35s No Lift (Part II) with AEV Jeep Gladiator Wheels | Inside Line 

I think these AEV wheels would work. I’ve seen a few non-Rubicon Gladiators with -6 and -12 offset 17x9 wheels and 35s as well.

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor so o would be good with a -10

@@Aceinfinity-le8zc on a 9-inch wide wheel that would be around 4.5 inches of backspacing. I prefer to stay closer to 5 (or more).

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor I have an 8.5 -10. It’s about 4.35 backspacing.

I hear it doesn’t hit mpg that much either !

I know this is old, but what gear ratio do you usually run the 35s with?

@@andrewiglinski148 I run these tires 35’s Jeep Gladiator with 3.73 gears. Excellent

You Only feel the need to go bigger when you park next to a Jeep with bigger tires 🫠

Thank you!

Glad it was helpful! Thank you.

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Glad it was helpful!

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Glad you liked it! Thank you.

Thank you.

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Thank you!

37’s are the new 35’s 👍

I remember putting 35s on my 03 TJ and i thought it looked huge! Now i have 37s on my gladiator and it looks like they belong like that

Thank you.

You’ll be in spec for the tire and given you already have the Rubicon flares, you should be good on clearance in the wheelwells. The only thing I don’t know for certain is how much room you’ll have at full steering lock between the tire and a few components, namely the frame, sway bar, and lower front control arms. If you had the slightly wider Rubicon axles, I know without a doubt you would be fine. Unfortunately, the only JLU Sport I have personally modified had a 2 inch lift with 35s mounted on wheels with 4.75 inches of backspacing. My gut opinion is that you’ll be fine. However, I think it’s worth double checking with AEV. Given they now sell full turnkey JL’s, I bet they know the exact answer.

Thank you. Backspacing and offset are two separate measurements. However, knowing one, you can generally determine the other. The offset for these wheels is +25mm.

I'm still running the stock 4.10 gears. Could it benefit from being re-geared? Sure, but it's not a must with 35s. It holds overdrive without issue the majority of the time, even on the highway. If I lived in the mountains, I would probably re-gear, but in the coastal plains of North Carolina, it's fine.

I don't have the ARB kit. I typically use a basic core remover. The head on my ViAir compressor is pretty bulky and fits on there fine. If you keep your TMPS sensors, the valve stem is actually pretty tall. I don't think you would have a problem. Unfortunately, I don't have that ARB kit to tell you without a doubt.

I love that tire for the stock wheel. It’s the best fit.

This would have been my suggestion too. For an A/T or R/T option Kenda makes the Kleaver R/T in 35x10.5R-17 which would also work awesome with stock wheels.

I'm honestly not sure. I would think much of it will have to do with how wide of a 33-inch tire you are going with. I know clearance can get tight with the upper control arm on a wider tire.

You can run a 11.50-inch-wide tire on this wheel. That's not an issue. If you have a Sport, you'll likely need a small lift to keep the tires from rubbing. Another thing to consider is if your Jeep has the Max Tow package. If it does, your axles will be the same width as a Rubicon, which will help prevent rubbing on the frame and suspension components as easily. AEV is one of the few wheels that have that type of off-set and backspacing that's designed for the Gladiator/Wrangler platform. You could always grab a set of stock Rubicon wheels since you are just using a 11.50-inch-wide tire. You can grab these used cheap. I see sets listed for $250 to $350 in my area. If you don't have Max Tow and find that you are rubbing on the frame and/or control arms up front, you could always install a set of wheel spacers. That would be your cheapest option if you didn't want to invest in the AEV wheels.

I had this all typed out, tried to add a photo and when I tried everything vanished so I will try again without the photo. I do appreciate your response. My Gladiator is one year old with 9,500 miles. It is the standard Sport, no tow package. When I purchased the vehicle I had the dealer install new wheels, KMC 54178550700 , 17x8.5 oomm 5x127 ($195 ea.). I kept the original wheels and also had the dealer take the tires the Sport came with and put them on the new wheels. Those tires are Bridgestone Dueler A/T 245/75R17/112 MS. I also added air bags to the back (probably a mistake). Before changing to the 35” tires I was thinking about adding the Teraflex 3.5” suspension lift kit for the Gladiator which includes Falcon shocks. I am just not sure if I want to lift that high. It sure seems like the AEV rims are the way to go. I will not be doing any rock climbing. I live in the Dakota’s with lots of gravel and section line roads. I will be spending a lot of time in the West/SW driving Forrest Service/BLM/Fire Trail roads. Thank you again for your knowledgeable and informative videos.

