you mean: the lock rawing picker ... or was it pick lawying rocker? no, pick rocking locker ... no, wait, the paw poking licker ...eehhhm. the rock mowing packer ...... I pass .... what about: the lock with the elk - is picked by the rake like a snake, the padlock with the hammock - by the pick on a stick the portal with the brass core - opens with an 8 bore
If you were interested and looking to learn there is a very helpful subreddit/discord available, /r/lockpicking, you can find the discord link there too
Because this generous fan lost the keys... LPL had to first pick it open, disassemble it, get a machined key that fits the keyway, pop out the pins of the core, put in the new key and put in new pins for the core.
so the next security feature would be to not have the model name on the body of the lock. that way people cant search lockpicking videos on youtube by name. also, a rare lock fares better. in the world of sentralization, small lock manufacturers struggle. sponsor your local lock manufacturer/designer/enthusiast! ;)
My vote goes for bottom of the threads Attack. I've stripped out threads on many things, with a lot less force than the Ramset. The blast should transfer pressure to the screw, and 2.5 mm will be enough room to strip them all, I'm guessing. It will be interesting to watch whatever area you pick. If you consider the amount of force being applied, I doubt if the Rock will survive even one shot. I hope I'm wrong. It would be nice to see a lock survive the Ramset, not that I really trust any lock anymore. 😂
Dear fbi agents. I am on this video because my phone was hacked and I have nothing to do with the bank robbery. I don't know who this lawyer person is.
Spending more time getting that screw out then you did picking the lock...The screw might be a false screw in a false hole.... Just gotta bash it with a hammer 🔨🔨😂😂
The fourth possibility you may want to consider is to hit the screw right above where it meets the bottom plate. If the strike breaks the screw, then the bottom plate would be indeed free to rotate out and release the core. Overall however, I'm quite skeptical the Ramset can open this lock in a single strike.
Yes, sharpening the end of the projectile may be the key to being able to split the screw. From the video, it appears the thickness at that point could be as much as 10-11mm, a bit too much for a blunt end, but possibly doable with a chisel.
Nope. You'd just push the pin until it clicks, and there's nothing unusual about a pin setting that high. It's only unusual that all of them are that high. If anything, it would make it very easy to pick because you'd have a lot of room to work with the picks and would be unlikely to overset any pins.
I have 83/80 & have modified a special ABUS for Medeco cylinder bottom plate to open it up circular to fit a electronic Medeco XT cylinder (schlage KiK Medeco XT Cylinder). The point being that I was surprised how soft the metal of that bottom plate actually was. So I would think your last considered attack breaking the screw attachment would work just fine.
I enjoy the game of chess, makes VS breakers each bent on out clevering the other, the enginuity displayed is a lot of fun keeps me watching.
4 года назад
I have an Abus Granit I got in the early 1990s at a locksmith shop near Ft. Bragg, NC for my motorcycle. BIG NEED for good security around there at that time - Ft. Bragg was an "open post." Anyway.... "MASSIVE BEAST" is correct.
This is actually very interesting to watch, seeing as I have already seen the video where he attacks it with a Ramset. If anyone has seen that video than you know just how tough this lock really was... this thing is a beast when it comes to strength against brute force.
My thought is to go around the corner from the 3rd option, up on the side just above the threaded bottom plate. The sheer strength of the bolt is what you want to compromise. By hitting it that low, instead of high like in option 2, the plate may well have the clearance to fall away. So that's my thought. Option 4.
I believe that you are correct, that the top would be one of the best. I agree that the bottom with the screw would be more then difficult. I am wondering if you hit it right in the middle of the lock. So where the two pieces come together for the tumblers are meeting. So that it would push the two apart. Now being a larger and more robust body, it might just make a lot of noise, and just a mark. Being the top is so much thinner it might push the two points out of each end. Just trying to learn about picking, just ordered my first set, and trying to find some locks to play with. Asked around, and people say, yeah they have them. No one can find them.. Oh-well I am going to keep looking. Thank you for great videos, and showing us how insecure a lock can be..
