▼EXPAND FOR TOOL LINKS and INFO▼ Watch Next = Table Saw vs Track Saw - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UAIr27EOoCc.html Tools in This Video: Festool Track Saw - amzn.to/3NQJksA Milwaukee Track Saw - thetoolnut.sjv.io/x9eDyy Kreg Track Saw - amzn.to/3pYKTwI TSO Guide Rail Square - bit.ly/tsoguiderailsquare Festool Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3Dr14G9 3M Dust Extractor - lddy.no/1gnzh DeWALT Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3rHeTO4 DeWALT Table Saw - amzn.to/3OuYHJ7 Skil Table Saw (Amazon) - amzn.to/3XWAdLQ Skil Table Saw (Tool Nut) - thetoolnut.sjv.io/VmZZEj SawStop 3HP Table Saw - amzn.to/3IoKqsZ Narex Chisel Set - lddy.no/1gnzi Wahuda Jointer - amzn.to/3OnEYek Tool Deals - www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Greatest Free Gift I've Ever Received: story4.us/731Woodworks 📲 Never miss another tool deal. Sign up for my Tool Deals SMS Alerts - NOTE: I text out tool deals so you don’t miss any! text DEALS to 1 (731) 207-7151 Be sure to add DEALS to your text to me so you get added to the proper list. You can also click this link my.community.com/731woodworks Important to add the word DEALS to the text! My Favorite Work Clothes - truewerk.pxf.io/GmbJjE Use code WOODWORKS10 to save 10% off your order for a LIMITED TIME ONLY. The full list of tools and supplies I recommend can be found on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools 🇺🇸 Join the TUBAFOUR NATION through Patreon to get access to exclusive member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks Check this video's description for all the links to any tools and videos I discussed. If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission. Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
I’m just a hobbyist, but $3000 to avoid going to the emergency room is well worth the price of the SawStop. When I was deciding on the saw to get I had narrowed it down to a Laguna or a SawStop. The difference was about $1000. My wife said we should make the extra investment because it was cheaper than surgery.
100%. I took of the tip of a thumb with a chisel doing a stupid thing, and just the bill for that comparatively small injury and sutures would make up the price difference for a sawstop. Surgery to reattach or clean up the amputation of mangled bone will pay for a sawstop several times over.
I worked at a cabinet shop with a sawstop. In 20 years of using a table saw, I never had an accident. Then one day I was cutting about 3/8 of an inch into 3/4 inch material, pushing straight down over the blade as I was pushing through, trying to get a consistent depth on a piece of maple. Hit a tough spot, the wood went flying, my finger pushed straight down into the blade. It would've split my index finger straight down the middle. All it did was remove the top layer of skin, didn't even draw blood. I was so thankful for that sawstop that day.
My idea on tools is to either go for top quality or low cost, depending on how much you expect to use a tool. With a cheap tool you can always upgrade later if you need to, but buying a midrange tool can leave you disappointed but with too much money spent to feel comfortable replacing it. One unexpected benefit to me of having a Festool track saw and sander is the way the power cords work-you can leave the cord and dust hose attached to the collector and just switch tools quickly.
One tool that was missed, but was sort of mentioned was a good quality sander. That's something that you will be using for hours on every single project that rolls through your shop. A quality sander, such as those from Festool, 3M, Surf Prep, Mirka, etc., will save you hours of sanding, give you a higher quality finish, have much better dust collection, and have less vibration than an off the shelf sander like DeWalt, Milwaukee, lower end Bosch, and their like. Along with that is higher quality sandpaper, which can be just as expensive, but it truly does make a huge difference. Quality paper such as the 3M Xtract, Cubitron II, when compared to brands like Diablo, Gator, and others available at your box stores is like comparing a Ferrari to a Model T. They both will sort of get the job done, but at seriously different speeds and quality...
See this is where you lost me, because you were talking about two different things. Quality sander and Quality paper. Both combined are fantastic. But if you are trying to make an argument for tools which you are. Do you know that the company who owns Milwaukee also owns Ridgid and Ryobi?
@@bravobrk absolutely, but those are all still consumer level products. The tools I refer to from companies like Festool and Mirka are more on a professional level. Same with the sandpaper. Further, you need to remember that the sander is not the tool. It is the machine. The sandpaper is the tool.
