I’m In the oil industry. The thinner oils are for fuel economy only. All of these energy saving oils will not meet European specs for sheer. I run Castrol Edge Euro 0w-40 in my 5.0. Gives solid cold flow and the 40 is on the lighter end of the spectrum and gives you plenty of protection at higher temps. The 5w-20 is a 20 at 212 degrees. If you are working a vehicle hard and the temps are over 212 you no longer have a 20w. I’d always recommend going up a weight. Won’t hurt the engine at all. The lighter oils on the cape and manuals are “recommended “ not “required” for vehicle operation.
On my car, it says 0-20 on the oil cap. When i use that, the car burns oil. In the manual there are 3 options, 0-20, 0-30 and 5-30. Now i use 5-30 dexos1 gen2. No oil consumption, no problem.
I think you summed it up well. Regular cars can run 0w-20 all day long because it's never at sustained high load and cylinder temps. High performance forced induction cars, trucks and tractors tend to need the thicker oil to maintain the film and oil pressure. What tends to kill regular cars is simply neglect, not the oil itself.
Driving 100mph and more, over many hours on german autobahns on w20 during hot summer days? Not the best idea. It might work in the US but not in Europe, where people generaly drive faster on highways
I dun know why consumers cant tell that these manufacturers are out to scam you to help their gas mileage numbers. 0w20 ? really? why dont they just advise pouring water or methylated spirit as a lubricant.
Excellent illustration of how B.S. CAFE standards altered oil recommendations on these cars, even when the engine design never changed. Ever since i watched a FordTechMakuloco video where he mentioned he uses only synthetic 5W30 in all the 5.4 3V motors he works on i have never gone back to 5w20. I dont baby either of my cars so it gives me peace of mind to know my oil can handle the abuse.
When I had my 5.4 I always used 5w30 conventional or blend and I would top off constantly because it was burning oil somewhere and I would often top off with 10w30 conventional.
I been running Mobil 1 5w30 for years in my 2003 cobra. I had a mechanic that builds mod motors tell me 20w wasn't thick enough. Makes sense with all the heat.
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My Kia Rio manual says to use either 5W-20 or 5W-30. However, if it never goes below freezing (it doesn't here in Arizona), it's ok to use 10W-30.
Ow oils slip off metal. The parts are dry if we park a while. Check dip stick. 5w30 stopped soot in tail pipe! Gas cleaner 2 tanks. Better running and quieter also.
I run 5w-30 in my 2012 Raptor. 6.2L v8 that sees lots of hard desert off road miles. After 180k miles it runs like a dream and uses no oil between oil changes. Like you said, for normal daily driving 5w-20 would be ok. For hard driving 5W-30 is the better choice. 🙌🏼 im a master mechanic with 25 years of experience BTW
Seeking advice. Should I run my 22 VW GTI with 0W20 or go to 0W30 or even 40 instead? I live in Canada and I like to run my car hard when the conditions permit it (since it's still cold, icy, and snowy where I live). My concern is the recommended 0W/5W20 is too thin for a hot running EA888 2.0T engine. It also warms up real fast in cold climates compared to my 2013 Hyundai Veloster with 1.6 NA or 2003 Ford Focus 2.0 NA engine. It probably has to do with the electronic thermostat unlike the old school style of wax that needs to heat up on Veloster and Focus.
@@W0LV1E45 Since you live in a very cold place, but do push the engine hard Id use 0w-30. The 0w will provide easier starts and good protection and the 30 will work just fine under high load conditions. Thats my honest opinion.
@@jibrilthegreat35 my car manufacturer recommend 0w20 but I live in very hot climate 40 - 45C do I have to change viscosity I run my car between hard and normal it’s a Chevy spark 1.4L NA what’s your suggestion?
@@nawaffidah5018 in very warm weather Id not hesitate to use 5w-30. You will get slight less MPG but your engine will benefit from increased viscosity, which will protect your car in hot weather. 0w oil is ideal for places where the temperature drops very low, and lower viscosity is needed to allow for good oil flow at start up.
I have a 2014 Chrysler 300 with a 5.7 engine has about 80k and it sounds like a sewing machine under load. I was told to use 5w-20 but was wondering if using something different might help reduce the buzzing (sounds dry)
I did a ton of research on this, I run 10w30 with mmo in my 2.4l jeep. Calls for 5w20. Great video love oil talk, everyone's got their own flavor and weight... catch can anyone?
