Just finished mine. I appreciate the video. It’s very detailed and helped me enormously when it comes to finding some of the sensors to unplug for the wiring harness as well as location of some of the bolts and screws. Made my job so much easier. Great video.Thanks again.
I’ve watched your video 3 times. Starting this tear down today. new Dorman steel braided line coming this afternoon and replacement intake tomorrow. 2014 deleted jeep grande Cherokee here 250k miles. Love my eco diesel.
And I thought a timing belt replacement on my 2006 LS430 was a deep dive! Don't know how you pros do this day in and day out and make it look so effortless when it's clearly not -- great job. Would trust you with my car, and believe me, that's saying a lot. 🙂
Not only that, but the calm vocal cadence and clarity of vocabulary honest to God instills confidence in my mediocre skill set. Learning from the best though, pretty sure anyway. AMD atCarCareNut, FordTechMaku, ScannerDanner, Schrodenger are the only competition, but I see yall as a team. Just Sayin
@@NutsandBoltswithTone can you tell me how far the glow plug connectors seat on the top of the post? It doesn’t seem all the way down but I don’t want to ham fist it and break one
How's the origin of all those "American" parts.... Thailand, Indonesia, Italy, Germany, etc. What a ridiculous situation, a vehicle struck down from a $2 hose in a place that costs $4000 to get too. Awesome detailed video mate Credit to you... and my condolences to anyone caught in this situation
I have a 2015 Bighorn Eco diesel, I’m hoping it’s the same problem because it’s leaking from the exact position of that hoes. Thanks bro the video was very helpful.
Thanks for the info on the pliers my Snap-on guy has those on the truck and I was telling him about your video I just want to make sure they were the right ones. I didn't mean air tool either I'm glad you knew what I meant. Autocorrect damn you
Stealership charged me 4k to do this job because they said they had to remove the whole cab to get it done. Still have a coolant leak. I think it might be the water pump. Good thing you do a video on that job.... I'll be doing it myself this time.
Yeah it is a very expensive and time consuming job. So the one I did lifting the cab was going to be way more work because of toolboxes and ladder racks and such. I only replaced the rubber part of the hose and the front part of the metal line. But to replace that hose assembly you are supposed to lift the cab. Depending on how long it has been since you had that work done take it back and say hey I still have a coolant leak and hopefully they will tell you what is wrong. Well if not here is a link to how to replace the water pump in that truck. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5Zc18c_4NQg.html If you have any questions or need any help hit me up on Instagram. Thanks for watching.
This was the first time I have used the dealership for work, I normally do all my own work. I appreciate you putting your content out there on this engine!! Glow plugs also don't look as easy as you would think they should be, 😂
I do this job often as a dealership dedicated diesel tech. I charge people the same amount of time as Alldata says but I pull the cabs still because I pull them fairly quickly and i feel I save time rather than fighting in the tight places. Often the 5mm Hexs can become an issue, but less of an issue if you already have thr cab up. Plus there is a small hose right above the transmission I replace too that i see rupture often. With my customers theres about 4 hard to reach hoses ill replace while the cab is up.
I’m currently in the middle of replacing my water pump on a 2015 RAM 1500 EcoDiesel. I did notice some fluid back under the manifold is this a clear sign that the leak is coming from under the manifold? Also your video on how to remove the pump was extremely helpful thanks!!
Thank you. No it is not a for sure sign that it is under the intake, could be from an o ring at water pump running back or even water pump leaking and running back. It is kind of a crappy thing because once you put the water pump back on you cannot see. I would spray out from under the intake best you can and then monitor it. Thanks for watching.
Between the fuel rail on the left-hand passenger side, I have some long plastic tabs I can’t get off. How did you get yours off? They are some plastic with wires connected to the wire harness
Are you talking about the flow plug connectors? If so you just twist and pull up. Message me on Instagram if that's not it. Send a picture. Thanks for watching
How far do the electrical connectors seat down on the top of the glow plugs? They were hard as hell to get off but I don’t want to ham fist it and break a post off
Usually they are not incredibly hard to get off. When putting them back on you will feel them click down on the glow plugs. Thank you for watching. Hit me up if you have any questions.
I think i currently have this problem with my EcoD. Where are you located? Also have the P0299 code. Replacing the map sensor with a new one and putting in a new air filter. Hopefully that will solve the underboost issue. Gotta get them corrected to sell the truck. Got a 2500 Cummins to replace it.
P0299 could be so many things, charge air piping, exhaust, turbo, etc. Good luck with the map sensor because otherwise it could be difficult to diagnose. Thanks for watching. Message me on Instagram if you need anymore help.
Do you know how many hours the book calls for to do this job on a 2014 Cherokee? I have one that was just dropped off and am trying to biuld the estimate.
I actually am not sure, I am out of work for about 4 more weeks from ankle surgery. The first Eco diesel I worked on was head gaskets on a jeep cherokee. I googled turbo remove on a jeep and some people were saying the dealer told them they were going to remove the body. I am not sure though. I did not remove the body to do the headgaskets but it was not fun. You can short cut the job but it is tough to give a warranty this way. If you message me on Instagram I will tell you what I have done on these. Thanks for watching.
I did this repair on my 2015 ram 1500 ecodiesel and my heater in the cab stopped working (it blows somewhat cool) it worked before repair. Also the truck takes a while now to heat up, I changed the thermostat and still takes a while to heat up, not sure what to do next
I would say that if it worked before and does not now and all the repairs were done correctly either you have air in the heater hoses or the heater core itself is clogged. I have had several different vehicles that after I repaired coolant hoses specifically heater hoses and the heater had a problem after it was the heater core. Most likely had buildup inside heater core and once coolant was drained and the crud in there was disturbed and then coolant entered the heater core it was plugged. Message me on Instagram if you have any further questions I can try to help you out with this. Thank you for watching.
@NutsandBoltswithTone thanks man! Keep up the work your doing for us, I greatly appreciate what you do, you ha e already saved me a few thousand bucks from watching what you do and how you do it!
Could be air but also could be that coolant 3-way valve located behind the right front wheel liner. Yup theres an electric valve that sends coolant flow to your heater core.
So are the clamps not already crimped on the new hose? Or did you have to remove one clamp and get a new clamp so you didn’t have to replace the rear metal half of that line?
The new hose assembly is all one piece rubber hose clamped to metal lines in front and rear. This truck was going to require a lot of extra work to lift the cab. So I only replaced rubber hose and front part of hose assembly. Technically to replace this line you have to remove the cab. Thanks for watching
@@dieseltechjoeok I gotcha. The one we did had the EGR removed so we were able to replace the complete hose assembly without too much of a hassle. It would definitely be easier to just replace the front half though.
I would imagine if you had a good one and new exactly what you were looking for and how to get access. I left cooling system together, pulled intake and pressure tested. You can see front of engine valley with intake on so maybe best option is to take air nozzle, blow all coolant to rear of valley, pressure test and if you see coolant at front of valley then probably water pump, if you see leaking down rear of engine but nothing in front of valley then probably hose. Thanks for watching.
I just answered a comment and he said he paid $4k. To do this job properly you have to lift the cab but on this truck lifting the cab was going to take a lot of extra time so I only replaced the rubber portion of the hose and the front metal end of the hose. It is a big job and to do it correctly lifting the cab has to happen. Thank you for watching.