I have had the Wahuda 10" jointer since it came out. I jumped on it due to it's size, spiral carbide inserts and bed extensions for less than $700 (compare to ANY 8" jointer!). The fence unfortunately is aluminum, but once aligned it stays pretty well. Like Matt, I have been enthusiastic about it ever since. Truly an incredible value!
I've purchased the Rigid 10 -inch Pro Jobsite Table Saw with Stand primarily because it's portable, compact to store & for what I have needed/wanted it to do, it's been perfect
When I look at my shop today, I have the most money invested in my JessEm router table system. It is by far the most ridiculously expensive tool in MY shop. I'm just a hobbyist, but if I had unlimited $'s, I would outfit my shop with lot's of Harvey stuff! Love your Tee's brother!
Matt, I remember when a guy gifted you that Yahuda jointer. You were overjoyed and blown away. I wanted one like it, but settled for a smaller WEN, which has served me well.
The only tool that stands out would be a router table. Even a lift and DIY table is pricey but it’s definitely one of those things that is hard to replace at times for me. Bandsaw is awesome but maybe not the same as the other tools you’ve listed. Great content as always.
I would never spend money on a lift or table… I built my own into the far right wing of my table saw with scrap Baltic Birch and mdf, use the Bosch router with the $30 Bosch router table under mount attachment and a $30 aluminum router table plate. $60 and about an hour to build and set up vs hundreds or even thousands of dollars and works just the same.
I bought the ets 125 then bought the ct 26 for my sanding setup. At over $1000 to sand is crazy expensive to me however it has been an awesome setup and I don't regret it even for a second. For an additional expensive tool for me is the Jet 14 inch bandsaw. At over $1700 crazy expensive. Once again zero regrets. Stay awesome.
@@markjames8664 I absolutely hated sanding. Every time I did, the sandpaper would wear out in a minute or tear, or both. I bought the RO-125 and was hooked. I've since bought the ETS, DTS400, RTS, and LS. My favorite is the Pro-5 (It was essentially and ETSC125 for $100 with a $50 coupon towards the next worm). The CT48 makes them indoor tools. 😁
At a little over $60 US the Fonson square from BangGood (5 start review from "Hooked on Wood") vs the TSO square at 3 times the price and without the balance bar on the Fonson that suspends the square on the work makes the Fonson a better choice for Festool, Makita and Powertec users. However, the Fonson does NOT fit Milwaukee and Dewalt tracks.
Completely agree!!! 1. Kreg Track Saw (your videos help me decide on which to buy) 1b. Bought this within a week of having my track saw. 2. Festool duster extractor is definitely on my “To Buy” list. 3. Love my Dewalt table saw. With my Track Saw, 20mm Paulk Big Bench, I’m not sure a bigger more expensive table saw is in my future. 4. On my “To Buy” list now, thanks to this video. 5. 6” Craftsman Jointer. 6. Dewalt DW735 planer 7. UJK Parf Guide System Mark II for making 20mm worktops, like Ron Paulk tables & accessories. Enjoy your channel. 8. On my “To Buy” list Festool Domino Joiner
Pair $600+ for a Mirka sander, and wish I had done it years ago. Sands very well, but the dust collection when attached to my vac is outstanding. I think I could sand something in my living room and not see any dust film on the furniture. I used to hate that with my old palm sanders - the huge amounts of dust generated.
Matt, good video. A great sander vs a low priced version. I have Festool and 3m sanders. So much better than a Bosch or De Walt. Also, you have not tested the Makita brands. I have their Track Saw and am not at all disappointed with the Makita..
An expensive item that even I have a hard time buying, is a quality saw blade. We’ll spend 4-5k on a table saw but will balk at buying a $200 blade that cuts fantastically and can be sharpened multiple times.
Finally broke down and bought the Narex set and it was a great move! Super flat and sharp right out of the box and they actually hold that sharpness! Those HF specials took an hour to flatten and sharpen and dull after a couple uses. Now they pry things up or open that I would never use the narex for! And yes, I did SawStop 3hp 52" and best purchase I have made in the past 3 years! My cuts are far superior to my portable table saw and still accurate after years of heavy use.
As a journeyman carpenter/ fine woodworker, I would suggest a good solid table saw, Delta,Powermatic, or Saw Stop. With a good out feed table, you can do anything a track saw can do, and so much more. Forty years ago when I got into carpentry and building furniture, we got along fine with out them. Even for finish carpentry in custom homes we usually take out a Delta contractors saw.
