Such a pleasant dinner to have, watching this breakdown, just at the right time. Greetings from italy, I hope at some point my mx5 will have a turbo on it. 🤞
Yo, if the crank is bent, i said in an earlier video about the 2.1L forged crank stroker kitt you can get for these engines. it would be nice to see one of those boosted with the testing you do. Great videos as always, I have followed this car since the MS install and the china turbo days :D
@@nickespo89 Maruha makes those stroker kits, just google maruha stroker kit and it will lead you to a new world of parts you didnt even knew you wanted :)
Good job and great video! I would assume the reason for your main caps cracked, was due to crankshafts flexing. I am making well over 500 hp and still running the stock caps, which got me thinking why mine haven't cracked yet? I have installed a stroker kit that uses a moldex crankshaft that is way more sturdy then the oem one's. Just a thought! so let me know if yours is out of shape. But I must say that you have got me thinking 🤔 By the way, sorry that I still haven't replied your mail. Will get back to you Best Regards Bassam Rammaha Denmark
Man your videos are so worth the wait. Literally one of the only channels that can keep me entertained all the way until the end, not to mention I'm still learning stuff too! Keep it up Craig and good luck on the rebuild!
awesome infos here. will help me push the boundaries of my engine (though it's not a miata engine) my project is on a Peugeot 205, with the 1.7 NA diesel engine. I want to turbo it and push it from 60hp/120Nm to 200hp/400Nm, which is a lot for that engine.
@@jefftoonstra5087 I will, but it'll be in french. I'm french and although I am quite good at English, I don't plan to become a RU-vidr so reaching only a small audience doesn't matter to me, plus people building diesel Peugeot engines are mainly french speakers, so they way I can hopefully get people together
7:25 i recommend you strength the oil feeder system, either make a bracket/ change fitting direction... I concern it due your solid mounts and engine vib, it can crack and goes dry
@@alexstromberg7696 i mean the oil adapter... mine had snap (same kind contraption) due vibration (on diesel) luckily, i saw the press go 0, so i could pull over and no $ happend, just make big mess on the road....
I appreciate you sticking with the BP and showing what is possible. Obviously it's far from the best engine out there for making the most power, but swapping in a completely different powerplant usually involves a ton more fabrication work and money, which are things most Miata lads like myself don't have. You've built this car in your driveway and that is one hell of an achievement considering the sort of performance it managed to dish out.
I can’t put my finger on it but something about the production quality seems even higher than usual this episode, maybe it’s the haircut… but seriously, great work as always!
An engine that gets little acknowledgment in aftermarket are the Suzuki M13A, 15 etc. They are far better than all the 4 cylinders around this time, yet they have little aftermarket support. I guess its because the cars they came out in. These engines have 4 bolt billet caps from factory.
Instead of sending it to a machine shop. You could always get a honing stone and do it diy. I was weird about it the first time I did it but after that. That's what I do every time
Maybe a slightly more aggressive cam with a slightly milder tune/boost might reduce your mid range torque values while retaining your top end power. Might make the car feel less power but it could ease the stress on your powertrain and drivetrain, plus it may also reduce wheel spin when launching the car.
Unsure if you'll see this message on an older video but I would be very interested in seeing how your interactions with a machine shop would go. I do intend to build my stock miata motor to something fun and would love to shoot for 450+ whp but I have 0 experience working with machine shops (aside from work) and would love to see how I can be absolutely prepared to bring my block/head in for work without making the shop's job harder. Love the videos Greg!
Don't have time to give you the full breakdown but it's pretty much the same as a stock rebuild if you're talking about the block itself. Let them know it's for higher power with boost, if you're doing upgraded main studs bring them the block with those studs. At the bottom of this page I list out all of my clearances for my previous engine: thecarpassionchannel.com/VVT-MEGA-PAGE
Are you planning to put a girdle on the mains? We use this to keep our stock block 460's together a over 7500rpm in pull trucks. I know you can cad one up in fusion and have someone make it.
Just a thought on the rod bearings- Since the oil path for the rod bearings goes through the crank, as the crank pushed away from the top bearing (where the oil feed is,) the crank and rod bearings would both lose oil pressure. This could be the cause of your excessive rod bearing wear. Do you happen to have a log of the oil pressure before and after the failure?
