I guess the author hasn't heard of galvanic corrosion. If you have an aluminum seat post and a steel frame, you must put grease the seat post, or those two components will eventually be one permanently. I used to paint bicycle frames the only way to remove the seat post was to drill them out with a very large drill. Grease in this instance will prevent galvanic corrosion with steel frames and aluminum seat posts.
@@ivanoxx Common enough that my bike has got this arrangement. It's a low-end bike, but not a department store bike, so they upgrade the seat post from steel to aluminium. Also, most steel touring bicycles will likely have an aluminium (not carbon) seat post.
Always grease your seatpost. If you have a carbon bike or seat post then you need to use special carbon paste. If you don't, you're going to have problems with your seat basically getting "welded" to the frame. I've always greased my seat posts and have never had an issue with the seat slipping.
I know a guy who put oil on his disc brakes to fix them and to stop them squealing. He was not very happy with the result and asked me for help: He told me that the guy at the bike shop would have advised to put mineral oil on the brakes (probably meant bleeding them). So he went ahead and placed his pads and rotors in an oil-bath. I had a good laugh out of it because his brakes kept squealing and smelling of oil for months.
What you should do is fit your seat post at the height it suits you, then remove the post and lightly grease the post below the point where it clamps. Otherwise it becomes welded to the frame over time. My winter bike has a stuck seat post because I didn't grease it.
You absolutely need to put grease where the seat post goes into the seat tube if you don't your seat post will seeze into your frame. This happened to a good friend of mine and he had to destroy the seat post to get it out of the frame. Assembly compound is only needed in situations where there is carbon fiber involved and it is a grease that has grit in it to keep the carbon part from slipping
on steel framed bikes a very thin layer of grease will help prevent the seat post from seizing into the frame,same with aluminium bar stems in steel forks (galvanic corrosion)
Guoenyi i have always greased the seat tube. It is very bad advice not to. If you use aluminium seat tubes in a steel frame a phenomenon known as salt welding can occur due to the dissimilar materials reacting to water percolating down the seat tube. I have seen many a beautiful Campagnolo road frame trashed in this way as aluminium will swell as it oxidises and jam in the down tube with a vice like grip. Sometimes you can bore it out in a machine shop or warm the seat tube enough with a heat gun to spin the frame off the post with the seat pillar clamped in a vice. Grease well with superfine lithium grease and use a strong steel seat clamp and you will be golden.
Charles Eye good advice there. I have never used carbon on carbon as i tend to fettle old school bikes. If you have ever off roaded or X countried with no guards you will appreciate the extra weather proofing lithium grease gives. Obviously this is not suitable for all applications. I apologise for my ignorance on new materials techology but greasing has been standard workshop practice on aluminium/steel combos for many years.
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As a mechanic, PLEASE GREASE YOUR SEATPOST! I don't want to be the one to tell you that your seat post has fused to your tube and it'll cost you an arm and a leg to get it out. Also - check for your seat post / frame combination. Carbon needs special paste, not grease.
I have never had a seat post slip because of grease, but I have had countless seized seat posts due to lack of grease. I don't know where he got the idea that you are not supposed to grease the seat post.
I have creaking seatpost, after searching a bit I realized that the seatpost has dried up and needs greasing. But now new confusion arises, what type of grease? Plenty of bike tech gurus say this for that, and that for this. Ended up keep riding with dried creaking seatpost. Still not able to figure out if there is any single all rounder kind of greases which can be used on every part of the bike which are meant for greasing? Don't want to end up in the confusing mess of different types of greases.
@@OasisExplorer aluminum frame on aluminum regular bike Grease carbon on anything use carbon paist. Also a creaking seatpost is probably due to a other issue not lack off Grease make Shure you have at least 6cm of seat post in your seat tube.
Thanks, So whats that copper paste is for? Many people people recommend using that copper paste on areas like seat post etc. I would be happy if I can use all rounder type of grease on my aluminium bike.
