Thanks for the inspiration. I just got done pulling my 42RE valve body, cleaned it fully with bench buddies, replaced the solenoids and installed a shift kit. Everything is working great. It was an adventure I am glad I went on and I would have never had the balls to do it without your videos! Thanks again!
This was way out of my league but I could not stop watching! Beautiful craftsmanship. Especially putting that c clip in at the end. There is something they call "fine motor skills." It describes the way someones hands work. Something you probably don't think about, but God gifted you in the "fine motor skill department." Thanks again. May God Bless you
What a great video! Without this video I would never want to attempt to do my own 48RE. But after watching this video a few times now I am sure i can do it no problem. Thanks so much for taking the time to share this information with us all. Love your Videos!!!
Great video! This is one of the best videos I have watched on the 48RE. Thank you for doing the extra video work and for providing such detail in your descriptions. This really helped me a lot.
Gotta say Hiram.. You did an impeccable job putting together this video for others. I used it to help me assemble my VB in my srt10. Keep up the good work bud.
Thanks alot karnal... i got a 97 jeep grand cherokee with a 42RE.. tryin to learn everything I can about it to improve it as much as I can.. this video is very informative.. especially at the end
fgalaviz00 Me too, but a 99 with the 42RE here. Did you understand where exactly that check ball is on cooler line? Is it right up against the transmission or nearer to the radiator?I had no idea one was even in there...
Love that Comatose by Skillet is playing in the background. Nice video! It will help me a lot in the next couple months when I tackle a 48re rebuild on my own.
Thanks for the tips! This gave me the confidence to do this myself, but I think I messed up somewhere. For some reason, it sometimes doesn't shift into 3rd gear. When it does, it does good. Seems there's no rhyme nor reason to it. And I even followed your video 100%, including holding the separator plate above my shift valve body while drilling holes, and using a power tool to screw the body back together.
good job, i find it much easier to install the park rod and e-clip onto the vb while its on the bench. Then install it as a unit into the transmission. Just have to rotate the output a little bit to get the rod to line up. Seems to work much easier, i always drop that stinkin e-clip.
Great job Hiram, another awesome video! Can you make a video that shows you cleaning the parts and maybe discuss some of the things to avoid when cleaning?
Man, when you were trying to get that e-clip on the shifter shaft I was thinking, screw us viewers, move the camera so you can see! LOL. Great job. Love to watch your work. You're really good at what you do and make it look easy. Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge.
I am about to buy a dodge Cummins that will likely have this transmission. I plan to install a valve body kit to help the transmission hold up better behind that Cummins.
Thanks for not just stopping at the valve body section. That tip about the check ball on the cooler line on 42REs is gold! Your videos are so inspiring. Is that check ball right up against the transmission or is it up by the radiator?
Awesome excellent videos.Its like a art.Very fine and detailed.Mr.Gutierrez I know this is way off the subject for this video.Can you please make a complete tear down and rebuild video for B4RA transmission.It goes into a 1997 Honda Civic 1.6L D16Y8 motor.I know you are very familiar with this transmission.I just need help pretty bad.Thanks
excellent demonstration video. It is obvious you know what you are doing and you are very familiar with this transmission.I have a 2003 dodge ram 2500 2 wd I am about to install a 10 foot heavy truck camper on it. I am also interested in upgrading a vb kit in and want to determine the health of the tranny before I get stuck at the side of the road due to carrying a heavy load in a truck with 124k miles. Thanks for the video
THANKS....watched every min. good stuff, will come in handy when i put in my cascade shit kit.Wheres the check ball in the cooler line. i want to get rid of it....let us know....
Hey Hiram, Your a real pro at this. Do you do mail in repair? Im replacing my front band on my 48re. But want to do a shift kit while in the bottom of the trans.
I think this is great of u to do all the video's. But I wish u lived in Mass and could tell us if it's our transmission on our car that might be the reason why we are having with our car, If u have a way for me to contact u to ask u questions please let me know. Thank you so much
Love your vids. Some of the best tech I have found on the Internet. Maybe you can shed some light: 2006 48re with no tcc apply. All gears shift fine. Replaced all electronics. Added lockup switch. Adjusted bands. Added DNJ gov sol conversion. You mentioned the boost valve clip breaks... Could this bleed off Tcc apply pressure and stop my truck from locking up?