I would Go for hitting the thread at the bottom of the screw but first drilling it into the lower thread side of the screw to create more clearance before hitting the bottom but honestly they are generally very easy to pick with the factory pins, if you're up for a real challenge I'm working on modefyng a N302 light duty 7 lever Safe lock if you are up for the challenge, anyway I love watching your videos you are a real legend please keep up the good work and keep the videos coming thanks
Two shots are needed. First one up into the key way for a slide hammer attachment. And second at the screw threads, without the pinch. Then go to town with the slide hammer. If you use the punch on harden steel, it will just shatter. And the kinetic energy will end up in your eye.
Apply the Ramset to the side just above the point where the sidewall begins to thicken, ( in the drawing it would be where the first line above the bottom is) to force the sidewall into the threads of the bolt and the bottom plate. This might shear the bolt and force the bottom plate out.
Id say hit the bottom plate at least once on the lip side of the plate and or on the screw side smashing the head of the hole the screw mates to. Then attack in the valley also. Im kinda typing this as you are discussing the strategy. So if this is what you are thinking as well its because im doing this off the cuff as im watching the vid. You could also try a direct shackle attack perhaps at the top dead center of the bow of the shackle but fron under either with or without the punch and wrapped in a towel. And wearing eye pro.
the little hole at the bottom....with thread tap and a grease press (400bar), maybe some sealant, makes that 15mm shaft push up about 700kg as a piston, then maybe hitting at the top to make top of it to shatter
LPL you said "...pins that I added, not what came from the factory at Abus"...but its a _Stanley_ lock you put in!! So methinks a slight Freudian Slip (perhaps a perspectively permissible padlockian parapraxis) there lol. I put a MT5+ in my Abus 83CS/80 as I _nearly_ picked the Pfaffenhain it came with, achieved a false set a few times and set all but 2 pins (SPP) and I'm a ranked amateur well below a noobie...so I was glad to put in the MT5+ as I and everybody else has practically no chance of picking it...you on the other hand....haha...go on...haha...get outta here...🔒💥💨😲💨😎💨🔑😁
The blow from the top of the lock may be reinforced by the ball bearings in the shackle. To drive the core out the bottom would also involve driving the actuator past the ball bearings. And the steel in the actuator and ball bearings is extremely durable. My vote would be for the bottom of the screw to be punched in the hope you strip the threads. Honestly though, this is a serious padlock and I think it may survive the Ramset.
How about hitting the side/front of the lock where the threads enter the bottom plate? The shear force should be transmitted through the steel, and if you snap the screw off down low, the plate will rotate out. Similarly you may try hitting the bottom plate at a 45 near the screw. You may be able to shear the screw off without worrying about the threads at all.
Before I watch the video where you do that actual attack, I was thinking that if you attack the top, you may weaken the area around Top Dead Centre and be able to fracture those areas to the point that the actuator may be extracted upwards and/or you may be able to fracture off pieces of the actuator until there is enough room for a ball bearing to fall out the top. Now, I'm going to watch the ramjet in action on the Rock.
To help get the bottom plate out if you manage to partially free up the screw end I'm wondering if you could hit the body from the bottom on the other end next to the keyway were the little tab is and chip out a chunk big enough to let that end slip free. Breaking the plate where it goes around the keyway may also be viable and would accomplish the same goal. Also, it may not be the best way, but I'd still like to see you take a shot at the shackle and in the center of the bottom plate, just to see if either breaks.
I think attacking the screw from the bottom stands a better chance of at least weakening the threads enough to pry the retainer plate off, only if the Ramset can potentially de-thread the screw by at least one thread. So in theory the screw's threads will fail thereafter to maintain its hold. I don't think punching from the top, will force the retainer plate out. Oh the suspense is killing me!