I suppose you've never encountered a seized seat tube... when you do you'll wish there was a bit greace in there. In bike shops the mechanics prepare the bike for the worst case scenario and do not want the bike to come back five years later with a seat tube that's welded inside the frame.
I greas my seat tube all the time. and I have a friend that didn't and after 2years he moved it so ofter that he could not clamp it anymore.... so allways gears the seat tube (exept carbon frames)
just pour some diesel on it (works better than wd40), leave it overnight/ couple of hours and just whack it with a mallet and then dremel the inside of the bike tube for any rust burs, easy though yeh grease is good
hmm grease on a seat post does help from getting stuck posts and carbon paste for carbon seatpost. without it on a carbon post in a alloy or other metal frames you can get galvonic corrosion. I have also never had a problem with a light coat of grease on a metal post in a metal frame causing it slip. but I have seen plenty of stuck posts that had no grease
I am riding on a 55 year old bike (build in 1963/1964) It has a closed chainguard and the chain only has been renewed this year and it is in grease at the moment. Got a new rear and front cog wheel too. So no sand is getting in, or gas gotten in over the years
Only reason they used grease in a seat tube was to prevent the seat post from rusting in place on a steel frame and steal seat tube. Also with steel frames and aluminum seat posts, moisture can literally weld the aluminum to the steel. So always grease steel seat tubes. You don't need a heavy bearing grease, just an assembly or lithium grease would work. Carbon and titanium products are very different stories.
As a mechanic i can tell that you can't say that that grease in general is bad for the clamping of your seat post. It depends on what seatpost you are using with wich frame. Just look it up in the manufactures manual to be sure. Some will seatposts will slip down but some just need cabonpaste or normal grease so not seize to the frame in no time.
Im greasing my seat post and no it wont slide down , that clamp has enough power to hold a car and not moving from the frame :) It's a bad advice not to grease the seatpost .
Hi! I learned allot where to use Grease and where to use lube. Also, learned not to touch the disc break disc. Now Isearch to find out how to clean break disc. Thanks
Always grease your seat post, unless it is carbon seat post or folding bike (Brompton or so). I've seen many of seized seat posts, we were removing seized seat post with 2 other mechanics, while two of us were twisting with the whole bike with seat post in a vice and the third one was using a heat gun to expand the steel frame. Trust me, you don't want to deal with seized seat posts. The right process how to install seat post is to clean the seat tube (inside of the frame) with some sort of rotating brush, rug, or even check it with a finger for pieces of sand or metal (you don't want to have scratches on your especially black seat post). You can file or sandpaper some sharp edges from inside of the frame seat tube. Then apply a thin layer of grease around 2-3 inches deep inside of the frame. Install the seat post, tight down the bolt or quick release on the seat collar - make it tight and you won't notice any sliding or movement at all. I've never seen cracked steel or aluminum frame or seat post from overtightening it. Yes, some people using wrong diameters of seat post which does not fit the seat tube in a frame or even wrong size of seat post collar. But if everything is installed correctly, grease won't make the seat post slide. With carbon seat posts it's different story, definitely use adhesive paste instead of grease. Seat post collar has to be tightened with torque wrench only on accurate Nm. I've seen carbon seat posts cracked because of overtightening them. Never grease carbon seat posts and use some adhesive stuff. The only bikes where is no grease or adhesive needed are folding bikes.
I have an exception to "no grease on the seat post": I actually had to grease the bottom tip of my seat post to make it stop creaking against the inside of the frame when pedalling hard. But yes, that's a special case, probably due to sloppy tolerances in my bike frame. Just thought I'd mention it. 🙂
i greased the chain on my new bicycle with siliconic grease just for fun, i was waiting for ptfe spray ordered online. its not that hard to be removed of the chain, its hard to be removed of the gears. the weather since then wasnt dry as i expected (to use ptfe spray) so i use Force oil.
