5 Best Classical Guitars Under £500 - Budget Friendly Nylon Strung Acoustics 

They want to be able to sell them all. Not just the one that sounds the best (lol)

ridiculous. even if they played the exact same thing on all of them, you wouldn't be able to make a decent unbiased comparison unless they played all of the clips back to back without telling you which one is which. and even still, they could very well be giving these a complete setup before they even show them off and we'd be none the wiser, meaning the sound comparison would be null and void anyway. seeing as any guitar will sound good with a professional setup. all the more for acoustics where most unpleasant sound is created by poorly designed bridges, adjustments made incorrectly at the factory, truss rod issues and sloppy fretwork, etc. a guitar is a list of features, what you need to actually be looking for is the right features and at the right price point for you. you'll make it sound good, never worry about that. a lot of the people watching this video are going to be beginners, or their parents, and this video does a decent enough job showing that these budget instruments are the real deal. not the dreaded bane of all beginner guitarists, the walmart special, cheap guitar shaped toys. for a beginner sound is the least important part of a guitar anyways. the most important part is how much you like how it looks, and the second most important part is how comfortable it is. cause if you dont love how it looks, you won't pick it up as often. and if playing doesn't feel good you won't play as long when you do pick it up.

You took the words right out of my mind, at the very least, “classical pieces” I loved the bottom sound of the second guitar but wish I could of heard a classical piece

£100 in England will only get you a laminated top guitar, not a solid top guitar, and all of the guitars in the video are solid top. UK, which is where this has been filmed, is also outside of many trade agreement areas, so the taxes on woods are extortionate.

I might recommend a quick look at the comment of @trulsdirio above and my response. You can get an all solid classical in Europe for about double that price.

​@@frededberg6893Why? Isn't my comment good enough? Solid top doesn't guarantee that it is better. Depends on how they are made and the quality of wood. Bad spruce can sound very thuddy. Inaccurate fingerboard renders the instrument useless, etc. While Yamaha C40 is proven good by so many people including teachers. I have got one myself.

You got it ?

Just wanted to offer two comments in reply: re: The tone between the two is night and day, that said, the c40 does not have a bad tone at all, just thicker, more clunky, less nuanced. The more expensive guitar has a “sparkle” to the tone, which makes me weak with wonder " . +1 on that. The C40 has laminated top and back/sides. Your C10 is all solid. Solid wood will always resonate better (it's lighter and has no glue between layers or fibers). The result is, that a solid guitar will usually project better (be 'louder') and produce high notes easier/better. A simple test of the general quality of a classical guitar is to pluck the open high E and compared it against the low E. If the high E is anywhere near as loud as the low E, that's a great indicator (very crude, but useful). The physics behind the sound of a classical guitar are sort of stacked against the ability to produce high notes well -- the strings are smaller and lighter just for starters. Proper fit/filing of the saddle can be a real make or break factor in making a classical sounding good (or not). If you revisit that issue, you make wish to research online about the different approaches and geometries that can be done to improve sound.

Yes!!! The Thomann Classic S 4/4 ('S' designating solid construction, 4/4 for full size). I bought one four years ago and love it! (122 USD+ 34 shiping). I checked Thomann online and they are still available < $200 here in the US+ shipping. They are made in Romania by Hora. I have done a number of upgrades and tweaks to mine (which I describe below). It's a no frills, correctly assembled guitar made of: solid Carpathian spruce top, solid Sycamore Maple back and sides, a standard neck-body joint (not Spanish heel), average tuners, and what is described as 'acacia' for fretboard and bridge, and upon some research, it appears to be what we more commonly call Black Locust -- a terrific substitute for rosewood -- IMO. If you're into guitar work, or care to take it to a skilled tech and/or luthier to transform it into a real beast, consider the tweaks I did below: 1. Replaced plastic saddle and nut with (cow) bone units.* 2. Leveled, crowned and polished frets (badly needed on my instrument) 3. Restrung with quality strings (either D'addario Titaniums or LaBella 2001s) 4. I placed the guitar in front of a very loud speaker (PA type woofer) and blasted sound into it to make it vibrate for several hours. It helps usher the break-in time.. For the more adventurous: 5. (This one I don't recommend unless you REALLY know what you're doing, if you haven't ever worked finishing or re-finishing a guitar, I'd recommend staying away from this) I 'thinned' the thick layer of polyurethane finish on the top by careful and progressive polishing down with micro mesh pads, lemon oil (or water) and lots of elbow grease. Thining the top finish lets the top vibrate better, which produces a stronger more responsive sound. 6. * I also shaped the bone saddle to produce recesses between each pair of strings. This will produce a 'sawtooth' type pattern-- raised 'teeth' under each string about 3/8" wide, alternating with recesses between the raised areas. This makes for a lighter saddle and directs the energy from string vibrations directly down into the bridge and top better. 7. Lastly, I sanded the tie block (differentially) so that the side facing the saddle is lower than the bottom or 'far side' of the tie block. By looking at the bridge from the side, it has a near-triangular profile, lowered toward the saddle. I also use string beads (aka 'tie beads') to fasten strings at the bridge - FYI. Good luck. These make terrific project guitars and it is easily the best $ I have spend on any classical guitar ever (and I have bought a few!)

Yes! And I'd add a comparison of the plucked open E strings -- the high one should be somewhere as loud (project as well) as the low E.

bro its the prettiest believe me..Saw one at store

Yup

The cream of the crop can be 10,000 so yes 500 is budget friendly.

Yamaha C40, should be about 100£ RRP, and it's very good.

I understand where you're coming from but Going below $100 or so with instruments is entering trash territory. It's an expensive hobby to be sure.

Budget should be everything up to 300. 500 quid is a lot.

??

"they're more like guidelines, than actual rules" - captain barbossa

Because a classical guitar can be held anyway you like. You realise you dont have to play classical music on a classical guitar right?

What?