MMO will drastically thin out the motor oil while diluting it's carefully blended detergent & anti-wear additives. I'd just use an affordable 10W-30 synthetic like Super Tech in that without additional additives. If you have a cold season that gets freezing, I'd use the 5W-30 for those months. If you want to clean your engine with MMO, I'd wait till nearly the end of the motor oil's life (near a change) and switch out the oil filter only to a cheap one. Get the cheapest one that fits it and fill the oil filter up with the MMO and put it on. Don't drain the old motor oil yet. Use that with the MMO. Then check the dipstick if it could use more and add more if needed. Then run the vehicle around 150 miles and change the oil with a higher quality filter with no MMO.
I have a 2016 Yukon XL and i dumped the 0/20 and changed it up to 0/40. I also changed the cap to that that says 0/40 ...with the original 0/20 cap I drilled a hole as big ss the inner diameter of the cap...right thru to be used as my leak proof oil funnel holder during oil changes. I also run 5/40 in my 2008 Nissan Pathfinder V8. CAFE wanted 5/20 in those. I also changed the cap with one that dont have any viscosity printing on them. (Intl spec nissan oil cap) I have never followed CAFE specs. Ive always followed EU oil reccomendations.the only CAFE i follow is the brewed kind. 😉
09 Toyota Prado , book says 5w 30, but now using full synthetic 5w 40, much smoother than 30, and I live in a hot tropical climate in Asia where temps don't dip below 30C/88F, so a bit thicker oil makes more sense.
Thanks. This was the comment I was looking for. My Corolla says to use 0W-20 and I was looking for justification for my thoughts on using 0W-30. Now I got it :) p.s. Also leave in hot country where the annual temperatures are -10 to + 45 C
@@lonniebeal6032 That's the point. In west Africa the daytime temperatures can easily exceed 100°F on any given day. Using anything less than a 40 weight means the car ends up on the scrapheap far sooner than it should.
I have a 2010 Honda Element that calls for 5w20 on the cap but i have only used that twice. Didn't notice any difference in fuel mileage with the 5w30. I looked at what same engine called for in Japan and it listed several weights to use depending on the temp. I normally use Pennzoil Platinum but recently started using Pennzoil Euro changing around 5000 miles. It has 148K on it still running like new with no oil use. The car companies don't want your engine to last for a long time they just want it to get past the warranty then it's all on you
Climate is also something to take into consideration. I ive close to Houston and our summers are brutal hot. I run 5w 30 because of the better protection in the heat. I may get slightly worse fuel mileage,but I feel in the heat the added weight is better in hot conditions than the thinner 20 weight. I might not get as good of a flow rate,but as hot as it gets here in the summer..I believe it's the better choice in the summer months
@@m.hadisoussi732 yeah that’s probably not the time to run the thicker oil if at all. Look up your engine in other markets and see what is specs there. For instance my car is 0w20 USA Canada. In the book it says for everywhere else including Mexico use 5w30 and while I am still hesitant to use 5w30 if I do it will be in the middle of the summer not in the dead of winter.
I agree with your also agree with RIGHTEOUS comment climate is something to consider, I live in Houston/Tx and here the summer is HOT so I do use 5w-30 (not 5w-20) if I was is a place that is really cool (below or at 0) I will go with thinner oil for sure, Also there are Engines that You need to follow the OEM Recommendation because the CHANNEL of the oil (the Lifters in this case and ) in some places of the engine is so small that a Thinner oil is needed for better lubrication an example is the DODGE Challenger with HEMI V8 engine. Thanks for your video.
I can only speak for myself. I've been mixed 10w30 with 5w30 and 5w20.. Just to see it would damage my motor. My ford f150 has 252000 miles and still run strong
An article by a Lube magazine said 30W is optimal viscosity for an engine. Also they said Ford trucks in in North America use 20W, but in Europe, Ford trucks use 30W to comply with factory warranties.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage In some forum. Someone noted that Ford engineers tested 20W oils and found there was 30% increase in engine wear. I guess the white shirts said who cares we don't wanna pay for the CAFE fine, besides they can buy another Ford because they are diehard fans....
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage also some guy on RU-vid did used oil analysis of 5w30 vs 0w30 on his vehicle. Couldn't remember what vehicle. The 0w30 had more wear metals than the 5w30 oil. That was an eye opener. My guess is 0w is too thin to start running an engine under load from a cold engine. 5w is slightly thicker to give it some better protection when running a cold engine under load(like driving off after starting) I know everyone says 0w oil flows faster, but oils have anti wear additives in them already. So when you start the engine, the additives are preventing wear, then you need some cushioning for piston slap hence alittle thicker.
