Awesome tips! Just a few recommendations on the added receptacle is that the added to the van. I'll preface this as I am a liscenced electrician. For safety I would replace that receptacle with a wr gfci. Reasons being for potential water splash or if something that is plugged in accidentally falls in water. Just like any receptacle near a water source is required by code. Also when mounting any receptacle horizontally, by code the hot side prong needs to be always on the bottom. Reasons for safety and potential grounding out or something falling onto the prongs when removing or plugging in. The last thing I would recommend is putting some sort of weather proof cover instead of a standard house plate. Again, for safety and Reasons stated above.
thank you, this is good advise, I have pinned your comment and I am going to replace the receptacle with a GFCI. Also, good advise on how to mount it horizontally. I never thought about that but I guess every little bit helps when it comes to safety.
I just did your #3 Upgrade: Carpet the Shelf. Great idea, love it! I went one step further and painted the underside flat black. It REALLY cuts down on the glare and stops the annoying reflection from outside the passenger window. Thank you!
Before, I felt bad for owners who paid so much and still needed to do things the manufacturer should have done. After I saw Storyteller given a portable potty for a gig over $150K, I stopped complaining. BTW, great video! 👍👍👍
Great video! I recently acquired a Thor Sanctuary (also on the Sprinter 4x4 chassis). The wiring in the cassette toilet compartment is exactly the same and I thought it would surely become a problem. I’ll also address the exposed wires for the e-brake. Thanks, will look forward to more of your videos.
KUDOS! Very well done. Inexpensive little upgrades that I will do while saving up for the other mods I want to do, I just added a 28-gallon auxiliary fuel tank, ladder, spare tire carrier, stop the sway package, auxiliary lights all around outside of van, and heated seats. More to come.
@@david_does_life Yeah I thought the same thing. Dealer said no heated seats because the seats swivel, not true My upholster had kits that worked perfectly total cost was only 477.00 no problem with swiveling and very clean install and man are the toasty.
@@mtnride4930 I’m quite sure even Mercedes offers heated swivel seats; straight from the factory. Also Winnebago got rid of the power sliding door starting with the 2021 Revel
You gotta check out the Jayco Terrain! The following items are a summary of the Terrain's specs and features as compared to the Revel: -10.2 kW of lithium output vs the Revel's 3.2 kW (Run an AC for 8.5-11 hours straight on a full charge vs 3.5 hours in a Revel) -The AC is STANDARD and is 48V, meaning no converter needed = higher efficiency (110V AC option on Revel) -STANDARD black aluminum wheels and off-road tires (option on Revel) -Upgraded shocks and sway bar -Front light bar -Sliding and reclining rear passenger seats that spread apart to provide more shoulder room -Exterior speakers -On-board air compressor -Powered rear passenger window -Electric powered, heated, and memory front seats -Cassette dump station utility light -The van is spec'd as a passenger van with a large window in the sliding door vs the Revel is spec'd as a cargo van and they cut out a small window -The clothes line in the shower is retractable -2 YEAR LIMITED WARRANTY vs Revel's 1 year limited warranty
I wonder what took other manufactures so long to make a decent Revel copy. The Jayco looks nice for sure and might have some features the Revel doesn't have - and vice versa. Looking forward to some real-life compare reviews, Revel vs Terrain
You have Great tips! I want to do the power button for the bed. I not really clear as to where exactly the wires are soldered. Any clarification would be appreciated! Keep the videos coming!
thank you. stop the video at 2:21 . here. you can see 2 yellow wires, soldered to J1 and J2 on the circuit board. the switch (original or replacement) connect to these 2 wires. with the switch closed, you have a connection between J1 and J2 and the bed can be moved. with the switch open, J1 and J2 are not connected and no bed control is possible. If you want to get rid of the switch entirely, you can also directly connect J1 and J2 on the circuit board, then the bed can be operated all the time. Hope that helps.