A friend got his hand into his table saw blade, he got really lucky and only got a missing nail and a few stitches. I am going to be replacing my old Jet with a Sawstop, definitely worth the money
Matt - you left out the most ridiculously expensive tool: the Festool Domino maker. Even with the expense, it's really a game changer. Yes, dowels will work in most cases that a domino will, but the time saving and accuracy are not to be beat.
The TSO guide is worth its weight in gold! They also released one for the Dewalt tracks!!! This is the miracle of miracles as I can't find any other brand that makes a guide system for the Dewalt tracks (there's a few DIY things around, but not very good). It uses a different mechanism to attach to the tracks, but it still only takes a few seconds to attach. Speaking of which, my one regret about getting a tracksaw was buying the Dewalt corded tracksaw instead of the Festool. The Dewalt tracksaw is a great saw, it's the tracks that are the problem! Because of their unique design it's apparently very difficult to make accessories for them. Whereas the Festool tracks get all of the love with accessories out the wazoo! Granted, the Dewalt tracksaw will work on Festool tracks... but I really don't need to be investing another $400 in tracks. The Festool TS55 is about $100 more than the Dewalt, so I think that would've been worth the upgrade.
The Milwaukee Dust Extractor is extremely efficient and impressive. I’d love to have a Festool, but can’t afford that price point currently. After using the Milwaukee, I don’t know if there’s anything aspect of it where I require anything more. Worth checking out for sure!
I have Festool Domino and Circular saw. That mitre/chop saw is very expensive at $1600 dollars. The Bosch GCM 12 GDL mitre saw I think is far better value for money and takes up a lot less space! Thanks for the great reviews once again!
What I like about this man.. he never wastes time with long introductions and gets straight to the point.....also the fastest talker in the West (and beyond ) but always very interesting....love this channel...
I bought an unused pre-owned Kapex for $1100, some years ago. The reason I bought it over any other miter saw was because every aspect of the saw is adjustable. Therefore, it can be the most accurate and fine tuned saw and can be used to make perfect joints.
On the table saw side, I'd say that if you're an adult who does woodworking most of their free time, if you're well off, i think the QOL of a sawstop or another high end saw can be worth it, since it should increase your enjoyment from woodworking and maybe even your money.
@@jstarr3676 Yeah I'm waiting till i have my own shop, and then(if i'm rich enough) im goin all out on a sawstop. or maybe a contractor saw in between idrk.
@officialtree5245 if you can, I would recommend a Delta while you wait to get a SawStop. They are great, especially for the price. The 36-725 and it's different variants.
Thanks for the Tool Nut link; I took the plunge on a Milwaukee Track saw. Good package at a nice price. I was waiting to see the Rigid but when you add up this package at the sales price. No Comparison to it or Makita.
Great Video!!! One quick comment regarding the TSO Guide Rail Square -- TSO also makes a fantastic set of parallel guides that work hand-in-hand with the guide rail square. They make repeatable cuts with the track saw a snap. Great channel.
Festool Domino or Mafell DuoDoweller. Both are head and shoulders better than my biscuit joiner. and both Festool and Mafell are ridiculously expensive but I I use my Festool Domino for nearly all my joinery work and not to have it, for me, is practically inconceivable.
I agree with you on everything except the chisels. I use a couple sets of the mid range price. Most of my projects don't require a fancy joint or even have to look pretty but I do run into nails and staples and trash them more than most people. So I keep one set for the sometimes when I need it sharp and the other I just beat to death and don't worry about it. The fence on the DeWalt table saw are awesome. It's a good first time saw.
On the saw stop, if you use the riving knife with the dust cover you can hook up the festool dust collector and cut down dust substantially. Worked amazing for me!
I enjoy your videos but may I request you should build more items? I think it would be fun for us watching and we can see some of the items you recommend being used. Just a thought.
Like you mentioned, if you're doing long table tops quite often a track saw might be a good purchase but if all your doing is plywood here and there, then I personally find it to be a waste of money. Just have the big box store cut it for you. If you're buying plywood by the pallet, then that's different
You should look at the SawStop contractors saw. It isn't as nice as their cabinet saw, but it cuts great unless it is your finger for about $2k. I have had one for about eight years, and I love it. After I boxed in the base for some real dust collection that is. Love the show man.
