"There's a lot of dirt outside, in fact, that's where they keep all that dirt. Outside." My children would like to disagree. Awesome vid as always, looking forward to the pure pigment one as well.
Alright, we may not keep ALL of it outside... but for the most part I think we try to keep to all that we can of it out there. Some of us are just less successful about doing that at times.
One thing I also like to do is dye my texture paints like vallejo sand with pigments. Not only does that make it really easy to just have a different colored base it more often than not makes for better rust texture than my regular rust paints.
Making my own Typhus Corrosion? You are offically my Hero , Vince! I go through a lot of Typhus Corrosion painting my beloved Death Guard and I am so tired of pots drying out. I have loads of pigments made by Huge Miniatures here in Ohio and you just saved me a lot of headache. Thank you so much for all of the free ideas. :) You are a true asset to our little hobby community.
6:04 another great thing for vehicles is the Tamiya clear paints. I use the orange one for rusting and also for leakage (lubricant, oil or whatever) for example, you could apply it here where you have the rivets, so it's like water leaking out. It works quite well as new rust/still wet etc. I got it initially for leakage, but it certainly works for rusted areas as well, where you want to show some water still coming out of the machine parts.
Nice Video. Little suggestion if you want to save some money: buy chalk pastels and crush them up to a fine powder. They work about as well as the pre made pigments, but a box of cheap pastels costs about 5-10 bucks, you get loads of colour(even some brighter ones for maybe magic effects?). Also great for experiments.
Making a wash with isopropanol and pigment is a great way to weather vehicles, as it means you can get into details better than you can with it in powder form. I mean I guess you can still get in there with the powder, but it gets on everything. With the wash you can be way more controlled in your application.
Searching for this is exactly what brought me to this video -- was wondering if I could mix powder pigment with alcohol to make my own "streaking grime"
I thought I would just learn about painting miniatures from Vince, but here I am getting tips that really bolster my 2D painting as well! Especially in videos like this, his color-series, and OST tips. Thanks Vince!! You're the best!!!!
Thanks for the informative video, Vince! I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been nervous to use them. That skin trick is insane! Good all around guide for using these and making them a more approachable tool.
Lol only saw the top of this comment and hoped it finished; _"... I recently picked up some pigments from Vallejo and I've just been staring at them."_
Thank you so much. I started the journey of miniature painting 3 month ago and was able to achieve amazing results by watching your videos and applying the technique.
I came to you again for some advice on pigments for aging stuff and you blew my mind with those soft shadows trick!... You've all the tricks mate, this videos are always gold!👏👏
Have been experimenting with "hobby" pigments more lately and really loving them. Besides the obvious reasons, I think I figured out why. The pigment is so finely grained that my brain excepts it as in scale.
Loving the look of the pigment work! I would definitely suggest being careful with the artist pigments. These are meant to be mixed with oil and turned into paints so in their powder form some are very dangerous! Check the MSDS, wear protective equipment, and maybe seal the toxic powders like cadmiums, cobalts, etc. if you go with the vibrant colors.
Very nice video! My tip: mix dry pigment with linseed oil to make your own oil paint. For most colors it would be easier to buy the paint, but you can make for example fluorescent oil paint or simply the paint you don’t already have but you need it, and you have the pigment.
Great video, I am in the process of painting my Deagostini Millennium Falcon and there are plenty of rust marks and damage areas for pigment to apply. Now I have to buy some, thanks.
I like to use Isopropyl 90% first and then i use a varnish (50/50 glue/water) with an indirect application to lock the pigments down. It's an old scale modeling truck I learned from my Dad. Seems to work for me.
"In fact, that's where they keep all the dirt, outside". Learning something new everyday :D Ontopic: Nice video. I never tried pigments because I was under the impression these were only used to make things look dirty. Will check them for the bases now, thnx.
That what they are mostly used for. You can also achieve some finer effects like OSL with them if you get some brighter coloured ones (or maybe a magic effect on the base). You have to experiment with them a little bit, like every new paint, they are just a tool and it falls back to you what you can achieve with them.
Good tips as usual. As to the bonus one, you can also use bicarbonate of soda for much the same effect if you don't have pigments around. As it's white, it tends to just take the colour of whatever paint you use, making for some interesting possibilities. It's very good for sand bases and dirt textures on minis.
