“Weekend Woodworkers”would need several lifetimes to amass the tips you share. Thank you, Kenny, for passing them on so we can all benefit and experience the satisfaction and of “making something.” Well done!
Personally speaking, I found the hole saw tip and the threaded insert tip earth shaking! Never seen these tricks before and wouldn't have thought of them. THANKS for sharing!!
Great stuff! Man, I tell you what. That circle hole tip did kinda blow my mind. Ha! Super cool! All of it was definitely helpful and I know I’ll incorporate them in my shop. Thanks for sharing this, Kenny! Stay safe and keep up the great work! 👊🏼
I have to say that I watch all of the shop tip videos I can find and these tips are some of the best and most useful, at least for me, that I have seen... Very well done sir...
Glad to hear that you liked the show and found it useful Joel. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
I've been called a lot of things in my life, but brilliant has never been one of them until now. Thanks. I appreciate you tuning in to the show Deb and taking the time to leave your kind words.
Owwww! My forehead is sore from ‘beating my head against the wall’ trying work thru some of these same problems! And now, as I watch, I’m slapping my poor bruised ole noggin 🤦🏻♂️ saying “Now why didn’t I think of that?” LOL But on a serious note, thank you for sharing in your super concise ,clear way! Always pick up something from your videos! Stay well!
Five orginal practical tips that showcase your ability to think outside the box, brillant! I especially like the hole saw on the drill press; simple but so useful. Thanks Kenny!
Excellent and useful. Thanks. My hole saw burning problem was solved when my new Voyager DVR Drill Press recommended a very slow speed for hole saws. Burning was eliminated and I had better control. I really like the magnetic dust chute mod but I'll need to add magnets to my own dust chute since I found Veritas is a bit pricey.
I can't argue with you that Veritas products are pricey, but I am a big fan of their quality. I don't think I've ever had a product from them that I wasn't happy with. Glad that you enjoyed the show Ken. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to chime in with your comments. It's very much appreciated.
Good tips Kenny. I like the way that you take a lot of time to explain and show how things are done. That really helps as far as I'm concerned. Thanks for all the good video's you put out. Thumbs UP!!
Glad that you liked the tips Doug. You are probably right that two dowels will be sufficient for the sand paper jig. Probably a little easier to line up as well. Good luck with your jig and thanks for tuning in.
I'm familiar with most of these tips. The metal plate is an excellent idea. The jig for the sanding disks I'm aware of and I'm continually reminded to make one when using my sander. But I forget about it until the next time I use my ROS. No excuse really for not taking a few minutes to make the jig when I'm again reminded.
Glad that you liked the show Dwight. There are a million tips and tricks out there for our hobby and it's hard to pick just five for the show. Glad to hear that you 5 I chose were a good choice. Thanks for tuning in this week.
VERY good episode! Some thoughts: 1) I’ve always wondered why the square pad sanders come with a plastic plate to punch the holes in sandpaper but the random orbital sanders don’t! I’ll be making one of these! 2) The hole saw trick was reminiscent of the bushcraft “bow drill” fire by friction method. That was a really cool idea! Can’t wait to use it! 3) I spent $700 on a mini metal lathe to center drill round stock accurately, and you whip out a Forster bit and scrap of plywood and do the same thing for nothing! If the wife hears of this, I’m going to be living in a tent, and using those fire by friction skills! Ha! Thanks KW!
The square sanders use the plastic plate because it has edges that allow it to be used . Random orbit sanders have no corners to allow for aligning where the holes are. You would have to feel around for them.
LOL. I hope your wife never finds out. I have to say I got a great chuckle from your comment. Thanks for the laugh. I appreciate you tuning in and taking the time to chime in with your input. It's very much appreciated. Thanks.
You make a good point about this Al. I've never really thought about why one comes with a plate and the other doesn't. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your input.
Hey Kenny thanks for this video the hint for doing wheels works very well, I was suprised at how easy it was to go thru pine and get a great finish. Some more videos like this please.
Glad that you enjoyed the show and the tips Paul. You will definitely see more videos like this on the channel in the future. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave your comment.
Oh jig idea from the dowel drilling tip... Make a jig that has all the size dowels you use all drilled on one board, labeled and equal distances apart for stop purposes and keep it by the drill press. Simple but then you'll always haven it at the ready.