Great video Hiram. I have a 07 Dodge 3500 w/5.9 that is getting a P1740 alarm and will not go into torque lockup like it used too. It shifts and drives fine other than not going into lockup. I have change solenoids, transducer and torque lockup solenoid and still having the alarm. I installed a Transgo shift kit in after watching you video thinking it will make the pressure go up a little and make it lockin harder. After installing the Transgo kit, the only difference is it goes from 1st to 2nd to 3rd extremely quick. I am debating about torque converter but would like your opinion before moving forward. It does go into torque lockup at times under a load pulling a trailer but its random when it happens.
Transmission performance? I had my transmission rebuilt and it was poorly done. Within 11000 miles the torque burned out, They replaced it, the truck transmission would never perform as it was designed. I visited several transmission places and all said the guy did a bad job Daaa; and should have put in new or rebuilt the valve body, because that was the problem. I was broke and did not have the money to spend $3500.00 (?) for another rebuild. So, I have been driving around the country in my 98 Dodge 2500 Ram Diesel, 5.9 w$2500.00 turbo and a fuel plate, with an 47re automatic transmission, w/no trailer and also w/a horse trailer, I never got over 14 MPG, but I did get poor shifting and no automatic down shit on hills and no passing gear. There was No slippage during this period and presently there is no slippage. I was doing some routine work on the truck and was researching on RU-vid. I found this video and watched it. This is the most astute, detailed, clear and concise demonstration I have seen on the functionality, purpose and diagnostic video I have seen on the Throttle Position Sensor. I watched it several times. Each time I was able to more clearly understand the affect and effect this sensor created in relation to the transmission. I had several and more Transmission “Experts” tell me the problem with my 98 Dodge Ram, Diesel, 47RE transmission was: everything BUT“ the Throttle position sensor. I removed the Throttle Assembly for the purpose of installing new bushings. I thought, while I had the sensor off I would replace it if it was bad. I took the sensor to three garages and they tested it with an Ohms meter and for free saying, Its working…not one of them tested the mechanical function of the sensor. :( I carried the Bell,Crank, Lever and sensor with me to the several Parts place; to insure I would buy the correct bushings. When asking for the Bushings, I had them also test the Sensor, all said it was good, I thought Oh” good I save $, again none of them tested the mechanical function of the sensor. I was playing with the Sensor while I was at the Parts counter, Just messing around, I stuck my Dodge ignition key into the Cam slotted twisting it open and letting it return to it resting position. I did it many times and then I noticed the Cam was easy to turn and slow to return. When they tested the Sensor for resistance, I ask them about the Cam spring loaded movement, they said it was supposed to work that way. OK:) I went back to the house and watched the complete video again. This time I paid close attention to the Bell Crank lever. During the re-assembly the person in the video pushed the Lever several times and when release, the lever would spring back to the neutral position. The person in the video said, when the throttle position changes, the sensor send a signal to the transmission, to change its function, when the throttle is released the Bell Crank lever, being spring loaded snaps back to the numeral position and again the sensor sends a signal to the transmission and it responds to that throttle position. I tested my sense and, as I learned while at the Parts place it did not spring back to the numeral position, in fact it would only go so far on its return action and then quit moving, I took a little screw driver and inserted into the Cam slot and rotated the cam back to the neutral position. I did this many times and decided this function of the Sensor was not performing as it was designed to. I went back to the O”Rileys, Part Place, bought a new Sensor, tested it on the sport and it functioned properly. I went home installed the sensor on the assembly and reinstalled the assembly. I drove the truck down street and immediately was shocked in the 1000% improvement in the performance. Although I was excited, I thought I would still drive the truck down a long winding the hill to the river and back up the same hill. I was ecstatic over the results. It was like driving a new truck. I said, OK lets see what happens when I press the throttle for the passing gear to kick-in, Boy did it. I was totally happy and relieved. My truck was finally operating like a power house that it was.
