✨ *PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO* ✨ 🔹 Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3A9wtyy 🔸 X-Chocks amzn.to/3A6Z33B 🔹 Trailer Coupler Lock Pin amzn.to/4fAN8vm 🔸 1/2" Retractable Breaker Bar amzn.to/3T1KyF9 🔹 Tongue Blocks amzn.to/46y05St 🔸 Breaker Bar amzn.to/3YHIDZL 🔹 1" Socket amzn.to/4dGnQKp 🔸 Measuring Tape amzn.to/46ROX3b 🔹 RV Snappads www.rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🔸 Quick Link for Brake Cable amzn.to/3LZDZ1y *OTHER VIDEOS YOU MAY LIKE* 🎥 Travel Trailer Tear Down ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yz2dYaqBiw8.html 🎥 Travel Trailer Set Up ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ermDoIB-y7s.html 🎥 Chain Test ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-clj42no4DxY.html If you want to see a lot of great videos on different hitch comparisons, check out my friend Cory @WanderingWeekends *You're INCORRECTLY Connecting Your Travel Trailer: The Correct RV Hook Up Process Explained* Unfortunately, there's a lot of misinformation on correctly hooking up or connecting a travel trailer to a truck or tow vehicle. In this video, I will show you the safe and correct way to hitch up. Chapters in this video: 0:00 Intro 0:19 Before Connecting 1:09 Positioning & Chaining 3:17 Mechanical Connections 5:21 Common Practice VS Physics 6:10 Big Thanks to RV Snappads 6:53 Chain Load Test 7:17 Brakes & Power 10:00 Bloopers #rv #rvlife #rvliving #rvlifestyle #rvtips #rvtravel #rvtipsandtravels *RV ESSENTIALS:* 🎥 Our Essentials Video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yuvS3zZL81c.html 🔸 Camco Rhino Flex Sewer Hose & Elbow Kit amzn.to/3wxaiyG 🔹 Camco Clear Sewer Elbow amzn.to/3eezBe7 🔸 Camco RV Water Filter amzn.to/4dfEp0x 🔹 Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3v0lL5I 🔸 Power Watchdog 30 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3hAmgCy 🔹 Power Watchdog 50 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3SDYTHs 🔸 Beech Lane Wireless RV Leveler amzn.to/402YpgI 🔹 Liquified RV Tank Treatment amzn.to/3ksg1Ck 🔸 Tire Minder TPMS amzn.to/3mjuBg0 🔹 Water Pressure Regulator amzn.to/3m3ZFzZ 🔸 Rubber Gloves 6 Mil amzn.to/3XNo7Dc 🔹 Best RV Water Hose amzn.to/3RCXalb *MAINTENANCE:* 🔸 Boeshield T-9 Rust Preventative & Lubrication amzn.to/3sjcjMx 🔹 Eternabond Roof Tape amzn.to/3Ad290J 🔸 Geocell Proflex Sealant amzn.to/3Qdbj8c 🔹 Road Tool Kit amzn.to/41NIQKj *INTERIOR:* 🔸 Cross Bar Door Handle amzn.to/3o8WWS5 🔹 Shower Caddy amzn.to/3bdU80W 🔸 Soap Dish amzn.to/3pKheSn 🔹 Oxygenics Shower Head amzn.to/3RCQKm1 🔸 Perfect RV Paper Towel Holder amzn.to/3tZxd1K 🔹 Dimmer Switch (watch this video) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2bbqBcSsRZQ.html 🔸 Electric Heater/Fireplace amzn.to/44ujuCX *EXTERIOR:* 🔸 X Chocks amzn.to/3m3ck2i 🔹 Carmtek 10 Digit Keyless Entry System amzn.to/3t4IMpB 📺 The Carmtek Lock Video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KcEUgsDw6kk.html 🔸 Low Point Drain Valves amzn.to/3Vko8AH 🔹 90 Degree Hose Elbow amzn.to/3RH1ksn *OUTDOOR GEAR:* 🔹 Blackstone Griddle amzn.to/3TG0pK1 🔸 Outdoor Gravity Chairs amzn.to/3Sb1p4M 🔹 Ground Mat amzn.to/41u3wXg 💥 Sign up for our FREE Newsletter: rvtipsandtravels.myflodesk.com/freenewsletter 👇 *DISCOUNT & COUPON CODES* 🚐 *10% off RV Snappads & Snapjacks* rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🛌 Get *25% off your RV Mattress* by Brooklyn Bedding at rvmattress.com/rvtips Use discount code: rvtips 🚛 TireMinder TPMS Systems (use coupon code RVTIPS25, get $25 off select systems) www.minderresearch.com/ (good through 2024) 💻 *We have a store on eBay!* www.ebay.com/usr/rv_tips_and_travels *If you want to support the work I do to help others, you can:* 1) Buy us a coffee: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=J2KKM9NR3BJJA 2) If you cannot donate, the easiest way to support our channel is to SUBSCRIBE, turn on ALL NOTIFICATIONS, click the LIKE BUTTON, leave a COMMENT & SHARE the videos with your friends. ✨⭐ *MORE RV ACCESSORIES ON AMAZON* ⭐✨ www.amazon.com/shop/rvtipstravels 💥 *NEW TO OUR CHANNEL?* Check out our catalog: www.youtube.com/@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS/playlists *Follow Us on Social Media* instagram.com/RVTipsAndTravels facebook.com/RVTipsAndTravels If you find a dead link, *PLEASE* let us know. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. There is NO ADDITIONAL COST TO YOU when purchasing from our links. AI imagery & audio may be used in this video. We may also receive products or payment to create videos, however our feedback is strictly based on our experiences, regardless of compensation. rv tips rv modifications rv mods rv life rv how to rv maintenance camping rv travel rv living travel trailer tips rv tips and tricks rv lifestyle rv hacks rv essentials travel trailer hookup travel trailer hookup to truck hitching up travel trailer hitch up tow vehicle hook up connect travel trailer rv hook up trailer connection rv brake cable rv safety chains rv coupler rv hitch up how to hook up a travel trailer how to connect an rv tow
Been towing bumper pulls for 25 years, watched this video to see how many things you did wrong, and it is SPOT ON! I’m glad someone finally addressed twisting chains. He is right about cutting off links to get the right length. Very well done, Ross!
