2012 owners manual: "NOTE: Vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine must use SAE 5W-20 oil. Failure to do so may result in improper operation of the Multi-Displacement System (MDS)." 2014 owners manual: "NOTE: MOPAR® SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to Chrysler Material Standard MS-6395 may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available" 2016 owners manual: "MOPAR SAE 5W-20 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent is recommended for all operating temperatures." 2022 owners manual: "We recommend using Mopar® SAE 0W-20 Full Synthetic Engine Oil which meets the requirements of the manufacturer Material Standard MS-6395. Equivalent full synthetic SAE 0W-20 engine oil can be used but must have the API Starburst trademark NOTE: Hemi engines (5.7L) at times can tick right after startup and then quiet down after approximately 30 seconds. This is normal and will not harm the engine. This characteristic can be caused by short drive cycles. For example, if the vehicle is started then shut off after driving a short distance. Upon restarting, you may experience a ticking sound. Other causes could be if the vehicle is unused for an extended period of time, incorrect oil, extended oil changes or extended idling. If the engine continues to tick or if the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) comes on, see the nearest authorized dealer." So with the EXACT SAME engine with MDS, we went from "you MUST use 20 weight oil" to "it's OK to use 30 weight" to "we recommend even thinner 0W20 weight" and then finally they admitted that the watery 20 weight oils cause ticking because the viscosity is too thin and the lifters bleed down too fast, plus there is improper lubrication.
I've been saying it for years. And you can look at the 3.6 Pentastar as proof. That motor started using 5W30 when it was released in 2009. Very few lifter/cam failures. In 2014 they went to 5W20, we saw an uptick in lifter/cam failures. In 2017/2018 they switched to 0W20 and lifter/cam failures became common. I'm no rocket surgeon, but it doesn't take a PhD to correlate the reduction in viscosity with the increase in failures. I ran Redline 5W30 in my 2013 and 2017 5.7 Hemi's without issue, and run it in my 2012 and 2021 Wrangler/Gladiator without issue. I run Redline 5W40 in my 6.4 without issue. Those thinner oils aren't being used for anything other than FCA chasing a fraction of a percent better fleetwide fuel economy ratings.
I could care less about that MDS system operating, it's annoying kicking in and out and sounds like crap. I turn it off with the manual shift buttons every time I drive, I don't calculate a difference in fuel economy at all.
Honestly your understanding of motor oils is very off. The 0W20 will be the same or more "thickness" as 5W30 in use. This is because 0W20 shears a lot less because it has a combination of better base stocks and less viscosity improvers. Also the difference between a SAE 30 and SAE 20 is about the width of a human hair. This is also why you can use a 5W30 without issue because the width of a human hair makes no difference.
@@davidporter7051 I was always told that the second number was the weight AFTER the additives. So once that's gone your down to the first number, 0, 5, 10 etc. Thats why when you first ran a Model T you used Vegetable oil, but by the time it was a junker, the clearances and tolerances were so bad you could have run maple syrup. Obviously tech has changed over the last 120+ years. But the thinner the oil, the less affective oil pressure you have in the system, to create the barrier to save the parts from wear, due to it being so freely moving in the system. Now, throw in some cold temps, maybe a Canada winter and we have a whole new ball of wax to discuss/argue/speculate on who's right or wrong. Running 0w20 means the tolerances are supper tight for the rod bearings etc but is the oil pump the same in all these engines of the last decade? Whats the oil pressure at idle vs under load? and was it enough to pump it to the top side of the engine to keep the lifters happy.
Thanks a Lot man, I had a tick noise in my 2014 Hemi dodge ram so I fond your video and I change the oil to 5w30 and the Hemi tick is GONE ! .... Respect from Saudi Ariba.
