Yes, definitely talk about how you made your enclosure! It looks awesome and I am wanting to do the same thing eventually. I have seen a few others make some nice ones, but so far I have really liked the look of yours, plus it seems like you have it attached to your wall which is something the majority of others haven't done. Amazing and informative videos as always. Thank you for taking the time out of your busy schedule to do these!
Skip #1 & 2, use cold pulls instead. That actually removes whatever is clogging the nozzle instead of just moving it. The electric screwdriver is super underrated in this field, highly agree there.
I have acupuncture needles, but what I found works better for clearing clogs are carbide PC board drill bits. Why? Because they're fluted and can actually _remove_ material when twisted into a clogged nozzle, _even if said nozzle is cool._ The only thing to watch out for is to take care to not drill out the nozzle hole - you can oval your nozzle if you're overzealous - but if you're using one to clear a hot nozzle and pay any reasonable amount of attention to what you're doing this is rarely an issue. (I also run 0.6mm hardened steel nozzles and my cleaning bits are 0.4mm, so it's a little harder to accidentally modify the hole.)
Another must-have tool: a full set of long, metric, T-handle, ball-end, hex drivers - 2mm-8mm will cover just about everything on just about any 3D printer with a print area smaller than half a cubic meter. Ball-end and long length lets you get into tighter spaces, T-handle gives better control over torque. (Just remember to scale your aggression to suit the size of the screw so you don't snap the head off. M3 screws don't need multiple hundreds of newton-meters of torque.)
One of the things I'm glad I did with my scraper was to sharpen it. Not enough to cut obviously. It went from 0.7mm to .4mm (yay calipers!) and made a big difference in getting under prints. Thanks for your videos, they've been helpful!
@@TheSuburban15 I slightly opened the caliper and tried to slide the edge into it. Slightly opening the caliper if it wasn't going in. Took about three measurements as best as I could, averaged the value and rounded to the nearest tenth. Now that I think about it I could've pressed the edge into a paper and measured the indent.
Heat guns have many general shop uses and really benefit from a stand so you don't have to waste a limb holding the heat gun. The small one you show would be easy to make a variety of stands for. My workbenches have steel tops or steel sheets so I'd use a magnetic base (as use for dial indicators etc) which are quite versatile but you could certainly print one then insert a rare earth magnet in the base. A hot air soldering station (a very small precision heat gun) would be worth experimenting if you already have one.
Wood chisels - great for cleaning off support material from surfaces, especially flat surfaces. Can pick up a set of small ones (1" / .5" / .25") for pretty cheap.
I'm printing an Ironman helmet for a Christmas present. I bought a Milwaukee 12v detail sander and it is such a quality of life improvement. Light enough to hold in one hand and I can do my sanding outside to avoidl pla dust settling on everything i own
I have most of the stuff u mention even the fine tip hot torch( cigar lighters). Will get a 3D pen soon. I would add a electronics SMT repair hot air unit. It has multi size n shapes of nozzles and temperature control which will work better than hot torch. Thanks for sharing 💕good video.
Tweezers are very nice, I have a pair from army painter, the red one is incredibly helpful in removing purge lines, skirts and brims with a too low Z-offset, or filaments with ungodly amounts of bed adhesion
I think he knows we want to see the video he asks us if we want to see… I think he just does it to drive participation. I’ll comment anyway because it helps the RU-vid gods. :)
Damn. You caught me. That’s EXACTLY what I do, but I will also say that I use it to gauge which priority I should put the videos in. For example, I got some responses about blender versus Onshape, but not nearly as many as I got about the 3-D printer cabinet, so I rearrange the order in which I’m prioritizing those videos. It’s a really helpful tool for me to know what to focus on… And, if it gets the algorithm to recommend my videos more even better.
I'd love to see someone to a video on uses for failed 3d prints and waste bits like support and skirts because I have 2 bags full of them and don't have the space to get one of those gadgets that makes new filament! Also, little tip I learnt with digital calipers. Use an SR44 battery instead of an LR44 battery to have a more stable voltage across which means more accurate readings.
14:50 I tried the hot glue on a warping ABS print on an unheated bed. Yeah... The glue adhered the part so well to the bed, that eventually the warp spread to the soft-magnet flexi-build plate, whatever it's called. And the whole plate warped off the moving assembly and failed. But the hot glue worked! I was thinking about printing clips, but I think basic binder clips would work. Just clearing obstacles if the handles are removed.
Cool trick I've pulled with a hot glue gun is to use popsicle sticks to built scaffolding around tall skinny models to keep them from wobbling. Just glue to build plate and model and take it off after the print. Managed to print what was basically a tall wall that was 220mm tall by about 3mm wide out of TPU with this trick. Nice list.
