Your superb update will help owners to take extra precautions and will improve the knowledge base for new builders too! Your camper is in excellent condition for it's life and travels, a tribute to the design and to the quality of your build! Your storage drawer unit is simply outstanding! This gorgeous trailer just gets better as you learn what works for you.
I love when people do updated reviews down the line - these days one of the most important factors in buying any product is seeing its longevity or quirks that get discovered along the way! Great vid.
Thanks so much for this thorough and thoughtful review. Your recommendations for all the components is so helpful. We are hoping to embark on our own adventures with DIY teardrop campers and find your thoughts so helpful. Happy trails and maybe we will bump into y’all on the road!
For your LED strip lights and weatherstrip you should try "trim adhesive". It's available at any auto parts store and is used to hold emblems on cars. I've had very good results with it.
Patrick, I watched all of your build videos and they helped inspire me to build one. I started with one of CLC's tandem decked canoes and felt I had enough experience to build their camper. These have been the best, most satisfying projects I've done. I finished mine just one year ago. Covid and Oregon fires have kept us at home more than we wanted. I too wanted to put storage compartments under the camper but like you, I felt it would put my galley flat too high to be comfortable. I designed and custom built my own steel trailer with Timbren Off-Road axel-less suspension because I wanted to do light overloading with it. Because I needed the ground clearance for off-road use, raising the camper even more was out of the question. Fortunately I pull it with a Tacoma with a Diamondback bed cover so I can carry all my camping gear securely in the bed of the truck. I did build a curved face clothes cabinet that I've mounted on the bulkhead above the shelf. This lets us keep enough clothes for several days, inside the sleeping area without opening a suitcase for clothes. I also put a small 5"x7" door through the bulkhead into the battery compartment.where I keep my Yeti 400 watt LI battery. I just open the door to reveal the control panel of the Yeti. It's very simple, elegant, and only weights 17 pounds. I love comparing notes on these builds because everyone does something different. I want to thank you for your contribution especially this 3 year review. If you ever make it to Bend Oregon, please get in touch. BTW, I really would love to build the sailing canoe like you and Fiona built and sailed from MD.
The little tailgate for the drawer box could be edge-capped with steel or stainless U shaped cap. I get it from my local steel yard. It keeps water out and protects the edge from chipping and de-lamination.
Patrick i followed you from the early days - you were a HUGE inspiration for me to explore more, help appreciate our seas/waters and also share content here on the tube. I saw you removed your old vids, the ones that drew me to your love for the water. It would be great if you could add these again or on another channel. Back on topic, i still love your teardrop camper man, its soo kool so thanks for the detailed vid!
You might get better success with adhesives if you scuff the surface first (can't remember if you did this during the original installation?) Outline with painters tape the path you want the adhesive to take (prevents leaving swirl marks where you don't want them), scuff with 200 grit until the surface is cloudy, clean with isopropyl alcohol, then apply your adhesive device.
Nice review. I did not read all comments, but two items stand out for me. Your weathered peeling near the edges of the doors is very likely due to the extreme edges you provided. We do lots of glass and carbon work, often over wood. Most composites do not like extremely sharp edges, so split over time. Routing the edges, when possible is a time tested resolution. (Prior to glassing) A bit hard to do on 1/4 inch ply. You can also double up the edges with an additional layer or two. Secondly...do not blame your "cheap" cover for tearing when you must work it over the sharp edges of your solar collectors. An expensive cover will tear as well. Consider an inexpensive guard to attach to the upper panel edges. We use flexible collectors for the simplicity and reliability. Maybe less wattage than you.
I love what Fiona did with the headliner! It's a really elegant solution. I would love to know if she stapled or sewed the material to the foam, and what kind of fabric she used!
