Can the CR-10 V2 topple the Creality King? 3D Printer Review 

Thank you for the honest review, for the auto-leveling sensor, firmware, filament detect sensor, touch screen, flat spot, and volcano hot-end you mentioned, we will feedback all to the company and continue to improve!

A surprisingly glowing ending, I wasn't expecting it after the tone change once bed leveling was addressed.

Thanks for the shout out Angus. Another great, honest review, putting the viewer first.

Angus 2:10 it’s not the standard Creality Hotend design. It’s a fin design similar to E3D but does have the PTFE all the way to the nozzle. I showed it in my review.

Just wanted to say, I appreciate your videos. I am brand new to 3D printing and when I have questions on anything your my go to creator for answers. Thanks for what you do my friend!

Thank you, also just want to point out, I was having some printing problems and just noticed my bed was a bit loose (ender 3) like this one on the vid, every day we learn something new

I'm so glad you reviewed this printer, I had already ordered one a week ago as my first printer. I will diffidently be checking those Y axis rollers before I start. The interface shouldn't bother me too much as I already have a pi 3b+ loaded with octoprint. I would love to see a follow up to see how you went with the Titan extruder and the upgraded firmware.

Still got my CR10 done a few mods to it, and had to replace some parts that stopped working but nothing expensive. Great printer to learn on and produces some fantastic prints.

If you choose preheat then home on any other printer (as far as I have tested), they all wait for the preheating to end before executing the home command... that's a Marlin thing, not a Creality thing :))

Thanks Angus! You rock!

Jeez, you're just pumping out videos! And I like it

Great review Angus. The constant smile on your face speaks volumes about how passionate you are about this hobby. I am thinking about getting the V3 of this printer and have watched a ton of unboxings and reviews however there's one thing about setting up the printer that bugs me.. Not once have I seen anyone put a square on the uprights and so in theory when installing the support bars you could push one upright slightly backwards and pull the other one slightly forwards. The taller a print goes, the more twisted it would print? Or am I missing something here?

Angus, great review as always!

Okay, Tevo now knows what the Tornado v2 needs: This + AC heat bed and assisted leveling. The same improvements as years ago.

I love your reviews and thanks for the help!

Thanks for the heads-up. I've been looking at a CR10 Max for a larger build volume. If I go that route I'll keep an eye on the Y axis and watch for flat spots.

To be honest I really like the click wheel on my Ender 3, which is most likely the same. I wouldn't want to have a touchscreen since it would result in a higher price

Another great video, Out of curiosity did it have thermal run away protection enabled ? Since your following in Preston’s footsteps can’t wait to see your skateboard reviews soon 😀

YES Agnus I do love your channel and great review

For bed leveling: you can put together some G code that moves the nozzle to be over each leveling bolt in turn, pausing until you click the wheel. I did this for my Ender 3 and threw it on each SD card I use for the printer. That way, you can just spin the wheel clockwise a few times and you'll hit the code without hunting around for it.

I've had my CR-10s for about a year now and love it. Lots of fun to tinker with and upgrade stuff. Converted mine to direct drive with 3D printed parts, then got a little kit a few months ago just to make it a bit sturdier. All new fans and part cooling. It handles a 0.8mm nozzle with the stock hot end no problem with the right settings, and it is super fun watching it just gobble filament and spit out a part in minutes! I also really don't mind manually leveling the bed. I think it's kind of satisfying in a way. And once it's set, you basically don't need to mess with it again. Although, I will very slightly lower the bed when going to PETG since it doesn't like a first layer smoosh as much as PLA.

I really appreciate your unbiased review. I seem to remember you as NOT a big Creality fan as far as the original version was concerned. Next we'd like a list of upgrades to make you love it...

Our firmware for this machine keeps the heat on when it runs out and keeps the motors locked. Check it out. :)

The one thing I absolutely love about my Prusa Mk3 is the automatic bed levelling - that makes it worth it to me already. Levelling beds has become my biggest pet peeve since I got my CR10, and it is so incredibly annoying. Second peeve are those clips to secure a bed - started to hate them too. I might upgrade the CR10 to linear rails in the future (v-rollers are getting old), get auto bed levelling, breathe some new life into it, but I'll never get another manual level printer - it's not worth the savings (to me), if you print a lot.

Glad to see you had a good experience with this creality machine. You can be a bit of a harsh critic of all manufacturers in general and theres nothing wrong with that. As someone who has two creality printers and one abysmal CTC printer that i cut my teeth on 3 or 4 years ago im glad to see the awesome stuff creality keep bringing to the table. Im a big fan of josef prusa but cant see myself ever buying one of his machines. The next step im waiting for is an affordable version of e3ds tool changing corexy. Do i really need it? no. Do i want it? hell yea!

