It be fun of you could show the trigger reset. To do this, charge it, pull the trigger and hold, while holding the trigger charge it again and slowly release the trigger until you find where it clicks which is an indication of how far the trigger has to travel to then drop the hammer again.
could you please update the spring kit because i printed one and the springs in the kit dont fit correctly. how did you scale the file? where do i get the spring for the magazine?
I love your designs. I have purchased all of them. If you allow me some suggestions for your next designs, I would ask you to think about the SIG SAUER P226 pistol and the classic M16 + M203 rifle that appears in the PREDATOR movie.
i just printed , it came out very nice, the only problem, i have a 7mm gap between the slider and the barrel, your is flush nose barrel and slider, mine wont close, i push it in and the slider slides back, any advise??
any possibility of making a break action gun? I know you made the double barreled ones earlier in the uploaded videos, but I want to see another gun, preferably a single shot guns like t/c contender or henry single shot shotgun (also, would be cool to see them with spring ejectors)
the only good looking D Eagle stl i can find is this one.. but this one has SSSOOOO many parts.. I just need one that looks good and the trigger works.. and maybe the slide..
Whats with the springs. When do I get them? do I make them? What so I make them with and from? What tools do I use? I'm asking cause I'm trying to assemble omw right now.. I'm so confused
@zvc_3DPrint I'm referring to the ones that are weird shapes. I have regular springs but like for the hammer. The special L shapes spring I don't know where to find.
Great Dezy replica. I have a Umarex MPX with a 30 round Belt-fed magazine. I want to 3D print a magazine to fit two 30rd belts to increase capacity. Any idea how I could accomplish that?
I bought this model. The model is good in general, but very difficult in post-processing. It took me 1.5 hours for the bolt to start moving at least a little and the same amount for it to start sliding as it should. And so practically all large parts. Friend, you must put the gaps in the parts. You know that PLA plastic is very difficult to process. In addition, it expands when printed. Maybe it also depends on the type of PLA filament. What PLA do you use, who is the manufacturer? I print on Anycubic and Createbot matte PLA. It is more rough than glossy. If you put gaps (at least 0.2-0.3 mm) in those parts that interact with other parts, it would be much easier. Also, you don't have any assembly instructions. Torsion springs for example. It would be nice to have more accurate measurements, not just photos and more precise instructions on how to install them. On your video not everything is so clearly visible. It also seems to me that several parts that are included in the set on Cults3D differ in size from those that you show in the video. Is there a possibility that you changed them at the last minute but didn't update them in the set that's for sale? Maybe I'm wrong of course, but it seems to me that the triangular bracket for the hammer and sear is thicker than the ones I downloaded. For example, the bracket is so thin that I could not print it on PLA at all. It comes out very fragile and crumbles when the supports are separated. I had to print it on PETG.
Thank you for your support and your advice. I'll check what you said about the problem later. You can send me screenshots or videos of the problems you encounter, and I will help you solve them. pla amzn.to/3PSSYtQ
Slide and barrel referances are wrong. Check the geometries. Observe better on the next prototype. These referances are belong to airsoft Desert Eagle model.