While I agree there are some tools out there that are PROBABLY WORTH the money, I believe you're paying more for the name. I'm a disabled man (15 back operations with other operations because of my back) and on a VERY LIMITED income. I do woodworking to help suffice my income. I have budget tools. A LOT have come from Harbor Freight. Those tools do everything I expect them to do. Would I love to own a good table saw, jointer, planer, HECK YEAH but my income doesn't allow me to do that. I have the mindset to respect those tools to prevent accidents from happening. I know they are called accidents for a reason, but I also believe if I do my due diligence in respecting the tool I can (for the most part) avoid an accident There are A LOT of people out there like me who just simply can't afford those expensive tools. Just my feedback. NOT COMPLAINING in anyway, so please don't take it as such
make whatever you can afford work. Some of the money is for the name, I agree, but you cant compare harbor freight to festool/mafell tools in quality of materials, operation, accuracy, and longevity. I used straight edges and speed squares to build stuff before I had a track saw, starrett squares, ect. Hell, look at furniture built with hand tools and ship builders, they didnt have fancy stuff and you dont need it, but I cant say the HF tools are close in quality to top brands. Keep building, and I am glad you build with what you have as some people think its not possible if you dont have the best. God bless.
I can’t agree with you more on all of these. The router table is pretty key and my second major purchase. TSO made my Kreg the the first time I could get a square cut and that was after I was about 3000 into this whole thing. It was an absolute game changer and I wish I wouldn’t have bought the entire ACS. They do have the best customer service ever though. The CT 26 coupled with the mullet cyclone was something I did not want to spend money on but I’m so glad I did. No more saw dust boogers, easy to move, the suction control, everything is top notch. The last few months have been some of the worst of my adult life and sadly I had to sell my jointer. I deeply regret selling that now. I thank God that was the only I sold because this hobby has been nothing short of a life saver for me. I mean that sincerely, if I didn’t have God, good people, and woodworking, I would not be here. I’m still in my first year of this but dang proud of what I’ve been able to do so far. I made a beautiful crosscut sled over the last two days, having fun and not thinking about my troubles. Keep it up Matt, your videos do more than you know
Thanks for the info! I would love to see a video on drill presses. Floor and bench top and which is best. My press is junk, and I want to replace it, but I haven't found any reviews I've been impressed with. Thanks!
#1 Track Saw - Yes absolutely - got one. #1B TSO Square - Yes absolutely - got one. #2 Dust extractor - Yes absolutely - got one. #3 Table saw - Yes absolutely - got one, need a better one, looking at Laguna F2. #4 Chisels - Yes absolutely - have cheap Dewalt set, need upgrades at some point. #5 Jointer - Yes absolutely - don't have. Have to use cheats with the table saw to fake it. Need to get one. Great video. Thanks for the total bias confirmation!!! 😂🤣😂🤣😂
I have lusted after a Harvey table saw with titanium surfacesever since my very old contractor saw gave up the ghost. My son called me one night and said Lowe's appearantly put a very nice Delta saw about 700.00 on sale 50% off. Got online and ordered for pickup before the mistake was corrected. Very happy with the Delta and especially the price!
When it comes to chisels, the final machining is the most important factor. All require some setup but the better ones are close to using OTTB. A cheap one can require hours of work to get it to a useful state.
Gotta add Bandsaw and thickness planer. Bandsaw, jointer and higher quality dust extraction are on my wish list! Right now making due with a shop vac with a dust separator. It worked pretty good but would LOVE a good better system!
Great video. I have a somewhat unrelated question. I just got into woodworking and I noticed after I did some cuts with the circular saw or literally anything that produces saw dust that my eyes became puffy. I was wearing eye gear and a full mask which was probably overkill for what I was cutting but also didn't seem to help. Is there anyway to prevent this?
The TSO Guide Rail Square alternative is the Festool 205229 Angle Stop FS-WA/90°. The Festool is significantly cheaper and it;s the same as the TSO as TSO is the one who makes the rail square for Festool. TSO blue at higher price or Festool color for less. However, i think the festool one is from the UK. I got one for $130 when the TSO were goin for $180.
I think one tool you didn't mention was the CNC. They're out of my price range since I don't do production type items. I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work! 😊😊😊
I bought the cheapo Wen track saw, figuring I'd only use it once in a while. Turns out I use it constantly. It works ok, but your advice is sound; buy a good track saw.
