I am a keen DIY'er and found this Evolution package on special offer as my first introduction into a track saw. I have been very pleased with it. I bought it just to rip a couple of oak floorboards to make custom door architrave. I immediately realised the only way to this properly was to buy the 2800 track set (2x 1.4m), and I'm very please with them. The tracks have to be aligned perfectly, and I use a long spirit level, ensuring both tracks are butted against a 2m level across the join before tightening the grub screws, and yes there is a slight gap at the join. I initially thought the small tracks were useless until I realised they had to be perfectly aligned against a straight edge, and I then found uses for 30cm and 60cm tracks, so I keep 2 joined together to give me a range of track lengths depending on the job. I decided to install our new kitchen myself and could not have done it without the Evolution.. The supplied multipurpose blade was amazing for the many cuts of 3m compressed laminate worktops, where a normal TCT blade would just cut it. I have found many uses for my setup since. I do clean off the tracks after use, and I find wiping them with beeswax before use an excellent lubricant for smooth motion. Without it I have found it can be difficult to push the saw along. I agree the dust collection is pointless, and I do use a dust mask when using it. I remember reading that Evolution say the front airflow keeps the cut line clear of dust which can be useful to see if the track has wandered from my marked line, either because the clamps had come lose, or I just want to make a quick cut without clamps. Whilst the T clamps are fiddly to set up, once I am in the mindset of taking my time I do use them on important cuts, and you can start and stop in the middle of a cut without any noticable channge in the finished cut. I must admit, if I had received the poor quality you had recieved I would have been disappointed and returned it as substandard.
I havee this saw and have no issues. It does state in the assembly not to but up the tracks and leave t least 2mm spacing on the joins. This solves your tracks catching to the saw problem
Yes agree you can do that, the gap compensates for the poor manufacturibg tolerances, it that was all that was wrong I might use it more but the issues start here rather than end, I'm glad it works for you. I've pretty much given up with it now, I only use it to rough cut boards, I've actually found using a straight edge is more reliable than the track :-( Thanks for watching and the feedback.
I bought the saw about 20 minutes ago because I saw a review by someone I support through patreon who gave it a thumbs up. I wish I had seen this review before I purchased the product. Thanks for sharing. Now to go see if I can cancel the order .
If it's any consolation, I did the same, I now avoid any review where the tool was given to the reviewer. I think if you just want to knock something up, and aren't that worried about a few mm here and there then this saw is great value, but if you are looking for a saw that will reliability cut to the line and help you be a better wood worker then in my opinion is this isn't that saw.
If it's called the anti-slip rail, it's doing its job. I'd call it the glide rail. I've found that the way that the two rails connect was poorly though out. The connectors are too close together and the edges aren't very well machined so they don't fit together. If I had a big disc sander, I'd clean up the ends so they match perfectly. I'd prefer a 3m single piece of track. I can't image that it would be too difficult to fabricate a perfect track from bar aluminum and hardboard. Good video. This probably explains why you can buy these for $89 now. I found your video looking for a solution to an issue I'm having with the S210CCS track adapter which is also junk. While sliding the saw, the adjustment cams turn and then lock the saw into the track. It's very annoying.
I come to accept that it isn't very good, and rarely use it now, it's always a tool of last resort! Thanks for watching and sharing your experiences on this tool.
I’ve just bought it with the longer track. It’s a cheap saw so wasn’t expecting miracles with it. It does the job, cuts well. So ok for the money. I get your frustration, but I’d just return it and buy a proper one. If I could afford it that is. 😜
Hola desde España, muchas gracias por tu video, muy interesante, he comprado las mismas guias por Amazon y tengo una sierra circular muy parecida; asi que are un trabajo similar para recojer el polvo. Un saludo.
I have the parkside and sometimes get a catch going across the joint. I find it helps to have the saw on the rail across the joint when tightening the jointing bar grub screws. It's awkward but it does help. I'll be trying the Mr sheen though lol
I have this track and the evolution saw but prefer to use my eauber plunge saw. There is an issue with the evolution track not aligning, which i found out having cut doors and the edge were not straight. I now measure from the back of the rail at each end and, importantly, the middle as it is here that the track bows failing to maintain a constant straight edge. With this sorted, the track works fine but, i prefer to use the eauber saw due to the anti kickback feature.