My BEST upgrade to my cheapo A8 clone was a genuine E3D "Block and Sock" kit. For under $30 I had fixed the flakey taped-in-place hotend thermistor and now had badass heating capability, can run 1.0 or 1.2mm nozzle very well even at ABS temps. If I got that I'd quickly do the same....though kinda nervous to go bowden from DD.

Great review 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

Finally, can't wait to watch!!!

I was hoping for a review before I bought mine over a month ago. I took the gamble and picked one up. Its technically my first printer but Ive been so happy with it. Printed some great stuff with the stock nozzle but upped it to a .6 to print larger vase based stuff. I havent gone into Cura or Creality settings to tweak anything but have been getting good prints with basic settings. Getting some base ideas under my belt then ill deal with tweaking. Just trying to prototype fast atm

Very nice review, Angus.

that abyss filament is so gorgeous

My CR10S transformed from a mess into a star when I added a BL touch with mesh auto bed leveling. So in my case, for long term reliable, fuss-free operation, a BL touch or any other good ABL probe is a must.

Great review Angus. Kudos to Creality, they have come a long way. Sure, a BL Touch should be included IMHO but hey, it's still a lot of printer for the money. I agree on the nozzle size, my #Borg has a 0.8mm. When I want fine detail I use my MK2

Heating the bed first and then the hotend is also in my Ender 2, so I'm guessing that has been there for a long time. If you go into the menu, you can set the temps and fan speed manually though, that'll make sure to heat both simultaneously.

I have had my CR10s since it first came out few years back! I have replace all the cheap fans with Noctua fans and it's quiet as a mouse! Best 3D printer for money by far

thanks I will pull the trigger on this machine now!

after trying over 17 3d printers this machine is amazing.... my fav printer

Its a good sign that they still go to blunt honest reviewers even if they get a bad review. shows they might be listening and working on improvements. i hope.

I have 2 of the CR-10s machines and they both work flawlessly after creating supports for the uprights and a few mods to the stepper gear for the filament. I leveled my bed over a year ago and haven't touched it since with no problems of the models coming loose. And it's the original glass (warp facing up). I also just started running TPU through it and it works great as well. So I don't see much need in buying a new machine that isn't a huge improvement over the CR-10s design. However, I would love to see a Volcano hot end or native direct drive. I almost upgraded mine, but just never really felt like messing with it.

Hi Angus, great review, very interesting watch! Quick question, the failed print at the 6:30 mark, do you have a link for that, it looks like a very interesting print! Would look good pained up on my Warhammer 40k table

I used to scoff at automatic bed levelers, but now with multiple printers going all the time the convenience and time savings are a real bonus.

Omg last video I requested for this review and here we go ladies and gentlemen..🥂

Terrific review as usual.

You do a great job in the review thank you, I did buy the 10S Pro i found a refurbished one for $350 and could not pass it up. after a few weeks of pulling my hair out it has become a work horse for my 2.0 mm layer rapid test part maker. However, i really wanted the Max, and those glorious Z axis struts. As i looked at the photos of the Max, it seems i could widen the Pro using Max parts. Maybe cut square holes in the steel cover to poke the frame rails out bit that is not bad. Could you help me determine if this is feasible and then add the lovely struts, which i already bought but have no place to attach at the bottom. I think a Pro to Max kit would sell, even if we had to cut the steel cover. a little patience with a dremel and viola!

I have been trying to figure out what printer to go with for some time and I appreciate all the knowledge I have been able to gain from your videos. Given your review of this model, what is your opinion on the Ender 5 Plus? I like it for the size to price and seems like if the Extruder and Hot End were changed out for a v6 or mosquito might actually be a better than decent printer as it appears to be a decent printer as is, just missing a few refined details. Thank you

it's way past 2am, so I don't know if it's me or if it's the video, but was there a red color cycling through towards the end?

Hi Angus, can you recommend a good dual extruder printer? Why seems low-end printers care dual extruder? I found only FLSUN (that I bought... bad kit!) and the hictop duale 3. What would your choice be? Thanks!

As for the bed heating before the nozzle, you can always set them to heat up together once you start the heating process by going into the settings. I only have the normal CR-10, but I’m assuming it’s the same since the firmware looks the same.

I trust Angus’s reviews more than most.

Thank you for this review, if I can use a bit smaller printer, what should I get in your opinion for the same money instead of CR-10 V3?