Why not build your own track for a circular saw? A wide piece of 1/4" ply or hardboard and a straight edge from plywood, secure the straight edge a bit further back from an edge then the distance from the blade and the edge of the saw. Then run your saw down the edge and you have a zero clearance saw guide.
Yep. I made my own track, also. I added a t-track on the bottom side and use 2 quick adjust clamps to hold the track in place. I have 2 50" sections with tongue & groove ends so they can be connected end to end seamlessly. I use it like any other manufactured system.
Festool Track Saw and Extractor, TOS Squares.... 3 years with both of them, DeWalt Small Table Saw and Grizzly Cabinet Saw..... as for Chisels.... I got VERY LUCKY at an Estate Auction. Brand New never used 10 pcs Japanese Chisels. Never even sharpened..... they are my Jewels. Est Price was $850..... Auction..... $5
For a jobsite tablesaw, I have the Dewalt DWE7491RS. It’s a 10” saw, and can accept a dado stack up 3/4” thick. You just have to use a 6” dado stack, the 8” will be too heavy for the motor.
Great Video! Been looking to purchase those tools types, but wait for someone who works with them make comments about them. I would also like hear what you have to say about shop drill stands like drilling, rpms, laser guides, and etc(table top and floor versions). Thanks and keep up the doing what your doing it has helped me and I am sure a lot others.
My take on all of the tools in the video is they are not worth it unless you have money to throw away. For many many years, craftsmen built very high quality projects without anything mentioned in the video. These are niceties not necessities!
I have to say, I disagree on the TSO square and the reason is that I'm always slightly off when I use it. I have a mft-like top (make with a parf system) and if I cut with that it's square, ie. over a full 2-3ft I will not even have 1/64in off from square. With the tso track square I always get a tiny bit off. I do agree on track saws in general being worth it, same for the festool vac.
Jointers are great. If I knew then what I knew now, though, I'd have picked up a planer first. I'm happy with both, so I won't take anything away from the jointer. I just use the planer more, and it pays for itself in savings from buying rough sawn lumber versus S4S
kinda surprised the domino jointer wasn't on the list. I really don't like how expensive they are, but I also really want one. it will be nice once other companies can start selling them and drive the price down.
They sell their miter saw for $1600, which they came out with when the miter saw market was fully developed. The domino price ain't going down even if others can enter the market
@@timkalita748 that's ok. I'll settle for a knock off when they come out if it does the same thing. I'd love to have all festool and woodpecker tools, but it's not feasible for a small time woodworker.
Wow man, major respect for actually being honest about the Kapex instead of doing the whole Fescult thing. The Makita is my choice, but the Bosch is great as well, so is the Hitachi.
The Kapex _is_ better, but IMO not better enough to justify the price difference. In fact, I tried a Kapex and was kind of disappointed with it (especially the depth stop's range, handle ergonomics and blade deflection). Overall it's better than the competition but only because all of them could (should) be significantly improved.
@@paulhopkins1905- Deflection is slightly worse on the Makita. The tilt mechanism, fences and clamp are significantly better on the Kapex. The laser is slightly better on the Kapex. The Kapex also comes with a good angle finder. Dust extraction depends. I'd say it's better on the Makita if you're close to the big port, otherwise it's slightly better on the Kapex. The main problem with the Makita's dust extraction, IMO, is the way the port at the top tilts _back,_ forcing you to leave more space behind the saw so the hose won't hit the wall (or forcing you to add a 90-degree adapter that will make airflow slightly worse. Either way, they both have much better dust extraction than any of the competition.
@@RFC3514 The Tilt is slightly better on the Kapex, not significicantly better. The Fence is a dissappointment on the Makita, I agree. The laser is the same, a shadow line would be an upgrade on both. I have had zero deflection issues on either saw. The Makita wins hands down in power, ergonomics, capacity and blade avalability. Kapex using a non standard blade is a big deal. The biggest deal breaker for me is the grip, as a matter of fact it's the deal breaker of the Kapex and honestly makes me hate it
Helical jointer and planer cutting heads should be on that list, certainly a game changer but also an expensive upgrade, worse yet try selling one with it.
I have most of the tools you mention but don't have the track saw . Just really starting out as due to retire and want something to keep myself busy and looking towards a track saw and cnc router at this point. all my tools were used and in good shape. Would like to see what you recommend for these items and possible bandsaw .