@@nhamilton9545 I was thinking along the same lines, when using your own trailer you can have the correct chain length but when renting a uhaul /Penske trailer and the chains are too long they won’t adjust them to the proper length
there are chain reducers you can get if your chains are too long and you tow with multiple trucks (google double clevis) .. i will address this in an upcoming video.
Ive Towed for years buts this is a great refresher. I would like to add one tip. If after you back up and BEFORE you put the truck in park, engage your parking brake, and then put it in park this should eliminate that annoying 1 inch extra roll that often takes the truck out of position. 😊
Dont cut the chains, you may wish you had more chain should you change tow vehicles or hitches. Just move the hook down to the desired link and leave the unusued links dangling. If needed, fold them back on the chain and tie them to it with wire ties. Alternaively you can used rated H links to shorten the chains, leaving a loop of chain below the H link.
I'm reminded of the time I hooked up the camper and had gotten about a block when it suddenly came to me that I'd neglected to close the hitch. It was on our checklist but the wife and myself had missed it due to a completely unanticipated sequence of innocuous events. So now it's on the checklist twice. Another informative, no-nonsense video. Thank you!
@@floydffrogfloydffrog7453 not sure what those innocuous events are but I suspect your surrounding neighbors distracted you with their useless conversation. People just dont get it. When I am unloading or loading my car in the trailer or hooking up the trailer I dont want help nor do I want to engage in any conversation. That is how stuff gets missed. Again, people dont get it. At the race track that behavior is particularly bad.
Regarding the power between the truck and the trailer. After having the cable pinched and damaged between the anti-sway bar and the hitch assembly (which took a day of repair and the replacement of a number of fuses both in the trailer and in the tow vehicle) I got into the habit of attaching a bungee chord from the propane cover and the mid-point of the power cable. This allowed flexible movement of the cable but ensured that it didn't drop down where it could be pinched by the anti-sway bars and the hitch assembly. When they saw what I was doing a number of trailering friends started doing the same thing with positive results. No more pinched power cables.
One important reason for not having your chains too long is that they can spark on the pavement when hitting a bouncy spot in the road, potentially igniting a fire. That's not something you want anywhere, but especially in places like British Columbia or California where major wildfires are a yearly occurrence. Also, I'm going to start attaching my chains with the clasps upsidedown and my brake cable to the truck frame, neither of which occurred to me before seeing this video
Great video and spot on advice. I’m a recently retired MTO officer in Ontario, Canada. DOT for my American friends. I’m also an avid RVer. It’s all about getting to where we are going safely.
Another fantastic process video Ross! For the breakaway safety cable - I swapped out one of my license place bolts for an eye bolt and nyloc nut behind the fender - makes it super convenient to clip on and is independent of the hitch receiver
Oh my! I just bought a travel trailer in June from the dealership. We have went on 6 trips so far. Anywhere from 2hrs to 4hrs away from home. We are 1st time owners, so I wanted the dealership to do a walkthrough with us. I had *a lot* of questions. Of course, I will search RU-vid for answers also, but I never take just one person's word for it to be *_fact_* I will do a lot of research. Our dealership showed us how to hitch up and told us to *twist the chains* Ughhh! So, I am going to have to cut a couple of links out. He also told us to clip the chain downward on the hitch. *_WRONG_* Makes me nervous now. Thank you so much for all your videos. I have learned a lot from you!
