Had to come by and comment, after watching this video and the rear main seal video several times I was confident enough to attack my rear main seal. It took 13 hours with a couple friends helping. Take your time and it will go fine. I did not drain the transmission, nor did I remove the driveshaft from the tail shaft. I wasn't sure, and am still not sure if the fluid would come out if I had pulled the drive shaft. We did experience some minor leakage from the dip stick tube hole in the trans but not much. Thank you again for this wonderful 4l60E series! PS to everyone reading comments, find your inner Zen before you thread the torque converter bolts back in. I dropped the first one into the bell housing. Luckily after several frustrating minutes I was able to snag it blindly with a magnet. It could have been pull the transmission again but I got lucky, take your time with this step!
@@dudewecanfixit Had I pulled the driveshaft out of the tail piece, would the fluid have leaked out? I have a suspicion that there is a seal and it wouldn't have but I could not find a definitive answer anywhere and this was a serious broke man budget fix, fluid would have pushed me over the shoe string budget.
@@dudewecanfixit I appreciate the feedback! I hope it helps someone reading the comments! Even without pulling the shaft it was only a minor inconvenience since I only had to roll the trans back enough to access the rear main seal. Thanks again!
Ne ways bout to pull my Tahoe trans ....I've watched your vid like 10 times ....I'll let you know how it works out...ps....didn't watch anyone else's vids
im starting my 96 burban rebuild today! but my exhaust is stuck on bc they tried to fix a leak with the putty stuff... gonna cut it off to get out the tranny =(
A few things to remember: 1. While this is common sense, you should remember that when you take off the Transmission support, have a jack with some wood to under the transmission pan to hold the weight of the transmission. If you don't it can put stress on your engine mounts, which can give you a completely different problem. 2. When undoing the gear selector cable (at least on my suburban) there was also a large metal clip that looks like an unused staple. You have to pull that out with a flat head screwdriver before you can squeeze it and pop it out of place. 3. There is another bolt that holds some lines above the connectors that you have to heat up. It looks like a 8mm bolt that holds a bracket to the driver's side of the transmission. 4. This is more of an observation of the video itself. While it was very helpful and to the point, there were a few key things missing that made me question some things. I did notice that there were a couple times where the transmission didn't look supported the entire time the support bar was gone. This can potentially cause damage to the engine and engine mounts. There were a few brackets/clips that were not mentioned. I figure that is probably due in part to the fact that he said this transmission has been taken off before, so it may not gave all of its original pieces. That being said this was an extremely helpful video. Though I would suggest adding the step of supporting the transmission.
Dude, you are the man!!! Thank You so very much for providing this video. Because of you I have officially saved myself about $1500-$2000. I paid a mechanic to replace my transmission about a month ago, and unfortunately the transmission lost the 3rd and 4th gear clutches about a week later. So instead of having to pay another 15k I was able to remove the transmission and send it off for repair and reinstall it afterwards. Keep doing the great work you do. You sir are a saint among men!! Thanks again.
Well done I watched it recently and now have completed removal, tear down, rebuild, and reinstall!!! Man excellent videos. My question is what happens if my transmission vent tube is broken and not in service
I really need help with something I’m in the middle of putting mine back in and I have 2 connectors and I don’t see them in your video I have no idea where they go
Awesome keep them coming this is how I fix things looking at RU-vid video on fix or repairs. I actually learned to change my own starter from video like this
Excellent video, I’ve been thinking of doing this and this is one of the only videos where this task is done on the floor. The 4K video also helps ton, don’t know how we survived the days of analog video. Also great attention to detail with steps others gloss over.
Thank you so much, you have no idea how much it means to me to hear this kind of feedback instead of the usual “you forgot something or could do this better”. Much appreciate it, please subscribe to my channel!
