4 Ways to Remove a Stubborn Barrel Part 2! 

4:21 i know a gunsmith thats restaurating for a state owned millitary historian museum collection In case they can not get the barrel out when its cold (they have a vibrating tool as well ) they heat the reciever while blowing cooled nitrogen or CO2 through the bore and chamber this way the barrel does not expand that much within the reciever (they use ~300°C hot air) and cool pressurized nitrogen tanks to ~ -20°C before they hook it up and use it witch of course gets it way colder when the nitrogen is expanding sometimes the barrel shrinks enough to just screw it out by hand they also just cook it like when you rust blue it to convert rust and make it that way also break easier loose they also have a electric inductive reciever heater within a reciever holder for a few systems Mauser G and K98, Mannlicher M95, and Lee Enfield variants

I have had this Spanish Mauser with a 7 x 57 Brent Barrel in it for a year and couldn’t get it out of there I cut around it with a hacksaw like you said. Then used the hairdryer,,tried to tighten it just an eighth and it moved then it screwed out. Thank you for sharing your experience,,, I just ordered a 308 barrel for it you saved an action from just sitting in a parts box.

Some sights are soldered on. I thought solder melted at around 800 F. Thoughts?

I have never had the freeze method work for me. I use a heat gun and an infared thermometer and heat it to around 200 to 230 degrees. That works 99% of the time. Tightening slightly and loosening also works occasionally but heat by far works the best. Most manufactureres and gunsmiths do not loctite barrels on. If they do they are idiots. There is zero reason to loctite a barrel. I have never seen a barrel come loose even with somewhat sloppy fit threads. What causes barrels to stick in the action threads is usually years of oil that has dried up or grime that has slowly worked its way into the threads. A little heat usually softens it enough to break loose. I have had some barrel pop so loud when breaking it loose it almost makes your ears ring. Makes you pucker for a second that maybe you just snapped the action in half.

temp sticks are like crayons to understand how hot the metal is, it melts depending on what ones you buy, more than one time use!

I stick the receiver in a toaster oven set at 225 for 15 min then soak it in Kroil. Back in oven for ten min and usually comes off. I guess I should mention I modified the oven by cutting a hole in the side of it large enough for barrel to slide through.

This looks loke a 1917 action?

Great tips, Thanks for sharing -jim

Don't heat the barrel heat action cool barrel.

I know that 325F will start to draw temper in high carbon steel and max temp for roller bearings is 310F in machinery. I would use a laser temp gun and stay under 250F myself.

thanks so much for the video

Great videos- part 1 and 2. What is the proper way to remove scope base with red loctited screws? I read to use a soldering iron and heat up screws? I guess that alternatively I can use a hair dryer or propane (blue bottle). I take it heat gun is a no no. Thoughts and recommendations?

What about boiling water? It self regulates at a maximum 212 degrees Fahrenheit.

Soak it in Brownells Steel White for about 4 hours.

You said, 200 or 300 mark...is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?

You mean your not supposed to put the reciever in the action wrench then clamp the action wrench in a vise and cut off the barrel at a out 3 inches long then weld a big nut onto the barrel stub then use a half inch impact with a socket to get it out???🤣

Ok I’m dying to know what are you gonna put on that P 17 receiver are you changing it form 30/06 to a different caliber ???

For additional help in loosening the barrel, put a loaded 30-06 cartridge in the chamber as you heat the barrel. When you hear a loud POP, and your ears start ringing, she's probably loose enough to remove. 👍🏼😁 PS. Don't try this method if you have a brain. 😄 Sorry, I had to throw some comedy in here, as I have a 1903 Springfield that has remained a bugger to remove the barrel. Sadly, it awaits a new Criterion Barrel, sitting loose besides the barreled action. *Sigh.* I wish it was a 1917 anyway.

Soak with Liquid Wench, put on dash of truck on sunny day!

Where did you learn your Shop Math? You said get the steel to expand a 10th of an inch? A 10th of an inch is the difference between a .38 and .357 cartridges. Furthermore 200-300F is way too hot. I would never use a Torch or exceed 170F. That’s using much finesse as possible and a Heat Gun. A properly manufactured Barrel and Action Wrench that supports the parts as much as humanly possible is necessary. Anyone who would change a Barrel without checking the Receiver for cracks (Magnetic Particle Inspection) is toying with catastrophic results. Stupid things like “Fire Forming” cases for obsolete rounds and not checking Head Space properly is another recipe for total disaster.

Jeez get to the point man

How you do this is to take it to a REAL gunsmith not some wanker who thinks he is a gun smith.Ask him what gun smithing school he went to? This is the case that a little knowledge and i mean very little is a dangerous thing.