Great presentation, I'm about to install the Superior version of the shift kit on my 42RE and this helped me get a good idea of what to expect even though its slightly different from the Transgo kits. Just did a rebuild of the rest of the transmission, and although its working pretty good, I would like to firm up the shifts some. One question, where is the checkball on the cooling line, I was not able to find one, though it may be that the previous owner already took it out.
Hiram, tengo una Ram 2500 diesel con una 48 RE con sobre marcha, fue reparada por alguien que al parecer no tiene mucha experiencia. El problema que tengo, cuando pasa de 3ra a 4ta queda libre de tracción y las revoluciones se llevan , hasta que nuevamente engancha y hace el cambio si reduzco la aceleración, es problema de placa de válvulas mal armada?, el convertidor?
Por ahora la uso casi, creo que el problema esta en alguno de los discos, todavía no tome coraje de sacarla, es muy pesada, pero ya lo haré y te cuento
excelent job hiram,i have a 2002 dodge ram with a 46 re transmission and all this videos help me a lot, the only queation i have for you is all the drilling that you did to the valve body it's a must or you can just replace everything else? or what that doest? thank robert hernandez
Hello! I installed this kit exactly as in the video and now I have the problem that the transmission shifts very hard when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear.. what can be the reason? Thanks!
Hi Hiram, can I ask you a question?.. in 17:08 minutes, you remove the two springs and valves from the valve body..there are not the same strength, could you tell me which one of them is the stronger spring? i was disarming the same part and the springs flew away
Hi Hiram or anyone who can help me! Hahaha! I am writing to you from Chile .. my 48re engage and disengages, engage and disengages from 1 to 2.... ..It is more frequent when I go uphill and with little of gas. does anyone know how to fix it ?? thanks!
Hello Hiram whats your opinion on the ford 6F35 Transmission,and that you have to remove the unit and split it in half to change the filter/pump, which is one unit?
Is there a way i can test and chexk the lock up solenoid if its working? My truck torque converter seems to be lock, the truck wanna keep moving forward at stops and motor starts to choke up. Or is o my TC?
hI fRIENDI AM 70YEARS OLD AND LIVE 20 MILES SOUTH OF Birmingham. I am just beginning my phase of learning. Do you have a set of these books extra. I will just be building for friends and relatives. I might add just for fun! Thanks Don
Hello great video very helpful. I have a question. Is it normal for my 48re to go into lockup while in manual 2nd gear ? I have an 04 ram 3500 cummins. If its not normal any idea what could cause this ? The lockup also comes on right after OD at around 50 mph. Thank you and keep up the great work 👍 👍
could be the governor pressure sensor or solenoid. They're known to be problematic and cause shuttle shifting. Or the torque converter. But I'm no expert
@@ConTheDon187 the truck seems to shift pretty good except it shifts to smooth and im not sure what I can do to make it shift firmly. Is it not normal to lock up torque converter in manual second gear ? This is my first diesel truck. Thanks for your help👍👍
@@williambertone332 I'm not sure what you mean by lock up torque converter in manual. You could try adjusting your bands, but a shop with a decent scan tool could tell you, I'm not an expert with automatic transmissions, so some of the stuff I'm still learning about, but the torque converter shouldn't luck up until 35mph from what I read, so it should be locking up in 3rd and over drive. I'm pretty sure
@@ConTheDon187 no problem I will see what else I can find online. Thats the problem buying a used truck not knowing what has already been done. Thank you for your help.
@@williambertone332 Yeah I just bought an 06 3500 and it's low mileage but I've got a problem that I can't seem to find any good information about so I've been searching daily for any info that could help me, gotta love dropping 20 grand on a truck to find it may need a transmission haha
cant fall in love again but it was close and also not gay youve saved my couple times allready simple fast but not toofast an precise perfect for me cause time is likewise yeah
there are slight differences in the transmission its self, such as the 48 has steel planetaries, 46 are aluminum and the sun shell is thinner. The valve bodies are also different, but watching this video will get you by. Just follow the instructions that come with the trans-go kit and you will be good to go .
+omar monzo All torque converters have a clutch in it. For normal duty. When you start adding power to the engine the factory single clutch with get damaged. That also damages the transmission. If you add power to the engine, you will need to replace the converter for a 2 or 3 clutch converter AND installing a Shift Kit to the transmission.
