▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - 5 More Tools Under $30 you Need To See ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zMvK5zyxqqI.html 🛠 Tools In This Video: DFM Square: amzn.to/3Jfb5H2 Thin Rip Jig: amzn.to/3LKm2lB DFM Saw Height Gauge: amzn.to/3jidia1 Spring Clamps: lddy.no/1575h Clamping Squares: lddy.no/1575g Small F-Clamps: lddy.no/157u9 More of my Favorite Under $30 Tools Massca Dowel Jig X - masscaproducts.com/products/dowel-jig-x?aff=3 Flush Trim Saw - amzn.to/3V0C2om Foldable Dovetail Saw - amzn.to/3EjoihA Rockler Router Set Up Jig - amzn.to/3ECXDO4 Organizer Trays (Gray) - amzn.to/3Gjh5kp Organizer Trays (Black) amzn.to/3AkTHPD Fastcap Tape Measure - amzn.to/3X7qaCC Outlaw's Board Butter Stickers - www.731woodworks.com/store/stickers (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
Hey brother sorry but have to ask, are you an Arkansas boy? Where youASP F33? I ask because I saw the plate on the bandsaw and ima retired cop in Arkansas myself. Love your channel btw! Take care!
not sure if this was ever mentioned, but glass reinforced nylon is actually 'fiberglass reinforced polyamides'. On such items you will often see 'PA66 GF %%' where the %% will be a number indicating the percentage of fiberglass infill(commonly 15 or 30%). This is a very robust material with high static load durability and temperature resistant. (knowledge comes from 10+yrs in plastics engineering and mold design)
Re: #4: I've found that many people don't know that the "squeeze pressure" of spring clamps is adjustable. Just use a screwdriver to *slightly* loosen or tighten the pivot screw and you'll change how tightly they clamp. It's important to make the adjustment when they're *not* clamping anything. Otherwise, you run the risk of stripping the threads. It only takes a small amount of adjustment to have an effect, so experiment a bit and get a feel for it. This works for every size of spring clamps I own, as long as they use a screw (actually a bolt and nut) as the pivot point and not a rivet. If you have a lot of clamps (don't we all?), adjust some to slightly lower pressure and others to higher, then either keep them separate where you store them or maybe put a dab of paint or use a grease pencil to mark one or the other group. That way, you won't have to adjust them every time you use a spring clamp when you need more or less pressure.
Thank you for your insightful comment. I never knew this even after 20 experience We need more advice comments like this. Learn something new all the time. Truly appreciated
@@yorselrus1996 I only found out when I bought a package of them (because we can never have too many) and one of them was loose. When I tightened it, it was much tighter than the rest of the package, so I experimented and found the clamping pressure is adjustable. It works for every size of that type of clamp that I have, which range from quite small to too big for me to operate with one hand. On a related note, the ones sold in the dollar stores are exactly the same as those sold in the big box and chain stores, but cost a lot less.
A caveat: using a tiny square to square up your table saw blade will only be effective if you can guarantee that the red throat plate, surrounding the blade, is level with the table top.
@@TheWhiteTrashPanda You do that. I do that. But I bet many others don't. I tend to use a longer engineers' rule to check for the levelness of the throat plate first.
Agreed, I usually use a digital angle finder, magnetically affixed to the blade. I tare it on the cast iron surface of the table first (obviously), so I'm able to get down to a tenth of a degree pretty reliably.
Just wanted to say thank you for putting this content out. There's a lot of wood working channels out there but a lot of them are super verbiose and I just fall asleep listening to them! You're to the point, straight forward and I've learnt so much. Wish I'd found you BEFORE I built my work bench!!! Argh nothing was straight but now I've found out why!
Man am I ever glade I found this video. I am just in the process of building my dream wood shop it only took 50 years 😊 I am going to ad these tools to my collection.
Matt, first I want to thank you for your service when you were in law enforcement and I enjoy all your videos. I was thinking about getting the thin rip jig but reviews say it doesn't get close enough to the blade on some table saws to make THIN cuts. What is the thinest cut you can make and what is the distance from your slots edge (closes to the blade) to the blade? Thanks and God bless!
Love the "It's Durable" line. Needed a good laugh and that fit the bill, clean and harmless!! Really appreciate Your Videos and I'm hoping to make use of Your Advice as I progress forward with crafts. Thank You Kindly Friend!!