I agree. 5W-20 was fine for my 2002 Ranger V6 that never used much oil, but not for a supercharged V8. My 95 Toyota truck calls for 10W-30. I use 5W-30.
I've run 5w30 for the entire life of my 06 mustang gt, but i can't help but think we should all still be running 10w30 unless you live in the Northern most points of the globe.
Thanks for the video. I bought a new Hyundai Elantra in 2018. I change the oil every 4k. I use a Mobil 1 filter and synthetic oil. Yah, I'm throwing my money away, I should go another 2k. Anyway. The oil cap says 5w20. The manual has 5w20 and 5w30 listed in the same temp range, and 10w30 when it's warmer...i have 56k on the car and have always used 5w20. Last oil change I changed over to 5w30. This will leave a little more film on the moving parts and add a little more protection when the engine is hot. Heat is what ultimately kills engines, unless it's a chrysler, then it's just junk. Sorry for adding that. I was so burned by them in the past I never got over it...
Look at your manual, that 5w20 is from our corrupt government wanting more mpg at the expense of your engine. And my past Dodges were great, but that was in the 80's and 90's. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
Those engines literally were made and tested with quaker state oil 5w20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer just make sure they API SP or API SN or the older but the same qualification API SL or API SJ I hope that help peace ✌
@clydeespinosa6286 I'm at 143k now. Most reliable car I've ever owned. I change the synthetic oil every 3-4k. 5w30. Add a little in between changes, good to go. I'd recommend changing the PCV valve at some point. It takes 1 minute, and I did it myself, which says a lot. Car accelerated much smoother after I changed it...although I only changed 2 weeks ago...
My everyday driver is a 98' lexus gs400, live in South Florida, I've always run 5w30 as factory recommended, car drives great with almost $230k miles on odometer.
I have heard that the first number in the oil viscosity rating is the viscosity number for the base oil. Additives allow the final product to function as a 30 weight oil (5W30) when the oil is hot. These additives break down over time with the result that the viscosity does not maintain the performance of the 30 weight oil when hot. So...if you wait too long to change your oil, you are really running straight 5 weight oil when hot. This thin oil will not protect against metal-on-metal contact in the engine when hot. I drive infrequently, but I still change my oil at least once a year. Usually get 3000-5000 miles on a change. So far, no oil related failures.
Manufactures are also telling people to go 10,000 miles between oil changes. I strongly advise not to and my newer Yukon has an oil lift timer. Even changing at 30% I still had a lifter failure. 5w30 means at 5 degrees temperature it will still act as 30 weight.
5w50 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2012 Shelby GT500. 5w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 1996 Toyota Avalon 0w20 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon 3.6 v6 As of 4/23, I’ve switched from 0w20 to 0w30 Amsoil Signature Series in my 2021 Jeep rubicon. Night and day difference on start up. Super quiet with the 0w30 and less blow by caught in the catch can. Like over 1/2 the amount less from 0w20. My 2018 Raptor gets 5w30 Amsoil signature series and I and hardly tell the engine is running it’s so quiet and smooth.
0w20 protects just as much as 5w30, but that lower HTHS thinner oil relies more heavily on its additives rather than viscosity index to offer the same protection at extremes. This means it is less forgiving if prolong high rpm, heavy towing , and prolonged oil changes on 0w20 when all additives have worn out and now more severely damaged engine vs same scenario if slightly thicker 5w30. I’ve done more major engine repairs for abused 0w20 Toyotas vs 5w30 with all things being equal on average throughout my 12yrs.
Nope, no viscosity chart agrees with your first sentence once you are over 68F which is where 0w20 protection starts to fail. Only full on racing oils will have increased anti-wear additives. You all know that 0 is what water flows at right? That 5w20 is listed in most owners manuals for fuel economy, here is a prime example, read the first note below the falsified viscosity chart. I will run 5w20 during winter months only, then 5w30 or 10w30. It rarely gets above 105F in my area. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 Nope, no HTHS in oil analysis agrees with you. you're also saying the engineers are dumb and 0w20 is immediately always useless when a car is started. you're also saying my 2014 Tundra with 212K miles with exclusively only 0W20 since day 1 doesn't exist. Nope, you are wrong.
Run 5w 20 in winter and 5w 30 in summer, got it, lastly, every manufacturer tests the oil based on numerous points of circulatory lubrication, pump, flow ports, filter type, ect. The viscosity, chosen is a choice based on all the factors, just sayin, consider all the above.
Follow the European standard not the US standard. Europe has far better testing standards to protect the consumer. The u.s. standards revolver around minimizing epa fines.