Great idea Amber and I'm sure it will be useful to many of the viewers. Thanks for tuning in to the show and chiming in with your idea. It's appreciated.
I realize it's been two years since this video was posted, so it's unlikely you'll see this Comment, but I must thank you for it. Virtually every woodworking RU-vidr does a Tips-n-Tricks video with the same tired ol' content. This one is not only unique, but the tips are actually USABLE, and I'm going to bookmark it for future reference. You've earned a Like and my Subscription.
Welcome aboard as a subscriber Scotty. I'm glad to have you here. I've been producing this channel for over 10 years now and there are over 750 episodes of the show on the channel. I do my very best to answer each and every comment that is left here on the show, regardless of how old the show is. I still monitor the comments and answer them all. After all, if you were good enough to take time out of your day to watch the show and leave a comment, the least I can do is take time out of my day and reply to you. Thanks for the kind words and for subscribing. I hope that you will find plenty show of interest to you. There's a little bit of everything on here. Friday is the woodworking themed shows and Tuesday can be anything from welding to reviews to tips and tricks. I hope you enjoy your stay here. Feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
Thanks Kenny for your Video there’s not many Tips and tricks video’s that I think need saving but this is definitely one that does so many thanks Kenny Mate for Five top tips and tricks
Live all the tips Ken and especially the one while using the hole saw. I always have burn marks as you displayed and thought it was due too inferior saws only but now I see that is not the case Harleymike/chicago
I think the issue is that when the dowels get longer, you can't press down on the sanding pad to make contact if the sandpaper is too far down on the dowels. You could still make another set for storage but just not for both. Regards, Bill
Couldn't agree more Bill. You just have to be careful not to make them too long as when the stack of sanding discs gets lower, the dowels protrude further into the machine and you could damaged the interior workings of your sander. Great idea though. Thanks for tuning in Bill and for chiming in with your suggestion. It's appreciated.
This is also true Bill. But I think the longer dowels were meant to be just a little bit longer. I don't think we are talking about 3" long here. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in to the conversations.
Glad to have you as a subscriber Michael. There are two versions of the show which airs on Tuesdays and Fridays. Friday is the woodworking portion and Tuesday is the "whatever I feel like that day" portion. It could be anything from tool reviews and assemblies, to welding, pyrography, rants or anything else I feel like. There are well over 500 episodes of the show so I hope you will be able to find other episodes that you might enjoy. Thanks for subbing, for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.
Great tips Kenny is that how you did your spacer for the chain link for the model your making ? Can not wait to see the finish model it looks awesome so far.
No. The spacer was made in a completely different method Raymond. It's been a really long build so far but I am enjoying it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
GREAT show, Ken! I particularly liked the second tip. I have been frustrated trying to put various things on the router table where a magnet would have helped. Now, since you made the sandpaper jig in tip 1, are you going to stop buying those multi-hole sheets of sand paper? ;o) Regards, Bill
I will most likely not get the multi hole sheets any longer Bill. I bought them accidentally last time and realized my mistake only after I opened them. Either way, I'm glad that you enjoyed the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Which table are you referring to Craig? The one that my drill press sits on or the one with the fence? Either way, the cabinet that the drill press sits on was bought at Home Depot and I made the drill press table with the fence here on the show. It's a 3 part series but here is a link to part one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3qrv-TZEmjE.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Here are some other techniques that I use inspired by this video. When you cut a hole with a hole saw and often cant get the cut portion out of the saw easily because it sinks too deep, and the slots on the side are too small for prying. What I do is drive a screw into the wood trapped in the saw and when the tip of the screw hits the top of the hole saw, it brings out the wood evenly and easily. Of course this only works when the cut portion in the saw is waste. My other technique is similar to your threaded insert tip. If I need to tap some threads in metal, I will use my drill press to chuck the tap and turn the chuck by hand. I have a rod that fits in the key holes exactly, but you can also turn the pulley if you need more leverage. As with your threaded insert, it ensures the tap is perpendicular and applies even pressure reducing the chance of tap breakage. With my new Nova Voyager Drill press, it allows tapping in metal with the motor turned on. I enter "Tapping mode" and set the RPM to 50. It will stop and reverse automatically if it senses too much load.