I have a 2018 300s 5.7 Hemi that I bought brand new and it had the startup tick from the showroom floor. I think the MDS lifters make the noise, but I'm not positive. The noise always goes away within a few seconds so I never sweat it. I changed the break-in oil at 2000mi and then the next change 3000mi later, both times using Penzoil 5w-20 Platinum synthetic (DEXOS) and a Purolator One filter (as you use). I have always changed oil at 3000mi intervals with my older (10w-30) engines, but I decided to try 5K intervals with this Hemi. For the first full 5000mi fill, I added "Bio Tech" Lubegard oil additive (blue bottle, 16oz), which is thin and does not really increase the viscosity. After 5K with that mixture, I can report the tick is almost completely gone since adding the BioTech and my gas mileage went up slightly and also oil temp increased slightly, indicating better heat absorption in the oil (better cooling of moving parts). I might consider following your lead and using the Platinum Penzoil 5w-30 after the engine gets some more miles on it (only 15K on it now) and see if the gas mileage suffers. I don't like the watery oil myself, but I do run 10w-30 in racing engines where others use SAE40 or 20w-50...
Experienced the exact same thing when I bought my Jeep JK Wrangler new off the lot back in '08. The old-school Chrysler 3.8L pushrod V6 in it was designed back in the 80's and originally ran on 15W30 oil, however by the time in ended up in my Jeep, Chrysler had changed the oil spec to 5W20 in order to meet the government-mandated CAFE targets since slightly better mileage was achieved with the thinner oil. From day one that engine was noisy with rattles, tics and knocks and always felt harsh with notable drivetrain vibrations under load and higher RPMs, and it also burned oil from new (plug fouling was also an issue); these engines in the early JK Jeeps were notorious for these characteristics until they were replaced with the new clean sheet designed 3.6L Pentastar V6 in 2011. Anyway, I started doing my own oil changes on it after a few initial dealer services and switched to a quality 10W40 oil, as I live in a hot climate and just wasn't confident that the thin oil was protecting my engine in the summer (which is why I went for a 40 instead of a 30 weight, as our summer days are often 38C/100F plus). On the first drain I did of the 5W20 myself there was noticeable glitter in the used oil, and it seemed very thin and watery draining out and was jet black. As soon as I started the engine up again on the fresh 10W40 the difference was immediately noticeable; the engine idled quietly without any of the usual tics, knocks & rattles, and when I drove it and gave it some RPMs under load the engine revved freely and was silky smooth and quiet, without any of the harshness and vibration from before. On the next drain there was far less glitter in the used oil, with none whatsoever from then on; 14 years and 130K miles later and the Jeep is still running strong with no engine issues. I suspect that Chrysler's attitude regarding using this super-thin oil in order to achieve their CAFE targets is that as long as the engines make it through the warranty period then all is good, even if the life expectancy for the engine is reduced significantly; what happens after warranty's up just isn't their problem.
Exactly. There is much misinformation out there by people who should know better or frankly actively trying to scare people into using CAFE oils. They argue tighter engines, MDS needs it and alike, but none of that is true. Engines aren't built tighter than they used to be. Part tolerances are smaller, but parts design clearances have been kept the same as decades ago.
you might have a good point ,i never had a thick on my engine but since i went to the last oil change i now have one . thanks for the tip i will look that over ..
I'm not sure if it has made a difference or not but I've always added 1 liter of diesel spec oil for all my gas engines at oil change and haven't had any issues. And a lifter from an '04 Hemi will fit and work in an '09 and later Eagle Hemi. So no, they weren't specifically designed for the zero weight oil.
I agree 100% with this from my own experience. Bought my Ram and noticed the ticking symphony at start up. I then switched to Amsoil 5W-30 and Wix filter. The ticking symphony quit and went away immediately. Just run 5W-30 and a filter that flows well.
Thanks for posting this video! I have changed to 5W-30 in my 2015 Ram 1500 hemi, sounds Great now! No more ticking and clanking sounds. I have 51k miles on it and I tow a toy hauler that is 8300 lbs. Hopefully it will add longevity to the engine. Thanks again!
