One note for installing taller struts using the bottle jack method: I did this on my '97 when installing a Dobinsons 2" lift and a diff drop kit. After driving around a while I detected a lot of CV grease spattered around the front end, and it seemed to be coming from both inner CV boots. I assumed that the boots had torn from the slightly different angle so back up on the hoist and re-inspected. They were fine. So what caused the problem? Well, what actually happened was a little more difficult to detect (but much easier to fix). When we hyperextend the drive components to shoe-horn the new struts in, the CV boots will "pull" upwards on the axle shafts. The shafts have a very subtle taper to them, so when the boots pull over that taper, they will stretch, along with the clamps. The easy fix is to just make sure to re-tighten your clamps once the tension is released from prying the two ends apart, and you're good to go.
@@PhoRunner I have a big question 4 u. What's the largest lift you can put or have ever been able to put on a 3rd Gen b4 without taring the cv boots apart and end up replacing the axles. And secondly my axles in the rear, one has gone bad. Do you have an up grade recondmondation. Something a little beefier. If not you one of the readers?????
@@RedRabbit4230 any 2-3" lift is going to rip cv boots that are original. Just refresh the boots and perhaps do a extended mod or get extended cv boots The rear has no upgrades. Just rebuild them with Marlin rebuild kit (i have a video).
I'm looking forward to a PhoRunner timing belt and water pump video 🙏🙏🙏Kudos to the way you set up your videos. 👏👏👏I love the way you lay out all the materials beforehand explain everything clearly. Seriously, your videos are a gold mine for the third gen community!
I like your videos because they’re way faster to watch than the leading competitor, JimmyJaJoolGuy. Much less talking. I still like his vids for in depth explanations for things, but when I’m pissed off cuz somethings broken and I don’t want extra bs, you’re the guy to watch!
Replacing shocks/struts on my '00 4Runner SR5. I won't be doing the work myself but this video will let me work more effectively with the shop doing the job. Thanks for a great tutorial!
I've studied your video for at least a year until I finally was able to get my suspension. Thank you for the straightforward step by step instructions. The rear was a PIA but I used your trick and it definitely was effective.
@@PhoRunner Me too. As usual for a "2-3 hour job", I was on the passenger side rear and couldn't get the top nut torque down. I realized that the nut was deep into the bushing and low and behold I found the top washer in the perch. It took me another hour just to get the nut off but eventually got it and got everything buttoned up. That passenger side rear is the worst!!!!!!
I've done strut assembly replacements on a couple other vehicles, but it's always good to get some details on that specific vehicle. I partially watched other videos but they try to hard to explain what they're doing or did the repair with too many extra unnecessary steps and they all failed at making a usable DIY video. This video explains and shows the simplest way this repair is done without taking too much of your time. I appreciate the info, it helped me get mine done quickly without any hassles throughout the whole process. Thanks bro
I try to make it the easiest method I know or seen haha. There’s an easier method (more dangerous) for disassembling a strut. I may do it in the future if I change things up
Bottle jack for the win! Dude u made lifting the front look so easy. I live in the rust belt and my 4th gen was a nightmare but worth it. Jus got my first third gen super excited about it.
Right on!! If it's pre-assembled, this technique is the best. I have another technique if it isn't pre-assembled. Perhaps I'll make a video one day on it ;)
Appreciate all the videos! If it weren’t for channels like yours I don’t think I’d be able to build this 3rd gen. I have a question with the top hats linked do you put a washer below the included bushing. Or just one on top?
In the US, with left hand drive vehicles, if the springs are labeled DS and PS, we install the DS (Driver Side) springs on the PS (Passenger Side) and visa versa. The springs are labeled for the right hand drive vehicles. If you can not locate the labels, or you have used springs, make sure you mark the springs that you remove from your vehicle and match long with the long and the short with the short springs. Lately some springs are labeled A and B. A is for Australian driver side, so in the US this should go on the passenger side and B should go on the driver side.......Great Video minus the springs !
New to the channel. I found it very informative and thank you for adding the torque spec. Looking forward to binge watching all your videos. Stay safe out there and stay cool. Aloha from Kansas
Awesome vid! Only rip of advice, when tightening the rear shocks (top bolts) be aware you can accidentally tear 2 wires that will cause 4 lights in the dash. Hard to get to to rewire but is possible
@@PhoRunner any recomanations for putting a slight lift (maybe an inch or 1.5 higher than the front) on a sagging rear end on a 3rd gen?? I'm OK with the factory height on the front but I wanna fix that rear sag.
I just bought an 99' 4runner last weekend. Prev owner has a spacer lift so def wanna replace that with some OME lift kit. Your videos are def gonna help me out on my future build
Patience is key! I almost built my entire truck on parts I found at the salvage yard and super slick deals! I wasn't looking and when they popped up, I grabbed them. Got the mod bug after that lol.
