4WD Mini Trophy Truck Build - Part 25 

Don't forget to put a hole in the lowest part of the wiring box to let water out, because water will get in.

It’s not a chiped key the ecu is just looking for the 100ohm 1/2watt resistor. The cheap eBay ignitions don’t have them so you just have to add it between power and black/white wire or you can just put it inline on black/white wire. Pretty sure that’s the imobilizer wire

You might have to bypass the tilt sensor. If the sensor is bad and the computer thinks its tipped over the fuel pump won't turn on.

That will be so cool to do a proper powder coating of the chassis and nice paint job on all the panels… on passenger side, you will need some handles for the passenger to secure himself

measure the voltage at the connector (not the pump site) if u measure 12 V the fuel pump is more or less shortening and the voltage is dropping because the battery can't keep the voltage up. that would also explain the sparks when hooking up the pump directly

Good job on the editing of the video at 12:12 when you knocked on the wiring box it perfectly lined up with the song 👍 i love when people do that type of stuff

Can wait to see it fully panelled up. ❤

The dash looks awesome. :) After it's done and skinned, I think it'll be the coolest build I've seen on Y/T.

All of Chris' music gives me an earworm... great music!

A couple suggestions for the electrical box - Cover the entire inner compartment with dynomat/killmat sound suppression, for sound AND vibration. Yuasa is one of the best powersports sealed AGM batteries out there. Nice choice. I’m happy you went with power steering on this vehicle. I suspect it’ll be impossible to steer without it. I still think you should register this project as a road legal motor vehicle and that will require blinkers, DOT tires, windshield, etc. This is your best project yet. Glad you’re sticking with it.

Such a phenomenal build the amount of time, research, and talent you put into this project is excellent. Building machines of this quality is something that very very few people have the passion or patience for and it makes your videos some awesome bits of entertainment to say the least!

Thanks for filming Chris. 😁👍🏼

I'd just use an in-line fuel pump, it would be significantly less expensive. And as someone else said, make sure you try it with the pump upright.

Daaaaamn! This looks REALLY clean!! Great work!!

Good job. I admire what you do and done! Thanks

The dash was my favorite part of the video. Clean af

For compression. Depending on your altitude and density altitude, your 180 compression might be more like 190 to 200. It’s 1 psi per 1000 feet. So if you are at 1000 msl, and it’s a above standard temperature day with low humidity, say a density altitude of 4000’ (not uncommon on a warm day), your altitude effect is along 5000’. Roughly 5 psi. Additionally, when the engine is hot from running, you’ll see a significant increase in compression typically unless your valves aren’t seating properly (either from damage, carbon, or valve gap.) for a motor that’s room temp, that hasn’t run in who knows how long, I’d be willing to bet your compression improves after running it.

Loving the build so far and was glad to see the reverse trike last week.Just a suggestion, if you want to hear it run for a minute or two. At GM they would stick a rag over the intake of the throttle bodies and squirt gas on the rag that way it would suck in the vapors and no worries of flooding. Old trick my dad taught me from his time there at the GM plant.

The fun part of the build, the wiring 😊

That anti theft sounds exactly like the VATS for 80's GM vehicles. Which was just a resistor in the key. there were 14 different values they could be. How to bypass it would be just finding out what resistance you need, and splicing it inline one of the ignition wires.

Have you thought about putting a Anderson plug on the outside the box so you can have a trickle charger or plug in a solar panel to charge the battery 😊

I would def put a t-handle grab bar for the passenger. Its going to get rowdy lol

Maybe a couple of heater pipes from the back of the radiator fan to keep your legs warm if your going to use it in the cold and rain.

I would suggest that you get a multimeter with a dc current clamp, it's a reeealy convenient thing to have to see if stuff is drawing current 👌

Good job 🤟. could be cool if you made a small glove compartment for the passenger in your wiring box😊

You can use a PCV valve from a small block chevy to let water out and not in with a small tube hanging down, also need a sealed battery with a vent tube to keep the vapors from building up inside the box and exploding or rcorroding all your wiring connections

You got lucky that the ECU accepted a random RFID key code and you didn't had to make a run to the next Suzuki dealer to learn the new key to the ECU... Great leap to the finish line with the turn over, spark and no error codes anymore! 👍👍👍

vfr buggy was my favourite, can't wait to see how this one turns out

Not sure if you bypass the clutch switch or the kickstand switch. You also have to bypass tip over sensor that you have to take apart and silicone in the right position for it to start. you have to bypass all three of the safety features for it to work with no issues.

