4WD Mini Trophy Truck Build - Part 19 

Wouldn't be a Sunday afternoon without a great segment from you Chris. Amazing work in my opinion.

Hey Chris, just a quick suggestion for sound deadening on those aluminum panels. They are thin so they will resonate sound A LOT. You could cover every possible panel with killmat, dynamat, etc. It’s already going to be loud so maybe this will help a bunch. I did this with a side by side of mine and it helped a ton. Don’t worry about how long it takes man, we enjoy projects that take several months or even years. I enjoy build videos more than the test ride videos, personally. This is my favorite project of yours yet, especially because you added doors like the chat suggested. Thank you!

Looking great. Don’t do acrylic for the chain tunnel, do lexan. It won’t shatter and explode if the chain comes loose and hits it.

We need more people with creativity like this guy to just go and make the coolest homemade stuff ever 🔥💯🇺🇸

If you use Steel tubing for the coolant lines along the chain area there won't be a leak if the chain hits 1 a bit.Rubber lines are too easy to puncture compared to them.Awesome work so far Chris.I think it would be great to ride in.

One of the most satisfying makers to watch on the platform, fast pace, chirugical precision, love all the projects, thanks !

You could mount the teflon runners with a thin piece of rubber mat between them and the steel. Would quieten them further 👍👍 I love this build

I really like the way you build the front axle disconnect. Are you going use a rotating vertical tube (similar to the one at the engagement point) to transfer the push-pull of the shifter to the side-to-side required by the axle? The bonus would be that you can adjust the lengths of the lever arms to change the effective ratio and balance how much throw is required to engage 4wd for whatever length (and throw) shifter you decide to use. Then it's a simple thing to do a small tube with heim joints to get the final connection, which can tuck to the side of the tunnel and not get in the way of the chain.

the lines on the sprocket portion of the skid plate turned out great, and im glad you put some tubing on either side too. i also really like the idea of using plexiglass over the main tunnel to see the chain. it will look cool and you can verify it didnt snap or anything

My sunday routine continues! 👌👌

Mr rich guy with the rivnuts for the side panels 😂 could’ve saved some coin if you drilled and tapped the tabs, in the tubing I’d definitely run them though. Plexi is a cool idea for the mid section, you could even run a indicator light inside the tunnel that changes colour depending on 2wd or 4wd selection, a 1w led would be ample, and a micro switch on the selector lever would be easy enough to set up,

Please keep building 🙏. I watch you all the time. Can't wait to see this thing go down the lanes ❤👍

7:40 so impressive.. came a long way since lifted go kart.

I just want to point out how much of a beast you are on the lathe 🤔...... Keep up the hard work Chris

You sure have come along way young man… 600K followers 😮 You rock. I remember back when it was 8K. Outstanding job. 🎉

This is the build I'm impatiently waiting for...I'm hoping you'll stick with it until completion.

Chris, what about using a mountain bike shock as a chain tensioner , you could adjust the spring tension softer or harder, the chain could flex but only if the shock tension allowed it to, would give a little flex but also allow the chain to be tight/tighter , could use a F1 car style front shock type setup, laydown shock with a pivot arm to keep everything low profile

Hugely satisfying. Don't know if the cap head bolts securing the skid plates are permanent or not, but I'd use button head ones.

One of the best fab guys on RU-vid.

To help prevent the chain from snapping add some rubber dampers to the drive system. The donuts used on car drive shafts should do the trick.

Amazing work Chris, enjoy watching your top notch fabrication work.

man the quality of the your builds are insane you don't take any short cuts

Things sick hope he gets this one powder coated all that work into it … it sure deserves it

Wild to see the projects grow in size from the Grave Ninja to this.

There she is , I knew you were hiding it around there somewhere. Such a sweet build. I just love your design & fab style . I’ll say it again, your best build to date .

Chris you need a Bolt/Nut sponsor :) nice work, great watch

I like the big tires and I know you will make it work, glad to see you back on the truck. Now get back to it lol.