Have you ever considered Aqua Seal? It’s a waterproof sealant / glue , people use for repairing wetsuits... im not sure what else. I created a mermaid tail from a wetsuit using it. I’m not sure if it’s industrial strength but may be worth looking into. I am actually almost to my funding goals for this teardrop! Ive had my eye on it for years already & surely saw your old video! I definitely want the underneath storage box but I’m going to have to call them bc I dont see the option currently on their website 😕 Thanks for sharing! Really good tips to help me hopefully avoid some of these issues in my build. Still Can’t even believe its finally happening sooner rather than later now.
Thanks for your unbiased, well experienced review ! For your bottom storage panels, why don't you wrap it in glass, like the rest of the camper's body, it's almost transparent so you can see the wood... That would help preserve those stickers just like bars do with the stickers and bottlecaps in resin for their bartops. The failure of the edges is partially due to the hard edges or corners where plywood was cut by saw edge (delaminating it a bit). Sanding or at least routering (cutting angle vs ply layers is zero relative vs 90 degrees of saw cut) would greatly soften the edge transitions and allow much better resin absorption (ps use thinned epoxy only coats on the entire panel until it STOPS absorbing it before glassing...) For cleaning the white plastic shower tank, try Spray 9, it kills mold as well as anything else (so use gloves). On the awning zippers, WD is oil based and attracts dirt, etc so try a dry lube... Elmer's (glue company) Slide All product is a dry white teflon base sprayed as a liquid and works better on everything (like your drawers) you can spray on zippers with some tape or cardboard shielding so it doesn't stain or "frost up" the fabric.
3M super weatherstrip adhesive will hold that weatherstripping on. I knew a guy that put a set of valve cover gaskets on a small block Chevrolet with it holding the gaskets on. He took the bolts out and ran it for about 10,000 miles like that just to see if it would hold, and it didn’t leak. I’ve used it on engine gaskets and weatherstripping and the only problem comes when you need to get it off.
Great Video! I'm a builder kinda guy. So far your tear drop I like the most. Your kitchen galley looks like it should be on a yatch! Idea about the "plywood edge problem." You could try ROUNDING the edges, before putting your clear-coat, or varnish
There is a body parts glue made for auto body shops that is strong and lasts for years. Talk to a body shop and see what they recommend or use for your seals and you will probably find a long term repair for your door seals...Dave
I went to UPull It and bought a pair of 14 alloy wheels from a Ford Ranger with tires rated for a higher speed and load. And you leave it outside? Hope it’s got insurance! I LOVE your galley!
Nice review of you camper. Love the design and your story! The hard corners will fail because the finish is usually thinner at that point due to the way paint flows when applied. Also because it is a hard corner there is more stress on the coating in that area and you will get micro-cracks which will eventually allow moisture to penetrate and lift the coating. “Water always wins”, unfortunately in the case of your wood finish! Good luck with you upgrades.
Cool idea on the cloth covers to the foam insulation! What's the fabric? And how is Fiona attaching the fabric to the insulation panels? More spray adhesive? In addition to looking great and taking care of the scuffs, the lighter color fabric will also brighten up the interior! Win-win-win!
I redid my headliner of my car, failed the first time and found out that i needed glue specifically for headliner; i think it has to do with the heat from the sun . id try that if the new glue doesnt work
Hi Patrick and Fiona, any updates on the fabric over the headliner, I’m at that point in my build and would like to cover mine - so I welcome suggestions on fabric and adhesive and anything else. Cheers Tom in Pittsburgh
Do yourself a favor and get the better cover. I had got the cheap ones for the boat and have gotten tired of replacing them every year. The trailer looks good though
Thanks Patrick this is great. I’m about halfway through my build and did get the ICC for underneath. I will pay special attention to the edges, and will epoxy on little blocks anywhere I might want to use screws. Quick question how did you fasten the cabin lights in the circular holes by the doors, I have similar lights but am concerned about screwing them in.