I strongly disagree with not putting grease on the seat post it's very common for a seat post to freeze up into the frame sometimes even welding it's self to the frame with certain materials due to a chemical reaction.i have worked at a bike shop for more then a decade and it's insane the number of people that destroyed a seat post or even worse their frame because of it
As a mechanic in the LBS here in the coast of Norway where we have long dark cold winters with allot of rough weather, and lot's and lot's of road salts on the road sometime turning snow into thick slush being sprayed everywhere, you better grease your seatpost good, my boss with over 40 years of wrenching experience said and does the same thing, we have so many people coming over with wedged seatposts that are wedged in the frame, what sickbiker said is a disaster waiting to happen if you have certain types of materials together.
I have gotten by pretty well just by feel and common sense. However this gives the correct order you do the steps and I'm sure that makes the adjustments more accurate.
Grease on the seatpost keeps the seatpost from getting welded into the frame. Carbon on aluminum results in galvanic corrosion, aluminum in aluminum also needs a barrier to separate the materials.
Never grease carbon parts! You will never get a tight fix again. There are special pastes with plastic particles to increase friction for carbon parts. I have been using this one for many years with good results: www.bike-components.de/en/Dynamic/Assembly-Paste-with-Micropearls-p12414/
@ Mike sorry for clicking 'thumb up' -- your method is right for steel frame and alu post; there a very very thin layer of grease can prevent galvanic 'welding' (but still it is better to open and clean by time). Carbon is resin with carbon fibers inside, and resin is hardened oil, after all (keeping it simple). So, oil or grease will soften resin and make the material weak. Yes, motor oil is sold in plastic cans, but not for storing very long. If you find a 10 years old plastic oil can in a cellar or a garage, it will stand in a puddle of leaked oil.
Thanks for the advice about the seat tube. Other videos I've seen says to grease it and my post slips every time I ride. I've even changed my seat post clamp twice to try to fix this. I won't do it any more.
madched if you have a carbon frame you can use a special carbon paste that works fantastically other aluminum I have always smeared a little to prevent it from seizing and it has never slipped
My new bike came with a thin layer of grease on the seatpost. A previous bike I had that did not have the seatpost greased is extremely rusty and difficult to remove. I think the message here should be that a thin layer of grease is recommended, but don't overdo it
Advice: sometimes the seat stem starts to produce cracking sounds each pedal turn. If so it´s unavoidable to use some grease there. I have an MTB that´s totally hopeless. I finally found that an additional hose clamp beneath the regular clamp helps to give the required firmness when grease is applied.
Thanks Henrik, I'd use the assembly paste, instead of a grease in that case, and what you mean by the "additional hose clamp"? For sharing your cycling moments join our group facebook.com/groups/sickbiker/requests/ For getting help and halping other join our forum.sickbiker.com/ :)
ALWAYS grease the seat tube. On carbon frames specific assembly paste is used, it is still a form of grease. Also, the wet lube you show in the video picks up as much grit as grease (I use the same stuff) so be prepared to degrease and clean the drivetrain regularly.
It really depends on your conditions. Wet lube isn't washed off by rain, splashes or streams so easily, so if you ride regularly through these then much longer. If you ride in very dry , dusty or sandy conditions, there will be no advantage as you'll pick up grit faster.
For some reason my Specialized Rockhopper came with the seat post greased. When I removed the seat post there was some green color sticky grease on it. But it doesn't slide down.
You should always grease your seatpost on any frame. This stops your seatpost from getting corroded and stuck over time. You can also use carbon paste which is the same as the orange paste he was using.
Anyone watching these videos should really take his "facts" with a grain of salt. Essentially the seatpost bit is correct, but if you have a steel framed bike you BETTER put grease in there or you will likely never be able to remove the seatpost again without resorting to extreme measures. Just like in the video where he has his carbon road bike clamped into the workstand by the toptube, SickBiker has some useful tips but displays a shocking lack of knowledge for someone who has taken it upon himself to give cycling advice on RU-vid.
Right on! Another: He talks about keeping grease off the brakes rotors, but does not point out the important fact to use thread lock not grease on the rotor bolts. Heat from the rotor can cause the grease to melt and spin out on to the rotors.