Great video, I have a 2012 GT with a 120,000 . Started its life from 32k with Royal Purple until 80k. Shop didnt carry anymore. So switched to Valvoline Max High Milage Synthetic. May burn a quart to a quart and a half between a 5k oil change. But remember this is still a 5w-20. Non modified motor, not one oil leak, spirited driving, daily driver. These gen 1 motors and Chevy LS motors are bullet proof. Its lost HP by mathematically engine years, however dosent feel like it. Wondering if I will even have to rebuild at 200k. Just FYI on high milage coyote motor .
Just my 2 cents. 150K Tahoe 2003 . I decided recently (last oil change) to try Restore. I must say, did help with compression! Not that I had lost much, a Tahoe LS . But it’s worth a shot. I never go over 4K an oil change either 👍
its not just about topping up the quart....the thinner oil by the fact that it burns off doesnt protect as well as a thick w40 or w50 oil which has more zinc.
The manufacturers don't care so much about longevity, as long at an engine lasts through the warrantee period (typically 36,000 these days) they are happy. On most vehicles, the oil weight called for in other countries, Australia for example, is heavier oil. That means that the engine will handle a 30 weight oil with no problem at all.
People keep saying the car manufacturer must know what they are doing. Yes, to serve their interests! Your interests are different! I change my own oil and I always buy my oil when it is on sale. In October, I change my oil using 5W-20. In May, I change my oil using 5W-30. This guarantees my motor will last a very long time. Since I change it twice a year, it doesn't really matter whether I use conventional or synthetic. Learn to change your own oil and do it twice a year. Do your own research and figure out what works best for your motor. No matter what, change your oil every 5000 miles! Oil gets dirty and full of acids and moisture and the additives wear out. Fresh oil always works best!
Oh, the manufacturer. The ones that remove the transmission fluid dipstick and tell us it's a lifetime fluid? Yeah, don't believe Ford, or Boeing for that matter.
Definitely answers my question, thank you! Question for anyone to answer... I have a 2009 Mazda CX-9 with 156K miles. I started losing power for pickup, and eventually was getting a metallic chugging sound when I turned corners. I took it three different auto shops and nobody could replicate the problem, or so they said. I kept asking if there were a problem with any of the fluids. All three said no each time. In the end, a fourth shop identified the problem... I only had one quart of oil left in the whole system! In my mind, oil is a fluid, but apparently I am wrong. But now I am worried about damage. It does seem I am burning oil, not leaking it. The good mechanic put 5 W 30, which is why I am here educating myself on the difference. Do any of you think I should go even higher?
No you shound't, if you need need thicker oil it means the some of the seal is not working properly, increasing oil velocity is just a temporary "fix". If you keep increasing the velocity you will end up with some where that thick oil can't "fix" the seal or the oil is too thick to run so it is breaking the engine.
I always ran 5w-30 in every new edge mustang I’ve ever owned. I figured it’s a car I’m going to run hard and I want an oil that’s going to hold up to heat.
As soon as I..I see the lucas spinning gears ok. But Have you actually put a half quart Lucas into the motor my temp stay around 3/8 of the meter using Castrol 5w30 /10w30 mix lol 😄
As far as I can tell every time my dad would use pennzoil or Castrol in his van. I noticed Castrol Gtx 5w-20 WAS very good and got 23 mpg like when he first bought the honda. Then I see a jug of pennzoil 5w-30 no 5w20 2004? He didn't even put all of it ? Wtf ..no wonder coming out if a right turn provly way from the oil pickup after the filter It sounded rough for 3 seconds. Worse is he got 5w-20 pennz on sale when 5 quart Gtx 5w-20 sm /sn and 0.5 quart Lucas was the shiz (23 town /30 highway) water was halfway I stead of below with therm stuck open
Haha, I just changed my oil in my 2003 Ford SD 250 5.4l and forgot which weight of oil because it's sratched off the cap. I Googled and it said 5w-30, so I started to put it in and decided to check my manual to see the amount and it said 5w-20! I came here and to my relief it sounds like it's a better oil, plus it's summer too so it doesn't sound like a problem. Thanks for the info y'all.
Def depends on bearing clearances and application for built engines… from what I know they go with more clearance,,,, and call for thicker oil. Valvoline VR1. To the the flow to cool bearings down
Good video with good info, i have a 2012 corvette LS3 engine, I’ve always used Royal Purple 5W 20 after warranty expired. Haven’t noticed any difference with the 30 to 20 with my style of driving. I probably baby it more than I let it rip but I do go on 300 to 400 miles trips. MPG is still average 16 city/ 26-27 hwy. I don’t think it’s much of a big noticeable difference in regular driving, at least i haven’t and don’t expect to. Good maintenance and care really helps in whatever oils you decide. Again that’s just what I think if one is just regular driving.