Hi Tom. I finished my CLC teardrop about a year ago. For the reading lights I epoxied little wood blocks inside the round hole. The way I did this was I just cut some one inch square stock about an inch long (or whatever depth the inside of the light is). I then screwed the blocks into the light housing. After that I put epoxy on the ends of the square stock where it will make contact with the wall of the camper and pressed the light into the round hole. After the epoxy cures you can just remove the screws and pull the light out of the mounting hole. Be very careful not to have too much epoxy "squeeze out". If it makes contact with the light housing you'll never get the light out. You might consider putting plastic packing tape on any surface of the inside of the light that could potentially get epoxy on it. If you want some pictures of what I've done and some of my mods, just send me a note with an email.
fantastic review I have found a product by International called Everdure to be very good for the end grains the wood seems to soak it up. I don't know if there are any of these in Australia but I would love one
Do you think using some fiberglass tape around the edges of the plywood would help stabilize them? In addition to the sharp corners, the flexing seems like it would be death on the epoxy.
I have wondered whether you could use the felt adhesive squares that you can buy from craft stores for the interior but they would not have a lot of insulative value.
We just sold ours (growing family), and it was in perfect shape. Having a covered space to store it when not in use helps care for the wood! Like a wooden boat, it should last a lifetime if well cared for.
Hello I live just 45minutes from this company I really would like to know dud you invest in the under storage fir tens skis Surf board or extra work gear I am intrested in Surf board for Florida and carrying my Vests for kiak? Thanks so much fir information It really helped tor my future After I finish school mire than Three years from now so happy with review and loved you mentioned camping jn November ,..I can visit friends maybe each year for Thanksgiving...Thusis a dream just to let you know I may jut buy Trailor by itself to trans port stuff. You made my Nught and week after I developed yet another food allergy ...Soy!After my surgery last month It is refreshing to see people enjoying life and working and enjoying the everyday journey if work life&work.Many Blessings to you all for sharing about food rain guard and inside panels !!! Ihave suffered for 26years with intense food and paint allergies after military service thanks for giving me hope!!
I want to install a 12v system in my 1979 Scamp. I want to add it to the current 110v system (which is what I have now.) I want to be able to charge the 12v system while sitting and driving. Can you tell me the estimated cost of all the materials required and the two Solar Panels. Thank you.
Warning : motorcycle aren't meant to tow anything. Any type of trailer can cause significant trailer sway causing an uncontrollable whipping effect. Imagine your rear end coming around you & the extra weight over loading your brakes. Ever give a fat person a piggy back ride ?
I loved your video when you build it. I was wondering what do you in the midlle of the night if it starts rainning with the top vent open, you cant closed it because you need air and you are surely getting water in the camper?
You've had to round over the edges more smoothly... any coating cracks on sharp edges... A little late sorry But it could be redone... with some effort
There is a physical effect in german called " Kantenflucht" something like edge loss in english... images.app.goo.gl/hZNZMisve48Dz83UA Surface tension bla bla bla wise guy bla bla Anyways is a sharp edge more fragile than a rounded one
May I gently suggest...you are disappointed by arious add-ons, and indicate that you are ready to discard them, never once drawing the conclusion that these are all complaints about the performance of glue in the Florida climate! How about simply screwing or stapling each of these items/systems into place? You admit that you liked the lighting from the leds, so...find a way to reattach them. You are disappointed with the products; I have to say, I am disappointed with your reasoning. Hellooo!
You mention your axle offers lots of clearance.... take a closer look, your frame is dented from the axle coming in direct contact! The axle has inadequate clearance and should be placed below the spring not on top of them. Also its hard to see clearly but the axle retaining Ubolts don't look correct/sufficient and the axle doesn't appear centered on the spring! sorry to be such a downer but i would deal with those issues soon. If your not sure take it to a professional spring shop for confirmation. Otherwise your trailer looks great.
@@Waterlust Ok as long as your aware of the contact and monitoring the frame damage, ideally getting a drop axle and reinstalling it under the springs would achieve the needed clearance and still leave the floor to ground clearance where it is now.
Leaf springs UNDER axle = LESS ground clearance LESS suspension travel Leaf springs OVER axle= MORE ground clearance MORE suspension travel simple physics Where axle is located on leaf springs front to back has NO effect on suspension, only wheel base.