Great practical info. I purchased the spring clamps and stretched short lengths of bicycle inner tubes over the ends to make clamps for attaching hardwood edging to plywood. There are several videos explaining this simple hack. Bottom line, I ended with 10 clamps for the price of one "store bought" clamp. They work great. Thanks.
Hello Matt. Thank you for your channel. If I may, I would like to offer a correction regarding the "Small Square" being used for table saw blade angle alignment. In your demonstration, it leads people to believe registering the blade to the insert will give accuracy to the angle of the blade. And that is just not true. One should use a square that can reach and register from the saw table top for accuracy, otherwise, there is no need to use a square for this task at all. Just sight down the blade and make your best guess. Anyway. Thank you for all you share and do. God bless you.
Agreed 100%. I always reference off the table and not the insert... they tend to not always be parallel to the table. Same goes for the miter saw... its insert may not be level with the bed.
I prefer a square with a wider blade when squaring my equipment. I currently use an engineers square but definitely see the value in adding the smaller square to my tool kit.
True, but if your small square is sitting only on the throat-plate....well, i hope that plate is exactly flat to the cast iron. it probably isn't, tho.
The glass reinforced nylon is fiberglass added to the nylon compound material used in the injection molding process to make the product stronger. I work with a lot of nylon resin such as nylon 6-6 and nylon 6-10. As well as glass added to polycarbonate.
Those spring clamps are ALSO great for fisherman… I kayak fish and use a large spring clamp on the end of a line. To tie up to trees or dock structure. They hold but not so tight you can’t quick release in an emergency…
Great video. As usual. One thing however, you shouldn’t align the table saw blade with the insert as it could be slightly off to the table. I use a square that sits on the table, not the insert.
I made a bunch of 90 degree clamping squares out of scrap mdf and plywood. Taylor tools is one of my favorite vendors for many quality products at reasonable prices. I bought a set of 4 machinist squares and 1 was small like the one in the video. Keep bringing your tool reviews.
On your advice bought the Fulton Thin Rip Jig... awesome tool, glad to see you got that Saw Stop God is Good... your videos are very good and informative. I'm a Wood Worker/Fix it when broken kinda guy... I've done a dozen Mission trips in Mexico so I have a fair amount of experience doing a lot of jobs from sheet rock, to plumbing, roofing, framing, siding... so I'm not afraid to tackle most jobs. Keep up the good work I really enjoy the videos!
Appreciate the videos! Just ordered one of each sized 10 packs of clamps and the 4 different sizes of clamping squares. Watched a bunch of your videos over the weekend and will have to check out your plans and plan bundles too.
Thank you for all the great information... My wife really enjoys when I get finished watching your videos and order them.. HA HA HA.. Just to let you know, that the Thin Strip Jig, is not really made for the METABO Table Saw. I can not get the jig close to make a "thin strip". I hope that you and the MS 731 are feeling better.
I love that mini square! I need the pink one. Your videos are great and I love your drawl. One thing with that thin rip tool and safety, turn the table saw off before grabbing the off cuts off the left side of the blade. Pieces can still kick back on that side, especially with little thin pieces
One easy trick for 1/4" rips specifically is to make a push stick out of 1/4" plywood on the bandsaw. The high top sneaker shape is my favorite lol. You can keep it under pressure all the way through the cut no problem. 1/8" inch rips??? Then I'd worry about the jig. Just another option that doesn't cost nothin.
Seems people like the thin rip jig, but I couldn't see using it except for paper thin rips. One of the best things about a table saw is the ability to set the fence once and make a bunch of rips of the same stock. Push stick too big? If it's a wooden one, don't worry your table saw will make a custom sized one for you after your first pass. Or better yet just make one out of some thin scrap. A zero clearance throat plate is honestly a more useful "tool" for thin rips.
Concerning the thin cut jig, it's just as easy to flip a plastic feather board around and use it as a stop for cutting the thin strips. The clamping squares can easily be made from quality plywood.
These are neat no doubt. I wonder though if using that square to match the blade to the table might have an error since the throat plate might have some error related to the table. Do you think a digital angle gauge might be better?
Great video! I have the small square but was just thinking of it as a "center finder." I was going to buy another small square.......you just saved me money! Thanks. DD
i use a 123 block to square my saw blade, I have that exact thin rip jig, and I use setup blocks for my height adjustments have many of the same clamps... We all have very similar tastes in tools because we are all working with similar product, wood... Great video, I really enjoy you stuff... Fist bump...
Glass filled nylon has fiber glass mixed into the plastic. When the parts are molded and the plastic sets, the fibers reinforce the plastic, making it extremely strong and ridged.