oh yes the "fun" of FUel injection (not a typo) electrical gremlins are a nightmare to trace and shoot, but as you said, once you get the bugs squashed in the system, they tend to be rock solid at that point edit: you might try rapping on the motor housing with the handle of a screw driver with the switch in the on position and see if the motor starts turning and the pump starts operating, sometimes if a pump sets for a while it'll lock up, and a quick tap can often times free up the gummed up parts and get er' choochin' again, it seems like you are dealing with a locked rotor situation with that pump from observation, but you got this man, she'll be a ripper fer' sure once you get the bugs worked out of the drivetrain and the rest of er' assembled

Something very relaxing about a video from here, on a Sunday evening, with that same sound track playing, almost every time. Sometimes, change isn't always better. :)

I meant to alert you to an issue with your radiator shroud. You placed the flat plate around the fans next to the radiator. Ideally that should be mounted with a little distance ~25mm/ 1 inch. This allows the air to flow though more of the radiator. That being said you do good work, very creative, and industrious. Come a long way. Keep it up.

For the fuel pump, put some hose on the inlet and outlet. Fill it with beeryman b12 or seafoam(i use acetone but i dont know about the seals in a in tank pump). Hook up power to a reversible switch. Tap power one way then back the other a bunnch of times. It will usually free them up unless its in REALLY bad shape.

Hillbilly fix would be to whack the fuel pump with a hammer.

Looks to be a good engine, getting such close compression on all cylinders is really encouraging (180psi stone-cold is absolutely fine). If you make sure it's cooled properly, doesn't ingest crap and don't abuse it, it should serve you well (I know you want it to be solid enough for potential turbo-ing). All told, looking good - your first vehicle you can take a camera-person with, should make for some great vids!

Waiting for the next video ….From Dominican Republic 🇩🇴 🫡

Putting 12v directly to a fuel pump is a legitimate way to diagnosing if its working or not or if you have a problem upstream with the wiring or relay. We do this often with vehicles at work.

Gonna be a nice ride Chris 👍

Remember to check ground continunity or better yet, run a ground wire to every component and the chassis (unless the computer is switching ground and the pos is always hot). Even if the chassis is fully welded many high amp circuits will suffer from a poor ground connection through the chassis. So, when you say "I've got 12V or 9.9V (or whatever)" always follow that with "do I have good ground continunity" because 9 volts may get through a tack weld, but 10-15A may not.

Your just the best fabricator I’ve seen really like your wiring harness and battery box plus the neat lid you built . And you got Spark yeah!!! I just can’t wait till the wiring video you might be close to starting it

Solderstick wiring stuff 👌

You still are going to have to program that keys chip to the ecm even with the right oem parts as far as I know

i'd cover the metal paneling with EPDM rubber roofing membrane for both aesthetics and noise reduction purposes

all you gotta do is add a resistor to the ignition wires to act like the resistor chip on stuff i work on usually. But suzuki decided to use a stupid 4 digit code so makes sense that it wasnt working. Usually thats only on the UK or euro bikes, so how the heck does yours have it i wonder

Love the box idea. Idea #1 try those Solder Seal wire connectors could always double protect them with heat shrink over top #2 idea for the top of the box you should try some of that Knock off, dynamite. Help with the tin noise loving the build keeps getting better and better keep it up bud 👍

Spray a small amount of brake cleaner/ easy start down the induction manifold while turning it over to see if it fires

Your compression should go up after everything has oil splash and good oil pressure. Also, the fuel charge will raise compression. If you're not using fuel in the carburetor, it can substantially lower compression readings simply by virtue of volume taken up.

nice work ! keep it going 😊

if the pump has two speed wiring with the normal position being slow and you were trying to hot wire it while the pump was also plugged into the harness that could be why hot wiring the pump did nothing. 9v sounds like it is a 2 speed pump circuit. try removing the pump and running it in the ultrasonic, this will at the very least help you get a better look at the pump itself so you can buy the correct aftermarket one. also, you should either mount or bypass your roll over sensor, it will make it hard to diagnose the issue if you keep knocking it over by accident. keep checking for codes and fixing them until they're gone, it'll work.

This is shaping up to be your best buggy yet

180 i would say is pretty good your testing an engine that has been sitting awhile and it's within the standard range testing it again after it's been run and is warm will give you more accurate results and will likely be higher

👍super boulot, tu bosses comme un chef😉👍

Good job. Thanks!

Nice looking beast 😁

What you did is a dry compression test unless you spray lubricant in each one of the cylinders which usually they do a wet compression test which means they spray lubricant in the cylinder walls so that way the oil ring and seals have something to seal against

Check your grounds. Motorcycle wiring harnesses have many grounds that need to be bolted to the engine. if not, all kinds of weird stuff will happen. You may also have to ground the pump.

Take that fuel sending module apart and see if you can replace JUST the fuel pump and not the whole sending unit. Example. I had a 1996 Jeep grand Cherokee and the fuel pump went out on it. About $500 for a new sending unit, and that’s the only part you can buy. Took the sending unit apart and took out the actual fuel pump, took it down to auto store and started pulling pumps off the shelf. Found an identical pump in short order that ended up costing me $25.00. Installed in the original sending unit, put it all back together and truck fired right up!!!