Hi, Thank you very much for your Revel modification videos! I don’t have a Revel *yet*, but I am definitely going to make some of these modifications when I do get my van. You have lessened my fear in doing small repairs and modifications with your clear explanations. Do you by chance have any schematic drawings you could share of the switches and LEDs you have installed, for those- like me- who are not electrically inclined- but are willing to learn DIYers? (I’m thinking of your SOG installation video- how did you route/connect that indicator LED? Even a list of basic tools one would need, which could be posted below the video in the info section would be REALLY helpful for those of us starting out. Thank you again for your Revel videos. I can’t wait to see what you upgrade or modify next!
hi Catherine. thank you very much. While I don't have any drawings/schematics for any of my upgrades - I make things up as I go along - I am happy to help and provide and answer questions in more detail. You can find my email address in the 'about' section of my RU-vid channel. feel free to reach out. As for the tools list..well, I thought about that. I know many similar RU-vid channels list the tools used in the videos. I decided not to do that and here is why: Almost all my upgrades can be done with a very basic set of tools, like a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. But since I have a lot of tools, I might use an electric impact screw gun or a dedicated wrench. Or if I strip some wires, I want to use my high-precision wire stripper but a kitchen knife would also work. And instead of soldering 2 wires together, well twisting them together and wrap them with some electrical tape works as well. Should I list the basic tools and then not use them in the video? or should I list them and then use them, making these upgrades a lot harder and less enjoyable for me? or should I show all my special tools, this might scare people if they think they have to have these tools. If you want to get into DIY (and if you are buying a Revel or any other RV, you absolutely should get into DIY 🙂) my advise would be to start with a basic "automotive" tool set, containing a few screw drivers, pliers, and a couple of wenches and sockets in both metric and SAE. then add project specific tools as you go along. When I do my projects, I go through all the required steps in my head several times, always asking myself 'do I have the right tool/method to remove this bolt, this screw, this piece..." and then add to my toolbag if I come across something I cannot yet tackle.
Awesome video - thank you ! There is always a project for the Revel! Any chance you could give location for the electrical box cut out so I can skip the magnet part 😀
hi Fred, the bottom right corner of the cutout is 3in left of the edge of the table when folded up and 3in above the metal plate where the water valves are. However, I don't know how much variance there is in Winnebago's production line and I cannot guarantee the same dimensions work in your Revel.
thank you. yes, they are adjustable. look at the shot at 14:36, each of these oval slots is where the shelf hangers can be clipped into. I'd say they are about 3/4in apart which gives a very high level of adjustability
Thanks for this and other mod videos. Very helpful. Can you tell me the diameter of the flex conduit you added in the cassette compartment? Thanks... Your videos are easy to watch. Great editing!
hi Jamie, no, sorry. and I don't even know if all Lowe's carry the same selection. All I can say it was an "utility" carpet. they had it "by the foot" in the carpet section but not on their big carpet elevator where the "residential" carpet is on. Next time I go to Lowe's I can get a name/SKU
@@orange13 Having replaced the inverter, the hydronic heater and the trouble I've had with the awning, I'd rather just shorten the key that get into the wiring and the cover. But that's your call. Simply cutting the key shorter takes less than 2 minutes and achieve your original goal. When it comes time to sell, this 'hack' might not be as attractive as you thought it was. The other improvements were great. Cheers.
By replacing that switch you just made a serious safety hazard!!!. Its not meant for the key to be left on the switch... so it can't be broken! that little key should be on the van key ring!!! They put it there so that a silly 5 year old doesn't crush you by closing the bed while your sleeping on the bed!!! Please think why something is engineered to be like that before you jump in and make changes...
@@orange13 oh of course, I really loved the upgrade... looks more professional too. I just wanted to point that out for other families with kids... I'm seriously considering getting a revel myself and thanks for the tips...
@@Amer-yl4gb thank you. Yes, not every upgrade is for everyone. by the way, if you buy a Revel and travel with children that are intrigued by buttons and blinking lights, you might want to cover the battery shutoff button, next to the 2 blue LEDs. While pressing (and holding for a few seconds = shutoff batteries) will not crush you to death, it will most likely cause major ($$$) damage to the house battery system/alternator.
I've been wondering what would happen is that silly 5 year old hit the Awning deploy button at 60 mph? I just did the be switch upgrade on my Revel, love it. Feels safer to me since the button is glowing red when the bed is activated. Previously you had to look to see if the key was left in and know what position is on. Now I can see if the bed is activated anywhere in the front or even outside the van.