All great and usefull tools. The only thing I want to know if the DFM blocks are available in metric. Thanks and keep on doing what you do, great information all the time. From the Čech Republic 🇨🇿.
If anyone is going to be involved in woodworking, its best if you invest on tools that last. And not have every piece of tool been advertised. 1. I'll use my cast iron precision machined, Starrett combination square. I'll remove the blade and I have an accurate tool to measure. I can also find the center of a board with the combination square. No need to use the purple square. 2. Thin rip jig. I have used a T-Track clamp with a piece of wood held down, and can do the same thing you did. No need to use the Thin Rip Jig. $30 is not cheap. If my table saw or router don have a T-Track. There are clamps that use a magnetic base to secure the clamp holding the wood strip used to provide a stop. 3. DFM setup block. A combination square does the same thing. No need for another tool. 4. Prefer all metal C-Clamp locking clamps with pivoting jaws. Provide stronger grip. And never break. And if covered with glue, resin, stain, paint, or whatever. Can be cleaned up with a brass brush. Last forever. Can hand them down to your kids. And don't need to hold them open. Just put in, and clamp. Easier on sore hands. 5. Prefer the metal square clamps, made out of aluminum. Those last a lifetime.
those clamping squares look good especially for the price. it'd be cool tho if you could pick which color you want for them like you can with the DFM square
Another necessity is a wood grain direction detector. It's nice you recommend that thin strip cutting guide, but I don't have, never need nor will I ever get a table saw, router table or miter saw.
I have watched soooo many videos like this with dumb tools no one would ever buy - this video, I want them all! Wife probably wouldn't approve. But all these tools are things I wish I had last summer. Can't wait to pick some of them up!
Really like your delivery and content. Comment : when you use the small square to true up your TS blade, you're actually squaring the blade with your TS throat plate. If the plate is off, doesn't that make your TS blade off as well? Best regards, WMC
Love your channel, and that you simplify everything. Thanks for thinking of us on a budget & for wearing your Christian shirts & sharing Jesus in the bonus links!!
Good morning Matt,,have you ever made a waking stick , cane? With the head of a masonry hammer. I’m asking because i want to do one and would appreciate any pointers.
Glass reinforced nylon. Is handy if you get it out of shape somehow. Because if you put it in the fridge over night it will reform to square in the cold.
It’s just over $30, but Lee Valley sells pairs of aluminum clamping squares (90 degree assembly braces is the product name) that are easier to clamp, and when you use them on the edges you can push the wood inside the square. Also made in the USA! Taylor Tools is great, but the extra functionality on the aluminum ones (also holes in case you want to use fasteners) are just so good that I have to recommend.
Great information, all those tools I would agree as needs, not just wants for a shop. The only thing with the mini square is I’d loose the darn thing…😎
I have that taper jig. I put a setup block against my saw blade, then the bearing wheel of the jig against that so I know exactly how thick my rips will be. Works great, use it often!
Good job Matt! I've been thinking about the thin rip jig, may have to get one on order. I recently purchased the 6" spring clamps and all four of the corner clamping squares sets offered by Taylor Toolworks. Both items are well made and a great value in my opinion. Taylor Toolworks is one of my favorite places to order from. :)
What makes the thin strip rip jig better than just putting a magnet down or using a featherboard backwards (solid corner) at the desired location? I love to buy tools, but I try to buy ones that have many use cases.
@@HuntsWorkshop Certainly nothing wrong with the methods you mentioned. I’ve done the feather board technique, worked great. I ordered the thin rip jig because the price was right and I had a (small) Amazon gift card to use.😀
Thanks Matt! Those are a great set of small tools! I think I have 1 of them so I might be picking up some other ones! Tons of blessings to you for sharing!
Glass fiber reenforced means the plastic used in that part was mixed w fiber glass during the molding process to make a stronger plastic. The plastic parts in your power tools are usually reinforced so they don’t shatter the first time you drop them
the first one would replace a couple of tools that I have made or modified for those jobs, but where to keep those little pins when not in use so you don't lose them? really liked the thin rip jig the last squares seem like I could make some out of scrap lumber that I've trued up, or some flat stock welded to be true. but the price ain't terrible if someone doesn't wanna spend the time and has some extra Hamiltons.
Using the blade height tool on the router, just use the mini square against the side of it that’s on the router to level it our when the other side hangs over
That's a handy little square but you have to be careful about the blade insert. They are usually adjustable and often times do not reflect the surface of the table itself.