Another great informative video, thanks. Do you have a video or will be doing a timing belt/water pump service video. Have you done a video on rear disc brake for the 3rd gen 4Runner , any opinions on that?
Thats a nice clean 3rd gen. That frame looks perfectly rust free. I had a very similar set up on my 98, except that I had the Tacoma 5100s paired with the 99 (tall) springs up front set on the middle ring, with the OME 890s in the back paired with the FJ80 OEM Tokikos. If I may make a suggestion, get the diff drop for the front. My front was probably lifted no more than 1.75" from stock, and I tore 3 CV boots in a few years. Replacing CVs gets old fast. On the forums they'll tell you the CV boots will be fine without a diff drop until you get up to around 3" lift. But in my experience that's just not true.
The CV boots are ripped on these now!! It's odd because my 3rd gen has no issues and i'm on 883 OME (3" lift). I guess not spinning all the time helps with this problem!
Thank you very much. This is the easiest install I have seen on RU-vid. I have been preparing to install a 2" lift and replace the old worn suspension. I like 2" lifts as it usually doesn't require additional suspension mods. Anything else I must change? I will run 265/75/r16 KO2s. Much appreciated.
Definitely change out the lower balljoints before doing any mods as I suspect the "shock" in the system with the new lift causes failure haha. Just a theory but maintenance before mods. Outside of that, this lift is stress free and good to go.
You'll also want to consider installing a new adjustable panhard bar on the rear axle. Even when lifting 2" the rear axle will shift a little to the passenger side, so your rear wheels won't be tracking perfectly with the front wheels. I learned this the hard way with my 3rd gen I just bought that already had a 3" Toytec lift on it-mine was about 1" shifted to the passenger side. I used a Sonoran Steel adjustable panhard bar to fix it. I really wish I could drop mine (cheaply) down to a 2" lift. It drives terrible with a wobble coming in at 45-50mph...now I have to install new upper control arms to get the alignment correct to fix the high speed wobble. Grrrr!
@@zuzu27 lift came out well. I do feel a vibration at 75, but assume it is tires. If it can't be balanced I may check the panhard. These 4runners seen to have more geometries at work than my Tacoma's and tundras.
Great videos! You make it so easy to follow along! You should look into doing a sunroof replacement next. Can't seem to find a good "how to" video and would LOVE to have you do one. My motor works and it makes a click but I think the rails are all gunked up.
I want you to know I love your channel and the simple way you explain how you do things! I wish you lived close I would pay for help on some of my 3rd gen projects 😅
Awesome video! Great way to remove old coil overs and install new coil overs. I'm hoping this works with kdss.. We stall see..lol. Thanks again for a Great video..
Really good vid thanks. I note you didn't use a rear sway bar correction. Kit.. How's stock working with the lift? Also. Front end drop links.. I've heard folks use 2nd gen.. Any thoughts.. Thanks again
no complaints so far. I think 2" is real close to stock that it doesn't matter. Remember that the 1999 4runner (highlander) has a 1" lift coil stock so getting these to 2" won't affect much. That's why it's my favorite lift for these 4runners. On my rig, I run 2nd gen links in the front. Seem to be fine.
Hello. I have a 99 T4R, stock. If I utilize this 2" inch setup with the tundra coils , will I need to change out to any aftermarket control arms or other suspension components or can I run stock with no issues?? Any info would be appreciated...Thanks and keep posting !!
@@PhoRunner oh ok cool man. I'm really trying to find a 3rd gen I've never owned one but trying to get educated best I can. What about 32s on a 2 inch lift together?
Good job 🙂👍 Молодец чувак! У меня тоже в планах заменить амортизаторы. Но очень уж они дорогие, Бильштайны. Well done dude! I also have plans to replace the shock absorbers. But they are very expensive, Bilstein. Perhaps I will put another manufacturer.
@@PhoRunner yeah I re-watched that bit a couple of times and realized I completely missed where you used the stubby ratchet _in_ the shaft at the top, doh. Got it all installed and working great! Thanks a bunch!
Great Channel, thanks! I just used your video to do my 2" lift install. Will my stock upper control arms be adequate and have enough droop to ensure even tire ware or should I consider upgrading those?
Awesome video, do you think this simple lift kit will add more stress to the CV boots and rear diff system? I’m thinking about doing this to my 2002 SR5 4runner. Thanks brother!
Doubt you’ll see this but I’ll try. What size tire did your friend have on his 2” lift 4 Runner? The sexy one that looked like yours. Thanks for the great video!