I've been waiting on this video

Just upgraded a cr10 s5 to a 32 bit controller, touch screen, best stepper hotswappable stepper drivers, 500watt power supply so no more waiting till people can walk on water, which has never happened ever, silicon hotend cover, wifi control, LED lighting so it makes a modern looking multipurpose desk lamp, 1mm nozzles to print larger items within a suitable amount of time within my lifespan, because people really only do live only once, just once, and i stupidly forgot to grab 24v fans and hotend, because i'm sometimes an idiot, only human, such as yourself for instance, though soon everything should just be impeachy keen, and may print useful items with nonplanar highspeed 3d printing, maybe a new car, or a friggin space ship, or many more of these mini models of guitars for my replica mini music store. Terrific! Terrific! Keep on rolling and rocking down under, and thanx for that review, as this is what you do, you groovy inspiring bastard you! #MaterialPhysics

Have you looked at all into the Autodesk and Kick-starter standardized 3D printer test? It produces a result out of 30 and seems to be a good way to compare the quality of printers. It's on GitHub, and even has a detailed explanation of how to assign points for each part of the test.

I just put my together. My first layer of the Benchie isnt adhering well, it pulls the line when making the corner. What do you use on you bed to improve adhesion?

Can you do a comparison between the CR-10 V2 and the Artillery X1? pleeeeease

i thought it was a flat spot on a roller too but there is just too much squeeze on grooves. you need to adjust those rollers and it will most likely be fixed :)

So basically it's a cr10-s with extra frame support added and micro sd to sd and you have a v2 cr10 is amazing I still have the first version and loved upgrading as new versions came out you learn more starting from the basic those lines on the prints I do believe there seams and you can hide them in cura to the sharpest point of the prints or hide them by random seam points hope that helps great review tho bud keep up the great work love your vids :)

they're probably in the verge of selling something basic to start 3D printing from, keeping some inconvenient elements that makes the DIY feel of most 3D printers, or make them the complete print-ready package as much and as long as possible(factoring in bed warping perhaps with mesh bed leveling of the autobed leveling?), I know we have the Ender 3 probably for the absolute baseline kit/diy printer without much of hassle, and people are going to mod theirs right away anyway; CR-10 could just be slightly bigger, but almost top-of-the-line better but they likely still can't risk creating an assembly line and QC to cater additional features, because everyone seems to have differing budget and opinion as well; clone bltouch? clone titan? original add-ons? marketing either would often be problematic even if they're basically drop-in replacements like capricorn PTFE.

I just use control to heat the nozzle and the hotend at the same time. I never use the preheat features

Thanks for this review, still not sure what to buy. :-) Great to see a Mean Well in this, but is 350w enough for a heated bed on such a large build volume? Also, will it be sufficient to support a volcano hot end? We talk about Creality listening to feedback, but I’m not convinced. They shipped the CR-10s PRO with a fantastic 500w Mean Well unit and not put one into this printer, but thank goodness they did not use that fire hazard 500w “Branded” PSU from the Ender 5 Plus. It is a real shame as I would have gone for that printer had it not been for that PSU.

So I guess it's time to migrate this new hotend/coolingfan-design on the ender 3. Looks pretty nice :-)

Would lubricating the wheels help? Also what kind of lubricant would be best?

I cant wait till the Pruisa mini review.

last time I was this early, Angus had purple in his hair

Bought and set my CR-10 v2 up yesterday, making sure everything was square and level... Only two minor issues I've found so far. The Y-axis has a tight spot towards the rear, and the Z-axis switch is too high, leaving the print bed to lose and prone to wobbling while moving. Can't do much about the Y-axis, but printed a new mount for the z-axis switch so I can lower the bed a touch, getting those springs under a bit of load. Todays' task is tweaking the settings for PTEG...

Hi Just ordered one after watching your review. Can you advise what fitment the nozzle is? is it a standard mk8 or something of their own creation?

You didn’t mention it but can we assume that thermal runaway protection is enabled on those machines?

The CR10s v1 is now on sale in the Creality website that made me jump the gun to get a big print volume. That is the pne I got instead.

Love the design I just wish the control box was set up like the Ender Series.

Thanks for the video.

+1 for the Holmes Basic Dungeons&Dragons manual in the background. Still one of my favorite covers.

I don't think I've ever seen a review where anyone asked about a software switchable power supply. This seems like a great feature where the printer would simply turn itself off after a print or when it detected thermal runaway.

I always found it much quicker to preheat the bed and hot end prior to printing.

How about adding the BL Touch? I would love to see that with results!

Dang, I just got a CR-10S a few weeks back for the same price, I missed out. Does it have thermal run away protection? I know mine didn't from testing, but I've since swapped my board for an SKR 1.3 with TMC driver's.