This thing is getting awesome. I was on the fence about the chain drive but I'm coming around.

good work young man its becoming a hell of a machine be great to see it running

use Polycarbonate (Lexan) it can take a chain impact, Acrylic (Plexiglass) is very brittle, you can beat 3/8 Polycarbonate with a hammer and get just spiderweb cracks

considering the apparent fascination I was surprized no hotdogs were being put through that teflon sleeve... LOL

Keep up the good work! I have a built race Yamaha Rhino with an 08 R1 in it. Definitely thinking about digging it out and working on it. In terms of coolant lines in the tunnel, run steel or aluminum tubing for it. I personally have steel pipes that I had powder coated and haven’t had any issues with rust inside or out. I have an aluminum Honda Civic eBay radiator up front and engine in rear. Rubber coolant hose from radiator to steel pipe, then from pipe to motor has a small hose. That way it’s flexible where it needs to be, and strong where it won’t get torn or damaged as easily. Looking forward to more videos!

Awesome to see you bacon the truck can't wait to see the first test run 👍👍

That thing is a FN work of art seriously ✔️

I'm excited to see how this turns out.

Coming together really nice Chris!

Plexiglas is a very good idea Chris! 😁👍

You could use aluminum or copper pipe for the rad, a little more protection for a chain failure.

Yeah an inspection window of sorts is definitely a good idea for the chain drive. And you probably can't have too many chain guides haha.

TIP: Big round balers use big black neoprene blocks for chain lash, check them out might make your long chain run easier to manage. (New Holland I know uses them on the br7090)

Simply BRILLIANT!

Good progress here! One of my favorite builds this year! Can't wait to see if the chain drive works or not! :)

If you are going to use plexiglass, then do the whole build with plexiglass panels. Like a 90's see through gameboy. Cool AF.

Your skid plate fit better than any manufacturer skid plate out there.. those darn things never line up!

I think just adding a small viewing window for the 4wd chain would be something cool to add. I wouldn't do anything super big for safety reasons and a little addition would be to add a small light to see inside it haha.

Can't wait to see this things first drive

Awesome looking good can’t wait to see it done and moving

Nice job on everything man amazing work as always. If i had to make 1 suggestion it would b to ad a sheet of dynamat to the inside of the tunnel panels an that will stop them from rattling like a empty tin can. Other then that love it.

Safety Moment: Heating up Teflon too much (like welding next to it) will cause it to break down and release fumes that will cause polymer fume fever, or Teflon Flu. The fumes rapidly kill parrots, and aren't good for you, either. Another safety tip: Get some activated charcoal cartridges for your respirator. They probably don't work on the Teflon fumes, but they filter a lot of other nasty stuff.

It is looking good. just a suggestion on the bolts on the skid plates, maybe get flat head allen faseners so they dont get damaged on rocks...

Quality Craftmanship & Skills as always. Well done 👏

If you can run hard tubing for the cooling system and keep the rubber hoses short for the best flow possible. It should also help with if the chain comes off from loosing cooling.

My fav is rivet nuts with button heads - don't care on SAE or M bolts got both these days. (M5 or M6 boxes) As always just enjoying your work and creativity - saw this weekend crazy people using button heads on rim tapped in as decoration boat trailer rims - waisted away in Margaritaville I think.. Like the Plexi idea for the tunnel.. IDEA: I haven't found them recently - there are free wheeling hubs that are designed on an eccentric with roller pins. Couple your engage disengage hub design and total control. The design is with the eccentric they don't engage until the wheel begins to stall and gives a back feed to the roll on the rollers to bite on the outside hub for both wheel and drive power supply. No Differential needed as the solid axel design spin allows the fast free wheel on the opposite side of the drive power to roll. So never a differential ever needed as it can free wheel as needed. the ones I recall were like 40 hp rated per hub they had higher rated ones but what I was looking to design back then I had 2 axels so my 50 hp motor was no where near the the 2- 40 hp pull rating when 2 other were free wheeling as a differential action. 80hp was the actual max one could get on the drive side of 2 wheels on inside type turning. I wish they were on this ATV I have because of the bite of the wide tires on tar is sketchy as it likes to lunge with that wheel hope jump steer issue. Like I said been looking once again. new of them back in the late 1990s/2000s. Keep up the great design work builds

If those chain guides don't work out, Murtfeldt makes long enclosed roller chain guides. Stainless steel lined with polyethylene, shaped exactly like your chain.. Your chain would run silky smooth, and without a lot of noise..

Looking Awesome!! Might want to drill a drain hole in the skid plate so it won’t hold water..

Those blocks of Teflon are neat. You can take a card sized bit a few mm thick, and sharpen one end like a knife, and you can use it to remove "warranty void" indicator stickers in such a way that they can be re-applied.

