dude wow. thank you. recently did a head gasket repair and couldnt find the right way to put the gasket on and i stumbled across this video. showed the correct way. i didnt know that side was the front side of the engine...
@@daviesdan18 very helpful... i was about to install them with the arrows towards the other way. there was no videos online i could find that showed me exactly how to install them but this one.
Hey Dan, thanks for taking the time to edit and leave us with a fantastic video. I plan to rebuild my very first 3800 and with your help I believe I can get her done!
Right on, i'm glad you found it helpful. 3800s are the best. very cheap and easy to work on. Convincing myself I could do it was the hard part. If I can do it anyone can. Good luck with your project. You can comment on any of my videos if you have any questions about anything I always respond
Nice work. The only thing I would recommend is to use 2 different size torque wrenches set to the same spec to average out any calibration differences with the torque.
Check out a compound called B 1/2 for all manner of sealing except over 320° good to below -80°. Best sealant ever made there also A 1/2 a bit slower cure time.
I've never heard of that before thanks for the tip i see Amazon sells it, ill give it a try that next time for sure. I have a bad habit of just grabbing whatever cheap shit my local autozone has on shelf.
Which head stud kit from zzp do you recommend for a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix top swap? , And Thank you man I’ve been wanting to do this for a while and have been watching your guide me thought this you have helped me a lot and thanks man once again I really appreciate it.
Thanks for watching, I'm glad to help someone... So for head studs, it's really your call. The stock bolts you can't reuse. So if you don't plan to take the engine apart ever again, the cheapest option is to buy new stock head replacement bolts... Now if you decide to go with head studs like I did, they are reusable but cost twice as much. 1st option of head studs is from "ARP" very reputable company to get parts from, but most expensive.... 2nd option is the zzp in-house brand head studs. The zzp bolt kit was identical to ARP. I used them, no problems. They seem just as high quality as any ARP product to me. They are like $20 cheaper. I would recommend the zzp head studs, but it's really your call. I hope this helps let me know if you got any other questions
@ryanlohrenz190 yeah it sealed fine for me without copper spray....I have no leaks or any fluid loss of any kind. I've driven that car hard...if I understand correctly zzp only recommend copper spray for there multi layer gasket if your goin to reuse them....that said if your installing them for your first time it definitely wouldn't hurt to use copper spray for that extra piece of mind
That assembly grease that comes with those ARP studs, is absolutely the worst stuff to try and wash off your hands or anything. It is similar to anti-seize. Graphite and grease combo. As a tip, I find it easier to use a small brush the size you'd find in to paint models with, and use it to wipe the grease onto the threads of the studs. Just a stripe down one side is enough. Once you thread the bolt on it'll spread the grease nicely. Those studs are great if you believe you're going to be pulling engine apart again. Otherwise using new head bolts is much more cost effective and work fine. Thread tape is fine for studs, but not for bolts that need torqued. It'll give less resistance and false torque readings. A paste with PTFE is what you need. Although the torque on the lower intake is pretty light. I generally go to 15ft pounds. And then do it again 2 or 3 times until they will no longer tighten past 15 foot pounds. Because of the squish factor of the gasket, the bolts will feel loose again after only 1 pass over. Seen a lot botched leaky intake gasket failures from skipping that step. Looks .
