I don't bother changing to cheaper components, the components I got are good, and I keep the bike clean and inspect it.I use a cheap rear derailleur all year. As long as you maintain the bike properly it's not an issue. My bike also has a raw Alu frame, no issues, but it's not the cheap soft kind that corrodes easily, which is common on wheels, even not so cheap wheels. I recommend Sapim Brass nipples, no issues with those, robust, take a lot of truing and rock strikes. Cheap Alu wheels also corrode.
If you live in an area that is not too hilly then try a single speed. Remove the vulnerable drivetrain parts add a single cog kit on the rear wheel and a chain tensioner and you're good to go. At the end of season throw out the chain and switch back the gears in the spring. Much cheaper in the end. Also riding a lowish gear(40/16 or 15) works well at lower speeds and keeps you warmer if you don't coast.
Winter riding for me is mostly ice and snow as I live in Norway. But I'm also not a roadie so none of these tyres are for me. If using studded tyres the knobs need to be stiffer and harder. but still have to have some give to them, and be sticky enough. Good examples of tyres with that are 45NRTH Wrathchild and Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro, both tubeless. Both are long lasting. Wrathchild has mix of studded and non studded, plenty of mud clearance so a great all rounder. Ice Spiker Pro 2.25 felt perfect on 23mm rim. Wrathchild measures 2.40 on both 23mm and 30mm rim, but is taller on a 23mm, it's just doable with mudguard. 30mm is perfect. The tyre seats easily. Both are tubeless.
RVC, I just want to thank you for being you, and the content of your videos are amazing. You have a way of distilling alot of information but in really digestible pieces by the way you explain things. Your contents are needed more than ever with the state of the cycling industry, and I hope you'll keep making more videos and gain more subscribers! Cheers
Thank you, s ly for your kind words, it means a lot to me. I try hard to produce content that will give people value, while at the same time not sound either patronising or sound like I'm stating the obvious. Maybe I can make a career out of it, you never know 🤔. Thank you 👍
Got to say, while I love the G-One Allround for summer, it will test your handling skills to the extreme in the winter if you encounter wet mud or grass! If you really want to mix it up a bit in the winter you'll probably need something a bit knobblier and just accept it's that compromise on the road.
Agreed, Shaun. Any tyre with a small knobble style tread will struggle in wet mud or grass. You need to look at borderline cyclocross or MTB tyres for those conditions....... but then they're just as problematic on the road!!!
Thank you. A lot of interesting info for everyone there. 2 things. 1) crud only makes one size. The angle of the arms means its doesn't really fit x small frames.... Like my commuter. I wish they did 2 sizes. Never mind, just means it rattles around for a while. 2) i want a bike light the attaches under my Garmin mount. They do exist, but they cant be angled so the bike computer remains level. Unless anyone knows of one. Cheers again
Hiya Pigeon Poo, Thanks, glad you liked it. Crud: Agreed, these style of 'Stick-On' mudguards don't suit every frame size. Interestingly though, that bike in the video is a 47. The SKS Raceblade may be a better choice, as they've got a little bit of adjustment. Garmin mounted light. Well, Garmin do their own. Also, the Raveman FR160 looks like an interesting 'Be-Seen' light. Failing that, you could go with the GoPro style mounted lights, as these you can angle. But you'd need to change your Garmin mount for one with a GoPro fitting underneath. Hope that helps.
Yeah I have the Garmin front and rear lights and the front attaches to the underside of my Garmin mount. The Garmin front light can be angled so I have my 1040 flat
More great work👍I would add pulling off the cassette to check freewheel is greased (is special grease necessary for pawls?) Also when wheel out clean Rotors with Brake cleaner /IPA on wire wool or fine emery cloth.Nitrile gloves a light EDC for extra waterproof/cold layer or to wear during repair on ride 💪🏼
Lube to avoid is Rock n' Roll Extreme, only extreme is how fast the chain gets dry, if you ride in the wet, puddles, snow. Weldtite Wet Extreme works well in the cold even in -10C, but it's sticky, so absolute no go in the dry. Over lubing this lube leads to ''spiderwebs''. Muc Off works fine, but I se it does not do well longevity and efficiency tests. Smoove does not work well in sub zero temps it stiffens the chain up so much it struggles to shift, this is very noticeable around -7C.