You should use vacuum line and wrap the panels (to seal the panels and limit the vibration/rattle noise)

This guy is so talented it makes me feel stupid 😂

I really like your videos!! I've been subscribing for many years now. I think I've seen pretty all of your videos. Keep up with the good work! I'm from Sweden by the way.👍👍👍

No rush man; we here for the build, not the finished product! Now to spend that fat YT cash on a big shop and start fabbing some big block V-8 toys!

4:44 - I would be playing w/ that the whole time and not getting anything built.... 😂

I can't wait to see this thing rip. You should get the grindhard guys to come out and drive it. I'd love to see Ethan go full send in it.

This thing is going to be bad ass!!

Plenty of room for a constant chain oilier!

Nice to see you working with a real lathe when I started watching your channel you were making a homemade lathe 😂

You should run some of the chassis tube work as a hose so you do t have as much rubber hose to deal with

Teflon is actually a solid lubricant 😉

Nice progress! Love the little details on your build. Mike c

If your chain tunnel ends up making to much noise from it being enclosed you might want to get some cheapo spray in bedliner to quiet it up. just a quick spray on the inside panels alone should quiet it up

8:34 yeah, you can. Buy round teflon, machine it like a skate wheel (abec bearings and all that) and make a groove for the chain to ride in with chamfered edges (to end up like an old timey thread bobbin like our grandmas used to have back in the day before paper bobbins). That's going to keep the chain riding proper and be quiet. IF you don't mind making these wheels every one in a while, just get an actual skateboard wheel, something with a low durometer like a longboard wheel and machine those and you'll have to swap them every once in a while. And yes, teflon is the best commercially available material for chain guides you can get. Good stuff.

such a pleasure to watch.

So since it's a chain tunnel, you should call it a Chunnel!

Should consider adding some rubber or weather cushion between the metal plates and the tubing to avoid excessive rattling noise from the engine and trains.

Very Cool beautiful build

Run a metal pipe up threw the chain tunnel for cooling will keep it from getting trashed if ya blow the chain

You should put skid plates under the seats also, it would keep sticks from coming through the seats.

Nice work! Id guess that last rough ride in the mini-bouncer was motivation to finish the glide ride trophy truck!! Lol keep it coming can't wait to see how it does on the trail

Take your time, just keep the cameras running for us.

Rather than use Plexiglass, I would use lexan as it has less chance of getting broken if things hit it hard

I think a spring tensioned gear would work for the chain so it could move with the suspension.

Small block v8 ya baby ya .

that bottom chain guide just behind the sproket is going to get chewed up pretty quick because there will be a lot of chain tension on that location while in drive

Great job!!

This is so awesome. Keep it up man!

You build the coolest stuff!

Put lock nuts on the exposed threads of the chain guides.

Your fabrication skills are amazing. This is going to be a sweet busax4. Can't wait to see it RIPP

Looks amazing 👊👊👊

If you do the plexiglass Tunnel cover just for extra safety I would put a honey comb or diamond cut sheet metal over it In case the chain ever breaks if it bust the plexiglass then it prevents the shards from whipping out at you and also the chain from fully coming through. Since that chain is so heavy it'll have a lot of mass and moment and could cause a lot of physical harm. That or make a secure peek-a-boo cover to be able to inspect it and that can be secured.

Would've gone with a pex, thick wall tube for chain guides, but those work too, just a bit more work. I've used pex tube in the past, and if you flare the ends, they work great, very little wear long term. My brother has a sprayer and we decided that rotating heads are far more efficient, so there's about 20 meters of chain run through pex tube with a 5mm wall thickness up and back down the arms, feeding each of the rotating heads (cheaper than individual motors).

Front lower chain guide is going to have ALL of the force from the front wheels. Maybe replace it with a sprocket and bearing to handle the load 🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️🤷🏻‍♂️

Great job

Again great work and videos Just a thought why don't you put a winch at the back of your shop just to help pull your projects in cause it looks like a job Plexie glass to see chain not a great call in my mind as chain will be oily it going to make a mess Just my thoughts

Hey man, loving this build.. just an idea, With using so many drive chains, perhaps a Scottoiler maybe a good idea for helping longevity of the chain?

Nice job

Hello, When I use rivet nuts in tube, I make 2 points of welding ( TIG ) , it's better ... In protection ski ;) Sorry for my Bad english

Love it keep it up as always 💘

Chris, I want to see you build a shaft drive machine. A Vmax engine would make for a great ride.

Im surprised he hasn't used drive shafts instead of chains....but his buggy's are awesome

I thought you had left the spot open for plexiglass already. Definitely do that, that'd look awesome