Would you suggest a beginner try to rebuild their own transmission for their first attempt? Also, I had this junk yard transmission, but should that 4L60e be programed in the ecm, to work properly? I'm asking because I have a 4.8LS, with a 4L60e installed in my 67 Oldsmobile Cutlass. The ecm was flashed from the vats, but not sure about the transmission.
I was told that the transmission won't work without being programmed in the ecm. I think not having the ecm programmed, burned out my 2nd, and 3rd gear.
RWD is a little more easier then having to deal with the 4WD crap but overall it's a pretty straight forward process either way, the only pain in the ass I usually run into when doing these are the exhaust bolts
Just finished replacing the rear main seal (RMS) on my Yukon and not a leak anywhere! Thanks guys for this awesome tutorial! Few tips for anyone attempting this repair. 1. Mark the position of the driveshaft at universal joint (paint marker) 2. Mark driveshaft at rear of transmission (paint marker) 3. Mark relationship of torque converter to drive plate through inspection plate at bottom of the trans. These must align during install. 4. Clean alignment dowels protruding from engine block and holes in the trans. Use some emory cloth to remove the rust and add a light coat of anti seize. Makes for smooth install. 5. RMS install. PTFE (newer style seal) goes in dry. No lube is necessary to install in seal to the RMS plate. 6. Clean RMS plate and engine block mating surfaces. Especially the bottom corners where the engine block meets the oil pan. Cleaned mine 3 times with brake cleaner.
Damn this is the best video i have watched on how to remove the transmission and I have watched a lot on here so far. You went in a great length of details and showed exactly what to do with plenty of light. Thanks for this video, no I just have to get up the nerve to swap mine out now. Thanks
Good video. Never been good with cars but is good to know that I can find this type of tutorial to make my process a little bit easier. Keep going, guys!
I’m going in to just replace the rear main. If I’m just pulling the transmission back is there enough room in the wire harness? Do I have to disconnect the exhaust? I guess what I’m asking is what parts of your video don’t need to be done if just sliding the trans back? TIA
Thanks! You helped me out alot! I finally have my 4L60E out of my c2500 and ready to put my new one back in. Couldn't have done it without you! 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼💯
You have no idea How helpful this is or will be. I have some transmission work to do in a few days and this was by far the most detailed how to video I have seen. Thank you so much.
You really wont need the heat gun unless you are going to replace safety switch,just unbolt it after cleaning shaft with sandpaper or file,or you could damage switch,its a little pricey!
Thank you the video breakdown. I used this as video reference for removing my engine due to a gouged piston head. The bell housing bolts on top were a bit inconvenient. However, I had previously removed the upper portion of the engine (intake, fuel lines, exhaust manifolds etc.) which made those top bolts very accessible. Again, thank you good sir!
Awesome video, y’all make it look easy!............have to replace my Rear Main Seal on my 03 Tahoe w/ 113,509 miles. I will only disconnect the trans and move it to the rear to get at the rear seal plate. Thanks again.
Commenting again because I'm doing another 4l60e.. this time on a yukon with AWD. Can I still drop the trans with the transfer case or do I need to remove the trans case prior to pulling the trans? There's a welded cross member that I think may he in the way.
One of the best repair videos I've seen in my life. Crystal clear, great angles, and straight to the point. Thanks for the work you guys put into this and saving me so much time by keeping this short!
All of this to get to the rear main seal??? Man, I hate vehicles. Just spent 3k and still have a oil leak. Rear main I’m assuming. They did oil pan seal and timing cover.
Hey man. Not really a commenter for videos but this video was a relief. I sure thought I'd be getting into more than I was. I just want to say though all over RU-vid every video for a rear main seal on the 5.3 starts o staring at the rear plate cover. There isn't a single start to finish rear main seal video. That's why yours came in handy so much. Shoot you might want to reupload this exact video under the name "getting to your 5.3s rear main seal" or something like that and im sure a lot of people would thank you for it. It was kinda tricky to find this video but man, thanks for the help, the guidance, and it was fun working with ya. (Now if only you could train that big ass dog to work a ratchet or at least bring your wrenches you'd be all set.)