Hey guys auto tech here currently for dodge and worked a little bit for gm You are spot on sir All vehicles with the 0w-20 weight and 5w-20 weight That weight is too thin Helps give these new vehicles a couple extra miles per gallon but reliability goes way down After talking to some guys who’ve been doing it longer than I’ve been alive and in combination with my own experience If you switch to a thicker weight 5w30 or 10w30 You’ll lose a couple extra miles per gallon however the extra thickness really helps coat that cam and the lifters Just thought I’d chime in you were spot on with your video
@@scottcpan68 what’s really insane is that if they didn’t have the active fuel management (afm) or if deleted and ran the thicker oil I would be out of a job These cars are actually made very well and borderline bullet proof what’s screwing everything up is the emission laws being passed by legislation. I have plenty of friends who again have done this a while Built their own race cars Hell they’ve forgot more about cars than I could ever know And even they agree with that statement Take away the afm bs and you got yourself a bullet proof machine
Hemi engine do not like anything over 10-30 because it’s starts to restric in the passages and so forth exspecially in order gums up engines ! Also a Mopar tech been building Mopar for years !! Drag racer/builder
Exactly. I ve been saying this for years. The thinner oil nowadays is all for better fuel economy. Also, newer engines have a higher oil capacity than years ago. Probably cause the thinner oil burns easily and having an extra quart or two in the bigger oil pan helps keep it lubricated. I remember 4 cyl engines from the 80s tool 3.5- 4 qts . Now they are up to 6 qts in some brands.
I have a 2011 5.7 Hemi 180,000 miles I’m going to try 5/30 or 10/30 first before I replace the cam and lifters it’s not a loud tick but I notice it more in drive not moving. It might be broken exhaust manifold bolt a shop told me it’s the cam and lifters but that’s what I’m going to confirm myself.
I have a 2019 RAM 4x4 and I typically use 5w-20 in the winter and 5w-30 in the summer of full synthetic. Another thing that I found that really helps stop the ticking as much in the beginning is a oil additive (metal penetrant) on top to reduce the wear significantly. From doing research many mechanics have said it is because the oil pressure doesn't allow to reach the top end of the engine, hence the 6.2 hemi engine performance oil pump is the way to go on a 5.7 hemi as it bolts right up and gives more performance volume to get that oil faster on the top end! Yes, the type of oil makes a significant difference as well, no doubt! The hemi engines of today also have problems with heat/thaw on the manifolds to snap bolts, which is very common and recommendations are to change the manifolds out to shorty sport tuned headers. Stainless steel headers heat/thaw at rates closer to the aluminum heads than cast iron! There is a big difference between a good quality header and the cheap ones that are out on the market! The recommendations are to have quality tuned shorty headers from what I have heard from many different mechanics! My wish is for people to take care of what they have and may it last for many years to come! I have not had very many problems with my truck since buying it and am thankful to all the engineers who worked hard with making a quality product as I hear stories out there on many different automakers of what can go wrong and/or will eventually! I changed to quality LED backup lights on my truck also, the cheap ones had resister problems and the new ones seem to by pass those problems that even extend to the key fobs with starting issues. Buy quality when you can, then they should last and perform correctly, lessons learned! Life is an adventure!... Love you brother!
@@stevenhicks815 gotta watch it. I am a huge fan of Lucas products, and am new to hemi's. Not used to mds or anything like that. I did an oil change and only used about a quart of Lucas and got a misfire and the lifter code for reactivation. Changed the oil and have had no issues since. Glad I caught it soon.
Not sure what the reasoning is by switching to 5w20 in winter as the cold viscosity is the same in both 5w20 & 5w30. Both are 5 weight when cold-the 20 and 30 are the viscosity when reaching operating Temps ~200°.
As far as oil additives check out this video and what they have to say, Lake Speed Jr is extremely knowledgeable on engine oil, you can check out his RU-vid channel called the motor oil geek - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZBrd3mDvFn8.htmlfeature=shared
I have the 392 and it had the HEMI tick... I remembered this video so much appreciated. I went with 5w40 full synthetic - the manufacuer recommends 0w40 and wow its gone. I cant believe how much smoother the engine sounds, purrs like a kitten...the tick instantly went away = total win.
I had the same issues with my jeep with the 3.6. I just had this conversation with co-workers. My father ran 20w50 in everything and said the same. Low viscosity... he never had any issues. I started running 15w50, and it's super quiet now and gets better fuel economy.
I've told several people to run 5w30 in their Ram 1500 5.7s. The owners manual even says you can in hotter climates. I've ran several of these engines to 200k on 5w30 with zero issues. I'm also a Gen 3 Hemi builder and I've had well over 500 of these apart, and mine with 5w30 were all clean inside. 5w30, 5k religiously intervals.