Thank you very much! This was a super useful and informative video. All these tips and tricks that you have learned over the years and share with us helps us all get batter. So thanks!
just what I was needing. I have been getting into pigments recently, but mainly just buying them, Lol (not used them yet on my minis) I mostly got them for bases, and for vehicles though. I have used them when mixed with isopropanol for getting into details, but I've not used them in their powder form yet. I just assumed they'd fall off without some kind of fixer. PS: I have also used green stuff world liquid pigments. they are actually great. I know citadel no the oxide (turquoise) one as well, which is similar. The GS world turquoise oxide one is waaaay better though.
excellent video I like making a pigment wash, put it where you need, let it dry and then come back in with an old brush and rough it up. Found it was good if you want to keep the top layer of colour a little more clearer, or having the pigment colour stronger in the recesses. Like the adding water after for the rust though!
Amazing stuff Vince! I have recently got back into the hobby and you have been an invaluable help in upping my painting and craft skills. Some twenty odd years ago, I worked in a tourist attraction in the UK that was a series of caves where they used to mine iron ore. They gave me some raw red ochre pigment that I rediscovered in my art draw recently. It's an amazing asset for me as I'm building a rockgut troggoth army who, well, live in caves so with your tips my bases are looking like the caves I once worked in (thankfully there were no troggoths down there). Can't wait to try it out on the minis themselves! Trying to make the rocks look slippery and green led me to another use of pigment. Green Stuff World's 'wild moss' is great for green mould/algae stains on rocks when fixed with a wash or Isopropyl alcohol as you showed in your other vids. Mixed with their 'mud medium' and worked on a bit it can make great algae for rock pools and slippery rocks too. I haven't tried it for actual moss effects yet, but will experiment with that soon.
Really great video showed me some great techniques i will try out. I RL entropy stuff with plenty of rust and corrosion, find pigments mixed with tile grout or talc and a bit water makes a great rough corroser surface effect
These are great techniques. I never thought to use IPA or water to gather the pigment to make rust more realistic, that's definitely something I have to try. It's worth noting that Jeremy from Black Magic Craft has a good video on how to make very cheap pigment powder by using chalk. I'd check that out if you don't want to overpay, or if you want a specific color.
This is amazing! I LOVE knights and I always end up painting them as battleworn as best I can, but achieving this purely with paint and drybrush (I'm still very new to painting) always looks cool enough from a distance, but I always felt like something was sorely missing. I'm deffo gonna get hold of some pigments! The tip about skin was brilliant, my wife is about to paint a giant and I have to show her this ASAP
Ork scrap metal bases are maybe the best candidate for these pigments I reckon if you're just starting using then. Just 'trying them out' on an Imperial Knight metal painted leg for example at the end of your main painting task for them is a bit too risky. Bases I see as a free for all which plays second fiddle to the main piece which is the miniatre sat on top of it !
6:25 on metals yes, on fragile paintjobs like airbrushed layers I found dat IPA (even lower percentages) tend to damage the paintjob in one way or another (even after layers of varnish). White spirits is a good alternative that is safe to use. Bonus is that I found that white spirit preserves the pigment (both the color and where and how you placed the pigment) way better than IPA/medium/varnish/paint/water etc. Slight downside is fixes the pigment less than the rest of the options; still more than not fixing it at all though.
Regarding the chunky paint. I have found that layering multiple rust tones can mush the pigment together and reduces the texture. To avoid this, you can mix a sprinkle of sand in with the first pigment layer. I also like to fix my pigment in place with some brown or black oil washes to darken recesses and create tonal variation. I also like to sprinkle pigment with a shaker or by placing some in the container lid and tapping it onto the model. Its messy and only suitable for larger models, but it gives a different look compared to if it was painted on with a brush.
I usually use pigments as washes on my bases. Pigment+Water+matt varnish. It works great. I then drybrush edges on metal parts. I work on mostly green/blue GCPS team atm and after watching your video decided to add redish pigment on painted bases for some contrast. Will airbrush matt varnish on top to fix them in place... New way of doing It so I hope It will look great.
I've never used pigment powders, but now I might have to give them a go. I was planning on painting a 40k dreadnought at some point, so these techniques would be perfect for weathering.