Hi Greg, just to get you rid of anxiety regarding the front cap intake cam screw, it seems they are t27 and not t25.. try with it and you feel more peacefull 👌🤗
holy shit not only did you manage to get all 3 of those stupid torx bolts off the intake cam gear without stripping them, but you reused them?! Clearly you are a madman! I've never been able to get one of those stupid bolts off without it instantly stripping, even using high quality hardened torx bits. Also, those replacement bolts are super cheap and you can get them from Mazda. Don't tempt fate.
It's at least the 6-7th time I've pulled them, and they legit get 5% more stripped every single time. I NEED to get new ones. In fact I'm gonna order them right now
@@TheCarPassionChannel yeah smart move lol. I need to get one of those screwdriver impact tools that you whack with a hammer, I hear those work pretty good on these kind of screws
Im sure you have covered this before, but what headgasket are you running? It looks like a SCE Vulcan Cut-Ring Head Gaskets CR330057, but i just wanted to confirm. Thanks Greg for being such a inspiration to all of us!
I TOTALLY AGREE with you about engine swaps!!! I think it bastardizes the car! I hate too when people get Miatas and change the front of the car so much you can't tell what the heck it is. Best Always,
I use Valvoline VR1, my mains are 0.0018-0.0020", and my rods are 0.0020-0.0022" 🙂 I also have a full spec sheet for the rebuild of this engine here: www.thecarpassionchannel.com/vvt-mega-page-v2
this channel keeps me from selling my miata every time, ive got a mustang though so it just sits til i can afford to build the miata.. that and everyone trys to kill you in a miata and i dont want to wreck a pristine example lol
@13:28 It was the stock engine that is about it and sometimes an engine swap is a more sensible option compared to spending tons of money on upgrading the stock engine. 🤔
Also 1 last thing since you have the engine out, have you looking into ceramic coatings inside the engine? I dont know much about it but apperantly it helps with power, wear, and noise.
I sent my head to the shop and it required some fixes on the camshaft journal surfaces, resurface, installing some oversized valves, new bronze manganese valve guides and porting... That was about a year ago, I still have not received the head back... 🙁
I know everyone knowledgeable in the field says BPs don't like to rev and don't bother trying -- which I believe to be totally correct, but yet high rpm is fun even if there ain't a whole lot of power (if any) to be had up there... my question is: Would billet main caps be a good idea for a build targeting reliability for a mostly street-driven Naturally Aspirated BP4W aiming for 8000-8500 rpm fuel cut? For that matter, is Maruha's stock stroke crankshaft a good idea? Power aside. I'm one of the weirdos OK with smol power for street car miatas seems like. The stock BP crank has a reputation for being about as stiff as a wet noodle at that RPM, so just asking some stupid questions about how to get around that.
Which cylinder head studs are you running there? Are those already the Chrysler one, as they look pretty beefy? Last time on dyno I had 450Nm at 4000rpm and fuelsystem was pressurized, so I belief my current ARP head studs didnt hold the head in place. Now I think about to swap them to Chrysler studs (220k psi vs. 190k psi).
I was supposed to be working for this entire video... Needless to say I didn't make any progress on tasks for my day job. I'm left with one question though, Where'd you get the fresh cut from? My barber is moving on and won't be doing any more cuts, and while it's financially irresponsible to fly down there for a cut; I'd like to keep my options open. 🤣🤣🤣
How many degrees per lb of boost did you pull? Just curious on your definition of a ton of timing. I'm in the Civic world, and I pull .4 degree per lb of boost on my B18C1. I was curious about the Miata world.
I was thinking of building my motor, and wanted to go +1mm for pistons, I have no clue what compression ratio to go with though, what compression ratio did you go with?
Super sick brotha and can we get a discount code on the billet mains my brotha lol ... na but looks sick and should deff hold up .. now I got to get some lol 😆 peace n love dad stay rad and build on hope to see plenty more content in the positive range lol
What about tearing down the whole car and painting the unibody replacing every bolt with new bolts and paint everything else to make the car look new. It will be a big project but I believe it will be worth it. That's what I'll do when I buy my miata.
If you get a good shell you can do that job in stages, I did the whole front suspension and underbody in 6 weeks, including cleaning it all and repainting, then I collected the parts for the back and am trying to do that now when the weather sucks. The problem with whole tear downs is they cost you a fortune and many of them never get put back together.
Good info to have, I'm making a decision to either rotary or 1.8 swap at this point and this is helping me into the 1.8 land for sure, is there a cost breakdown anywhere of the 1.8 kit so far?