Great tips David. I love that tapping feature of the Nova drill press. It sounds incredible. Maybe one day, I will have to spend some of the show's budget on it. Thanks for tuning in this week and for taking the time to chime in with your added tips. I appreciate it, as do the other viewers I'm sure.
@@acutabove_woodworkingsIf you decide to splurge on the Nova Drill Press they are sold under the King Canada brand. There is no comparison to a belt driven variable speed DP. Direct drive is compact, whisper quiet, dynamically adds power according to load. I have the Voyager ($2,000) which has a 1.75 hp motor, 18 inch swing, 6 inch spindle travel, bigger table 50 to 5,500 RPM. The Nova Viking ($1,400) has a 1 hp motor 16 inch swing, 4.5 inch spindle travel, 150-5,000 laser cross hairs and built in light. The Viking is sold as a table top model in the US, but King spec’ed it as a floor model in Canada. Happy to tell you more if and when you decide to shop
@@woodysranch2690 Thanks for all the added information. I truly appreciate it. If the day comes when I pull the trigger on one, I'll be sure to reach out for some added information.
I made a router table a few years ago and now just able to use it. Man, I thought I wasted money, but I found out a router table can do a ton. Is the miter slide worth it? I decided not to put a combo track on my formica/mdf table top.
While I haven't used the mitre slide as much as I thought I might Chuck, it has been useful. I don't regret purchasing it. I hope this helps. Sorry for the delayed response on this comment. For some reason, it got categorized in the spam folder. Thanks for tuning in.
Some of these ideas seem "simple" after seeing them. With drilling a hole in a round dowel (something I've done before), after seeing your method, when using a fence and a stop, screws could be used on the outside of the jig to center the dowel. The dowels I buy usually are a tight fit which is surprising.
There are definitely ways to do this or improve on what I've demonstrated here today James. Thanks for chiming in with your suggestion. It's a great one. I appreciate you tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave a comment.
Kenny, I’ve tried for hours to get my drill press laser line to line up but as I raise and lower it the intersection changes. 🤦🏻♂️ how did you get yours so perfect?
It's all about micro adjustments and testing. It doesn't take much to get the laser to move one way or the other. Make extremely small adjustments to the laser and test. Just like calibrating any tool, it's all a matter of patience and perseverance. I hope that helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Have you ever tried this with the glory hole drilled INSIDE the cut, like if you wanted the hole to be cleanly drilled? I’m curious if the saw teeth would still force the dust outward, or would it obediently fall to the inside of the bore. Hole saws have not been a favorite of mine due to their evil, wicked, mean and nasty characteristics! That is unless I’m roughing in plumbing or electrical!
It all depends on what area you want to keep Tom. I guess the simple answer is yes. I have placed the relief hole (a glory hole is something completely different. Don't google it) on both the inside and the outside of the hole saw kerf and the result is the same in both cases. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave your question. For the record, I'm not a big fan of hole saws either.
@@acutabove_woodworkings This is one of the greatest workshop tips I’ve ever seen! I’ve used it several times since I commented with great results! And I promise, no googling! Ha! Thanks Kenny!
You talk about holesaw??? If so. Some of us dont need the hole. We need the circle in perfect shape. I rough cut it on bandsaw and finish on lathe using pen mandrel.
Although I've already seen your other comment Marcel, I will answer this one in case someone else was wondering the same thing. For model makers, it is the core of the hole saw's drilling that we are interested in for making the wheels of a model but I completely agree with you that using a forstner bit is the way to go for larger holes in stock. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave your comment. It's appreciated.
I don't even bother with the bandsaw Marcelo. Most of my model's wheels are turned on the lathe using a pen mandrel as well. But there are some folks that don't have a lathe or there are some models (like the one I am currently building) that just need a hole saw and no other method will do. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your method. It's very much appreciated.
I wouldn't say "stupid you" Marcel. You saw the hole saw for the purpose it was intended, which was to drill a hole. The thought of using it to keep the core never occurred to you because it may not be a method that suits your current woodworking needs. Nothing wrong with that. The ability for all woodworkers to see things differently and have a different procedure to achieve the same results is what makes it so that we never run out of way to keep learning from each other. It's one of the things I love about this hobby that we've chosen. Thanks for tuning in.
