Hi Chep, nice video! I have a little tip for you when you want to print something with large supports. In Cura, create a block in the area of the supports, of the same size, that its height is as close to the model as possible, then in the settings put a 0% infil and a single perimeter. This way you will save a lot of time and filament. I hope I have explained myself well. A greeting from Spain ;)
Thank you so much for making this video! I've been printing almost non-stop for over a week, but had been putting off printing my Mandolorian helmet. I knew something was wrong when it said 7+ days and 50% of that was going to support material!
i just watched a guy build a Mandalorian Helmet on his Ender 3 took 2 days and 18 hours. no spliting the helmet, for me i would have to split it when printing it on the ender 3, thank you CHEP for showing us how to split a object!
Your work is so inspiring, the way you teach and awesome work is a huge contribution to the 3d printing community. I have learnt so much viewing your videos and look forward to someday teach all that I have learnt, half as good as you teach. Best wishes from Peru and please keep with the great work! This is the way!!!
I printed a Imperial super commando helm and it failed 3x but I filed the seams and put the 3 different parts together and now have one sweet helm. Don't get discouraged!!
I printed with a 0,6 nozzle and no inside supports, yes inside is a bit messy but overhangs managed to work so for to complete the print perfectly... I used raft to secure the bottom adhesion, no need to split and glue... My CR10s is and stock hotend, but with Hero Me Gen5 part fan cooling and SKR1.4 board.
You don't really need any supports inside the helmet. Get's a bit messy inside at the top, but you save a ton of plastic and time. If you're going to wear it, you can cover the messy inside area with padding.
I just printed a Mando helmet whole without center support on the CR-10. took 43 hours. I made many test prints to close the top with very little looping on the underside, I got it down to about the size of a quarter. Problem is that the per model settings didn't seem to work right in for Cura 4.7.1 and the looping started about 1 inch from the top, about the size of your hand. It still completed and looks good!
With what others have said, you don't need any inside supports for these types of helmets. I've printed quite a few without any inside supports on a CR-10s. The inside may get a bit messy, depending how well you've tuned your bridging, but it's less messy than it would be with supports that you need to clean.
Printed this helmet 3 times. Didnt split the helmet but I think I might try it. Also you dont need to use supports in the middle. The nose piece though is a pain. Supports broke twice.
It would be great to see what tools and equipment your wife uses to clean the helmet up as I'm currently in the process of printing a Clone Trooper helmet on my Ender 3. Unfortunately it comes in 18 pieces. Look forward to seeing the finished article.
Normally I use Meshmixer to slice items in half but the Tinkercad trick is really interesting. Any way to add registration pins or notches to make it easier on alignment?
Sure. Just use the cylinder object as a solid and a hole to position them where you want them on the model. Just make sure to increase the hole by at least 0.1mm compared to the pin.
Timing could not have been better for this video. I just ordered a CR10v2 to replace my CR-6 Feet Under and am planning on printing this as one of my first prints on it.
A much easier way to split files in Tinkercad is to duplicate both the model and the square "hole" piece. Then you can grab the bottom height adjustment of the hole and drag it up and past itself so that it basically inverts while staying at the exact same height.
WOW been watching you since I got my ender 3 pro for xmas 2020...and just wow always great material and straight forward but that pun THIS IS THE WAY! subscribe! lol
So to cut parts I use Prusa slicer and then export them as .stl and get it sliced in Cura, I found tinkercad difficult to work on since I come from a designing platforms like CATIA and Solidworks, that's my take
Thanks for sharing another great video! May I suggest a new vídeo? How about building an enclosure for your Ender 3 so you could possibly get better results when printing with ABS? I’m currently working on similar project using plywood and would love if you could give us your thoughts and maybe showing your building process
How do you get the filament to stick to the bed? I have leveled the bed.. used a glue stick... please help me create the right ultimaker cura settings to print this helmet?
CHUCK, can i ask a question . Im attempting to print an iron man helmet but so far im having a little issue with overhangs? maybe bridging? on the eyelet piece of this helmet. I've reorientated the piece in 2 different directions and whichever ends up being the top..has like filament falling down. Very difficult to heat with an soldering iron to smooth out. Hope to hear back as the few forums ive asked this in nobody has a suggestion and others offer up that they have this same issue. THANKS.
Chep, what about reducing speed when printing the top part of the helmet, so the plastic cools down, and then maybe it's possible to print without supports, could it be possible???
Have you ever thought of an ender extender? With an ender 3 and the kit I spent less then a cr-10 and I have a larger printer. My printer is 400 x400 x 500.
Beautiful print! I’m curious whether you could use tree support on the top half, and maybe save a bit mor time and material? I printed a full-size (CR10-S, 290mmX290mmX290mm) globe that took days, and 1.5Kgs of material. I had a cylinder of support just a you did and man-oh-man was it tough to clean-out. BTW - one of the updates in 4.7.1 is “MacOS is notarized by Apple, to prevent a security warning when starting for first time”, for which I submitted a ticket in GitHub. Recall I have the issue going from 4.7.0 to 4.7.1 on my Mac (El Capitan 10.11.6) - “ no mountable file systems”
Could you help me please. I have this printer. It printed great for a couple months now I'm having issues with the first layer. I was using spray and it stopped working and I switched to glue. Now glue is not working. I'm not sure how to get it to work, I've leveled the bed but the bed doesn't stay sticky. Im printing PLA. I've played with the temp a little but I not sure what is going on. This happened with my monoprice and never figured it out.
You can print this helmet just under a day, with 0.6 nozzle and no inside support, at least my CR10s can handle the inside overhang pretty well. so no need to split and the glue ;)
You could have actually got rid of the inside infill when you where doing the second half of the helmet, you could have placed a large circle shape and have that shape go on the inside of the dome. Set the circle to 5 percent infill and done!
you didnt need that much supports for the dome part of your print if any i know loads of printers that have managed to make the mando helmets with out supports in the dome
set support walls to 0 to save on big supports like for the helmet top. idk about 5% but with 0 walls and 10% density it surely would be fine and stable
What happened to video with arduino and fusion 360, was going to watch it. Had to leave and later on when going to watch it suddenly it's made private? :-(