Nice box

Glad to see your content. But. Sometimes if you would hold back some time to fill more... at once. I still like the reverse trike.

inline pump, or any cheap vehicle pump if you built your own tank

Just out of curiosity, does the fuel pump / sender assembly have a tip-over sensor? Anyway, that relay you're talking about is most likely the fuel pump relay. Sounds like the pump is seized up. If it's been sitting out in the open for a long time, it may have corroded inside. BTW, the dash looks nice. The electrical box is a great idea, although it may be wise to add some drain holes.

put the battery as close to the high load as possible (the engine starter ) then run a smaller wire to the other loads also put it as low as poss ( behind the passenger seat )???

I'm an auto elec, if it has a transponder key, the key needs to be coded to the ecu, so even if is a transponder key ignition that you bought, it won't work unless you get the key coded to it. There is probably a transponder bypass module you can buy for it like you can for alot of vehicles.

Adding to the comment that suggested a drainage hole in the wiring box, there are these rubber plugs, they are shaped like a philips bit, sorta, but they let water out and due to the shape stop stuff from getting in, . Look for bombardier iltis cowl tray drain grommet

Love your work

Don't worry about the compression... you are above sea level (so the target is lower) and ideally it should be done with a hot engine where it will be higher too

the compression is not low. thats good.

amazing talent bro!

Keep going its so close

Nice work ❤️ 👍🏼

Sparks mean the fuel pump is drawing current so most likely it's stuck. And if you want to know if it's shorting out, you measure resistance.

awesome work life you videos

as for fuel pumps you can use early to mid 90s honda civic/integra pumps in the suzuki bikes. theyre literally the same exact pump. way cheaper than buying new for the bike because they sell you the whole assembly and not just the pump itself.

Normally you do not need to buy the whole fuel pump assembly; just the little 40 dollar pump. Usually comes with a new screen filter as well.

Going to call in to work tomorrow and say." I've taken the wrong blue pill. But. Coming to hang out with you guys.

Not the rain just the water coming over the front. Pinch weld around the top with a right angle with secondary seal behind it. Thats what we do in Australia. Awesome prodject bro been watching from the start of your channel. Much love from the Aussie d#;k heads 😆

Don't forget that batteries need ventilation, make sure it doesn't get too hot in that box or your battery can swell or boil over and spill battery acid. Might be better to mount it exterior to the electrical box just near it somewhere

The cylinders are dry. With fuel in cylinder the PSI will go up. 180 on a dry cylinder is good.

Exiting times! It’s coming together nicely!

You don't need a specific gaz pump. I've run a 2nd gen 5.9 dodge ram with a ford tempo gaz tank in the bed. And when i got a bad pump, i always only replace the pump in the sending unit, as long as the pump make enough or more gaz pressure you're fine. Even put used gaz pump from the scrapyard, usually i take it from anything with a v8 to be safe and i never had any issue doing it

Cool rally raid buggy! 😉

The Security on these i think is a 1K resistor on the white wire of the keyswitch. If it doesn't see that resistor it won't spark.

Love the content

if you still have the original key look for a small rectangle 1x2mm in size roughly and stick that on your current key. you either have to get it programmed or switch the ecu..... either way is hella expensive

Greetings from Germany :) Please check whether your battery is safe to use on it's side because most batteries aren't. We don`t wanna risk this beauty getting covered in acid :O

Love it keep it up as always 💘

Best of luck with your fuel pump

Beast bro.

Maybe the fuel pump is set as "empty" and you could move the float a bit and then see if you have spark?

Some ignitions have a resistor in them so you need like 9 volts coming out on one wire and 12 on another to the cdi... Or maybe it's a chip.........

if' those pesky mosquito's are giving you a hard time, the cheap option is try using some mosquito coils?? that will keep them out of the shop. love the vids.

You could make some sort of enclosure box for the batery. So if it starts leaking, you don't have to buy a new harnas.

Sweet

23:51 Yeah TOUCHDOWN, I mean Yeah SPARK.

the hustle is real

Just get a walbro fuel pump 190cc. I use 2 walbros 525 on my evo 8. No issues so far with those pumps

Gotta have a resistor connected in line with one of the ignition wires. Don't remember what wire it is but that's definitely the issue

Could you try getting any fuel pump that meets the pressure requirement and just use the original pumps power wires to control a relay for the new pump

if you reverse the polarities on the fuel pump negative to positive and positive to negative to make the pump spin back words if its stuck. I did this to a snowmobile fuel pump that was froze just kept working it back and forth have it in gas or some lubricant to cycle, but it came unstuck and worked until I got rid of it.

a lot of the keys are paired to the ignition so that only a key with the vehicles individual code can activate the ignition