main dealer put it on computer and said it was turbo actuator told they only replace turbo and actuator as one, massive cost dont do it. I sent actuator off to premier diesel leicester ebay came back fine no problem so not that. seen this video got resistor off ebay less than three pounds, now fixed ! easy 5 minutes. get in. fuck main dealer prices dont know what they are doing.
I've just received this code and gone into limp mode. i need to order a blanking plate or resistor Will it harm it to drive whilst im in limp mode Kind regards
Thanks mate for putting this up. I have a 2010 GL350 that I tried this on. What did you do with the intake runner position sensors? I locked my swirl flaps open when I was doing the oil cooler job and plugged in a resistor and removed the swirl flap motor all together. My problem now is I get P2006 and P2007 codes for "intake manifold runner stuck closed" bank 1a and 2a. So how do you get rid of those? Disconnect the sensors or will that throw different codes?
Victor Sinclair hi mate when you removed the swirl flaps did you block the holes off ? If not this could be the trouble. Most people put small bolts in the holes they just screw in just put a bit of lock tight on them. These codes if you clear them do they come back ? Is your car in limp mode ?
@@davidmarlow2790 So I didn't remove the flaps. When I took out the motor, I locked the flaps in the full open position and stuck in the resistor. So right now I don't have any swirl flap motor codes, so I guess the resistor is working somewhat, but I do have a code for each side, P2006/2007 about the runners being stuck closed (go figure, they're actually stuck wide open).
Victor Sinclair I never. Took the motor out but my mate who did the oil seal did but they also took the rail that the flaps are on as well as the flaps Victor but taking the rail out leaves some hole where my mates have put small bolts in or even welded the holes then put it all back together without the flaps and rail of course mate
@@davidmarlow2790 I know some cars or years never had the intake runner position sensors, so the only thing you have to deal with is the plug into the swirl flap motor to do the mod you showed. But my question is for models that have the position sensors, what do people do? leave them plugged in or unplug them so the sensors don't read the runners are not moving?
I believe it should be a 4.7k ohms which equals to 4700 ohms which color bands should be Yellow-Violet-Red the forth band is to indicate tolerance which is not important
Hello David ! First , I am from Sweden so maybe the language can be some wrong.... I have a Cherokee 3,0 CRD 2006 with 160 000 km distance on it . The problem is that the engine OM 642 hesitate under 2000 rpm. I have had it to a real Jeep workshop wich have the right computer program for diagnosing the engine , they can´t find any problem when I have had it to them for 2 days just for diagnose work. Let me tell you the story : The car hesitate under 2000 rpm when I start from trafficlight , it feels like the electronic in the pedal fails but it doesnt , when I take off the MAP from the airintake everythings work very fine , but the yellow engine light comes up ofcourse and I am app. 50 hp loose from the original engine power. When I am driving at the highway at 50-55 mph around 1800 rpm the engine "sneezes" because the turbo actuator goes up and down several times and soon the red light bolt comes and then the "limp mode" , turn off the engine and start again everything is like before with the hesitating . The swirl motor has been adjusted like this video says . The MAP is new , the Turboboost sensor is new , the Airintakehose with seals is new and when I put everything together the "sneezing" starts over again. There are no leaks in the system so , it shpuld work together ... If .... My thoughts is about the swirl system , lets say they are in the middle of everything , half closed , half open . Can the hesitating comes therefor ? Please answer me so I can go further with the discussion with someone that understands the system. I have had this problem for a long time now , and I don´t know what to do , Jan from Sweden.
@@fishermansbuddy3785 no not yet , but it is ordered and coming to me week 29 . The problem was that I should have the G 219 model according to the mark at side on the actuator , I can write more in next week about it , when I have swap the actuator ...
@@69blueline Hi there Jan can you let me know what the fix was as mine is doing the exact same! as the car reaches 2krpm it judders and kangaroo's like a swine! takes a long time and persuasion to get past 2krpm then will drive fine once reaching 70 until you switch off and on again. i have EGR bypass and have replaced the turbo actuator, what fixed yours please as it sounds like we have the same problem
@@_wimza_7983 It never been fixed .... I got tired of it and sold the car , but however ,... My thoughts goes in the direction towards : The swirl flaps in the airintake was stucked because I find the regulation links was broken and I could not move the last link wich was going inside air intake and inside , to the swirl flaps , these links are made of plastic , and the workshop talks about 2000 - 3000 dollars for lifting the cylinderheads on this engine . And : these swirlflaps often get stucked because this cars doesn´t drives hard enough sometimes , so the oil grease inside gets hard as cocks and then the links for regulation of the flaps broken .... Sorry , ! This video doesn´t show any helps for this matter , I did everything it shows , but , nothing helps .
Is the oil cooler seal the real problem and the reason oil is getting into the air intake for the turbo, which in turn then leaks out onto the swirl motor ? Should there be any trace of oil when you take off the plastic intake from breathers etc ? I understand the repair, just can't get my head around the cause of the oil when the intake is removed on my Grand Cherokee.