Good job, Ross! I had a travel trailer from 2021 to 2023, and I made over 30 trips with this trailer. After watching your video, I see that I could have made a few changes to my procedure that would have made the whole travel process a lot safer. Twisting chains? Guilty! Thank you. Lou from Georgia.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS -- I think back to the mid-70s when I was towing small fishing boats. The small amount of knowledge that I acquired was from watching other fisherman or from asking questions of the supposed "experts" at the marina. I was happy to believe everything they told me because they were "experts." These folks had a lot of "seat of the pants" experience, but "experts?" Not hardly. Sometimes being lucky completely outweighs being smart. Not often, but once in a while. 🙂
something i really need to get around to doing... ive been putting it off for 7 years now, and my new tow vehicle has a small screen. time to get to it.
excellent video, only thing i do different is i use the loop on the pin to hold my cable for the brake lights and the cable for the emergency brake so it does not fall on the ground
Very good video and always helpful to have a refresher course every once in a while. I will admit to accidentally towing a toy hauler round trip from Glamis to San Diego. At the time I had a motorcycle trailer, a small utility trailer and a car trailer. I had a few different tongue/ball setups and had a 2" on the truck and the toy hauler was 2 5/16". Thank god for that 1000 pounds of tongue weight!!!!
Great video! I've been in the towing game a minute or two as well. I am so glad you pointed out to hook up the chains before lowering the tongue. While it was not during the hitching process, I witnessed a run away camper during the un hitching process because they un hooked the chains, and then un hitched the camper. I've always been a hook chains up first and unhook chains last guy...glad see more of us out there!
actually happened to me. unhitched the tailer and it twisted causeing the jack to slide off the block. i had used wheel chocks but 1 was resting on tree root and didnt grip well after the trailer changed pitch so that wheel rolled just an inch or 2 but enough to pull the jack off the block i was using. however the chains took the brunt of the load as it came down and it prevented the jack foot/jack and even A frame fram slamming into the ground so no damage was done. had i taken the chains off before that i have no idea how much worse that could have been. i also will no longer trust a root surface with the chocks. it sat tight when i put it in but i didnt think about how it would change when front pitched up. so i scrutinize the surface more.
wow, thanks for sharing Bret... interesting story and glad it worked out ok for you. I had something similar happen my first trip 8 years ago, but the trailer rolled towards the truck. in my case, a large tree root actually stopped it from hitting the truck, but you're exactly right: scrutinize the surface!
Hmmm, was the guys foot wrapped up like a Q-tip when that happened. 😮 If so, I might know him. 😳 He might have already been distracted trying to figure out how he was going to pay for over $12000 in medical bills. If this was it, the wheels were chocked already.
I would add last thing to disconnect. A personal experience, RV pad had a slight pitch and very smooth concrete with some dust on it. Wheel chocks started sliding jack came off block rolling a few feet enough for jack to be bent. Had to cut off and replace jack.
Thanks for the great video. I happen to be one of those individuals who twists one of my chains because it is longer than the other. It was good to see why I should shorten that chain. I also like the tip about clipping the breakaway cable to the vehicle frame rather than the hitch receiver. I'll have to see if my van has a good attachment point. One point I disagree with is the length of the breakaway cable. That's an issue I questioned before and did some research on. The RVIA (Recreational Vehicle Industry Association) recommends that the trailer break away cable be slightly longer than the safety chains rather than shorter. The reasoning is that if the trailer becomes uncoupled and held by the chains, the driver will still have full control over the brakes rather than them being fully applied and potentially making an unsafe situation worse. Keep making the great content.
Personally, I would just cut them to the right size... its really the proper way to do it. I would disagree with the break cable being longer... if the tongues detaches and the chains catch the tongue, the driver may have no way of knowing about the disconnection. with knowing this, coming to a stop could put the trailer through the truck. trailer brakes are not like truck brakes, they wont stop the trailer like truck brakes stop a truck. I do appreciate the input and its definitely an option.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Trailer brakes supplied with full current from the breakaway switch vs a controller create 2 very different results. If you install the chains correctly as shown in your video you still have control of the trailer and should be able to steer and stop with much more control than fully applied locked up trailer brakes. As far as knowing if it's come detached I would hope the noise and changes in vehicle geometry would alert even the worst of drivers.
On the surface, it does make sense that you would still want the ability to slowly brake and come to a stop without the brakes locking up if it becomes unhitched and is sitting on the chains. The reality though is that it may take too long for you to realize it is unhitched and your first knowledge of it may be the trailer slamming into the back of your truck. And if you do realize it immediately, your first reaction will be to slam on the brakes anyway.
im in the same boat, I can see pros and cons both ways. I feel like because the law only states you only need to have a brake cable connected and not a specific length, it might be a matter of personal preference? Im going to dig into this one a little bit. heres the ulitmate question... how strong are the brakes at 60-65 mph if they are immediately fully engaged. I know trailer brakes are more meant to AID the trailer in stopping, and are not necessarily the same strength as truck brakes are on a truck, for example. Knowing this, I dont feel like fully applied trailer brakes at your highest speed is going to make keeping the truck in the lane that difficult... the brakes should definitely make you notice something is wrong, but i dont think its going to cause an accident... I could be wrong, i have never fully squeezed my brake controller on the highway. I think the answer to that question will help us make the decision if we want our cable longer or shorter than our chains.... more to come on this. Thanks everyone!
