Let's see what we can do for this guy. Here is a link to my other vid...How far can you go between oil changes. • How far can you go bet... The oil is the one thing in common and I'm sure many others have seen this sort of thing too.
You sir, are one great mechanic : one who takes pride in his work. I am a home mechanic, but I know enough to recognise a smart cookie when I am listening to one.
Hi, I'm from Brazil and I have a Commodore. I did this procedure that you explane and to my surprise I found small joints inside ... someone opened the front cover and did not clean properly .... today the engine works in good condition !!! tks
Hi Zig. Thank you for your informative video. I thought you were having a joke with everyone when you showed the broken dipstick as I found out how it happened. If you refit the sump with the dipstick still in it can bind on the baffle plate and break. Of cause I didn't realize this had happened until I started to refill the oil then went to check the level and found I could not remove the Dipstick :(. So had to start all over again... and replace the dipstick. So tip for anyone else performing this. REMOVE THE DIPSTICK BEFORE YOU REFIT THE SUMP!!!.
@@thehassanhashemi If you take the sump off, and leave the dip stick in the tube, when you go to refit the sump, the dipstick does indeed get caught on these so called baffles in the sump and breaks off the tip. These baffles are small rectangular low walled chambers in the sump, and their purpose is to control oil surge when traveling very quickly around a corner on the road. And oil surge is literally just the oil sloshing up on on side under g forces of hard cornering and potentially leaving the oil pickup uncovered by oil and sucking air. Which is terrible for bearings etc. Australia has a lot of roundabouts that seem to get taken at very high speed. I've seen a few times a car fly past me and whiz around a roundabout at a huge velocity and then the tell tale big puff of oil smoke from the exhaust as the oil gets shoved about by induced gravity and leaves the pickup exposed for a bit and then dumps all over the pickup as the car powers through the turn. It's on older cars I've seen this happen and it was obviously causing problems. So to help alleviate this, car makers took a leaf out of racing car practice and started designing baffles into the sumps of normal everyday cars. To control oil surge and the highly likely engine damage that results. And it's not just Alloytecs that you can break the dipstick off in. A mate and I did the same thing when we forgot to remove the dipstick in a bloody Mazda CX-7 when replacing the sump. Somehow Zig seems lucky enough not to have wrestled with a 2.3 Petrol Turbo CX-7, but we replaced a blown turbo on one (extremely common problem) and for backyard mechanics like us that was a totally horrible bastard of a job.But yes, baffles are a real thing, and it's not from draining and replacing the oil, but from removing and putting back on the sump.
I experienced a similar issue with a Toyota Echo. Like the Alloytech, the engine was a great little performer but the manufacturer basically designed the engine to stew in its own juice. The recommended oilchange intervals are rather too long. There were two things going on with the oil pressure, obstruction of the pickup screen and a stuck pressure relief valve piston. The oil pressure light came on after I inadvertantly selected a low gear and the engine ran fast. I drive fairly conservatively so the engine had not spun that fast in a good while. My guess is that against the resistance of a clogged filter, the pressure relief valve moved into a space it had not occupied and got stuck. I had assumed the engine overspeed had damaged a bearing by the knock which had developed..Thinking that it was done for, I overfilled the engine with oil to get splashfeed to the bearings and up to the camshaft via the timing chain. As things turned out, the bottom end was good. When the Allotech starts cold, there is a buzz of the oil pressure relief setting off as the oil pump reaches pressure then it runs quielty. Noise builds as the engine warm up. I am hopeful it is just a clogged filter but the pickup screen is likely blocked too. When I bought the car, I thought the clean oil was too good to be true and on the first long run after repairing all the other known faults with the vehicle, the "check oil" warning came up. The vehicle was a "rescue" at a very cheap price. Problems and work to be done were expected. The owner had taken good care of it but had loaned it to a relative. It broke his heart when it was returned to him as a no-goer. The no-go was due to a simple fault, a corroded joint in the key fob. It seems that the driver got locked out. Two windows were loose in their frames from the old trick of lifting them out to get in. It seems the car thought it was getting stolen so the immobiliser did its job. My first thought on checking the non-op key was "could it really be so simple". I began to open it to replace the coin battery then discovered the resistive groundplane joint. The litany of other fixes to be done remained.
My experiences with Toyotas that get neglected is they clog the pick-up..You'll hear the filter buzzing...Yep they design vehicles to fail...That's how they sell new vehicles...Cheers mate.