Spoken like a true engine builder, however, i still do a 2k oil change like there is no filter! Imagine how clean my engine would be if i ever bought anything brand new?
@@J0897 That is why I am soo happy to have bought our Wrangler JK made to order brand spanking new (my first new vehicle). I even asked the dealer to leave it as is as it arrived and they kindly followed my request. It was there in the back of the lot, all original and the dealer let me to take off all the protective plastics. No one has worked on the vehicle since, no one has sat behind the wheel since. I have done everything on the vehicle since, even the car washes. Just sent my oil to a lab for testing, which is a first for me too. 5W30 all the way, despite the (ill) recommend factory 5W20. Some day, I would like to buy another new vehicle, but sadly there is less and less new vehicles that interest me. Anything more than 6-speed auto is out of the question for me, which already excludes (like all???) new vehicles. Also the recent locking of ECM, via Security Gateway Module (SGM) does not sound too encouraging. As if accessing the ECM was not already hard enough. This is just what we 'needed'.
@@wvjeepguy8178 I agree and that is one more thing that I like about the Tacomas. But I heard that sadly 2024 models (maybe even already 2023 models) will be going to move to a 10-speed auto. I hope not. You might be a Tacoma fan and might know more. If so please share. We currently also have a BMW 440i with an 8-speed auto (same as the new Jeeps) and what can I say, we don't like it a bit and exactly the 8-speed auto part of it. It is like driving one of those 50cc motorcycles; you find yourself in 5th gear, while you are still driving at bicycle speeds. I have no idea who likes these auto transmissions with as many speeds like a semi truck. I hear some people find it it sporty. But that is sure not me.
@@mrtopcat2 The 2023 models listed on the site are still showing the 6 speed auto, but i do know they will be going to different transmissions sometimes soon. A transmission isn't going to be inherently worse just because it has more gears. For example, the autos in newer Wranglers are far better than the older autos from just a few years ago. there are already kits to upgrade older wranglers to the newer autos.
I live in Canada and have a 2016 Durango AWD with 5.7 Hemi. Changed over to Pennzoil synthetic because I had a tick noise on cold (frozen) mornings and the tick is gone with this change. I also use a Mopar oil filter.
I run the 5w 20 full synthetic but I also run the Lucas oil additive new car formula and engine tik is gone. I have over 60K on my 2019 fifth gen with no issues and been running Lucas additive since 20K. The 5W 30 is absolutely fine but the Lucas additive is thick and does the same thing basically. Good video brother and happy motoring!
I had 2 hemi trucks that had higher milage I used that stuff in, thinking it would help but I got a really bad lifter ticking like almost knocking both times, seems like it gets in the lifters or something and makes them stiick maybe? I Really wouldnt use additives in these engines. just keep the oil really clean, thats just from my experience with lucas
I've been been upping the viscosity in all of my engines for years. The 5.7 Hemi loves 5w30 I can attest. Most notable was my recent Jeep Gladiator with the 3.6 and my mother in laws Compass with the 2.4. Both specified to run 0W20. Both were extremely noisy, under all conditions - especially at operating temp. Went to 5w30 in both, and they're silent and smooth sounding with zero loss of fuel economy. All this super thin oil is designed for the CAFE standard, and the measured fuel economy number during their initial test. It is not designed for hopping in, running to the grocery store or towing a trailer uphill - where you would never know the difference. Oil related wear failures are becoming some of the most common, across all brands. Keep your engines alive - up the viscosity.
Did the same to my RAV4. 5W-30 and it doesn’t sound like a sewing machine on start up anymore. 220,000 miles and still driven 166 miles daily from North GA to Marietta GA.
Thankyou Sir for this video I’m getting my oil changed right now and I said I want EXACTLY WHAT THIS MAN IS PUTTING in his truck! So I’ll give you an Update ❤
I have a 22 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi and I use penzoil ultra platinum 5w 30 also and I use the Boss purolator oil filter! I have no ticking sound at all! I'm staying with the 5w30 oil!