Hi all i hav 300c 3l diesel and I hav one problem when i drive normal the car its drive smooth but when I accelerate to maximum and the car goes to 3000 rpm the car shakes like it's about to drown but it falls below 3000 it's all ok help thank
Hi bud thanks for the upload, can i just ask what the purpose is for this resister? You explained well that its to bypass swirlflaps but what is the benefit of this? Kind regards
Hi if the swirl flap stop working it puts the car in to limp mode To replace that part would cost anything up to £900 but if you put a resistor in it would only cost pence what it does make the ecu think its working taking it out of limp mode hope that helps
@@davidmarlow2790 thanks David, ive had my manifolds off too many times to mention, oil cooler seals was my favourite.. so if my swirls are fine and not causing any issues it wouldnt make sense for me to do this work around?
put this into google search you'll find the plug I found on ebay fitted this to the same OM642 engine on my Mercedes CLS 320 cdi ----> Mercedes Sprinter 3.0L Diesel OM642 swirl motor bypass / emulator / swirl plug
@@davidmarlow2790 had to do the same job today, didnt realise resistors are not fussy which way round they go. Wife says her car is actually more responsive than before the swirl motor went south. Car is fitted with RaceChip for 'economy' and achieves 34mpg on cruise.
@@merlin1346 yes I’ve just got my self a 300c from a garage it started off as £4495 I waited as he said there was a problem with it he then said it was down on power with engine light on so I offered him £1500 for it he said yes I went to Liverpool where it was paid him then put a resistor in and drove it all the way home with not one problem lol It’s a 2009 with only 72k miles one owner 😂😂
@@davidmarlow2790 the merc was intended for myself but when the wife clapped eyes on it I lost, I even left a Chevrolet spark with the guy as went to London to collect the merc on my own, life can so cruel lol.
Hello. Following your guide to bypass the swirl motor - I have got to the point where I have access to the swirl plug but I am unable to remove it from the motor! There is a small slider switch which moves up and down - tried pulling out the plug in both the down and up position but does not budge. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Allan Kerr hi mate have you took the small bracket off I think there is 3 star bolts if not that may be holding you if it’s already off it’s needs to be in up position use a small screw driver to prize it up even spray a bit off wd40 to lub it hope that helps Allan 👍
@@davidmarlow2790 Thanks for the quick reply. I have removed the bracket and have spent ages trying to remove the plug. At least I know now the slider has to be on the up position - will give it another try - will splash even more WD40 on it!!
@@davidmarlow2790 Hello again. Was about to reply. No joy I'm afraid - very frustrating. I also contacted the company I purchased the emulator from and below is their reply... Seems to be conflicting advice!! What do you think? hello. they can be a faff. essentially you need to release the white 'lock' then the multiplug has a pin/lever which needs pushing in to release. it will only come apart when that is depressed and will undo easily. if it is not budging the pin hasn't been depressed/properly. tim
Hi having this problem with mine since oil cooler change. When I unplug it car runs but low power and no smoke. But when I did the resistor fix,the car runs as if it plugged back in. Smokes and pulses then chucks lightning flash on dashboard. What am I doing wrong
kinggoldfish68 when the turbo was put back on was the seals seated properly? Plus if you look to the left of engine follow the pipe from turbo to the breather and make sure that’s not blocked at all
Hello guyz, i got chrysler 300c, 2006 turbo not kicking this is the code coming P1270 intake manifold runner (swirl) performance, car drives ok but turbo not working is thats the same thing need to be done as in video plz guide thanks... guyz
Victor Britain no id say that was either the turbo or the activator. If it’s in limp mode and will only go to 2.5k reves then it may be the swirlpot won’t harm doing it
@@davidmarlow2790 yes it is on limp mode, activator is ok already checked now will do that one thanks a lot for the video and the reply GOD bless you and your family ...
Victor Britain just follow the video and put a 4.7 resistor in but no more than 2watts and put it in the middle 2 holes of the plug ok my friend always here to help
@@davidmarlow2790 Hello sir, i don the job as you showed and it worked yapppyyy 🤩😍🤠😘 thank you so much you saved me bless you, any idea how can i get rid of the code aswelll ...
@@davidmarlow2790 Hi David , I tried this on my 220CDI W203 model which was on limp mode. It works but the problem is that it burns the resistors. I tried 4.7ohm
ABSOLUT ARTIST SHOULD DO HIS JOB FROM HOME ALL AROUND SHOULD BE CLEANED FROM CARBON .. SMOOF OPERATOR GET RETIRED PLEASE !! GET BACK TO LAWN MOOVER >>>>>>>>
Sincere thanks for this guys. I first heard about this fix here: www.chryslerforum.co.uk/topic/4327-the-lightening-bolt-of-doom/ and I bought the part from www.custom300cshop.co.uk/ . Where do I buy a code-reader please that can clear the engine light?