I only use full synthetics when I change my oil, 5w30 or 10w30 in my out of warranty 2016 Turbo. In warranty Sportage has free lifetime oil changes, they use 5w20 Mobile 1 blend, in the winter under 68F I leave it alone, come summer I take a jug of full synthetics 10w30 to them and hope they actually use it. Why does no one who discusses viscosity ever refer to a viscosity chart? And I don't mean the one supplied in the owners manual that they can control.
If you want better oil. Go with amsoil signature series. Guaranteed lubricity. I use mobile 1 full synthetic 0w30 ,but have been getting poor lube at cold startup and valve rattling til I made the switch to amsoil same viscosity but much better. My engine is running much smoother and guaranteed lube at cold startup with zero valve rattling. It's pricey ,but well worth its weight and a happier engine. 100% full synthetic versus 50% full synthetic.
It's always fun to hear and read what people say about oils. I would say that most people have at least some truth to what they say about the oils that they use. Me? I'm still just learning, so thank you to the other commenters.
I bought a new 14 Silverado witht the v-6 which takes 5w 30 while the v-8's take 5w 20. The v'8's have had tons of lifter failures while the v-6's not so much.
I know all to well of the failures unfortunately. I believe many come from their extended oil change interval as well, but mine lost a regular lifter from it just being cheap material. Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles ru-vid.com/group/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I wonder if GM has outsourced their lifters and got some bad batches as well as some good ones. I know it's a poor design and the return on better fuel mileage is a lie.
Going to run 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the warm months here in MI with a Ford EcoSport 2.0 AWD. 5W-20 allowed fuel dilution to ruin the oil in a very short time period, turning it into a black water and made the oil level too high with fuel. 30 weight oil stops it. It runs fine with it. 20 weight and under oils are garbage.
Lighter oils flow faster for tighter clearance engines. Also , lighter oils due to their nature removes heat faster. I use recommend 5W-20 in my new HEMI Engine per recommendation, but it has to be a full synthetic oil with zinc, and phosphorus. (Lifetime Powertrain Warranty). The only oil I found that meets my requirements is TRIAX 5W-20 it meets Chrysler 2021 specifications. If you want need a full 30 weight synthetic oil, especially for hot summers with full protection of camshafts, lifters, bearings, etc... use Triax 30WI, recommended for 5W-30 or 10W-30. I used synthetic oils exclusively in all my motorcycles, cars, trucks, boats, and airplanes since 1979. Everything from Mobil-1, Ames oil, Shell, Valvoline, Quaker State, Triax, Royal Purple, and the best tested by Blackstkne Labs is Red-Line. I use to be a Crew Chief on B-52’s, KC-135’s, and F-4’s, all jet engines use Synthetic Oil. Some of these are my age, born in 1956, and they are still flying, enough said...
If your Hemi is the Challenger, I looked one up online, Full Synthetic 0w40 is the only oil recommended for the Challenger. I am still trying to find evidence that 5w20 which is only rated to 68F does it's job at higher temps. I do suspect Redline Full SYnthetic 5w20 would work all season due to it's high anti-wear additive package. Got any lab analysis results for 5w20 or 0w20 that has been exposed to summer months of say 85F? Amsoil vs Pennzoil Ultra Plat. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TWuKvnCq1js.html
Don't know triax, butt AMSOIL meets or betters specs... i use & sell AMSOIL & i can tell the difference f/original oil... bought a used '12 Durango w/103k, dealer said he used m1, changing ALL fluidz w/AMSOIL this week... i even bought a fluid exchange machine so i could do transmissions... i believe in oil that much... actually i hate 2 say this, butt 1st week of June, it will b 3, yes 3 yearz since i installed AMSOIL in my '16 Lexus nx200t... came w/m1... only put on 20k since... still getting great mileage...
@@brucek.hoffman5868 so the 3.6 pentastart is actually an official API testing motor, and in said motor amsoil outperforms EVERYTHING in a controlled environment where every oil used goes through the exact same thing, and iirc amsoil used a thinner oil in the test than is required (I think they used 0w-20 while everyone else uses 5w-30)
Tolerances are .002 and have been for decades. No offense but you don’t know what you’re talking about. I worked in Quality Control doing inspections on parts and calibrating precision instruments. Tolerances haven’t changed and thinner oil vs thicket oils heat transfer rate all have same surface area- cooling effects.
the dealer has been using 5W-20W in my 2006 toyota corolla; it calls for 5W-30W. Why!!! I have 1OOK on a bullit proof engine and have changed the oil on time since it was new. From my receipts, it looks like its been the last 2 or 3 oil change. Have some valve train noise from about the time they changed the oil, according to my receipts, Thanks Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw Georgia for shortening the life on my engine. Asshats!