They also have a line of products called Pure, but looks like they abandoned that idea. it was meant to be eco friendly. At least their website does not show it. @@ribblevalleycyclist
I just don't bike on the roads in the winter here in the Scottish Highlands, the low light, ice, wet, cold and lethal low winter sun and insanely dangerous vehicle drivers are a bad combination...I can put up with the wet(if I get caught in it!) and cold but I'll use one of my old 26" mtb bikes and stay off road which is easy enough to do where I am...beauty of having a few old bikes is not being so precious about them, just keep the chain lubed after a hose down and chuck it in the shed... Got a new gravel bike for next summer and despite me ALWAYS using Trace F/R day bright lights on the summer road bike I've a feeling I'm going to sadly be giving up the roads as my first choice of biking....(I get the feeling that is why gravel is becoming so popular- it's for roadies that realise how vulnerable they truly are and want to go reasonably fast but not dice with death every time they venture out!)
There's plenty of nice off the beaten path roads in Scotland where you are more likely to see sheep on the road than a car, I wouldn't rule it out completely.
It's all very well to talk about Conti 5000s & GP 4 seasons but they are really expensive and can be ruined by a nasty cut after only a few miles. Also beware hydro disc pistons seizing after a couple of months worth of salty roads. I use Spyre cable discs on my winter bike - good enough on the road, pretty maintenence free & cheap.
@@mrodgersmedia I'm south of Aviemore and excluding the A9 obviously, there's very few roads around here that are quietand in the summer clogged up with tourists in hire campervans looking for the NC500 lol (what little imagination)....At my mums in Fife I can go for a bike ride and use a whole network of backroads and see less cars despite a much higher population density.... I'm surrounded literally by fire roads and mountain bike tracks though and the Speyside way passes my house!!
I agree with you, Barry. I own that Garmin radar out of necessity. I remember when I first saw them, "A gimmick that I'll never own" was what I said to myself. In the past few years, motorists have become increasingly intolerant to the cyclist. I suspect this is partly down to the increase in cycle traffic and change of rider type on the back of e-bikes. I find myself scared for the first time on roads, and seeking out more trails. Which is a shame, because I love riding my fast light summer bike.
@@ribblevalleycyclist Yeah and hitting the rough stuff on chunky tyres soon wipes off the speed.... Going to "gravel" is something I thought I'd never do, and I'm not really happy about doing so because I get the feeling that the less of us are on the roads, the less the idiot drivers expect to see us on the roads, and their driving gets even worse making it progressively less safe for those that are on the roads (and even with "gravel" that will be us at times)...it's a downward spiral of sorts for road cycling safety. If Klaus Schwab gets his way the only thing I'd be ok with is the vast majority of plebs priced out of cars, look forward to the day when all the fat lazy chain smokers have to buy a bike again lol
Hi Paul, Love the GXA, it’s a great allrounder. The pannier is the Topeak Super Tourist DX. It’s a fantastic heavy duty rack. It’ll take upto 26kg, and this version is disc compatible. Use it for loads of stuff, bike packing in the summer, and trips to the supermarket in the winter 🤣. This is it: amzn.to/3Uz2Te0 Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks, Jon, appreciate your response and the link 👍 Yep, the GXA is a great all rounder, mainly use mine for road but recently for longer rides out with a few cycling pals. Looking to set it up as a winter/bad weather/touring bike, hence the thinking behind getting a rear rack/bag. Thanks again, Jon. Love the vids 👍
If those full chain guards like on old bikes were still a thing today, we wouldnt even have to clean the drivetrain. Maybe the bike industry moves forward in that regard or rather backward to the old days.
Hi Donybrook, glad you enjoyed it. I've used my Varia on several headunits, both Garmin and other, and it's been fine. However, I've not tried it on the Karoo. However, if it doesn't work, I'd surprised.
Thanks for the videos - I’m finding interesting and useful! I am riding tubeless and currently on GP5000S TR 28c which work well. For winter, is there a benefit to increasing the size tyre - in my case for a 30 or 32c? Secondly continental offer a GP5000 AS (all season) that seem to be in between the GP4000 4season and GP5000 S. any experience with the all season?