Lol, thank you for the kind words! I appreciate the insight as well. The dogs love hanging out in the shop to see what's going on, but not to work unfortunately.
Agreed. After I removed the lines I remember I man here said reinstall the clips so you can just push the lines back in during install. What a time and frustration saver!
Super How to!!!! whats your average TIME to remove above tranny ...and if you had replacement,sitting on floor install it TIME...I know your Time will be faster than us average joes...But it will give us a ball park figure..THANK YOU sir
Thanks! I had my 4L60E transmission for a 2002 Chevy Express van lose 3-4 gear. I called shops that wanted a lot of money or refused the job. It was your videos that got my van working again. I was able to follow your instructions to remove the transmission myself with the needed info on using heat gun to un-glue connection and the close up of e-clip removal. I did send the transmission to a machine shop for repair but still was able to save over $ 2K because of your videos!
@@idecidenotyou Or, it was a decent thing to do? Dude made a Grade A video. Another guy saved $1000s of dollars based off of the guy's hard work. "that's was stupid" shows us a lot about you. Great video.
See now you might have had some great stuff but i will never know . Here why there is no way you appear to be stupid so you know one of the first obstacles for lots of people would have be after the 13mm nut come off the fuel line hold with out a way to open the line holder it will not slide back so a socket can be placed on it .Its hard to reach its hard to see. Are you doing this because you feel were so stupid you need to walk us thru the cleary obvious? Does it not matter if it helps anyone. Cause you got your click already?? I dont know so I gues I will leave it with good luck .
Most professional, straight forward, easy to understand videos I've watched for one of the more complex undertakings. Considering doing this project myself one of these days but putting it off as it's such a slight leak. I'm sure myself amongst others after watching this now say "I can do it!" then when it comes time I'm sure I'll run into 27 unexpected problems and delays as I do with most of my repair projects 😮
Out of the hundreds of 4l60e's I've taken out, that drain plug came out about maybe 7% of the time lol I don't even try to remove it anymore lol and why so many videos of clean undercarriage two wheel trucks lol, how about a video on a rusty 4wd 2004 dodge Durango from wisconsin.😂😆
I have a bolt that came off a 99 Yukon transmission or transfer case. The10 mm bolt is about 1¹/² inches long. The tip of the bolt has no threads. Someone give me an idea where it goes? Much appreciated
How do you get the transmission dipstick out if it’s completely snug and doesn’t budge at all? Y’all did it so quickly without problems and mine is not allowing it. I can’t even get a solid grip from the top.
The instructions are awesome. However, one of the 3 torque converter bolts will not budge. Try to heat as well as soaking it with PB blaster. Does anybody have any idea how to fix this?
Ooh, that's not good. Have you tried the impact? If the bolt head breaks off, you can remove the transmission and replace the converter. Or try to get the rest of the bolt out on a bench.
hey man wondering if you could help me out I have a 2011 Silverado with 4l60e I have first and second gear doesn’t catch 3rd or 4th. What could he the issues I was thinking about replacing the shift solenoids and the torque converter solenoid
How did you get the transmission low enough to get the top bolts on the bell housing off Because I had to get them up from the top of the engine because I have no room on the bottom
We remove the cross member first and then lower the jack. Remove the top bolts first and then support the weight of the transmission with the jack and remove the bottom bolts
Hey guys, I'm a 33 year old self mechanic. Meaning, I only do work on my own vehicles. Well, with this well put together tutorial, I was able to run by the scrap yard and pull off a 4l60e transmission, alone, it took me all of 5 hours while watching this video in the process. I ran into some minor problems such as one of the torque converter bolts was super tight and had to use a breaker bar to get it off, which was hard in such limited space. But, overall I was able to remove the whole assembly by myself and I am here to say thank you very much for helping me along my tranny removal job. Time to install now on my truck. Hope you have an install video somewhere for the 4l60e.
