I am going to get to have my two sons over this week end. Know we will have something to spend time doing together. Watching this guy and talking iron. It's my one son's birthday. He will be 15 so it's time to have fun.
Great video!! Love seeing this done shade tree style! Love the tire for the engine to sit on. I did the same thing as a kid when I painted my engine when it was out of the car as a teenager.
Glad you're back!!! Hope things are going well! Great little video and I hope you can give us an update on the S10 and Clevor block. Hp etc. Take care and looking forward to your next video!!
I like your show I watch a lot of these mechanic shows one thing nobody talks about and rebuild straightness the block or straightness of the head for warpage
I appreciate your style of teaching! I can tell your an instructor. My dad is a collision repair instructor at our local college. And you guys are 2 peas in a pod, how you relay the information👍👌!
I always enjoy your videos. A lot of guys know their stuff but can't present it in a way that the average guy can understand. You do an excellent job. Thanks for the video.
Backin the day the lifter tick was caused by excessive bearing clearance on many of these 5.7s. Did quite a few sets of bearings at Chevy and GMC dealerships.
Hi.. well I'm very happy to that you're still alive..and like some wondering what happened to you . Please take care.. and if you really enjoy doing the videos then keep them coming and I'll keep watching them.. stay safe and welcome back 🙏
Hey man, glad you are back, just wanted to say your camshaft selection video was invaluable as a newbie building his first engine. Thank you for the great content and for making hot rodding seem accessible to just about anyone.
I wish I had watched this video last month. I tore down my vortec block and removed the lifters thru the top. They were hard to get out in fact I had to clamp on to them with vise grip pliers to get them out. Probably ruined my block.
Welcome back. Great idea for a series. Can I rebuild an LS core with minimal tools as well? That's been a bit of a mental showstopper for me. I'm worried I'll be committing myself to $10k of tool purchases, that would be better spent on parts.
I’m doing my first build it’s a 95 Chevy 305 tbi .030 over was all done by my local machine shop on machining but I purchased 10 boxes of Hastings rings for pistons the part # 5499 030 bore was supposed to be 3.7660 but all ring gaps are around top .025 I am going hypereutectic pistons but I have alittle more movement side to side in afew pistons then others really none skirt to skirt movement I can flip same size and brand piston and put a filler gauge into it skirt to wall and .003 is max it drags pulling out now others .002 drags is this normal was going to close up with heads over the weekend it’s my late fathers truck I’m re-doing I’d never just do a 305 but it made it to 635k! 3rd trans 2nd rearend same engine !
Any experience drilling fuel pump rod hole in late model vortec 5.7 to run a manual fuel pump? I understand I may need a different cam with the pump lobe. Also what about the cooling passage differences between old and late model blocks? Thanks. Love the content!
Damn good engines,87-95 tbi 350's had 210 hp 300tq stock,torqey as F! i had a 89 chev with one,total badazz hauler(1/2 ton stepside)700r4 and 3.08's it pulled HARD at the stoplight drags. damn i miss that truck
So glad you're back! I only trust you to show me how to do things the right way. With regard to the special-sized connecting rod bearings, can you not go to the Chevy dealer and get 0.0006" bearings?
after u pull the heads, and valve covers, spray them down with easy off oven cleaner. then the next day respray to loosen the crud because it will dry flaky overnight., then in abt 2 hours, go to the local carwash and spray them with high pressure water.. -take all of your bolts and nuts, and put them in a large pickle jar, and spray oven cleaner in there and roll them around until well coated.. next day, rinse them with hot water, dry well, then light oil.. this will save you DAYS of scraping and scrubbing. if you want to check your block and heads for cracks, once clean, LIGHTLY sprinkle baby powder on the heads and block. if there is a crack, it will show as a line in the powder.
no the head bolts that take a 1/2 socket on the head should not be reused the bolts that take a 5/8 socket can be they are both 7/16 bolts, but they changed the head size for the TQ to Yield bolts to distinguish them from the earlier reusable bolts
If I wanted to swap the stock pistons to flat top pistons will I need to balance the rotating assembly. I know it would be best to do so but is it a must to have done
Hello please keep these videos coming, you're impacting more people than you. Love your videos. I have a few questions please, 1. can a roller lifter or the port it sits in cause low oil pressure? 2. can the camshaft cause low oil pressure?
I really like your videos ! I have a question. I have an 1989 350 chevy block that is TBI. I want to buy an 880 casting short block because of the 4 bolt and roller cam setup. Can I put a 450-480 lift cam shaft and run that with TBI ? Ive watched one of your videos about too big is a waste because power los.
@myvintageiron7512 is a there a specific way to identify a 5.7L TBI block like this with the 4 bolt main journals, and the drilled bosses for the spider bracket for the roller cam lifters? What donor vehicles would have this 4 bolt block? I am considering a 350 build, for a daily driver, and used the 350 Vortec factory heads.
I have a 350 block that was supposedly rebuilt. The pistons look brand new. It was supposedly bored 30 over. I have no information on the cam or anything else. What do you recommend I do?
I glad your back..I have a issue I've a sbc 400/406 with brodix aluminum heads had all the machine work done engine is complete but my issue is when the engine running the cooling temp start to rise i can say it will get to 190 to 200 with in like 10 15 minutes at idle the steam hole was supposed to been drilled in the heads but don't really know but what's else will cause this..thanks
There is nothing at all wrong with 200 degrees if that's all the hotter it gets just run it also 10 to 15 minutes seems like a long time to warm up it should be faster than that do you have a T stat in it?
@@Myvintageiron7512 yes I do have the stat but I went and removed both of the heads and found no steam holes drilled in my aftermarket heads do u think thats an issue for a daily driver
@@mackbee5763 I would get them drilled now that they are off any decant machine shop can do it but like I said 200 to 210 is no problem for that engine in fact most modern engines run over 200 degrees and they wear much slower at that temp as opposed to the 160 to 180 range
I'm not 100% positive and i have not watched the whole video yet (and i know it's an old video) but I think if the fuel pump location is capped it is drilled for a pump, if there is no cap then it's not drilled... They would cap it to seal the "hole" in the block...
Forgot to ask, working on a 98 vortec 350 roller motor, customer wants hyd flat cam instead, $$, all i need to change is timing chain, pushrods, lifters correct ? Thanks