Good stuff, again! I think you did another one of these for your ride, but I appreciate you doing another on your friend’s ride. I always learn something different on each of your videos.My 4Runner already had a lift when I bought it; however, I just happened to be checking around the other day, and I noticed the spring isolator (cone) is missing on both sides in the rear. How much of a problem do you think that is? I’m concerned because the spring basically has no “buffer” against the metal it is pressed against.
Thanks, again, for this. I ended up grabbing some spring isolators (cones) from the junk yard to install on top my coils. I removed the coils after unscrewing the sway bar links and shock bolts (just the lower ones). That driver side was a bear (as you mentioned in the video), but once again, I used the bottle jack for the win! It was tricky b/c I didn't remove my shocks (they're relatively new Bilsteins from a previous lift), so I didn't have much room to pull the coil out and then push it back in (that was the worst part). The passenger side was a breeze. Thanks for making it easier for the rest of us!
What’s the advantage of using the Tundra 5100s vs ones designed for a 4Runner? Do you know what the Tundra spring numbers are, I.E. 600 lbs, 650 lbs etc.?
I'm not sure if 98 is different or not, but the furthest back tophat nut has nearly no clearance to get a tool on it. Not really sure what to do. And I don't know what tool would fit back there to cut it
Finally getting around to my lift have all rears ordered, but curious what to do for fronts. Either tundra coils like in this video, or with OME 883s in your other video, what did you prefer? And research on the two lifts? Thanks your videos help out a lot
You’ll need some of my other mods. Check my playlist. The upper controls might hit. I suggest ko2 or km3 since they run smaller. You’ll have less issues clearinf
Such a good video! Wanted to do my 2001 4runner and this is going to help a lot! Question?? for the front, you mentioned you assembled it yourself. Am I able to buy that exact set up preassembled? And if not, is it hard to assemble myself?
Is it necessary to add castor correction bushing for 2inch lift? If I go without it will the lift affects my steering? I haven’t ask any mechanic yet mostly I googled that subject but nothing gives me definitive answer. Thanks great video BTW
Very helpful video, Im just wondering about any long lasting negative effects? I just bought my runner and im wanting to lift it I just dont wanna cause any damage (parents would be furious)
@@PhoRunner I was seeing CV grease after doing my2" lift, but I couldn't find any damage to the boots. Turns out what happened was hyperextending the linkage to get the front struts in/out literally squeezed the grease out of the outer boots and loosened the boot clamps a little bit. Replacing the clamps fixed everything right up.
Lol sadly I wouldn’t have the time even if I wanted to. I have another technique for non assembled struts I want to try and film. Should help some of you guys out since most don’t come preassembled and spring compressors suck lol. Nor cal isn’t too far from me!
Great video as always but do have a big fat question regarding my 01 4Runner. So far I've installed both the rear Bilstein 5100s and OME 906 coils but have recently started experiencing extra stress on my front shocks (and likely LBJs!). I'd like to go ahead and put the 5100s on the front but I'm unsure as to what coil I should use. I have a brush guard on the front so I'm leaning toward the OME 2883 (because of the extra weight) but have read the OME 2883's ride quality will be "extremely rough" unless enough front weight is added. Also, there's a user review on the OME 2880 (on Amazon) that says the 5100 is not compatible with the OME 2880: "According to Bilstein you can not use the OME 2880 spring with Bilstein 5100 adjustable front struts because the spring is too tall and it keeps the strut maxed out and it causes the strut seal to fail. The Bilstein 5100 adjustable strut is only tested with and designed for the stock 4runner spring. I learned the hard way by causing my strut to fail and go to leaking." - Brent Robertson Anyways, my current front springs seem to be in decent shape. Could I possibly take out the old spring and use the 5100s instead? (as mentioned in the comment above). Or do you suggest using the OME 2883 or even the 2881? P.S. I have not come across any other reviews that talk about the incompatibility of the 5100s with other OME coils. Sorry for the long comment! Thanks in advance! Hope you've had a nice weekend :)
The 5100 instructions do say they aren’t compatible with ome but many have ran it. I ran 880, 881, and 883 (currently) and they all fit fine. It definitely fits in there so not sure what the reviewer is talking about. I ran 880s for a few years and 881 for about a year then now 883 for over a year now. The 5100 aren’t leaking. For 906, id probably run 881 with that weight on lowest perch. Maybe 2nd perch but the front might be taller so I’d do lowest perch to see.
Hmm there’s a seal right here the oil filter that’s easy to get to. I think that’s probably what you’re talking about. Is it leaking on the driver side?
I’ve been wondering the same. There are a couple of good videos on replacing the oil cooler seals (and one guy takes the cooler off and cleans it up); however, I realized later they’re 2WD in those videos and easy to reach, and when I tried to get to mine (4WD), it’s nearly impossible to get any kind of tool near the oil cooler because of the differential, etc.