@@lonniebeal6032 these engines should run between 180 and 210 degrees regardless of climate once at temp because that's where the thermostat regulates (unless you're in the depths of Siberia/canada but then what the hell do you have a mustang for?)
Good video...1st is go with Mobil one extended...it costs 10 cent more a quart and its as strong in every way that Mobil one makes...20k miles....2nd ACEA ratings..its a European rating but its used in the US to indicate the best possible oil...Mobil one 5w20 has a A1 B1 rating..very good but not the best...Mobil one 5w30 has a ACEA rating of A1 B5...that's the top of the top for overall oil performance...your 4.6 supercharged mustang with a 5W20 oil cap probably isn't the best oil...I'm bet money your theory is correct..5w30 Mobil one 20k is a better oil....I have a 2006 Camry 2.4 liter 4 cylinder...since it was new I put 5w30 mobile one 20k ..it has 420k miles...which engine is tuffer on oil...your 4.6 twin cam super charger...my camry says 5w30 without exception..it still gets 35-38 mpg....I got a 2003 low miles Grand Marquis..its similar to your mustang engine..it has a 4.6 single over head cam...it says 5w20...I use 5w20 but in the extended 20k Mobil one..it gets 25 mpg in the highway...its a great engine...it seems great but yours has 2X the horsepower...my Camry engine only holds 4 quarts...my marquis holds 6 quarts.....just image how good the 5w30 mobile one 20k mile oil is with only 4 quarts for 420k miles and always 10k miles oil change intervals..if I had the mustang I would go 5w30 mobile one 20k or 10w30 Mobil one 20k.....or the same weight oil in Amsoil signature series...ACEA ratings are on the back of the bottle..very few oils have the maximum ACEA rating of A1 B5....heres some proof that the extended Mobil one is as good as they say..when I reach 8k to 12k miles on my oil it without exception gets a mile or two mpg better than it did when the oil just got changed...that's extraordinary
For God's sake warm the car up for 5 minutes. Your grandmother is not dying at the local hospital. When I see someone start a car up at 15 or 20 degrees and immediately drive off it makes my spine shudder.
do 5w-30, it’ll withstand the heat when you race or all the friction by the supercharger. Even ford knows 5w-30 will make the engine run better in the heat than 5w-20
I´v seen several videos on the 0w-20s and 0w16s and not one has asked if there is a loose of Power! If the oil thins out too much the cylinders will loose compression! It seems to me the auto manufactuers preasured by the enviormentalist have thrown the Viscosity Charts out the window saying "Viscosity Science No Longer Maters"! Time will tell if the 20 weight oils will hold up or if we see a generation of blown engins.
your definitely right in running 5w30 I have a 2010 track pack GT and it says in the owner's manual 5w20 for fuel mileage but to run 5w30 for hard driving racing or track use so that right there says 5w30 won't hurt it not to mention who has a Mustang that don't run it hard. i would not go any thicker but supercharged definitely hard on the oil i would only trust #1 amsoil or #2 mobil 1 By the way wicked wicked Terminator cobra
Was w/ U all tha way Broski, from when u snappd the bolt, till u extracted it!! So Fu*k evry Troll’n “Know-it-all” Kook’s negative comment u come across, bc they didnt knw how 2do it @sum point n their lives either. U learn by doing, sometimes mistakes r made, sometimes not, but nxt time U’ll b that much better @it..Glad u stuck n thru whole Vid, Proud of U🤙🏾
I get it totally it depends on Mod's too.. I would run a 0/30 instead of a 5/30 in the winter's. I would only do that in Dec, to March, Then just go right back to the 5/30 when it's starts to warm back up around here.. 5/20 on a Mustang doesn't even sound right.. I have to use 5/30 on my 4 cylinder turbo Juke, And then use 5/20 on my GT it silly..
My volvo xc70 2.4D needs normally 0w30 I use Kroon Helar 0w40. (Full synthetic) I live in Europa but drive few times a year to Siberië. My automatic transmission i use Kroon sp matic 4026 In my diff's and transfercase i use Kroon gearlube racing 75w140 ( full synthetic) because i drive continue with a 3000kg and a high trailer. In my haldex i use Kroon sp fluid 6033.