Hey Angus, just curious, what prints do you keep and what do you throw away? And how do you store what you keep?

If you are getting this printer, please please please also get the BT TOUCH, easy install, and prints like a dream!

I had this "flat spot" with my Ender3s as well, wehn moving the gantry left to right it felt like it locked in one place. And the solution to this was to loosen the rollers a bit.

I own two of these... they are both COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. ordered them both directly from the creality website, both came if different boxes, the hot end is different, one of the extruders can take a manual knob the other can't, one has holes for the bltouch (don't buy one) the other doesn't, and one had clips for the bed the other had integral sliders to hold the bed; and it's sort of random which one has what parts. they both print perfectly, except the filament sensor on one was not functional, so I simply bypassed it by breaking it open and taping the switch into the "on" position.

Hope to see Creality fixing some of the mechanical issues in the rails at some point.

Would I still get great prints on my CR10 if I were to use a 1mm nozzle instead of the normal .4mm nozzle? What would be the drawbacks?

Look at the Sovol SV01. I got one for $150 and loved it. It retails for $300 but IMO it has a lot of great features (direct drive with E3D Titan remix, ceramic glass build plate, filament runout sensor, and Meanwell 24V power supply) that the stock CR10 appears to lack. It can also heat the bed and nozzle at the same time, and prints flexible materials wonderfully with a single easy modification in the extruder. Also it's size is respectably larger than Ender 3 but just barely under CR10

For the price, I'll stick with my FLSUN 300x300x450 for US $349. At least it came with a touch screen, inductive bed leveling and three choices of nozzle configs.

I find it interesting some of the stuff you're criticizing is stuff I'm just used to since I've only got a (very heavily modified) Ender 3. I mostly control my printer through octoprint anway though. I rather like the simplicity of the simple LCD/Scroll Wheel interface. As far as bed leveling, yeah manual bed leveling with these printers is annoying which is why I almost immediately put ABL on my Ender, and I suspect any printer I get in the future will be day 1 upgraded with a BLtouch at least. I wish creality would make a coreXY printer though. I've been waiting for them to do it so I can finally stop spending money on my poor ender 3 and buy a second printer. I don't like the idea of an i3 design with a bed bigger than maybe 235x235, it just seems like slinging that size bed around is a fundamentally flawed idea as far as print quality goes.

Angus, you mentioned that the print surface likes an ultra close first layer but you didn't mention the actual layer height you found was needed. On a printer of mine that uses a Build Tak type surface I use 0.25mm for first layer. I recently acquired a delta with this same type of glass like surface. The default slicer profile used a first layer height of 0.3mm which seems way too high. I'm going to test 0.25 but wonder if it might need to be lower.

Hi,I want to buy my first 3D-printer, but there are so many different models…I did some research and ended up with Prusa and Creality.But what is a good investment if you have a budget around 800 euro (880USD)?What brand or type do you advise at the moment?

Hey Angus, Care to share your slic3r settings for this printer? Greetings from austria!

Will you make a creality CR20 PRO review?

I've given up on Creality they have a hotend flaw which they never addressed on the CR10S Pro. I moved to Artillery Sidewinder X1 and have never looked back

This sounds like the one I need to replace my tronxy!!! :D (Or th Max, with the auto levelling (I know I should level by hand, but sometimes you just want to click and print) :P ).

Real talk, Cr-10 s Pro or CR-10s V2 ? I hear that the bed leveling with the pro is very hit or miss...

Will stick with my Tevo Torando still with TH3D,240v Bed is winner for me on that machine even tho some seem to not approve of mains bed

Angus, I see below that you shot this video first, but given the very strong position you took on the TronXY about TRP you really need to make some sort of statement here. Many reviewers have a set of measures they include in every review. You have this with your tolerance test. If you are going to take a strong stand on safety as another measure then you need to be consistent across reviews. At least you assembled the support rods. That's better than another reviewer who did the review with them off. Thanks for the review!

My CR10S Pro has more stringing than that. Is it the slicer settings or the better cooling duct ya think?

Can you please make a video about piezoelectric printable filament.

Any thoughts on the Flashforge finder 3d printer ?

Go to the turn setting abd you can trick it to heat both.

Does having a glass bed mean that we do not need any BL touch and auto levelling, since the bed does not warp?

I notice on Amazon that Creality is selling the CR-10 V2 with a V2.5 upgrade. I wonder if that update sorts out some of the issues that were discussed in this video.

I have a original CR-10 so did you think they would make an upgrade kit to fix up the older machines? since really it’s just braces, new steppers, power supply, and a few other small things. I’m sure there would be aftermarket kits but I’ve been always cautious of quality and longevity.