One thing that I should mention is a Ford customer had trouble with noisy hydraulic lifters in a brand new Ford XP Falcon in the box 1960's which was caused by the Castrol brand of oil. Ford dismantled,hot tubbed & rebuilt the engine under warranty, changed the brand of oil used then they never had any problems with it after that was done !
Nice work. I knew a guy that worked on VWs and he had a customer that would trailer his car to the mechanic if it was close to going over the limit on his next oil change.
same thing happen to mine.rebuilt the top end with new cams cleaned as much as i could.did the sump and it wasnt too bad.6 oil changes later and its been running really well 178k
I have just changed a motor for a bloke with a VZ Crewman,it was low KS,it's had been serviced by workshop on Castrol magtec on 10k service intervals for the last four years,it stopped no comppression,so i swapped in used good LEO engine from a wrecker,it's Running good,no more Castrol and it's 5K interval now,oil is cheap..
I just did a similar fix on a 2010 Chevy 3L V6. There was crud all over the engine and barely over 100k miles. Pulled the pan and cleaned it out. the oil pickup tube didn't appear clogged, but there was a lot of sediment in the pan potentially causing issues. The way it seals with an oring also leads me to believe that could have been a fail point as well. Anyhow, now for the most part it's fixed. no low oil pressure light, but on occasion the ending still sounds louder than it should which concerns me. I may run some seafoam through it at some point to see if that helps.
That was the same engine in a Cadillac catera in the states? No one changes their oil anymore. My engines look new inside, even on the truck or the wagon which had any cheap name brand on sale motor oil for years until I took over, but changed regularly. I think when you mix and match brands sometimes you get that weird oil bake on some of the parts, but it cleans right off. Do you have one of those aluminum block/ head cleaners in the shop? We had it at toyota. When a head looked like that crank case it came out looking new. I think the brand of the machine was CUDA? I would run some diesel truck oil in there, that stuff cleans really well. Nice RTV job!
G'day Zig. My daily work hack is a VZ ute I've had from new with this donk. Not had any of the problems I keep hearing about with it so far ..... touch wood. Its just ticked over 140,000 k's. Think maybe that changing the oil myself from day one, using Nulon flush every time, and Penrite HPR 5 may be the ticket to making these things last. Took the rockers off last oil change just to have a look for the sludge problems I keep hearing about. It looked tops under there, no probs.
@@ziggassedupOuch, I just bought a few bottles of Magnatec to do my own oil change!! (10w 40). I've previously been using Ultraclean 10w 30 - seemed to run well. I have no doubt I WILL experience "issues" in the future - Holden's screwed me over on a timing cover leak, didn't fix it under warranty and first service outside warranty told me it was a $1,500 fix. Didn't get it done. Didn't check my oil after a shop service either - not sure if it wasn't filled up properly or some seriously shitty oil - within 2 months I heard "weird grinding noises" driving up the ramps in a car park. Thought it was suspension, but it wasn't - by the time the oil warning light actually came on, I put a full 5 ltr bottle oil in and it STILL WASN'T FULL on the dipstick!! Ouch. Undoubtedly this HAS caused engine damage, will have stretched the timing chains, etc..... but at least (for the moment) it's still going. Life might be different if I hadn't lost my career over this covid nonsense, if I had an income I might be able to afford to pay for something :(
Love that flush! I run for about 150km with it in before the change. Difference in colour between the old oil pre-flush and post-flush is enough to tell me that it works. At 5000 km my oil looks pretty clean, looks like it’s 100,000 km old after the flush is added!
I bout a 2006 Adventra with the some engine the engine was gone got it cheap then got the whole engine rebuild i changed the oil after it was run in , then on the 5000 km then every 10.000 . After watching a few videos about these engine i have done 42.000km since . NOW am going to start changing the oil at 5000 km as i always change to oil filter too . It won't hurt if anything it will be better at 5000 km oil change , Cheers for the advice .