I have a 2011 ram been running 5-20 synthetic since new , changing it every 6,000 has the tick on start up goes away in 30sec, it currently has 300,000 km on it and still going strong , but I’ll give the 5-30 a try🤙
I got a 2021 RAM ProMaster last year as Thor Rize was my Camper Van choice. And it ran really good after I put in really good oil, put a K&N air filter and ran Lucas fuel stabilizer in it!!!!
I just tried what you recommended on my 2012 1500 5.7 117,000 miles and I gotta say that it made a big difference, it’s the best my engine has sounded, especially on start up, my idle is smoother as well, thank you for making this video!
The oil filter is small, we have a 392 car it specks a larger oil filter. For some time written on dipstick was Mobil One. My wife's truck started the tick at 30,000 I bought 0w 20 or 30 it's been a while so I know the tick went away. Now that it is getting close to oil change I will try 0 w 30. 0 W oil is not watery, all the Mobil one stays cleaner longer. What a new motor has is break in oil. I do not change my break in oil until at least 3000 miles. Just because a oil may seen thin doesn't make it bad oil. The technology of today's oil especially full synthetic is made to penertrate your vital internal parts . Someone completely drained the oil and put back the drain plug on my son's truck when he parked it for a weekend. On his trip to work the warnings came on and I met him at auto parts store. Leaving filter on it held 7 quarts of oil. Did not leak a drop, and when he parked it there was no warnings like he had lost oil. Well it did manage to spin the main bering. Unfortunately he drove it 10 miles to meet me but I had figured it was shot by that time anyway even if he would have pulled off when warning came on it had gone more than half way. I sold him that truck when he was just old enough to take over payments.i used nothing but Mobil one. He drove it with the knock for a hundred miles to dealerships to trade it in it would not die. My regret was him trading it with all the nice parts I had on it lol He needed to get to dealerships. He bought a 2500 diesel due to pulling a trailer and tax write off. The dealer gave him a fair price it was a 2003 1500 off road Laramie. With any other oil it would not have gone a mile. You have to face it lose all your oil and drive it its gonna break. But it was running at second dearship where he bought at.
0W-20 is still a 20 weight oil. The w after "0" stands for "winter". Meaning it will flow like a 0 wieght during the winter in order to be able to flow and not be too thick. Going from a 20 weight oil to a 30 shouldn't be a big deal.
A few weeks ago the oil was a little low in my wrangler. I topped it off with 5w30 (less than one quart). No more tick at start up in cold weather. I only use full synthetic oil and purolator filters.
I purchased my 5.7 1500 new in 2004, currently 350k miles. I remember on my third dealer oilchange they changed from 5 30 to 5 20, on orders from Dodge.
I agree 100% so I always replace one quart of oil with Lucas HD oil stabilizer in every oil change in every vehicle I own. I have done that for years and it includes all my tractors. I use 20% Lucas HD oil stabilizer in my mowers, atv's, side by side UTV's, and all other four cycle small engines as well.
I had the same problem with my 2018 ram! It was driving me crazy!! I thought it was the manifold the lifters!! Make a long story short I did the same thing what you did. And sure enough the tick went away!! 90,000 miles later runs and purrs like a dream!! No problem since!!!
I’ve been running 5w30 in multiple 5.7 hemis. With a lot of mileage. They get 5psi better hot idle pressure and absolutely no valve train noise or issues.
Old post, but I took the advice in the video and changed out the oil at about 800 miles because I was getting tired of hearing the "sewing machine effect" on cold startup. Changed to Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic 5w-30, and VOILA, all ticking noises are GONE, I mean, engine is so quiet now. this 0w-20 oil they put in the hemi engines is almost of a pure water consistency. What a change the 5w-30 made. I'm confident this oil will be just fine for the engine.
I used to have the tick in my 2019 Ram 1500 5.7 liter engine. It lasted until my first oil change at about 4500 miles. I asked the RAM dealership what oil to use, and they recommended semi-synthetic 5W-20 and not full synthetic due to possible damage to electronic monitoring sensors in the oil lubrication system. At any rate, I insisted on adding one quart of Lucas Engine Treatment. This obviously increased the oil viscosity, and the tick went away. I now have nearly 40,000 miles on my truck, and it has performed beautifully with no ticks or visible oil use between 4500 mile oil changes. Taking your advice, I plan to switch 5W-30 at my next change and continue with Lucas. My vehicle often sets for a month or longer between use, and the Lucas helps with dry starts versus 5W-20 that is long gone from the upper engine components.