Thanks for this video, I thought I was doing it the right way but I now know that I have a couple of things to change on my hook up process. I can't believe I never thought to hook up the chains right away to the tow vehicle, that makes so much sense.
i hoooked up chains after connecting for years too. after 8 years im not ashamed to say im still learning too, and thats what this channel is all about, learning from experience and through others experience.
Good to know that I’ve been doing things correctly, so thanks for that. Two things stuck out for me though as a 5 ft solo traveller. 1) I usually raise my hitch higher to make it easier to engage the clamps on my bars. 2) As a solo traveller I usually have to run back and forth several times to ensure all of my lights are working. With your hint to just engage the hazards, this will save me the extra steps. So thanks!
I can't tell you how much I value your videos! We upgraded from a popup to a 27RK Travel Trailer last May and your details are great! You are one of the few creators whose "ads" for your sponsor, I don't skip! Do you have a Maintenance Checklist? Like a "Yearly, Quarterly, Monthly, Daily" kind of thing? Like how often to treat your slide seals, or how often to sterilize your water system.
Thanks for a great guide to the process! I've always hitched before connecting the chains. That is an improvement I will take away! I've never found a good place to connect the brake safety cable. This bugged me, so I bored out the license plate holes and put eye bolts in. The brake safety cable is secured to one of the two eye bolts with a carabiner. My Tacoma had a metal behind the license plate, but the F-150 is all plastic. On the F-150 I used bumper washers to secure the eye bolts to reduce the unlikely risk of the eye bolts pulling through the plastic and ripping the license plate off instead of pulling out from the trailer side. For most trailers I have used, with a non-weight distribution hitch, I run the brake cable trough one eye bolt then to the opposite side to keep the brake cable just long enough. Since my Blue Ox WD hitch is longer, I just run direct to the eye on the same side that the brake safety switch is mounted to the trailer.
I have a steep driveway that has a fairly harsh angle where I inter the street so I don't install my load leveling bars when hitching up at my house. A half mile down from the house is a very wide and level pull out where I can safely install them. This also where I remove them on my way home. With all of the frame failures happening on travel trailers, I don't want to take the chance of damaging my trailers' frame.
Ross great points. Also the safety chains being installed from bottom up is also stronger from what I was told. The way the hooks pitch when safety chains are needed prevents them possibly snapping off tip of hook
something i really need to get around to doing... ive been putting it off for 7 years now, and my new tow vehicle has a small screen. time to get to it.
the goal here is to check the bulb filaments... i dont know why you would need to continuously check your trucks light outputs. once lights are wired, they are wired. i just dont see a need, just as i dont need to continuously check to see if my truck turn signals for correct wiring. Please share if there is something I'm missing.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS if you check the left turn signal, you’ll know that the left is working properly. If you check the right turn signal you know that the right is working properly. For instance my truck had an issue a while back where when I signaled left the right side blinked and vise versa when I signaled right the left side blinked. There ended up be a recall for the turn signal switch. If you’re just turning the hazards on you won’t catch this problem.
Just getting into trailer details and you have great content. TY. Best comment is stating the fact you will never charge ppl to watch your vids and that you have sponsors. Well done.
Interesting about hooking the brake cable to the frame. I drove semi’s for 40 years. I was told to NEVER put the safety chains upside down as the spring loaded flimsy retaining mechanism has fallen off many times. More likely than something knocking it off from the road! NEVER SADDLE A DEAD HORSE!!
Ive been towing this specific RV for 8 years and my retaining mechanisms have never come off my hooks. If yours have come off, and you believe them to not be hitting anything from the road, I would immediately question the quality of those chain hooks/retainer clips. They should also be replaced immediately, as you probably know a hook that was manufactured with a retaining clip will fail inspection without a retaining clip. The only time a retaining clip is not needed is if the hook was manufactured without one. Same with lifting chains, as outlined by OSHA, ASME & ANSI.
An other good habit to have before hitting the road is activating trailer brakes with the brake controller knob while starting to roll forward. That way you know that your trailer brakes are working and that they don’t drag after a brake application 😊
good point, i will usually tug test my trailer brakes about 10 seconds after pulling out of my driveway by using the override button on the brake controller only.
Another great video Ross. Nicely done. I must say I would like to hear from Lippert on the issue of stressing the axles/suspension components when you change tongue elevation a few inches with X-chocks in place. If that amount of stress is significant we have serious issues to worry about with our suspension systems. Just imagine the stress placed hitting a bump at 60 mph in comparison. If this stress is not good, I’m never driving on the freeway again!
That was my thought - I've actually forgotten the X braces and they just peeled out when i moved. i don't think these flimsy things are going to damage a suspension component.
i was skeptical at first too, but I'm going to trust the manufacturer on stuff like this, as minimal as it may seem. heres something to consider: when driving, the axels and wheels move independent of each other... when x-chocked, they are bound together, so if you think of it that way, by changing the pitch one axle will adjust differently than the other, depending if you are raising or lowering the front. have the x-chocks on during this process is not allowing them to move independently.... im not sure, im definitely not an engineer, but I feel if thats what the manufacturer is saying, its my obligation to let my viewers know, until someone can prove otherwise. hope that helps bud.