We didn’t have any issues for the light wheeling we did with it. Unfortunately, the owner of that Gladiator moved to Texas, so we haven’t been able to do much follow up with that build.

I can’t speak for the Salta, but I know the Borah has more room for wheel weights and basically the same backspacing. I liked the classic design of this wheel, but the other ones would work fine.

I actually found a handful of bolts that needed tightening in my front end. I don't know if they simply were not torqued enough from the factory or a few heat cycles made them loosen. After that bolt check, it's been perfectly fine. The main ones that were out of spec were the tie rods and steering gear box bolts.

@@DrivingLine thanks for the reply. And you should get a commission from AEV and Nitto!

I can’t speak for all of the different lift kits. However, I can tell you that many of the suspension systems that I’ve looked at say either stock wheels or aftermarket wheels will work. Obviously, going with a wheel with a numerically lower backspacing is going to stick it out further away from any suspension components like the control arms. The issue is, you get closer to the edge of the fender as the vehicle articulates. AEV offers a 2 inch kit that I know works with this wheel. I’d recommend simply double checking with the manufacturer as to why they recommend said wheel backspacing before ordering.

Ali Mansour Editor thanks for the reply. I’m looking at icon or rock Krawler lifts. Icon says at least 4.75, and RK says 4.5. I can’t find any statements on WHY..... it seems like they just choose a generic number so they don’t get complaints about interference. I love those AEV wheels.... so maybe I just roll the dice.

You should be fine. I could fully cycle the tire without rubbing in the rear.

Those sound fine. Anything over 5 inches is good in my opinion.

@@DrivingLine thanks! Still considering changing out to the AEVs. I have a sport gladiator, do you think I’d still be ok with the Pintler wheel and the Nitto 35x12.5 with the standard sport axles? As far as a rub free scrub radius goes.

Both the Rubicon and Mojave have the same width axles I do believe. Combine that with the fact that they both have the stock highline flares from the factory and you should be able to run this tire and wheel combo without issue.

@@DrivingLine thanks for the quick response

The AEV wheels have 5.77 inches of backspacing. Your wheels have a touch over 6 inches if I remember correctly. This means the AEV wheels will sit out a little further from the Jeep. So, your tires should clear fine. I'm now running 37-inch-tall Nitto Trail Grapplers on these wheels with aftermarket control arms on my 392 and I do not rub the control arms. However, I do hit the factory front steel skid plate with the tire when it is twisted up off-road.

Thank you. They other wheel I was eyeing was the AEV Borah Dualsport.

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor They look pretty good too..! I have the Savegre 2s on my JL, but haven't seem them in the flesh on a Gladiator yet.

I have tested with the AEV Borah Gladiator wheel, which I believe has the same center opening. It does work, but it's harder to pull the mounting foot through since it is a very tight fit. The factory steel spare wheel has a larger opening in the center making it easier for the foot of the spare tire carrier to move in and out. Though the AEV opening is smaller, you can still pass it through.

@@DrivingLine Awesome! Thank you so much for the reply and the incredibly insightful video! Well done!

Yes. That's what is being attached to the wheel at the 7:30 mark in the video.

It's going to rub. You might be able to squeeze them on, but I don't recommend it. I would either invest in a small lift or grab a set of highline flares from a Rubicon model.

I have some build videos of it on my personal channel: ru-vid.com/show-UCs39On224p_B7wejymcSizw

It depends on the off-set/backspacing. The wheelwell on the Rubicon is fairly large, so you can get away with a lot. Even with a wheel with 4.75 inches of backspacing, it should work.

The simplest way to look at it is that offset is measured from the front side of the wheel and backspacing from the inside (mounting flange) of the wheel. In the truck world, I’ve always used backspacing to determine the right wheel set. It seems like in the car world, they use offset. Knowing one, you can typically figure out the other.

@@DrivingLine Such a good answer. Appreciate it.

@@DrivingLine Apologies if this has been covered. I had a look through the comments and couldn’t find anything. What was the offset on these wheels? Cheers

It's completely stock in the this video. No level or lift.

A 35x11.50 works for stock spec wheels just fine.

Most tire manufacturers recommend an 8.5 to 11 inch wide wheel for a 35 and 17-inch wheel. Going with a 9-inch-wide wheel is perfectly in spec.

A 35x11.50 works fine on the stock wheel.

No. I don't have a crazy amount of play in my steering. I've seen others that are much worse. If it becomes a problem, I will take it in for sure. - Ali Mansour

Yes. The 35 fit perfectly in the stock spare location.

@@DrivingLine On the stock spare? Or did he get a 11.5" spare?