If you don't need the anti-static hose or Bluetooth control, Festool's CT-15 is an amazing alternative. It uses the same filters and the same motor as the CT MIDI and costs a fraction of the price. You can even add most of the other components (like the anti-static hose, the "hose garage" top, etc.) later - though if you're going to buy all of those, it's cheaper to just buy the CD MIDI / CT MINI in the first place, and get the Bluetooth module as well).
If you're going to use a jointer you also need a thickness planer. One isn't very useful without the other. After jointing, you'll need to machine to some "standard" size, depending on what you're building and, even though they look similar, a jointer can't plane. You also forgot a drill press, which I would put above the jointer but wouldn't spend a lot of money on one until it shows the need (see how many times a cheap one is used and the problems found in a cheap one. A router table is versatile and probably should be included. There isn't a need to spend $1000 but they're worth a couple of hundred. Like a table saw, the fence makes or breaks a router table. A lot depends on what sort of woodworking you do. For furniture building, the jonter and planer are critical.
I said that a thickness planer was more important than a jointer. Before either, yes, a real table saw with a real fence is more important. Actually the MOST important (I have seen people getting away with just a track saw). I see all the "jointing on a table saw" RU-vid videos. A table saw might work but so does a plane. So does a thickness planer if you're masochistic. You can also use S4S if you have money to throw away. Even the S4S I've seen is a pretzel and still has to be jointed (which makes it useless for pretty much anything).
I recently got the powertec Dust extractor, and although i haven't had the time to really use it, i've found a few points. If you wear hearing protection, then the sound isn't an issue(it can get really loud). They say it has 560 CFM(4 times festool) which could explain the noise, however i got about 20 feet of tubing, even though i normally only use it to 5 feet. Unless you have a really nice boom arm design to keep the tubes organized, you're losing a lot of suction power. It only had a bit over my shop vac in normal use, though that hopefully won't be an issue when i set up a boom arm.
I don't believe you can consider yourself a woodworker or carpenter if you don't own a table saw. A track saw is one of those things that once you've bought it you wonder why you waited so long
It would be cool to have a video of some quality PPE for the shop. Maybe shot some nails through some cheap glasses. Test a couple respirators, etc etc.
Yes, Narex. You don't even need the Richter line. And on sale they are very affordable. You do NOT need a $200 square. Or even an $80 version of a speed square. Just say "no". SawStop - yes, you're paying for safety. They didn't have the little saw when I got a Bosch (it came with a stand so I got it over a DeWalt). The Bosch got an expensive blade and works beautifully. Don't get me started on the Festool tracksaw. It you have the money, and the emotional need, go ahead. But it's not that difficult to cut a straight line with a circular saw and a straightedge of some sort..
Your channel has been very helpful to me sorting out how to equip my new (first) shop. Question for you... I'm leaning towards the Skil table saw as my first table saw based on my budget and various reviews, including yours. However, I have an opportunity to get the Hercules from HF at the same price. The Hercules seems beefier, seems to have a better top and throat plate, and definitely weighs more. What I cannot tell is which has more power, and which is easier to adjust if something is out of square. Can you answer these questions, or point me to a review that does answer them? Tx!
I just tried one of those cheap track-squares off of Amazon. $27 bucks. Very nicely machined and anodized orange, with two track clamps. It was 1/16" out of square over about 2 feet. Useless. Got to spend the bucks on TSO.
At a little over $60 US the Fonson square from BangGood (5 start review from "Hooked on Wood") vs the TSO square at 3 times the price and without the balance bar on the Fonson that suspends the square on the work makes the Fonson a better choice for Festool, Makita and Powertec users. However, the Fonson does NOT fit Milwaukee and Dewalt tracks.
If it's square, that's the whole story. I've got the Benchdogs square for Mafell, and it came with an actual report on how THAT particular square performed. It's square and I like it. Also have the TSO square for Makita/Festool. It's lighter and clamps on more securely, and it's square. Just big bucks though.@@agb90spruce
#1 - Yep #2 - Yep #3 - Pass, Cheaper gets me into the neighborhood. #4 - Yep, Especially with the rack & pinon fence. #4a - Pass, I don't really do classic old school wood working. #5 - Pass, almost all of my woodworking is with sheet goods.