I always place my vehicle in neutral first, then apply the emergency brake, then place it in park. Fully agree 100% with the tips on your video. Great information.
crossing the chains also keeps the loop fairly consistent in droop as you go around corners. whereas hooking straight would leave the loop getting more slack on an inside turn and coming tighter in an outside turn.
For the trailer chain length issue. For years I just go to tractor supply and get the trailer chain hooks with the clip so you can remove them from the chains, and if my chains are long I can just shorten them up and have the extra hanging from that same clip, even doubled up the extra so it doesn’t hang so low or swing around much. Way better than twisting chains and allows for the same trailer to be used on different trucks with different chain length requirements
AHA! 2:50, thanks for that. I always figured that clasp down is safer, since more hook is engaged with the reciever. If the trailer comes down, it will tug downwards. I didn't think about the clasp being damaged and unhooked, that's a great lesson.
Depending on power cables, I have seen people use Velcro strap around the cable and cap (at the tow vehicle)as an extra safety, to keep the cable from disconnecting from the outlet.
As far as connecting the 7 way, do it while you are there, so it does not become a forgotten item. DC current does not care how many sources are tied together, the truck 7 way, your converter (shore power supplied) or your solar, its OK for all of them to power the buss at the same time. Just don't forget the 7 way and the light check, which I do last.
There is no problem with multiple charge sources to a 12volt battery other than not exceeding the charge profile of the battery. In fact you can have a solar panel array going to the battery(ies) plugged into shore with the converter on and have the 7pin and truck running. Here is what you have to figure. If it’s a single lead acid battery you don’t want to exceed a total charge of 40amps continuous. Lead acid batteries are like slow cookers. You cant charge them too fast otherwise they can swell. But if you have 2 or more then you probably don’t have enough charge sources to worry about. Im not big on converters because the preset logic as soon as you plug it in it will go into bulk charge for a longer time than necessary. Newer chargers that can do lithium or LA have logic that allows it to slow the charge quicker….but that’s another story. Bottom line. Watch out on multiple charge sources to 1 battery, go balls to the wall if there is more than 1.
I look at it in different way no hook to shore power and vehicle at same time. First disconnect shore power then hook up to vehicle. Not as a charging problem but to prevent forgetting to disconnect shore power. I've seen a few dragging their shore power cords and a time or two the stinky slinky hose. Most of the time it was in changing RV pad sites and distracted.
First off never trust a Dodge to pull anything. Just kidding, this is a good video. As someone who is in the class 8 trucking business, hot shot and pulls a travel trailer, I’ll throw my 2 cents in. If you don’t cross safety chains, that’s a DOT violation, twisted safety chains is also DOT violation. The emergency brake cable can be hooked to the same place as the safety chain, but not to the safety chain. I agree that somewhere other than the hitch is probably best, but if your entire hitch/receiver comes off the truck you have huge problems anyway. Now, I’ve never been stopped by DOT while pulling my camper, so I’m sure a lot of violations, people are going to say “I’ve been pulling my camper for 20 years this way and never had a problem” go missed. However we have been stopped plenty of times in tractor trailer/hot shot and gone over with a fine tooth comb, so I’m pretty familiar with DOT standards. Just poured a good drink, can’t wait to read the comments on this post…. Enjoy 😊
DOT doesn't usually pull over RV's unless something is seriously wrong, they are commercial vehicle enforcement. The whole purpose of safety chains is to prevent your unhooked trailer from taking out traffic behind it, not to hold up your trailer, not designed for that. If you have an e-brake set up, put a small shackle in the tow holes (should fit with safety chain) and connect to that. Otherwise great video.
Great video and great tips for those new to bumper pull RV's. However I disagree with one of your points... If after a failure of the hitch system, if the safety chains are keeping the trailer still connected to my tow vehicle as they are intended to do, I do not want the control of the trailer brakes taken away from me, the driver. The emergency braking activation cable is only for an instance where you have totally lost control of the trailer (meaning it is 100% detached from the tow vehicle). The trailer power cable should also be long enough so as to not disconnect from the vehicle, and the emergency braking system should not activate if the chains are pulled to their full length with the trailer unhitched, but the chains remain attached to the tow vehicle. This allows ME to control what the trailer brakes are doing should this ever happen. In simple terms, the emergency cable should only activate the emergency braking switch if the distance between the trailer and the tow vehicle becomes greater than what it could with the safety chains pulled to full length. The way I keep the emergency cable and the trailer power cable from getting fowled in any part of the hitch is to clip them both inside the loop of the wire bale of the coupler lock pin. This will keep them from ever being pinched during sharp turns, etc.
