I was thinking of upgrading my 1-2 accumulator but it looks easy to do the 3-4 as well. Can I do both without removing the valve body? If I'm on my back on the ground, how would I hold the check ball up? Assembly gel? vaseline?
I have the same accumulator housing you showed in this video on my 01 transmission I have a purple outer sonnax spring a couple inners and a couple other stock outers and a enhanced performance 77704s spring not sure which inner and outer to use? Any advice?
What would cause my 2001 4x4 Suburban to shift super hard after descending off of a big hill? It will slam through gears until I shut it down and let it cool off a while.
My question might sound dumb but do i need to replace all accumulators in the unit to pinless or can i just replace the 1-2 accumulator since others are working fine.
So I can use the older housing on my 01 then? I don't have the waved spring or the spacer so I wanna use pre 01 style housing if I can? Need to know asap thank you.
My wife agrees, we always make sure that o-ring is lubed up......😏. Now seriously, I'm rebuilding a 97 Tahoe for my wife and part of that build is making the transmission is better performing for the mild engine mods I did. Her Tahoe will be around 320-350hp and 400tq. Is a basic Sonnax upgrade kit good enough? Should I add their Corvette servos as well?
Where can I buy that sanding stone you use on the case to valve body plate surface? I am not sure how coarse or fine it should be for just assuring flatness of aluminum valve body and mating surface.
The wave spring at 4:18 I ordered the sonnex pinless kit from Amazon but didn’t came with that wave spring my question is it safe to use it with out the wave spring??? Thanks
Hello ... Can you tell in more detail here in the comments, what is the iron plate for, and what does the new valve and spring do from this Sonnax set?
The separator plate is to change direction of fluid flow. And the valve with spring and plug change the apply for lockup and regulate the apply pressure.
i see people put the sonnax 4th accumulator piston in dome side down with spring, and then put the spring in and dome side up toward the vb plate. which way is right? or does it matter?
Im currently doing this on a suburban and the forword piston is WAY tight and when i put the little balls in they went in no problem. I dudnt need to jam them in. Is that a problem?
Is the first ball you jam down in the hole supposed to pop out the back side and go into where the valve is it's like hanging out a little bit if I look where the valves slide back-and-forth behind that
will the lock up spring work on a 03 4l60e. I have a kit from transmission bench which has that spring but states it's only for the 95 and below years. so I have to buy the sonnox valve.
What about if you are installing transgo hd-2 kit with the sonnax. i want to put spacer for a 1-2 shift firmness. Im be add 2 spacers for very firm shift. I want to know the correct order to install it. Please and thank you
That's not something recommend doing. If you want to mix that part that's entirely your decision and I wish you the best of luck with. Sorry I'm not much help with that one.
I have a hummer h3 2009 with 4L60E transmission.. When i put to D it takes about 2-3 seconds delay but R engagement is fine. Once it's engaged to D, driving is fine no delays and slipping..please help me in this matter...Thank you
I would recommend getting a pressure gauge on it. It could be warning signs of a forward clutch failure. A pressure test will give the direction to where the problem is withing the transmission.
Directions say dome goes case side. Perhaps the directions are different based on full shift kit vs stand alone part? Does it really matter what way it goes in?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 I was going to do the sonnax pinless piston just wanna know which spring would be best for a possibly firmer shift if it doesn't firm up well at least I know the plastic one is outta there.
I'm confused. You plastering no spacer all over the screen yet the instructions clearly say for 01 and later to use a spacer. Later must mean newer then 01 cause right under it it say 94 to 2000 doesn't need that spacer. You said your trans is an 03 so that would mean that it does need the spacer given what the instructions are saying. So please explain why the no spacer all over the screen.
I'm sorry for the confusion during the video. In the instructions it cals for the spacer to be installed in 94-00 accumulator body's. I worded it incorrectly during the video, our transmission was an 03 but had a 94-00 accumulator housing thus why we installed the spacer. Again very sorry for the confusion of that.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 LOL. You got it wrong again. You said that "In the instructions it calls for the spacer to be installed in 94-00 accumulator body's." and that's wrong haha. It's the other way around, 94-00 doesn't need the spacer..... but you said yours is the 94-00 style so I got-ya now, all is forgiven. 🙂 I do have a question for you though. Is there any advantage to using the 94-00 on a 01 and up trans? are the stronger or better in any way? thanks in advance for your answer.
I don't know of any technical reasons why it's better this one came that way is only reason it left that way lol and thanks for the comments I appreciate it
In my experience yes. The things to watch for are if the vehicle is retaining dod if it is then this kit should be a supplement to a sure cure kit without on off lock control change. If you have some specifics about your build I can answer more thoroughly
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 I’m building a vacuum tester to test the valve body to determine severity of the wear just didn’t know what kit to go with, does this kit take care of all the corrections in the valve body as the transgo sk, I know I still would go with the Sonnax accumulator pistons, and boost valve with the o-rings
Just had a 4l60e rebuilt and have went through 2 torque converts from the guy that rebuilt it but have the same issue every time. I get a very slow engagement when I go into drive. As if it’s almost not in drive until I reach around 1300 RPM and then it kicks in. Same for reverse. Then in OD, the RPM fluctuates 200-300 every few seconds unless I’m above 60. Any ideas what I can look at??? I’m tired of dealing with this guy.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 I have no had a pressure gauge hooked up to it. It’s a 97 model with PWM. The guy said he checked pressure on everything, not sure if that’s possible without it being in the truck.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 could I have that done at an auto parts store? I have the valve body taken off this morning. The forward accumulator was not replaced and seems worn out at the pin. Could this affect the engagement of 1st?