Well that is a classic Mustang so It's ok to run 5w-30 but newer engines are designed for 5w-20 or even 0w-20, the best idea IMO is to use the oil recommended by the manufacturer they spent millions of dollars on research, they must now what they are doing. I even go the other way I use 0w-20 in a car that calls for 5w-20 since cold start is a very stressful moment for the engine a 0w-20 being little lighter than a 5w-20 helps to flow faster and reduces the cold starting Stress, I've noticed a more silent cold start. Nevertheless I would recommend to follow your car manual and you'll be ok.
What a square 😂. "They spent millions of dollars, engineers blah blah blah blah, I'm indoctrinated like a Bible thumper by lies and C.A.F.E regulations." Run your water oil. Me? Not falling for it. Not after dealing with a Ford EcoSport's 2.0 duratec engine having its oil level WAY too high with the crap 5W-20 being badly diluted with fuel in a short time period. I drained out that blackened pi$$ water and put in 5W-30. Hasn't done it since. It doesn't darken near as quickly, and the oil level doesn't rise or fall. Next year, when it gets warm again here in MI, it's gonna get a better base oil of 10W-30. 5W-30 has more polymer viscosity improvers to help cold flow, and 5W-30 is rated for colder than many think. 10W-30 is good to 0 degrees F, so 6 warmer months will do fine, then 5W-30 for 6 cold months. I don't need more changes the that because I don't drive all over timbuktu and back.
I wanna run 5w30 in my 09 gt mustang i live in New Mexico where it’s hot I was wondering if the cam phasers need thinner oil like 5w 20 or if 5w 30 is fine
5W-30 made my Ford EcoSport 2.0 AWD get 2 more mpg. An INCREASE! The 5W-20 allowed fuel dilution so bad it turned into black gasoline oil as thin as water. Not so with 5W-30. So, for winter it's gonna get more 5W-30, then 10W-30 when warm months hit again here in MI.
Ima go with 5w-30 I live in AZ summer is right around the corner lol only weekends for the Stang now got a daily so I can let my Stang rest and finish FBOing it.
Use recommended 5w-20 Mobile 1 synthetic in my Crown Vic Police Interceptor. Has 205k been using that since 102k it absolutely purrs doesn't burn a drop change it every 7500. Should I go to 5w-30. Live in Coastal Calif never got never cold.
It depends on your driving habits. For simply a commuter it will be fine with 5w20. If you are hard on it 5w30 may be a good option, even now since the thicker oil will prevent leaks a little better. It’s entirely your decision
I've always felt a heavier oil does a better job of lubricating but with newer synthetic oils, improved engine machining, and improved engineering I've changed my mind about newer cars and heavier oils. I just purchased a new 2020 Malibu LS with a 1.5 liter, 4 cylinder, double overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder, variable valve timing, direction injection, turbo charged engine with an air to air intercooler. The turbo bearings are both water and oil cooled, it calls for 0W-20 engine oil. They run a 185 degree engine thermostat, cooler then normal. Normal oil pressure at idle and highway is between 29 to 31, hot. As soon as you give it a little throttle the oil pressure shoot up. Say 1/4 to 1/2 throttle the pressure shoots up to 70 psig. GM designed the oil pressure regulator to track the engine load there by providing the extra oil protection need at higher boost loads. A heavier oil in this engine would be a problem, say a 10W40 on a cold start would not allow the heavier oil to reach all the metal surfaces as would a thinner oil. the same goes for higher or normal operating temperatures. Seems GM is over coming the thinner oil problem for better mileage and cold starts by controlling oil pressure. GM doesn't require synthetic oil just as long as it meets Gen 1 Dexro. I use Mobil one synthetic with a Mobil one filter and change the oil every 3,000 miles which is once a year, I live in SW Florida 5 months out of the year, and yes I have a catch can.. lol
I just purchased a 2020 equinox...1.5 liter turbo.LYX engine...it says 0w20....i going to use 5w20 mobil 1 though because it has less volatility burn off and a higher flash point than the 0w20 Afe...also has a lil more zinc and phosphorus...(same amount as 5 w 30)....it also has the same pour point as the 0w20 which is -51 C..I think it will work great.
If I lived in Florida I would run the heavier oil because it's very hot there and " cold start" really doesn't exist. I run 5w30 in both of my Ford v8 engines. No coldstart issues , I am much more concerned with high temperature protection under a load, than starting it and idling it under no load.
@@michaelreardon7667 Mike, I live in Florida during the winter so I never see real hot temps. Remember, cold starts are equal to 500 highway miles, so the quicker the oil gets to moving parts the better. To high of oil pressure can blow out seal, I've seen it happen on engine's and turbos.