Sorry Scott, I'm a little confused by your comment. If the hitch fails, as you say, or comes off the truck, the safety chains are NOT keeping your trailer connected to the truck because they are connected to the hitch as well. Do you understand? if the hitch comes off, so does the part where your chains are connected to the hitch, and having the brake activated could prevent the trailer from running though the back of your truck. I might be misunderstand your comment, please clarify if what I'm reading is not what youre saying. Thanks Scott.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS The "Hitch" is the system of components that are from the receiver socket aft. If anyone with any engineering sense was concerned about the vehicle "receiver hitch" coming detached from the vehicle, with the highly regulated society we live in, there would be laws requiring even the safety chains to be directly connected to the vehicle frame. That is not the case, because it is not a problem. The safety chains are for a failure of the hitching "system".
i understand what you're saying, and actually agree with not being worried about my hitch receiver coming off, but I'm still not sure what you're saying is the downside to connecting the cable to the frame. It will pull with any normal failure just as it would if connected to the eyelet, plus it will pull if the hitch becomes disconnected. I'm just confused, not arguing, on what you're saying.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS You said there are two important things to follow, regardless of where you decided to connect the end of the cable (I see no problem with connecting it to the frame of the tow vehicle if that makes you feel better).... For one of them you said the activation cable should be shorter than the chains so that the brakes go into emergency activation mode before the chains become tight. This is what I think is wrong and bad advice. As I said above, the emergency brakes should never activate unless the trailer has fully disconnected from the tow vehicle. I believe this is why the cable is typically quite long which is what gives you enough length to connect it to the tow vehicle frame, when it is really only meant to reach to the safety chain connection point on the vehicles receiver hitch.
i get what you're saying now... personally, id rather the trailer brakes activate if it comes off the ball for this one reason: if the chains catch the tongue, you may not even know its been disconnected. you also still have the chance of the trailer running through the back of the truck if it becomes disconnected. thanks for your input and for watching Scott. Something definitely to note.
I remember when a friend of mine neglected to ensure that he had inserted the reciever lock bar for his hitch when connecting his new trailer. He managed to leave the resort, pull out onto the hiway and make it almost a 1/2 mile before the hitch and trailer said 'bye bye'. Guess where the saftey brake cable was also connected? Fotunately, everything managed to gently roll/slide/coast to a stop in the lane and after some embarasment, was correctly attached and the rest of the trip was much less eventful.
Great video! You can never go wrong learning more or refreshing on things you already know. You do a great job with your videos. I have a Ross playlist that I use to reference. Keep it up and thank you for putting these together!
Ross, another awesome video. I just installed air lifters on my Chevy Colorado for leveling our Forest River Wolf Pup because the back of the truck seemed like it was dropping too much on hook-up. The air bags work perfectly, BUT I would love to see a video on the right way to set them; i.e., do I want to maintain the level of the truck when nothing is connected? Do I want it to drop a little? On our last trip up I-94 in Michigan, they have this godawful concrete pavement that is "sculpted" so each section dips in the middle and rises toward the expansion joints. We both felt like our heads would snap off from the bouncing.
I use a coiled e brake cable it doesn't fall down and it will not bind. I hook it to an eye bolt on the bumper of the tow vehicle. Thanks for your information on this subject. First class all the way..
thanks Vernon, going to actually release a follow up since this video got so many view and questions... I think I might go the route of the coiled cable to a license plate eyebolt too... going to the frame under the truck works fine, but if i dont have to crawl underneath it would be easier and accomplishing the same thing.
When connecting to tow vehicle I was always taught to put one safety chain clasp "over " passenger side and one "under " drivers side incase trailer breaks free from hitch jamming up under your bumper when breaking potentially breaking free from the clip lever..and especially if theres only one safety chain on a trailer to always put towards passenger side so in the event of a break free from hitch, trailer will pull towards passenger side instead of on coming traffic side avoiding a possible collision. Via the Commercial Drivers License handbook rules for CDL test..
Thanks for sharing Craig, however I dont know of any RV manufacturer outfitting the trailer with 1 chain. The regulations vary depending on the state, some states require at least one, many require 2 chains. And because these are moving from state to state, thats probably why they all come with 2 chains.
Something I have ran in to ok checking lights on the trailer. There a vehicles that use a different circuit path or module between the hazard switch and the turn signal switch. The hazards will work but turn signals won't.
I completely remove my shore power cable and water lines BEFORE starting this entire process. You really don't want that kind of voltage or water pressure in the mix when you're shifting things around. If, for example, the trailer shifts and severs your shore power line, you now have a major electrical hazard.
The meat (strongest point of the hook) is the reason I agree with you. Hooks should always come from the underside of the hitch receiver hook loops always. Because, if you if you ever end up pulling a trailer by the chains (hooks, hopefully never) then you're pull from the strongest part if the hook not the weakest ... For almost any hook, a great way to know which way the hooks gets seated is if you think of yourself doing a pull up from Strap, chain, rope, whatever perspective .. these become your forearms .. which way do you want your hands (hooks) when you go to pull yourself up? sure you can do it either way but ... thats not the question, question is .. which way is safest? So again, I agree with you ... I just hope this explanation helps others to agree with you..
