Tips on recognizing worthwhile saws and how to prepare and use them. Visit: www.blackburnbooks.com to order books, and to enquire about or sign up for individual and small group lessons in Woodstock NY.
I know exactly that I have to clean the garage. But lets be honest, is there a more joyful way of procrastination than learning about vintage hand tools from this absolute master of a creaftsman? 💪😁
What an excellent class! Never in my life, despite my constant curiosity in the mystery of this tool, have I had such a profound explanation. Thank you so much!
I just bought a Disston D8 rip saw and this video was really timely! I’m looking forward to learning more about good sawing technique and form! Thank you!
Excellent video as always, Graham! I'm a little behind on my viewing, but am trying to catch up! I'm still reading book two of the Illustrated Workshop, by the way. It's full of great information and excellent illustrations! Thank you very much.
Thank you Graham. I have an old Disston saw hanging on my wall which needs attention! Ill wait however for the video on rip and cross cut saws, so i can confirm the tooth pattern - as it seems to be a hybrid of both...
Great informative video! Thank you, Sir! I have an issue more with re-sawing and rip cuts. I do what you say with following both guidelines, and I'm good for about 3 inches or so, then the saw will start to drift away. Now, that's either my imbalance of body force or an inadequate saw. My saw choices are really not good at all. But with the knowledge you give in your videos on saws, they show me that I might have better results with a proper saw. So, thank you again.
Even the finest dovetail saws only have approx. 17-20 tpi. And you use a very fine file for them. Never heard of a saw with 42 tpi. Hard to imaging what the file for that might look like.
Another great video, thank you. I was given a toolbox full of old tools and I have managed to get most of them in fairly good working order. One of the handsaws is markedly concave, rather than crowned, in the centre. Does it matter and is it worth trying to change it? My first thought was yes it is but presumably the owner used it like it is or he wouldn’t have carried it round in his tool chest.
this video is the first i ever heard of saw crown. i understand the logic but not sure it would apply to every cutting situation. If the saw is sharp i would just use as is to get a feel for what it can and can't do like how much tear out and splintering happens or how accurate it can cut to a specific depth. then you can first hand experience what changed after you sharpen or reshape it.
Some saws are made with crown and some straight. I've never heard of or seen a saw with a purposely concave tooth line. This might have happened if the prior owner sharpened repeatedly without jointing the teeth. Personally I'd make it straight, but like you said, the previous owner probably used it as it is. It just might have been a little harder to push towards the end of a stroke because those rear teeth would dig in a bit more.
@@mattmcgrane8975 Good point about end of stroke dig in. I have a folding Fisker pruning pull saw and i rather it not be super concave for that exact reason come to remember it.
@@vince55sanders Following your comment I decided to try some resawing and compare this saw to the, very expensive, Lynx handsaw I bought specifically for rip cutting. To my surprise I found that I liked it better. It seemed to be just as fast ( it has 6tpi compared to 4.5 tpi on the Lynx), to give a similar finish and was less likely to wander from the line. As a result it will become my go to saw for this type of work. Thank you for igniting the spark.
Great video! One question: wouldn’t grinding down the side of the teeth to remove set, as you did here, unnecessarily thin down each tooth making them more brittle and less durable as compared to the hammer method? Or would the difference be negligible in your opinion?
Using a sharpening stone and just running it down each side really works. It does not thin the metal but a hair. Plus if the saw is cutting to the left or to the right running the stone down it a few times on that side will lessen the set and make it cut better and not draw that direction. Newer saws have more brittle teeth than older ones and harder metal some you may not be able to sharpen from hardware stores etc. An older saw even if a tooth or two are missing since you will be sharpening the teeth will slowly go down and you will make that tooth again.
What is the largest commonly available rip saw among vintage saws? I'm looking for a 4 ppi rip saw. The largest I'm coming across is a 28" plate. Thank you
You mentioned that the numbers on the sawset represents the ppi on the saw. However, the contrary is true. It is widely taught and accepted that the numbers do not correspond to the ppi on a saw. Do you have any evidence to refute this claim and what is your source?
Some metal sawsets have rotating anvils with multifacetted faces at different angles numbered to conform to the expected angle of set for saws with that number of TPI for the individual saw. Not perhaps what is always required, which is why I explained the process of diminishing the produced set after setting with a file.
"Lots of them are available if you go to a yard sale" - no, they're not. They used to, but not anymore, all grounds are pretty much picked clean to the bone by ebay vendors.
Tru and the ones you do find are overpriced. Not compared to new but you have to put in a lot of work to get them going..old tools sell for too much money these days..😢😢