I've all but given up with it, it gets used only for rough cuts when reducing an 8x4 to smaller parts, I leave enough play in the dimensions to redo all cuts on the rable saw.
Next week in Lidl, parkside track saw, problem solved lol. Seriously though, I have a Mk1 parkside saw and it's been very good. The tracks are not perfect when joined, I don't think they ever are so when good sale was on I bought a longer festool track and mostly use that.
@@DIYTinkerer Did you fix it by finally reading the manual and leaving the 1-2mm gap between the guides like you are supposed to or did you try and file it down like a plonker?- me i left the gap and just like it says in the manual this leads to a SMOOTH transition between guides. This the perfect example of why you should always RTFM!
@@sitrepx2734 I have the 2800mm track by Evo and I wipe it over after cleaning it with WD40. It helps; however, the track isn't perfect. Been using mine for 3 years.
You seem to have made a few problems for yourself. One is that the rail pinch adjusters are only moving because you have not tightened up the allen cap screw once adjusted. Secondly with the joining of the tracks/rails. In my instructions it clearly shows and states that you must leave at least 1-2mm gap whereas you butted yours right up hard against one another. This will always cause a buckline effect. Mine was perfect when set to about 1mm gap. The only problem or more a niggle I have is the grub screws have gone and domed the guied rails where the metal slides are positioned and nipped tightly. Maybe my hand is too strong from working on aircraft where things have to be tight but still it does not have any effect on the sliding movement at all.
Other viewers have suggested that tightening it with an Allan key works, however, I've not had any success with this. I now only use the tracksaw for rough division of sheet material and nothing that needs a precise cut.
@@DIYTinkerer That is exactly what I DON'T need. I'm looking to cut odd angle miters on wide trim that need to be dead accurate. I was hoping to be able to place the track edge (rubber bit) directly on my cut line and make dead accurate and straight cuts knowing exactly where the blade kerf edge will run.
Thanks for the suggestion. The track does come with clamps, but they shouldn't be necessary, evolution states the track has an anti-slip surface, however the friction at the join was very high, if I clamped the track then the saw would simply not move past the join and I wanted to try and visualise the problem for my viewers. Once I'd filed down the poor quality cast aluminium base to remove the offending protrusion which was the cause of the 'stickiness' the saw started working better, but I think the best solution would be to only use full lengths of track.
Hi thanks for the comment. When I use the track saw I do clamp the track. This is not a problem that manifests itself with the track just un-clamped. What I was trying to do was demonstrate a problem that is difficult to show using video, because it is all about touch. I thought that by showing how big the problem is by showing that the misalignment was enough to stop progress of the saw and move the track was a good way to demonstrate it, sorry if this caused confusion. Thanks again for the comment, if I have something similar to demonstrate I'll try to be clearer about it. :-)
I find it difficult to obtain a zero clearance cut with the Evo' Track saw. Trying to get the cut spot on is difficult. I have tried some of the things you have mentioned: dust collection is dreadful and I did add a perspex cover, but it did not improve much. I also have their top of their range Construction grade DB mitre saw and the dust collection is poor on that too. The mitre saw is brilliant and I cannot fault it for accuracy, but feel Evolution need to look at this area when it comes down to dust.
Dust on all Mitre saws is bad, although I'm sure some are better than others. On the track saw front, evolution is particularly bad. RE. Accuracy I only use mine to do rough cutting of sheets to get them to a manageable size for the table saw.
@@DIYTinkerer with the track saw I can say the same; I now only use it to cut large sheets and anything else, I use my beloved hand saw. I am trying hard not to reduce the reliance of machines and in doing so, I have acquired more skills.
Thanks for the comment, it is actually on sale right now for £189. Yes it is cheap, but not as cheap as you suggest and I think it should do the basics like cut square and it doesn't. Perhaps I'm I naive, there are plenty of reviews out there from people supplied by evolution that will will tell you it's fantastic, if that's what you are after... 😀
I think this is clearly a case of a bad workman always blames his tools. I have the 2.8m track and it runs smooth across the join. I cant even 'feel' when its changed to next track. As for accuracy, it's perfectly accurate over 8 feet.