Hi SP, The main advantage to running a larger tyre is that you can run lower pressures. This will give you more of a contact area with the road surface, and therefore give you more grip. It will also improve your comfort. You do sacrifice rolling resistance and increase overall weight, but this may not be a bad thing for winter training miles. Sorry, I've not tried the GP 5000 AS. To me, it just looks like a reinforced version of the standard tyre..... So my logic tells me that the 4Season with its increased tread pattern would be a better winter choice. But as I say, I've not tried them, so I could be wrong.
@@ribblevalleycyclist thanks. Given I’m running tubeless, the 4season isn’t an option. The allseason does seem to be slightly thicker than the regular gp5000.
Hi, The Schwalbe G-One range is available in 650B, as is the Continental Grand Prix 5000. I would however say that 650 sized tyres are few and far between.
I have these GK SK, but in bigger size. I don't have too much experience with any other tyres (apart from knobby MTB tyres, but that's another story). Are these GKs really that bad? They've never let me down (even in below zero temps), but maybe I just don't have a good point of view because I didn't have a chance to compare them with other tyres in my gravel bike?
Hi Mick, I thought long and hard about putting that comment out, after all, a lot of people have spent their hard-earned on those tyres, and here I am rubbishing both what they own, and what they chose. If you use the GK SK for summer gravel/trail miles, then they will serve you well, and the harder compound will last longer than others. I ran a set last summer on my gravel bike, and they did an okay job. However, when the weather turned, so did the GK SK. They felt twitchy at speed on road, and slipped all over the place on wet trails. When you wear your GK's out, give the Schwalbe G-One Allround a try, you'll see an immediate difference. Thanks, Jon
@@ribblevalleycyclist Hi Jon, thanks for the reply, I am not offended by your negative opinion on an item I own, no worries. I've been thinking about switching to other tyres, but from other reasons (it turns out I'm spending more time on tarmac than gravel, and I'm leaving all the off-road rides to my MTB), so a narrower tyre with less pronounced tread pattern would be more suitable). Tbh these Schwalbe G-One Allrounds were not on my list. Maybe I will give them a chance. Thanks!
@@micktheshaggy3977 Hi Mick, If I spent most of my time on tarmac, I'd probably go with the Conti 4Season, but fit a 32. If however, you're doing a little bit of gravel/trail too, then the G-One is a good option. Keep us posted on what you go with.
Hi Roger, That, is a very good question...... and one I expected to get! The short answer is, yes, you can. The Conti Gator, and its tougher brother/sister, the Gator Harshell are exceptionally tough and hard wearing tyres. I've used them for thousands of miles myself. The advantage to them is that they're probably one of the most robust tyres you can get, which is important for winter riding, because who wants to sort a puncture in the winter?!?!. However, although the compound is rubber, it's hard. Not as hard as those cheap shiny plastic tyres that you see, but it is hard. And, hard is slippery. That example I made where tyres slip on steep wet climbs, Gators can do this. If you compared a 4-Season to a Gator, you'd feel the difference. I don't want to rubbish the Gator, because it's a tough winter workhorse, but it can be a little slippy when compared to others....... but far from the worst. I hope this helps answer the question.
From memory, the Gatorskins are an absolute nightmare to get off the rim. Less than ideal if you puncture out in the cold and wet!@@ribblevalleycyclist
Thanks for the reply. Whilst it might not be something i might use in winter however i am riding solo to France (avenue verte) in may'24 and for that i might use it...thoughts welcome.
Pro Tip: buy a smart trainer and a good fan and a Zwift subscription. Why you ask? Deep winter and snow. This investment will save you that medical bill from an icy crash. Plus, you will save $$$ from buying more winter kit. There is no such thing as a deep winter glove. I’ve tried them all. The longer you are out in the cold, the colder your hands will get and the more numb they will feel. More of your budget should be saved for a summer kit and components.
I’m nesh!!! Single figures and the Spatz overshoes and Castelli Alpha jacket are out. Also, currently testing heated insoles…… watch this space for the review video 👍
