Very cool project! Impressive that the stock heater could handle heating that amount of filament continuously. Could you share your print speed settings?
Man if I could give this video 2 likes I would. 100% going to be trying this is the near future albeit I will probably just buy a CHT 1.8 since they are available now.
drill some holes in the side, get some brass wire to go through the holes, and use brazing solder for brass to solder them in, you'll need a blowtorch to braze those in, but they can easily withstand temps over 400C so for a printer its fine, unlike normal solder then tap the thread so its good again that'll increase the effective melting area and speed and you maybe can even do 4-5mm then and you wont need that restriction on the inside, you should then be able to go all the way through with that 3mm drill while it still melts properly :) basically a ghetto ultra large CHT nozzle
Bro you should try this again with some of the cheap cht clone nozzles. Since they have the insert that splits the filament I think the 3mm hole would work .
awesome. I am printing LARGE, I mean really large pieces (think about 3 meter sizes, printed in parts, must be functioanal and strong). Upgrading from 0.4 to 0.8 mm nozzle already helped to pump up my grams of filament that I can print in 1 hour. Currently print of FLV Sun 0.8 mm nozzle, 1.75 mm filament, 100 mm/s - 0.3 mm layer height and 0.9 mm wide layers, with very good quality and strong bonding. This turns out to about 75 gram/hour wich is the ral metric for me. I actually would like to go to 150 g.hour but quality and bond strength must remain excellent. Slight increased layer heigh to abot 0.4 or even 0.5 mm would not bother me. I am wondering if changing to 2.85 mm nozzle would do any good. In theory yes, nozzle is much bigger but is it possible to get everything warm enough and get all this filament through fast and nicely flowing and all. Love your work. If you have any suggestions or would like to do a video on how to pump up to 150 gram/hour with good quality that would be awesome.
I have a question about the rock tumbling, could you leave a print in with some cut up copper wire, would it be conductive in any way so you could electroplate it? I have been having horrible results with graphite powder.
No, this will not work. Graphite paint need to be polished after applying. Then check that the resistance is around 4kOhm. Then slowly increase current.
Thank you. It‘s 9mm/s and 250°C for the 3mm nozzle. Speed is key when going big diameters imho. You can lower temp when you have the feeling it‘s too hot.
In a nutshell: Print very slow, and very hot. for the final nozzle i went 240°C and 7-10mm/s with PLA. But you have to figure it out for your machine, as these settings will absolutely vary.
@@BH4x0ryou are right on that part. I usually drop my infill to about 8% Because the infill a 15% wastes a lot more material on 1mm nozzle compared to .4mm
@@ISILENTNINJAI I think an IDEX printer would be great for that, have no less dense infill and the 0.4 extruder/hotend would do the infill for example I believe a 15% infill part with a .4 infill would be stronger than 8% at 1mm because the infill appears more often, ofcourse the thicker infill will be stronger AT THOSE points but not inbetween
why the hell is everyone going with higher layers and more plastic per sec... If you ask me i would rather go with 0,01mm layer height for best definition.
Bro, please stop with that horrible music. it's very annoying. your printing is great but at least turn the volume down. love your electroplating videos are awesome. and know we cannot turn the volume down on this end, because your voice will not be heard.
There is no real point. Some like the esthetics of big layers, some like to find out if it‘s possible to print 3mm width with 2.85mm filament. Just fooling around.😉