Stock spare wheel with a 12.50

Yes. I live in Wilmington. There is a good assortment of off-road shops in/around Raleigh. ReJeep Automotive, East Coast Gear Supply, and 4Wheel Parts are all places I've worked with in the past.

Yes, but it is a very tight fit.

I’m not sure on the lightest wheel. There are just so many options. If you truly want to take your Gladiator off-road, the a taller 3 to 4 lift and at least 37s will help tremendously. A two inch with 35s is still an improvement over stock for sure.

Should not be a problem. If you want a little more clearance, just unbolt the endcaps on the bumper.

Great! Subscribed! One of the best channels for Jeep information! Thank you!

Rides great. I found around 30 psi is the sweet spot for tire pressure on the road.

You should be able to run that tire without any modification on the Mojave. The fenders are the same between that and the Rubicon. The 1.5 leveling kit won’t be necessary.

@@DrivingLine - I've read that changing tire sizes (depending on the size increment change) will require reprogamming of the speedometer. Is that the case going from the 33 to 35? Or is it insignificant?

I believe I found my answer (yes) in one of your other informative videos: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XiMn8hOJ2d0.html

Correct. I’d recommend getting a taser JL mini.

These should work fine like that . If you have the max tow package, I know you’ll be in the clear for sure as those axles are the same width as the ones on my Rubicon. If it does not have the max tow package, the tires might rub the control arms when the steering wheel is fully locked one way or the other.

@@DrivingLine do you have any non max tow package wheel recommendations that are similar style, or would you have some wheel specs for me to look for. I'd imagine I'd only need a few extra mm of offset right?

I’m not saying that these wheels will rub for sure, because I honestly don’t know. I suspect it’ll be very close. A 5 inch backspacing should work for you with a 35x12.50.

Yes.

Here’s the direct link www.aev-conversions.com/product/pintler-jeep-jl-wheel/

Thank you. I’ve only had stock wheels on this Gladiator previous to these. If you are referencing the white one I did a review on a while back, it had wheels with a -12 offset and 4.53 inches of backspacing with 35x12.50R17 Ridge Grapplers. That Jeep belonged to a friend of mine that now lives in Texas. For the light wheeling it was doing, he didn’t have any issue with rubbing. However, I never got a chance to put it on an RTI ramp and really inspect where it might contact at full bump.

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor thanks that was the one. Appreciate the feedback - I actually went with a similar build as your friend through the help of your video.

Garo Nalabandian Awesome! That’s great to hear.

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor diff topic but curious on your opinion of the gladiator steering given the recent tsb.

Garo Nalabandian every one I have driven has been fine, but it does seem like there are some Gladiators with legitimate steering gearbox play. I like that you get a cast iron box instead of aluminum with the TSB. If mine was having an issue, I would definitely get it done. If I wanted a more robust steering upgrade, I would swap the OE stuff out for something from PSC Motorsports.

That tire size will work fine. My Gladiator came with the Falken all-terrains as well. I prefer my Ridge Grapplers over them for sure. No matter what you choose, a 35 will work on this setup fine.

@@DrivingLine Thank you. Appreciate it! Hopefully, it wouldn't change the ride as much.

@@yeohdotcom Both the Falken and the Nitto are Load Range E. So, they will be a little stiffer than the load range c tires that came on it stock. I've had mine for over two years now and I am very happy with the ride. I run around 32 psi and that's plenty on-road.

@@DrivingLine Thanks for the info. Shopping for the combo can be quite overwhelming. Your info is definitely helpful!

No. The stock 4.10 gears work great with 35s.

Depends on the tire and wheel. If you’re running a wheel with high backspacing like I am and you stick to the road, you can actually run a 37. However, you won’t be able to properly cycle it off road without adding in at least a 1 inch bump stop spacer in the front.

@@DrivingLine Oh, I gotcha and thank you.

@@DrivingLine or Could i just add these to my 2022 Mojave? maybe i'll skip on the bigger tires at the moment. Just bought it 5 months ago. I have the stock 33 Wild Peaks on there, just looking for a lil more ground clearance .. and mine is my DD. thank you!

Thank you. It's a 35x12.50R17 Nitto Ridge Grappler.

Yes. They would work fine on the Mojave.

@@DrivingLine Just ordered! Can't wait! thanks again for the great video.

They are just the stock Mopar LED ones. Check out some Mopar direct websites

Both with fit on a stock Rubicon wheel. The 12.50, however, is too wide (per manufacturer recommendations). Putting the 12.50 on will make the tire crown at street pressure, the 11.50 will not.

@@DrivingLine got it, thanks!

I love my S-10. That’s for sure!