Best bet is both. Strip out the threads and weaken the bottom plate, but you won't have room to get the bolt out of the way. Then, the top strike shoots everything out the bottom. The bottom plate doesn't look super strong to begin with, so try the top strike first.
I think the only option in real world situation would be to go for the threads. Going from the top would be interesting to see, but the problem as I see it would be lining up the punch with the shackle in the way as well as the chain or anything it’s attached to...
You wouldnt need a punch, the ramrod in a ramset gun extends beyond the end of the nail chamber and would probably result in a much substantial blow, probably enough to shatter the hardened shackle, maybe super cool it with some co2 first.
Note that this lock comes with way better cylinders in Europe. I am actually surprised that this has a cheesy Stanley cylinder in a high priced/high quality lock like that. I'd definitely change cylinders for an ASSA ABLOY or ABUS Pfaffenheim cylinders.
What about attacking the lip on the bottom plate directly ? Or hit the bottom plate from the side of the lock, near the screw, and maybe sheer of the bottom of the screw. As the bottom plate might bend near the lock opening.
Instead of knocking the head of the screw off, hit it closer to the plate. What's left would be shorter, and could be able to rotate the bottom plate out.
If it comes zero bitted from the factory, does that mean it comes with a zero key and a selection of keypins? What I don’t understand is why you wouldn’t just have it come with a regular key and pinned up for it, plus keypins. Then you can easily rekey it to your house key *or* not. I like the “easy end-user rekeying” feature, I jut don’t think it should be quite this singleminded about it.
It would appear that with the core type that is in there you might be able to swap in a Primus core into that lock. That would make it significantly more difficult to pick open.
What about a stronger charge in the Ramset and some kind of attachment to break the bottom plate in half right in the center. I know .. it's 1 cm thick at its thickest point.. Or maybe it going to break in 2 parts when you try to break the threads with the punch, and if it's in two parts, you can slide it off and remove the core.
I'd strike the latching lip, but I doubt that will deform the retaining plate enough to open the lock, so you'd have to hit the lock body down to finish the exploit - a very noisy intrusion with two ramset attacks
The only valid scenario is to break the lock in the field. That invalidates shop scenarios where you might grapple the lock with a bench vise or hammer on an anvil or something like that. So, you'd need to hold the lock by hand when using the Ramset ?
I think it's because with the spools its moved farther than the space needed for the larger edge of the spool so he needs to move it back just slightly to get the lip of the spool out of the way. Never picked a lock or anything that's just my theory
Jeebus, this guy is good. Is their any vids. of him failing to pick a lock? I have watched easily 200 of his vids. and other than that Medeco I have yet to see him take more than a minute or so to pick the featured lock.
Yes, you pin them through the window and that little brass rectangle is a top chamber cover for the #6 pin so if you need to pin it 6 pin you can take it in or out without any special tools
I was joking around. I don't think anyone would want to pay to see "The Rumble in LPL's Garage", I just meant it'll be a nail-biter... who knows which will win?
Way too many commercials in this one, uncharacteristic of you. Really enjoy your videos so its a fair trade off. As for padlocks, what are the higher end ones that would be difficult or impossible to pick? Are there any? Thanks
Strike it from the side just above the bottom plate and try to shear off the screw. If in doubt use a second charge, You dont have to get it on the first try. I mean a black smith doesnt make a knife with a single blow.
If you could hold the body still, could you hit the inside arch of the shackle, pushing the shackle out of the body? I’m thinking that if the ball bearing doesn’t push into the actuator, the leg of the shackle may blow the side of the lock out to get past the ball bearing.
When I buy a padlock I'm only concerned about destructive attacks so the strength of the body and shackle is what has more importance for me knowing that against an angle or die grinder nothing is enough.
![[565] Abus "Rock" 83/80 Picked and Ramset Attack Planned](/img/logo.svg){kind=logo}
