Doing an oil change after a rebuild. I found the 8mm pressure module bolts stripped, a solenoid clip installed to the side of the solenoid holding it in and plastic accumulators. Tech did put in a shift kit but what's the use if all the other parts are crap? Bought pinless accumulators, replaced the stripped 8mm bolts with studs (there's about 1/2 inch of good thread in the bolt hole) and replaced all the O rings with Viton. if you have the time and tools, watch these videos a few times and do it yourself.
I will flex hone the bore on certain units that have bonded pistons when using teflon rings I prefer just to clean the bore and remove any burs caused during disassembly
A couple more questions ... is it worth drilling holes in the spacer plate? Should you plug the hole with an aluminum rivet? They are interconnected, a rivet and a new valve with a spring?
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Say, I understand correctly? After I put the rivet, install the valve with the spring from the kit, the torque converter will be in constant engagement, thereby it will stop dumping gear from fourth to third when accelerating? Or I'm wrong?
Awesome video. I’m having a hard 1-2 shift after she warms up . Also have a short delay once every other month with forward drive. Had it rebuilt about 70k miles ago. Had the issue very early on but I couldn’t duplicate the problem when I took her to the tranny shop so I kept getting turned away. I’m going to be replacing the 1-2, 3-4, and forward accumulator pistons with the sonnax pin less accumulator pistons. Thoughts? BTW I like the music. Relaxing 😎
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Thanks for the quick response! Btw she’s a 2005 Suburban with 4L60E. She’s not throwing any codes for slip. Should I be changing out the valve along with the EPC solenoid if the line pressure is low?
I would get a pressure gauge on it and verify low line. A worn afl valve bore can cause all of these complaints. Also when you pull the vb down make sure you check the plate for excess wear in the check ball holes.
@@expressautotransmissiondav4207 Well I got the valve body down and the check balls were different sizes. Looks like the tranny shop grabbed whatever random check balls they could and put them in the valve body. Also valve body bolts were super tight. Think I’ll go ahead and buy the Torton balls for her. Doesn’t look like the valve body has excess wear in the check ball holes. Will I need the 0.250” check balls?
Yep yep definitely want all the same size balls good catch also make sure the back three bolts that hold the separator plate on are torqued while your there.
Friend, it seems to me that you did not put the battery piston 3-4 correctly ... According to the manual, the spring should be on top ... Correct me if I'm wrong ...
@@james10739 11. Pinless 3-4 Accumulator Installation a. Remove accumulator pin. NOTE: Pin bore is blind in this location, so there is no need to plug with any checkball. b. Install D-ring toward dome with PTFE seal toward open end. Install dome toward case (Figure 15). c. Install Sonnax 3-4 accumulator spring.
Can you guys sell me a good valve body doesn't need any mods just need a good valvebody without leaks and bad bores I can't afford the reamer. Really enjoy your videos but I've done my rebuild last thing I was checking my vb and it's got bores must be worn leaking pressure.