As a thought I wonder if they would work with a loaded brush. I'm imagining that you could get some pigment on the brush and then work a bit of paint into the brush and stipple/dry brush the model. My guess is that the colour will mix with the pigment in the brush and get progressively darker
@@VinceVenturella Wet brush + pigment = chunky mud. I did it on a recent figure. Got my sacrificial brush wet/blotted, dipped tip in the pigment and gave it a shake, then applied to the figure. Result was CHUNKY mud bits. Figure posed running through a forest, so mud was needed. I think you'd need a lot of specialized control and practice to not just end up with smeary slop. Sometimes you want smeary slop though.
Thank you Vince for another great tutorial. May I ask: Have you used pastels for a economic source of pigments and, How do you apply the binding agent so you dont wipe the pigments off?
I always learn something from your videos! Thank you. In the past you’ve done you “go to” paints videos. What would you say are your “go to” pigments for the techniques in this video?
you did kinda adress it in the video, but life hack for people who don't wanna spend sixty bucks a month on citadel washes: get a set of dry pastel crayons (not oily, but chalky ones) get a bottle of isopropyl grind or scrape a little dust off a crayon, deposit into desired recess, wet and let dry. one three inch crayon will last you virtually a lifetime and they come in packs of like 30 in all manner of hues
Friggin cool. I came across the use of pigment by accident this week and absolutely in love with it. Love the advice on rust effect :D do you normally varnish the model after applying ? I have left mine unvarnished.
also, such a shame Secret weapon stopped making pigments. I tried to find the Orange rust they had just prior to them closing, it looked perfect for a Mars planet.
Really love your tutorials and I am learning a lot.. Thank you so much😊. I want to Start with some pigments for basing and dust at the minature feets. Do you have a recommendation for some colors to start with? I have almost only fantasy minis and based them in a kind of highland style or ruins style (cursed city).
Really cool video, I've never seen a 'metallic zenithal' type thing before. Will be giving this a go with some Grey Knights and my new airbrush, which your videos pushed me to buy. I may have missed it, but how do/would you varnish figures like these, mainly metallics with a few matt details? Gloss varnish over everything and matt the non-metallics by brush?
I recently got some pigments that I intended to use for basing, so it's cool to see other uses for them as well. I'll definitely have to give it a go. On a different note, do you have any tips for handling large monsters? Like, the physical handling. I've been trying to paint up a big 3D printed dragon, but the paint keeps rubbing off the outer edges (tips of wings, ridges of scales etc). It doesn't really fit on any of my painting handles, and poster putty doesn't hold it at all with its weight. I tried handling it with gloves on, but I'm still losing paint - in some places even losing primer. It's created some really nasty textures in places, that I'm probably going to have to strip to get rid of. Any advice would be appreciated!
I drill pegs into their feet, then put that into cork and put it onto something I can attach to a large dowel. The other option is varnish often - the varnish can help seal things in.
Fantastic video, thank you! But question please : do the pigments stay "in place", when dropped by the brush ? Or need to use some varnish afterwards ? But if so, will the pigments "move" and dilute themselves ? Thank you
So in general, if the pigments are really worked into something like the base, they will pretty much stay, In general, if I have any concerns, then I just give it an all over varnish.
Love the video. I've grabbed some pastels and want to make my own pigments; should I even bother picking up the hobby versions? Only other question, which I don't think I ADHD tuned out for, is every company sells a "pigment sealer". Are these necessary? I've only seen them used for basing so the "pigments don't fall off over time". Necessary? Also, when using on miniatures like the blended ogre skin, would you varnish over top of it to seal it before adding any other paints on top? Thanks a bunch and keep up the awesome work!
You can certainly make you're own pigments, though some of these have some nice tones you might not get through your grinding. As to the fixers, certainly they aren't bad, I often just seal them in with an airbrush varnish, but they aren't really necessary if you're really working them into the base. If you're talking about on the model itself, then yes, you want to fix it somehow (but again, I just go for all over varnish).
Hi Vince! I seem to also remember your suggesting to mix pigment into white or black for free hand, if memory serves? That'd be bonus 2? :-) Oh wait, my bad: that was inks into paint, wasn't it? An experimental idea: people are used to tainting epoxy resin with inks to avoid particles, but I guess if you want a swamp with particles in the water, you could use pigments? Not should how to mix them in though, would they "stay as dirt" or "mix like they do in paint"?
What are your “go to” pigment powders? What are the “nice to have”? Which powders would you get if you were starting out with them (knowing what you know now)? Should someone include metallic pigment powders like with your “best gold” mix when assembling their pigment shopping list?