I have a series 1 ve omega, I change the oil myself every 5,000 kms or every 5 months, I’ve heard it said a lot that Holden’s oil change interval is too long
Hey Ziggy great channel you have here thanks. A question please, the centre bolt just under the harmonic balancer, can it just be undone until it touches the balancer and clears enough to let the sump drop or does the balancer need to be removed? Cheers from qld👍🏻
A little tech question. The modern multigrade oils. I assume they start cold at lowest viscosity and thicken when hot. The old straight grade oils would set an engine raltting if it was worn once the oil heated up. The same thing seems to be happening with this engine which has obstruction to the pump screen. It starts quietly then begins to create noise ( phasers I think losing servo pressure ). My imagining is that when the oil heats and gains viscosity, it then is harder for the pump to draw through the blocked screen and push through a blocked filter. Is that the mechanism of what happens of am I down a rabbit hole on this thought? This one has about 10mm of breadcrumb sludge on the bottom of the sump. If the bearings have not started to peel and the engine still endures, there will be a few repeats of raking sludge out., So I have gone the route of drilling an access hole to make this a regular task at each oil change. It is a pity that the engine developers did not find a way to draw more air through the engine case even if it meant installing an extra injector to add fuel to the charge of air coming from the case.
Is it worth adding a crank case breather filter on an alloytec. An alloytec which has some modifications, gets driven hard sometimes but recieves 5k services? Cheers Ziggy
buyer beware but good job extending the life of the engine a bit more ......dipstick marks ? we don need no dipstick marks!!! we'll make our own dammit!!!!
@@ziggassedup I think it's from refitting the sump with the dipstick still in it's tube in the engine; gets caught on a baffle and snaps off the tip.. Happened to me and a mate refitting a sump on a Mazda CX-7. But we didn't add any marks to what was left. Picked up a secondhand dipstick next time we were at the wreckers
hi just wondering is it bad to drive it like this before cleaning the pickup and sump if it is bad how long can you be driving it for before it is bad for the engine
@@ziggassedupI cleaned the sump and pickup and it’s still doing check oil but there is still oil pressure and now we just changed the whole oil filter holder and filter and it has stopped will it occur again
Use only GM motoroil 5w-30 dexos 2 or 1 and change oil every 5000 miles or 7500-8000 km. Keep engine running. Check thermostat...engine always running right temperature. Just saying.
He is totally wrong, nothing to do with the oil used in these engines, its a design fault with the PCV system on these engines, doesn't matter what oil you use or how often you change it, these engines will still clog everything up.
i had sludge problem on pick up so what idid instaed of pulling engine out or droping front end was workout where the pick up would be using scale ruler and photos got a 35mm hole saw drilled through the sump and i was right bang on under the pick up and it was glocgged cleaned it and cleaned out sump running desiel through it ,i made a 60 x60 aluminium 4mm plate drilled holes before i cleaned out and tapped some threads into sump 4 x 10mm bolts made a gasket and used hi temp gasket goo fitted filed with oil beautifull not a proplem . and if i ever do its only 4 small bolts it looks like it is part of the car , i showed my mechanic mate and he dose it all the time now
I have been thinking about this same solution. Can you advise of the centrepoint for the necessary hole? I was also thinking about making an extra concertina strainer out of termimesh to lay in a ramp above and into the oil pool to keep the oil pickup screen cleaner for longer. The valleys in the concertina pattern would gather flaked material but leave enough free surface area at the peaks for oil to pass through. Not sure if there is enough real estate in there to do this.
@@drooge42 Thanks for that info. The oiling seems to have been the Alloytech's fatal flaw. The everyman's car is not always maintained for the best. Manufacturers sealing the engines up to stew in their own juice has not been helpful. It seems that to enable the computers to maintain a healthy mixure balance, the amount of airflow through the engine case to remove fumes and vapours has been heavily restricted. When an engine begins to make blowby, the case pressure becomes positive and it seems that the blowby pressure vents via the intake tube to the intake path before the throttle body, not the PCV valve.
@@DARANGULAFILM i used these photos you can see in one where it goes forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/img_1164-768x1024-jpg.162108/ forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/img_4156-2-jpg.130055/
Because it sticks to everything it eventually builds up layers that turn into gunk...That's my observation from all the engines I've seen that have run magnatec.
hey az I just bought a v e r man I'm getting crank and camshaft errors pretty sure the timing chain because obviously very common problem with these engines what sort of ballpark figure am I looking at to get this fixed
A full chain kit with guides chains tentioners seals and gaskets is about $900 retail...ebay has some cheap ones but you know where they're made right.?
