could be?
1st gear synchro ring wear is rare (see what I did there?) cos it doesn't really have to synchro much because it's usually selected when the box is at rest.
Nice walk through - and if you want info on taking the thing apart, just run the second half in reverse. I am surprised though - to learn that a British automotive workshop has no hydraulic press. 😉 Btw - as I understand; those bearing puller kits aren't that expensive - you might even be able to rent one.
cheers peter, we do have a press but it is at the garage down the road so for the sake of less hassle its just as easy to use the vise and a hammer, it would be a lot easier with the correct puller, might look into that
Diesel engines are great when you don't have EGR and a DPF, but all the modern emissions stuff makes them unreliable and a complete pain in the ass. If you run a fleet of taxis like alan does, then the fuel savings probably make it worth it, but for the average family car, i would always stick with a gasoline engine.
i have found the dpf on the mk5 mondeo very reliable but if you have a fault on the car like a split turbo boost hose the dpf will soon clog up and give you issues
Seems the internals of the MMT6 box hasn't change much over its lifetime except for the main selector shaft having the sensor to read out which cog you have selected. I had the 1p's worth of the plastic break off my 2nd/3rd selector fork... on my mk3 6 speed. New forks had a different design...
My Fiesta Getrag IB5 started to grind in second. And stops after heating up. New oil new clutch (due to other errors) I don’t have urge to repair it, but these things are made from powder metal junk as I see. Very cheaply made just to last 3-10 years depending on conditions.
The red sealant is Loctite 518 which isn’t massively expensive. Reason why the ford stuff is silly expensive is because it’s specially made for them for the 1.0 ecoboost engines, they shove it through a centrifuge process to remove any air bubbles from the sealant and that extra process is why it costs more and because it’s done specifically for ford like everything they whack a markup on top. But rather than sell 2 versions of the sealant, 1 for the ecoboost engines and 1 for the gearboxes which pretty much amounts to same sealant other than the centrifuge process they only sell the 1. But you can buy 518 as a Loctite product and it works fine because it’s the proper product.
There are some good animated videos here on youtube, that show how the power is transmitted through the different shafts and gearsets. Makes it a lot easier to understand.
2004 Yeah all this age restriction on taxi's is getting a bit old hat with so little rust on modern vehicles as for buying £30,000 electric taxi's to transport people to Airports that have had millions spent on them to be more efficient to encourage people to burn yet more untaxed aviation fuel one contradicts the other.