Great video as usual. What about a video showing how to correctly use brass insets with your Soldering Iron, that is, how to get them correctly in, perpendicular, and what holes you need for the correct inset :) Greetings from the Galilee.
Would not recommend using hard metal to clear the main part. It can scratch the smooth inside and cause more built up. use brass brazing rod. The smallest diameter is 1.6mm.
I have a cardboard box that my 2D printer came in, I sealed the seams with tape, and it’s now my dedicated filament trash can, it’s already got about a kilo of filament trash in it.
I have glass beds on all my printers and iv had nothing but amazing results with easy removal yeh granted it’s stuck strait after print is finished but iv never had one over stick and I don’t use glue either as you don’t need it if you get the right layer height just leave the print 5 mins too cool down and it’s pops off effortlessly
Could you tell a bit more about using soldering iron to insert magnets into the prints? As far as I know this metallic one's you showed, called neodymium magnets, are quite temperature sensitive and can lose most of it magnetic strength after being heated up around 80 Celsius degree. I'm really interested how you manage to do it.
Yep, you have to be SUPER careful with the magnets, which is why I suggested an adjustable heat soldering iron. You also need to be FAST. If you do it in 1-2 seconds, you can keep the magnetism
If you're working with rare-earth magnets, you're usually better off to design a hole or dimple for the magnet into the print and use a glue of the sort shown here to adhere the magnet onto/into the print. This neatly sidesteps the risk of overheating and killing a magnet, which sufficiently hot filament can do even if you're quick. Also, a hot nozzle printing over a small neodymium magnet can heat it enough to kill it, so be careful about embedding one into a print.
Pushing a needle into the nozzle pushes the clogging particles away inside, but they usually come back pretty quickly and the clog returns. Better to do a cold pull or two, or change the nozzle and get on with life. The needles aren't really a solution to clogging. Polishing your metal scraper allows it to be safely used on PEI without scratching. Round the corners a bit too and it can be used safely and effectively without scratching the printbed.
Good tips! I don’t find that I get clogs after the acupuncture needles, but good to know that I should look out for it. Thanks for being a returning viewer and commenter Alan, I always appreciate your inputs!
Regarding playing RU-vid music in the background... I think I'm missing your point - can't you just cast the tab (assuming you are using chrome) to a Bluetooth device and go to another tab to keep doing whatever else you want?
I would say that if your drill is too powerful for 3D prints. You either went for a cheapo on/off version rather than a proper gradual “trigger” or you shouldn’t be fristed with powertools 🤷🏼♂️😂 (But i did just Yesterday get annoyed that i had to use my bigass milwaukee because i hadn’t charged my tiny one :b)
Lol, the shots in the corner made it look like you had tefilin on As always, loved the video! Edit: it was also exactly the perfect length to watch while eating the sushi I’d just picked up!
Looks like I should be using 3D Gloop to be able to get decent adhesion to print bed. I haven't been able to print anything in a week because nothing I do will give me any sort of decent adhesion. Drives me insane!
Brass rods are even better than steel since the metal is softer than most heatbreaks and won't scratch it. You should be able to pick up a 1.5mm or 1/16" rod at most hobby stores.
I was gonna do several but I have too many content ideas so it’s likely gonna be one updating on the build and then ongoing videos with my impressions and experiences. Maybe even shorts. I have more ideas than resources for videos, and I wanna talk about other stuff too… like the laser cutter I’m getting!
Did you print the hexagonal lattice hanging on your wall that I see in some of your shots? If you purchased it, can you tell me where you got it from. I really like the modular function. I’m hoping that I can use it for my print room and also my ham shack. Thanks in advance and thanks for your great videos.
Just whatever you do, be Verry careful about hot gluing down a failing print to a textured PEI bed... At least DO NOT try to remove the glue till the bed is dead cold. If you scrape off the soft glue flush with the texture, Getting it out of the texture is a bitch. I removed PEI before the glue came out.
I swear.... If I wasn't already subscribed, I would have instantly subscribed for either the 'acupuncture urethra' comment or the terrible 'Holland clog' pun... Keep giving that type of content and I'll unsubscribe just to subscribe again.
don't buy cheap calipers, they will not last long and will start offsetting really soon in their lifetime. loss of any precision is the last thing you want from precise measuring tool. and don't give such an advice. spend $40 for high-quality mitutoyo calipers with 0.05mm precision (you don't really need higher), it'll last you for decades
OK, thank you for the feedback. I actually check my stats and 95% of my viewers our age 24 to 36. I also specifically mark that my videos are not for children in the RU-vid settings, so RU-vid should not be serving them to children at all. However, I guess you’re right that the value of the jokes is not worth the potential risk of losing children as an audience. I will get rid of them. Appreciate your feedback.