*How hard is it to get a sump off of a ve ute? and to suck the filter in like that dose the oil pump push the oil to the outside of the filter or suck it thru the outside to the inside and since your going to reply ill sub you.*
Castrol advertise that it has "Magnetic" qualities and sticks to all of the rotating and moving parts( and non moving parts) to eliminate dry starts...Sounds good yes.?..But what happens when you change the oil.?..Yep lots of it is stuck to all the internals so you add new oil and more sticks on top of the old stuff and so on as it bakes away and then chunks break away and..Well you know the rest.
Ive used 10/40 castrol magnetic in all my cars Ive owned since the mid 90s and never had an issue with it. Currently have 60000ks on my alloytech and dont have this gunk issue at all. Mind you I change my oil and filters religiously every 10000ks. Also a side note I know of three Holden service depts that use 10/40 Castrol mag for servicing the 3.6 donk.
wow .......from the oil they use and not changing oil like they should eh?....nice repair sir....i remember quaker state had shit oil back in the 70's football season started tonight....
Is that what I said.?...There's no script when shooting vids one take.and plenty of people say one thing when they mean another but thanks for pointing that out Graham.
magnatec? is it too thick for the oil filter. I use semi synthetic oils with a dash of heavy duty oil stabilizer along with a bit of proma or nulon friction reducer never had issues myself, nice n clean under the rockers on my own cars even with the horrible vvt. I change my oil every 5000k I prefer the earlier holden V6 engines VP - VT their my favourite.
Ziggy ford is bringing out a petrol two stroke no valves no vvt horizontally apposed engine /no spark plugs compression ingnited for the F series Ute's, 45% of the power from the fuel will be converted to actual working power instead of 25% that current engines provide. a big f350 will be getting 37mpg city driving instead of 10mpg or so. they're trialling it this year in Saudi Arabia in an attempt to slow the demand for hybrids and 100% electric cars.
I bad for own that Ve I rebuilt Ve ute have 20000 km on the clock Insurance claim the previous owner had and was auction off at some action line and I was like Jesus this guy who
I understand that my comment comes 6 years after the event, but. I can't express strongly enough how crappy Castrol oil is in modern engines. It wasn't even any good in the long term 50 years ago when I was building worked Red motors that could pull 80000 rpm every day in 40deg c. Castrol oil has always produced hard shalacs that just blocks everything. My oils of choice are Mobil, Penrite, valvoline, Nulon, Shell, Caltex. All of these are so much better than Castrol.
G'day Ziggy, Markuss here, Got the same Check Oil warning happening with my recently purchased WM Statesman (second hand of course) after watching your video, I have come the conclusion that my engine may be suffering the same issue. The cars service history is unknown. Some on here are mentioning 5W-30 Diesel Engine OIl to flush it out? Does this work? Have you used this process before? At present I use Penrite's full synthetic engine oils and there engine flush solution, and believe it does a pretty good job, do you have any suggestions or brands? Or are they much the same and full's back to personal preference? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZH5BMKqIvpc.html
@@ziggassedup Yes mate, I have changed the oil and flushed it with engine flush. And no, the engine is purring like a kitten, really quite engine, beautiful idle, all good on that side. After I changed the Oil I reset the fault codes I went for a drive and about 15min's later the Check Oil Warning popped up again? Was puzzled as I knew the engine oil level was perfect. So now I am thinking either a faulty sensor or a build-up of sludge and at worst what you found. I don't know the history of the car only that it the km's are 99% Highway
@Waughy And that's their problem. A lot of people can't or won't. Or just don't know its even a thing to be concerned about. Zig won't like what I'm going to say, being the Holden Man he is, but a Ford Barra six will tolerate abuse of a sort and duration that would quickly destroy an alloytec. There's a guy at work with a NA Barra six in his Territory and at some stage that he's not quite sure of, but certainly a few months ago, he blew his head gasket on the Barra, and because he's lazy and doesn't really care about the car, but also because it keeps going, he hasn't fixed anything or done any work other than topping up the coolant occasionally. But this poor motor in his Territory has been running on an oil/coolant sludge for the bearings etc since well before Christmas. And while it's noisy (he also runs a 3 inch muffler delete exhaust though), he canes the living shit out of it and it keeps getting him to and from work. Although as someone else at work observed as the noisy Territory grunted loudly away from the carpark one night, you wouldn't take it on a long trip. But the point is I think that an alloytec would've been long dead and buried. They're a finicky fussy sissy sort of motor that shits its pants really badly, unless you treat it right. And of course Japanese motors have been a bit like this for a long time. But the alloytec is worse