Got to the RV storage today and there was a couple with the tongue jack of their travel trailer on the ground, I asked if they needed any help, he said no, he was waiting for someone to come with a jack. He said rookie mistake, he forgot to put the locking pin in. Fortunately it was only a few feet out of his storage spot and had no damage. Too bad he didn’t see this video
I think the reason people are still twisting their safety chains is because manuals straight from the manufacturer actually still recommend it! In my Coachmen Apex Nano Owner’s Guide it says “If the chains are too long, simply twist them until the desired link is obtained.”
NEVER let anyone else between vehicle and trailer during moving,coupling and uncoupling. Last thing... ALWAYS last. Remove wheel chocks. Nothing like having a trailer roll out of your campsite 😳 Also, I wrap a small bungee cord around the chains and hook it onto the trailer hitch frame to keep chains high enough to keep them from snagging anything.
the goal here is to check the bulb filaments... you can definitely check light switches individually, but I don’t see the need to continuously check your trucks light outputs. Once they are wired, they are wired. Just like check to see if your left turn signal works your left lights in the truck. Good idea in theory, but unless something is rewired, it’s unlikely going to flip around.
Sometimes the hitch lock can bind because of rust on the ball and/or the plate that slides under the ball, don't grind material off either obviously, but smoothing out the rough rusty stuff can make a difference in how easily your hitch lock binds. I've also heard (but am unsure) that if the angle of the hitch is too extreme (like if the trailers flat but the trucks on a hill) that the lock wont slide under the ball easily. Unfortunately those locks are far easier to disengage than to engage.
Really great and very detailed video! Do you have any videos on adding an amplifier to a Toyhauler? I am very interested in doing this but need some guidance as the 12V wire run to power an amp would be pretty long. Would be really interested on your ideas and advice on ways to do this. Thanks for the great video!
One thing I like to do once I lower hitch onto ball and close latch I try jacking up trailer to assure it is intact locked to ball. Back of tow vehicle raises up then I’m locked.
one thing I noticed you did not mention about the hook. yes the "direction of travel on the back" but you are putting the load on the "throat" of the hook or the strongest part of the hook. the other way you had it "the wrong way" is called tip loading and derates the hook and the weakest part of the hook. this I found out is only really thought in rigging courses, as a heavy equipment operator, I had to do a basic rigging course and this was one of the main points drilled into our heads, at the college I went to here in canada.
glad to see your paying attention, I thought about mentioning this as another reason to connect from underneath while filiming the video, but decided to take it out. once the chains are activated, they are going to pull straight back on the hooks, and since the angle of the chain wont change reagardless of how the hook is connected, the throat of the hook will pull against the eyelet in both scenarios. thanks for the info and for watching!
I always ensure my truck is turned off before connecting my trailer cable. For some reason if the truck is on when I connect, it does not transmit lights or brake signal to the trailer. I have to turn the truck off, pull the plug, put it back in and restart the truck. 2014 Sierra, 2016 GD Imagine.
Hook the breakaway cable to a part of the truck not the hitch. That way if the hitch itself comes loose you still activate the trailer brakes. This would be a DOT inspection failure if hooked to the hitch.
What if your chains are too short to cross without rubbing on the bottom of the trailer hitch? We just got the hitch at the dealer and everything you say don’t do, they did🤦🏻♀️. Would you have them shorten the emergency break line or just do it yourself? Every time I questioned something I was told I was wrong. The break line is twisted in the chain, they did not cross the chains as “they would rub the bottom of the hitch” and finally he hooked the break line to the hook of the chain. I just walked away. Now do you back up with the sway bars in tact or off? This was a “hitch expert” Thank you We also have the exact same hitch as you.
if they are too short to cross, you just dont cross them. personally I would have new chains welded to the tongue that I could cross, but theres an expense to that. you can shorten the brake cable yourself, but I have a new video coming that talks about that so hang tight. if the brake cable is run through the chain, it has a chance to break. this is a definite no-no.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thank you. I have informed the dealership and they are going to retrain their employees. They assured me this will be fixed. They also said they will fix our chains😊. We did not take possession due to them needing to fix things found at inspection.
there are mixed reviews on the Blue Ox Sway Pro hitch. some love it, others dont. personally, with a 1 ton and a 27' trailer, I have never had a problem with sway, fishtailing or porpoising. It has towed like a dream for 8 years now, not to say I wont look at others when we get the new RV, but personally I love it. What's your favorite hitch?
If the chains are mounted at the same point, then crossing them will likely have zero benefit; there is nothing stopping the chain deciding on it's own where it will cross, most likely right at it's mount point.
i wont disagree you dont get much of an X if they connect at the same point, but as mentioned in the video, its giving you a chance and its better than not doing it. there's no benefit to not doing it.
@@f2cmadmaxx if you really want a cradle, why not add a cross chain with some locking links so there really is a support chain at a good point. Wow this might be an idea for a new product....
another tip: be in the habit of completely hooking up or uhooking the trailer. if you just drop it on the hitch and leave the rest disconnected to move it around your yard, you may just drop it on the hitch and try to pull it down the road some day.