This is why I've moded both of my tyres to run on transmittion oil so no greasing up or anything just replace the oil every three years and you are golden...btw if you are wondering I'am using type120 super heavyduty buldozer oil..I'also live jn Europe.
Same here. I always grease the aluminium seat-post on my steel bikes and I've done this for as long as I can remember. This prevents the seat-post from seizing.
I've never had a problem with a small amount of anti seize on the seat post, they can seize up within a matter of months otherwise, certainly in U.K conditions.
The last chain I greased and removed the excess so it was on the chain only lasted 10 years and never snapped. I live by the sea and ride along the beach quite often and only rinse off the sand with a pump up spray bottle, the chain was shimano hyperglide!
My grandpa did same thing with his chain and it lasted some 30-40 years (no chain guard). For most of the conditions we ride in having a clean, slippy from the outside chain is the best practice though.
I've heard that it's okay to grease steel/aluminum seat post.. Because metal on metal contact (between seat post and seat tube) already has a lot of friction. But greasing carbon seat post is a big NO. Agree with you on not greasing the drivetrain, doing so will certainly ruin it
I used to put grease on my bmx chain way back in the 90s. I had that mistake putting it on my mtb drivetrain and i needed to remove the chain, chainring and cassette and clean it with powerwasher and soap.
I’ve been greasing seatposts for years with 1000’s of miles, no problems with posts slipping and never damaged anything. And stuck posts are a nightmare.
Oh my god.. I’ve been working in the garage since I was 10 years old (diesel mechanic today) and still to this day I have to stop myself from tasting the grease!! LOL
Do you suggest using anti seize on the seat post I have been assembling bikes for nearly a yr now and it is part of the assembly procedure and with emphasis on the carbide seat post
Wash or at least degrease your chain and gears to keep your bike in good order. I pressure wash mine once a month, and never use oil, but will use some white spirits to get it sparkling. Never had any problems.
Fiber grip on the seat post is the way to go - even if you have alloy frame and seat post. It will prevent the seat post from seizing and will actually add more friction to prevent slipping.
Instead of that tiny pack of stuff for the seat post tube you should pick up a tube of valve grinding compound. Works great and is water soluble. I Also use it on Phillips and other screwdriver tips. Never have a driver slip again!
I use pure silicone spray on my mountain bike used for light trail use and has lasted two thousand miles and now needs replacement. i cleaned the chain around once a week and only took the worst of the dirt off.
Just got a new SixThreeZero "Around the Block" 21 speed Cruiser bike and the directions say to grease the seat post. Want to read & hear all I can before I start assembling the bike. Thanks !!
I used to think chains and gears last forver, and only wear out when they are visibly worn away, which I could not see happening as they have pretty chunky parts. My trek 730 hybrid went 17 years on the same chain, cassette, and chainring without any problems, except I had to occasionally adjust the gears. I was surprised when the bike shop said my drivetrain was worn out, after I was unable to adjust the gears anymore.
I better add that I only did about 50 miles a week. On my new Trek Fx4 sport I cycle about 2 to 3 hours a day and I have to change my chains fairly regularly now.
My boss that have wrenched bikes for over 40 years told me to use grease, so i do, i work in the LBS, it's common sense to do it, none of our customers or me or anyone as far as i'm concerned ever complained about slipping seatpost, not saying that this issues can't be found on some bikes, but it's purely subjective to how much one weight to which material the frame is made of etc etc, i disagree with sickbiker on this one, here in Norway where we have allot of weather and slushy roads with salt, trust me you wanna grease the heck out of your bike and keep the crap out, and use marine grease which is meant for marine applications, it holds way better, been riding like this for years with zero issues.
And lastly how to protect newly bougt alloy frame mrp from scratches and erosion to great extent. Like applying vinyls stickers would stop erosion? If we clean alloy frame with soapy water and wipe it out completely with microfiber cloth can it cause erosion? Thanks.