I build hemis and your correct sir! All bearings in the 03 to current use the same size main and rod bearings....5.7s 6.1s 6.2s and the 6.4s! Good video...
I used Royal Purple. I had the tick previously and once I switched over to royal purple 💜 👌 totally changed the sound of my truck and its a 2021 Ram 1500 Limited. ROYAL PURPLE GUYS
Same as my 5.7 Ford, 5W-30 since the first oil change and it’s going on 200,000 miles. Many of these engines were developed for heavier oil but were overruled by corporate average economy standards.
Thanks for the video. My go to is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Purolator Boss filter. If not Ultra Platinum i try to get Valvoline Extended Protection or Restore and Protect. I have a fleet of about 10 vehicles and try to change oil every 5k miles.
For what it's worth Spouse has 14 grand cherokee overland 5.7 hemi with 74,000 miles-has been a great vehicle overall but noticed the hemi tick especially on startup that would settle down soon after startup. I have taken more of a role in maintenance on this vehicle and in addition to full synthetic changes I also add lucas full synthetic oil stabilizer and I feel that it has greatly if not completely cured the tick. Keep in mind I became a believer in the lucas oil stabilizer product when dealing with my civilian H1 HMMWV with the 6.5 turbo diesel. It is not my daily driver and when i would periodically start/use this vehicle there was a noticeable dry start "clack" for a few seconds that drove me nuts but i expected this as it may be weeks or months between use. Since using lucas oil stabilizer in the humvee it can sit 6 months and intial start is smooooth as silk......there is an undeniable difference. Just my experience take it for what its worth but I use it in my kubota diesel as well. appreciate the info and the channel.
Good video ! I have been using 5w/30 for 2 years , since we bought our 2013 ram 5.7 . I also use a quart of lucas synthetic oil stabilizer . Change it before the "recommend" pre set 10k oil change interval . I might try rotella 5w/40 the next time its due for a change .
That Lucas synthetic oil stabilizer works great. I have a 96 5.2L Grand Cherokee. I bought it used with a little less than 150k miles on it. It sat in a garage for a long time...years. I think it had some stuck lifters. I flushed the engine with Seafoam. The valve train seemed to be a little quieter,but it had a shakey idle. A few days later I drained about a quart of oil and added a bottle of Lucas. Within a week, the Valve train quieted down and it runs really well. Been driving it nearly every day for over a year now. Took it on a few long trips. I trust it. I'm pretty sure that some of the lifters were stuck because sometimes the tick would come and go with just regular 10w30 oil. And it always had good oil pressure.
Great video. Informative with a good clear voice no crappy music in the background. 5W/30 won’t hurt anything. The W stands for winter. The oil will be thin for starting in winter but thickens with heat. Napa oil is blended by Valvoline specs. Look on the back of the jug. Walmart full synthetic oil is excellent oil. Blended by Warren oil company. A very reparable company. He’s right don’t fall for pretty bottles and logos. Watch on RU-vid . Conventional oil vs synthetic a lab owner sets us straight. Lab guys use what’s on sale. Best oil is clean oil.I change my oil and filter when I can’t see my oil dip stick level lines through the oil. Over fifty five years of doing it this way and never ever had an engine problem. Hey but what do I know. 😁
Been running Mobil One 5w-20 since the first oil change on my 2009 Ram Sport with the 5.7 HEMI and changed oil religiously every 3000 miles. Never dealt with any ticking at all on the engine and now just over 220K miles. Have always used WIX filters at every oil change. I do add a "motor flush" application before every third or fourth oil change to soften up and remove any sludge/varnish in the journals and cavities to keep the oil flowing smoothly as with all my other vehicles and seems to be working like a charm. The only engine/drivetrain part replaced so far were the alternator and the serpentine belt. I've added a can of B-12 Chemtool to the tank at every other fill-up to keep the fuel system clean since it was new, and never had any starting/stumbling/performance issues at all.
same here with my hemi. pennzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20, wix/xp filters, and 3,000 mile intervals. i think there’s a case to be made for switching to 5w30 or 5w40 but i think playing around with oil viscosity is a dangerous game. simply using the best oil and filters as well as maintaining strict service intervals matters a lot more.