Excellent points! I do have one question/though...when using my tongue jack to lift the truck 2 to 3 inches, its causing higher current thru the switch and charging the tongue jack switch contacts so once a year I have to disassemble the switch and take a finger nail file to the contacts. Am I doing something wrong or is this a common issue? Or should I replace switch with a higher current capacity switch?
Make sure your power cord has enough slack for sharp turns. I used to wrap the cord around the tongue so it wouldn't drag on the ground but wrapping it too tight will cause it to be pulled from the plug on sharp turns losing the trailers lights. Been there. Done that.
Luckily in 8 years with many sharp turns it seems mine is just the right length from the factory. Thanks for sharing Kenny, hope you got it all worked out.
That’s not necessarily true Carl… there are very different opinions on this. The RVTI states it should be longer than the chains, so that you continue to have control of the brakes from the truck should it come unhitched. This method engages the brake cable only of the chains fail. There’s no law on which length is right, so I think it’s a personal preference, instead the law only states you just need a brake cable connected. it is something I am going to cover in a future video.
I would add one thing, now this could just be my jurisdiction, BUT I had a commercial enforcement officer tell me that you should slide the locking pin for the toung across from drivers side towards passenger side. The reason behind this being that IF the lock on the pin fails open, the way the road is sloped towards the ditch for rain drainage it wall pull with gravity so its resting on the head of the pin not just sliding backwards and out of the hole
very interesting idea.... i would go with it! its a very slight possibility, but even if theres a .001% chance and theres no downside to doing it, then do it! Thanks for sharing. Another thing is some people choose to use a padlock instead... I can see both good and bad with that as well. more to come.
100% agreed, slightly safer for even a slight change in what you already have to do is always worth it! But yeah I went to a lock as well, then its an extra step of protection when parked too!
Just wondering i have a 2008, 30’ travel tonight i hooked up as usual but my running lights didn’t stay on due corrosion, can i put anything on the connection point to keep from this happening again. I had to pull over right at dusk and clean the contacts points. Maybe dielectric grease or something like that but not sure what I can use?
Crossing the tow chains is not only a good idea, in some states it’s a legal requirement. I know it is here in Montana, and I believe also in Wyoming and Minnesota at least.
I've always wondered if I should be connecting the 7 pin when the vehicle is off or is it ok that the vehicle is running. I try to make a habit of shutting the truck off before connecting.
same principle of turning off breakers before unhooking shore power I guess... probably wont matter because the voltage is so low, but I would guess turning off the truck first would be "technically" correct.
I am having a hard time finding info on porpoising and what I need to do to ensure I'm towing properly. I have a new 2024 GMC 2500 HD Denali Ultimate. My understanding is that it's equivalent to a one ton since it has the towing package. I haul a Venture Touring with a hitch weight of 1250 lbs. with a total of 9000 lbs. My weight distribution hitch is rated for 1400/14000. I had some porpoising on my last trip. Help someone??
This video isnt really about setting up your hitch or sway bars, its about connecting the truck to the trailer. Your hitch should already be installed, and you should be using the same link every time. The bars should be close to parallel with the frame once connected, hope that helps.
I was told by what I would consider a very reliable source to have your vehicle in neutral, for much of the hook up process. Said you're pulling horribly on the vehicles transmission when in Park with the E brake on. That there's incredible torque on your transmission in the hook up process. That being in neutral takes that issue away. Complete newbie. I've only had 5 trips so 10 hookups total. Let me know if I'm missing something. The way I've been looking at it, is I'm hooking it up floating so to speak. Compared to locked in with high toque, possibly pulling on my transmission. Love to hear your/peoples opinion on this
The parking pawl locks your transmission. There’s more torque on your transmission when you are pulling the trailer up a hill. PLEASE, for the love of God, please don’t hook up in neutral. You’re going to KILL someone when your truck and trailer rolls away.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS first off captain obvious. Yes of course there is more torque on your tranny when pulling uphill. Secondly it's in neutral once the hitch is locked down. Let's not be a drama queen alright
You asked for answers, I gave you one, and you’re calling me “captain obvious.” That’s a clear sign your “question” is a joke. Because I don’t want people who are here to learn to get hurt or killed, I’m going to delete your comment. If you ask for answers, get them, and then decide to respond with an ignorant comment, there is no need for you comment in the first place. I hope you find what you’re looking for.
@@grantdevries8648 you’re source is an idiot nothing is pulling or pushing on your trans when the RV is chocked. omg I can’t stop laughing torque on your truck transmission better get your advice elsewhere bro
I'm confused, I thought it was a pretty good idea to remove the power cable before plugging the rv into the truck (never thought of that), but when you were testing the running lights of your rv, your power cable was hooked up to your rv? So, should someone remove the power cable or not?
Why is the hitch and ball extended by a foot or more? Does that type of hitch carry more weight? Sorry, looking to buy my first travel trailer and trying to learn. Great video! First time watching your channel.