FYI,going from 0-20 to 10-40 is a big jump in visc not rec for motor req 0-20. BUT! If you went from 0-20 to 5-20,5-30 you would pick up substantial protection against thermal visc breakdown shear etc vs lighter 0-20 with the slightly higher oil visc that’s still acceptable in your app vs 20-40 you Ref to thst may be too heavy.
I've noticed better fuel savings on a thicker oil but might just be from having a really old and worn engine LOL it's not as sensitive as new engines would be I think lol
Bro I run 10w30, 15w40 and 20w50 in my Mach 1 . 169000 miles. Heart still pumping. most of the time its 20w50 conventional in the summer time and 10w30 in the winter Edit: after reading these comments , I may have the highest mileage Mach 1 around 😦 Edit 2: I now just run 10w30 high mileage with 1 qt of Lucas high mileage. We're at 173k now. Guess I don't drive that much every year. Motor still healthy
Nah my buddy had 300k when he dropped a 5.4 in his and sold the old motor. But this sounds like bearing suicide man, you better be making sure that shit gets oil pressure before you even think about letting it fire, cause 20w-50 conventional's gonna take a literal minute to get oil pressure at any remotely brisk temperature (unless you live in death valley lol)
@@DIYStangsandFreedom high mileage? Shit is 500k on a 96 gt enough for you? It may be on transmission number 3 but the motor's original outside cams and spring and the updated dorman intake. It's not really a risk. If you really like that 40 or 50 hot weight run 5w40 or 5w50. And don't give me the BS about not wanting to go synthetic because like 80% of conventional marketed oils are actually semi-synthetics so chances are you're already running partly synthetic oil anyways.
I tried to explain this to my local Mobil 1 oil change facility owner but he would not listen to me. He lost my business as a result. How do you keep your engine compartment so clean?
You'll know it's a good oil, when the worst motors are still going strong with the PUP, I too whatched the oil shootout video years ago, researched PUP, and guys in The subaru forums were sending thier oil out analysis after a change over to PUP , and had good results .
Thank you. I was under my 2008 P71 Crown Vic yesterday changing the oil. I put in 5/30, and then I had second thoughts when I saw the 5/20 on the cap. Should I dump the 5/30 and start all over again with 5/20? Will the 5/30 trash my engine?
The crown Vic is the exact same engine as the mustang GT other than oil pan, valve covers, etc. I run 5w30 in my GT and all my new edge mustangs and it’s perfectly fine, but that’s my opinion, so do as you would like.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I have a 2007 FORD 500 and the dealership has been putting in the oil since we got it used. It says 5w20 but they have been putting in 5w30. It has a lot of leaks. Could that have caused it?
I have a scion tc. 165k miles. I run Royal Purple 5w20 but my car eats through quite a bit of oil (not visibly burning a lot) should i go up to 5w30 to help?
See this is the only acceptable 10w-30 to run, but I'd still do 0w-30 all day, and if you still have cats you may as well gut them that high zinc oil's killed them by now anyways
I bought 5w30 amsoil for my 2014 jeep grand cherokee witch calls for 5w20.. I don't know if I should use it since those pentastar engines are so sensitive
@@StickNclutch the pentastar actually does great with 5w-30, even better with 5w-40. They're designed for 5w-30 honestly but cafe mandates 5w-20, same on like 99% of engines that take 5w-20, they're designed to take 5w-30 but run 5w-30 but run 5w-20 for slightly better fuel economy.
On these older engines I think it’s ok to deviate from the recommended weight but with newer engines that have hydraulically controlled internals like phasers it could have adverse affects.
Why? That viscosity of 5 is the same either way, 5w20, or 5w30, it's still 5. Use the owners manual made by the manufacturer for approved oil viscosity, online chart for what temps. www.manualslib.com/manual/982725/Kia-Sportage.html?page=410#manual
@@lonniebeal6032 so the 5 is COLD weight only, the 20 or the 30 are hot weights. Also the 2021 mustang gt gets 5w-30 in mexico still so ion see what the problem is.
Let me tell you i did experiment on 10w30 engine oil Recommended at indian temperature 10-40 degree Celsius Whenever the temperature reaches 35 degree Celsius, engine start to make metal contact sound. My question is why on earth they recommend 10w30 ? Can't they just recommend 20w40 ? Its easy. With 10w30 i get 5% better fuel economy, i tested. These low HTST engine oils designed for fuel economy by naming fuel savibg technology. I have used bunch of them. Withing 500km the engine oil turned black.