I wouldn't deny this solved your issue. I have a few cars with hydraulic lifters which had issues with tick. Every single one of them has been cured of this issue with Rotella T6 5W40
i have a 2017 ram 1500 with that hemi...i installed royal purple 5w20 and K&N oil filter and boy that motor rapped when cold.i switched to a mopar oil filter and amsoil 5w20 and that noise disappered.....amazing it has now 200,000 no oil loss and just replaced the spark plugs,serp belt,tranny fluid and coolant...i also sprayed the chassis with fluid film and carwell oil for corrosion since i live in Buffalo NY
I admit I don't know much about this particular situation, but I find it hard to believe that this motor is the same as it was 20 years ago. With that said, I would say that the engineers do know more despite what's said in the video. In my experience I can clearly hear a difference between Mobil 1 and Valvoline. Valvoline made my engine much quieter and it was still 0W20. Oils with a high moly concentration are supposed to make engines quieter. Valvoline Extended Protection would be one of those with the moly.
My 2013 1500 5.7 new to me in 2015 tick went away after switching to Amsoil 5w-30 and keeping it at the top mark on dipstick which actually requires about 1/3 qt more than the 7 qts called for. 155K miles.
The issue is not the lifter. This has been brought up many times. One person talk about camshafts failure like failed heat treatment than flake off the lobe into the lifter. Your idea is spot on if that roller is finds a thin spot on a lobe the roller could go through and tick. Sound advice in this video
I´v read that such a wide span of Viscosity makes it hard for the oil to STAY IN GRADE! It might be due to the additive package being unable to work as well as with a shorter grade of oil like 5w-30 - 10w-40 - 15w-40
In my 14’ I’ve been running 5w-20 full synthetic since day one and never have valve train noise. I now have a passenger side exhaust manifold to replace causing some cold start up noise but that’s it. I know the heavy duty application of the 5.7L said 5w-30 never personally felt I needed to run it. Worth a shot I guess if you’re hearing noise.
My 6.4 hemi makes noise on the passenger side under the truck and it sounds like exhaust or exhaust manifold noise and it goes away after about 30 seconds. Chrysler replaced the whole bank of lifters and it didn’t make one bit of difference. I have just learned to live with it
@@floydlarken3148 Its broken exhaust manifold bolts, mostly goes away after cold start as the metal manifold swells with heat. After having to weld my broken bolts out of the heads I put a straight edge on the manifolds and found they were warped severely. This is common to all manufacturers according to the vids I've been seeing on youtube. I bought new manifolds and gaskets on amazon, they were china made but were true to the straight edge and no more cold start ticking since. However my HEMI does sound like a rattly diesel when driving, maybe changing to thicker oil will help that.
I have a 2015, when I drove it off the lot they filled it up with 87 octane and assured me I could just run the 87 in it going forward. During the first tank I noticed the lifter tick which drove me crazy (this is a new truck!). After looking into it Mopar recommends running 89 octane but states 87 is exceptable if 89 is not available. From my 2nd fill up until now I have been running 89 and have not noticed any ticking noises at all. So it might have something to do with the octane also, almost everyone I know that has the 5.7 Hemi runs 87, and I can tell them any different. Your truck, your repairs!
My son has the Hemi in his 08 1500 that he has had since he was 16. This truck has seen severe use, We live in Florida and down here I run 10w30 high millage full synthetic Mobile 1 and filters like I do in all of our engines. It now now has over 200,000 miles, No tick.
Hi .. my 392 2020 Challenger ScatPack HEMI ticks from the first day … and then I use 10w60 Castrol … the ticking is gone …. runs great very often full speed on German Autobahn… I use it for years in all my cars …also in my 2007 Audi A6 3,0 TDI ( Diesel) … , 1,8t New Beetle and in my IROC Camaro… Greeting from Germany
0-20 is recommended in the manual it gives you other options for oil viscosity. My first 2 oil changes I used 0-20 mobile 1 but will bump it up to a 30 weight or 40 perhaps.