Likely dumb question but... I was going winter riding and I knew it would be kind of like going through Rivers so I put lots of chain lube on and did not wipe it off before my ride. My bike was getting so caked in snow ice and mud that even my derailleur stopped shifting but it was loads of fun. It took me 20 minutes to hose the stuff off my bike and then I hung it up. Even though my chain had too much Lube on it, after I pulled my bike down again, my chain was rusty. What did I do wrong? And yes, I bet there are going to be lots of dumb answers such as going out riding in those conditions. No, those conditions were so much fun I was really sad when I thought the winter riding weather was over.
When you hose it off. Then dry your bike and what I found is use a towel on the chain, run it through multiple times until lube is no longer coming off then spray on some water displacer and repeat the steps of running it through a towel as more will come off. Finally apply appropriate amount of lube, shift through the gears and wipe off any excess
D'oh! You hose off your bike and then DRY IT! I let it drip dry. That explains the rust. To be honest, I don't know if I would have been able to dry it off after hosing it from the winter riding - the water on the ground was freezing and getting slippery and my toes were at risk of frost-bite. But now I know.... I feel really dumb now... Thanks for answering.
Grease that is used on a seatpost is a teflon grease or similar. It's used to stop the seatpost seizing in the tube. Using a torque wrench I've never had an issue.
I get you now :) My current bike is a Kona Sutra chromoloy frame and forks with steel seat post, bars etc. My other bike is an old Merida alloy mtb. I do the same with it, everything works and holds how it should.
He's right that if you take your seatpost out once a year it probably won't seize up in the frame. But greasing seatposts is a good idea esp on non enthusiast's bikes because there's good chance that seatpost won't be moved for years and a thin layer of grease will help prevent any seizing. And as long as there isn't anything wrong with the fittings or frame you should have no problems with slippage.
Really depends on what material your bike is made out of. If it's carbon, using regular grease on your seatpost will ruin your bike but instead use something like carbon paste.
@@peterjv8748 Honestly as carbon bikes and components are becoming more affordable and as the actual market range for such bikes is ever expanding, I feel like we'll see an even bigger boom in the carbon bike market. At that point, it'll probably become important for people to understand that carbon is very different from regular alloys.
So not on the chain, seatpost tube and brake rotors. Sounds obvious, although I don't think it's really bad for non carbon seatposts. Actually I don't see much use for that kind of grease except on bearings (wheels/pedals) , bottom bracket(inner side, not the screw on part) and as someone advised it , the outer side of the brake pads (disc) . Also the removable axes of the wheels do well with a (obviously) thin layer of it now and then. Some use it to prevent screws and bolts to get stuck and hard to get out, but then the white assembly grease is much better, as those bolts need to keep things "assembled" of course while riding and not getting looser.
Thinksky29777 FTw I have had a Costumer come in saying that they put oil on their brake pads because their brakes were squeaking. We spent an hour and a half sanding their rims an brake pads to get them to work.
throwaway potato i good trick i have heard is to put oil contaminated rotor pads into a metal tray and set them on fire with methylated spirit. The intense heat will burn off the oil residue without damaging the pad. This hack will only work with sintered metal pads. I believe synthetic ones can be damaged like this.
A viable alternative to the friction paste for the aluminum or steel (not carbon!!!) seat post is just a regular toothpaste. It adds friction due to the presence of some microabrasive particles and is still good enough not to let the post seize in the frame and it prevents the sand from coming into the tube and creating the creaking noise. Although, cleaning the post and the tube once a year is a must, especially in case of using the toothpaste as it will dry out and create too much friction, preventing the quick and easy removal of the post.
Ive tried to clean the grease off my chain and drivetrain and I can get it clean I never greased my chain but I think the guy I bought the bike from did.
Subscribe to pewdiepie I do use lube but I as asking if there's a way to get the grease off my whole drivetrain(chain, drive train front chainring, and derailleur)
I have an entry level MTB bike... My FD, RD, and rear brake cable is routed outside the frame... Its exposed, it became yellow rust... How to maintain my cable
