Time to finish this door so I can put it away and carry on. I’ve chosen walnut varnish from Ronseal for this and I’m really happy with the result. It’s shown me the way forward for the colour scheme on the boat #ronseal #varnish #wow
It’s looking so good! You have put so much thought into everything you’ve done. Please pat yourself on the back! Can’t wait until your next video. Thank you for sharing
Just recalled from memory James ... if you ever need any wood working tips ... watch JSK koubou .... It was when you mentioned pillar drill .... this guy has lots of wood working videos ... even making precise pillar drills , from ply !! Erm them saws like b and q use panel saws ... the upright design ... And lots mote ... so if youre ever stuck for methods etc .. take a look at this chap... not that it should differ ... yet hes an middle age oriental chap ... and good at what he does !!
Suggestion for handles: There is a type of handle that would mount on the doors edge similar to the way you installed the rollers on the bottoms. Its a hidden handle. Action: you push in on the top of the handle that is now flush with the door, and the bottom pops out and you pull on it to close the door. Called pocket door handles. Also it will keep the proper width to the door. Location in the old days: You would normally find these types of handles on pocket French doors between the rooms in old houses. One on each door on either side and pull the doors together. They are also made with locks or latches in the same units.
I'd build the pocket doors with atleast a 5mm gap between the walls and the door. That way, you won't have the doors getting scratched up. Then, just make or buy some door runner alignment jigs that sit at the bottom of the door and allow for it to run straight without scratching the door.
You NAILED it with that Walnut stain! LOOKS GREAT! I think the Light and dark makes the door look FANTASTIC. Unless you're putting windows in the other doors, the light and dark look is the Bees Knees.
James the door really does look great, the colour of the walnut is perfect. I know it’s a small detail but is there no way of doing the edges to the returns of these in walnut as it returns into the panel, it would really finish it and make it look like that panel trim is walnut all the way through, I understand it would be hard now as it could possible bleed in to the inner light panel, moving forward I would stain this trim prior to fixing ? What do you think 🤔
James ,nice design choice on door !! P.s. you have router ... just an idea for inset door handle on when door is open ... use a larger router bit and sink in around 5 to 5.5 mm Say use router bit of around 16 mm Then sink a little deeper ... say with 12mm bit ... Now the first depth you did ... circle cut a piece of ply , 5mm to 16 mm Cut in half .. And place into holes previously done ... voila ... recessed handle ...which you could colour match to stain/varnish used already ..
Very art deco colours on the door and the cupboards for the dinette,and maybe very chunky rope handle for the door so pulled out of the pocket space without damage
Gorgeous, James! The bi-color scheme looks terrific. (I think a flat finger pull on each side of the door would work better than a single handle on the door edge.)
James, I’ve been watching since near the very beginning of sloe patrol. Your different ideas and visions for both that boat and project 58 are very interesting and even innovative. That being said the way that you are carrying out some of these ideas that you have from a structural standpoint, make me feel very nervous. For one, the stair framing has no diagonal supports. The stairs need diagonal supports because when you step onto it, you’re not just stepping straight down, there’s also a horizontal force which must also be carried from the tread down to the floor of the boat continuously. Secondly, the galley framing is incredibly spindly for what it is intended to be used for. The galley framing timbers must have some kind of attachment aside from screws that go into the end of the timbers or at the very ends only. The galley cabinetry must have more substance to it or else it will eventually have problems, such as if you try to lean on it on a regular basis over time. I have suggested several times that you add some type of L-shaped metal brackets to tie in the pieces correctly to each other. These brackets are very standard in cabinet making the world over. Trying to make a load bearing structure with only minimal connections at the very ends and no diagonal supports or bracing within the structure and only relying on screws at the very end of the pieces are going to make for a very flimsy end result. The other major concern I have for the galley build, is that for some reason nothing is connected to the wall. Having it freestanding from the floor is not structurally sound. Is there a reason for this? The galley build is basically a tall wood legged table, not attached to the walls, and it will flex when you lean on it over the span of many years to the point where it will stop fitting the drawers properly/become loose. On Sloe Patrol you built out the galley properly, putting the framing in first and tying into the walls. I’m not sure what happened between that build and project 58 but I suggest that before you close a bunch of spaces in that you add the proper structural reinforcement needed for horizontal forces & long-term stability. I’m going to be honest with you - I have found this whole project of yours fascinating and I’ve been rooting from you from very early on. However, the stuff I have seen with Project 58 makes it very difficult to continue even watching new videos. I have found myself asking out loud why you are doing a certain thing because it’s not the way it’s supposed to be done. I mean no disrespect by this whatsoever, it is clearly from a standpoint of concern. I would suggest reaching out to several carpenters and ask their opinions on these things. I don’t think I can watch any more videos going forward until some of these issues seriously. I have to ask myself: Why would someone fit out a boat with things that aren’t built correctly? it doesn’t make sense to me. I know that you have the ability to do it correctly because I’ve seen it being done on Sloe Patrol. In any case, I am still rooting for you, but I’m going to have to skip the videos for a while till the cart gets put back on the track. Hope you and the kids and Carol are doing well.
On the floor, just use a bit of trim stained in wall-nut to be the runner for the door (and on all doors), this way you denote each room and it'll be easier to put your flooring down
De doors look beautiful James! Do you already have a solution for the doors staying in place when they are open? Knowing that a narrowboat does swing a bit from left to right I can imagine that they might close by themselves 😅
James, search for long throw magnetic catches. They push to close and push to open. You could fit a couple of these and you wouldn't need a knob on the door then and they'd be hidden in the cavity
You have been powering through this the past week. I absolutely love the walnut trim. It really shows off the grain. I don’t know what Perspex is 🤷 so I can’t comment. But….i love the walnut. Hope you had a great Easter 🐣 You ate lamb then went and looked at 🐑 lambs???? 😱🤣😂😅 Great work James!! 🤗😊 Kathy
P.s. James .... mentioned Jsk Koubou ...for one particular reason . You wnat ideas on how to maximise ,versatility of your router ...check his videos on router uses !! Lets just say ... he turns it into a swiss army knife of a tool !!
Are you fitting central heating ? Because with the doors closed and only the diesel stove areas of the boat will be freezing in winter with the doors closed
It looks great so far. I love the 2-tone woods. Forget perspex (How do you spell this?!) As your children grow, they won't like windows in doors anyway, so that their rooms private. Won't the plexiglass (perspecs? am from the US and have not heard of this term so assume it is a plexiglass product..) make it really heavy anyway? Plan a handle for those doors that won't pinch little girl fingers.
Hi James. Good to see your progress on 58. With those dark walnut and lighter wood sheets and curved units there's definitely a hint of "art deco" style I think. I build model boats including canal boats at 1:12 scale. Currently building a butty. And after three months it now looks like one rather than a building site! With the art deco implied theme that may influence your lighting choices. I know lighting is silly expensive as you have pointed out. Finally, may I ask, did you stick with the new job? I get the impression maybe not as you said you've now got more time and you've gone back to "daily" videos. Thanks for the insights anc entertainment.👍
Here's a trick for disguising the cut lines: fill them with wood glue and while the glue is wet, sand the area so sawdust gets embedded in the glue, then leave to dry. For handles, I'd go with either ones that hide in the edge of the door, or - since you're going to have trim around the door anyway - something like Ikea Billsbro.
