powerstrokehelp.com/ Archoil: archoil.powerstrokehelp.com/ A conversation about the EGR cooler and oil cooler and their role in 6.0L engine damage/meltdown. Also solutions to solve these issues so you will not have these problems.
I have a stock 04 F-350 crew cab 4X4 Centurion, 150K miles, never any serious issues but have been concerned with the EGR cooler stories. I bought a replacement EGR cooler, took to a machine shop where they charged me $40 to weld ends shut. It took me about 15 hours of Labor over the weekend (disassembled & cleaned turbo at the same time) I followed the advice of this video exactly and I am shocked with the difference. Couldn't be happier! Thanks!
Egr delete and complete bulletproof on a f250 power strike after 200 miles lol. Took me a entire week doing it myself. Years later I’m at 310 going strong.
I love your videos. I'm currently waiting for a 2004 F350 to arrive and I would be SO lost without them. Thanks! And I need to find the way of making that oil cooler remote without going $2K... I've done it before with smaller engines...
@Oilmanhenry I have found it best to leave it in and plugged in especially in 05 and later 6.0s. When the truck is first started the PCM performs a complete diagnostic of the electrical system. The PCM will find the EGR valve unplugged it sets a code. Some tuning programs will over ride this. I prefer to leave it so the diagnostic is completed successfully and then the tuning never opens the valve. It is far more effective with less drivability problems in the long run.
I did the sinister style at 46,000 miles and a Hypertech Max Energy, 5" exhaust w/ 4" down pipe, fuel pressure spring upgrade, Amsoil external bypass oil filter and have had to only replace the FICM @ 99,000 and IPC sensor twice but invented a specialty socket the second time i replaced it. I have total confidence in my 6.0. Its got 3.73 gears and choose not to Highway drive above 75mph keeping the rpms about 2100. I just bout another 6.0 F-450 and am going to do every thing but full exhaust. It has 167,000 miles so I'm getting it late but i feel not to late to save it. However the gears in the 450 are 4.88 and at 65mph the rpms are at 2400 this sucks but Im not pulling heavy loads and the terrain around where i live is flat compare to the mountains in Ky and Tennessee . I've always felt that the egr was the source of the problem but never heard anyone else lead off with it till now. Thanks for the videos .
Thanks for your great videos I have a oil leak that showed up on the high pressure oil line fittings thought it was a rear main seal lol yea the valley had a pool of oil thanks again my 02 7.3,has 92 k on it
I love all the information you put out there it is a lifesaver..i bought an 04 f350 and the coolant was garbage flushed the system and havent had issues since
Bill, have a great idea for a clip, the problems you can (WILL) have if you put DEF into your diesel fuel tank. A good friend got extreamly lucky, he put DEF in while the engine was running, and got some into his engine. Had to replace every sensor in his fuel system and a 30 second mistake turned into a 5K nightmare! Keep the clips coming! Thanks
props for inventing the EDAS. even though I don't own a truck myself, i am quite aware of the issues with these powerstrokes. I would sure have it if I ever bought a 6.0/6.4.
Bill, your clips are very helpful and I refer about every powerstroke owner to your channel. Need more with 6.7s. Have your Engine damage Avoidance System on MY 1997 F-250. If you have one for a Duramax aplication, I would buy one. Keep up the good work.
@Oilmanhenry The truck is running too cool and staying in warm up mode (pouring more fuel). You may need to cover part of the radiator in the winter, like the old school truckers.
@1curt12 Where exactly would you buy a gauge that can handle a glycol environment? I've been at this for going on 5 years and it is not as easy as it seems.
Ahhhhh! We had a 2005 or 6 E250 with a 6.0 in it that I ran daily for service calls (Diesel tech/rental service.) It overheated on me once in heavy traffic on a summer day. Found out the fan clipped the harness/wire to turn the fan on. I ran the heat as much as I could, but it still overheated. Temp was fine once I swapped the fan. I changed jobs, and come to find out it blew a HG a couple months after I left. Wonder if the EGR system had something to do with it.Good video! Clear up a lot
hey bill! just looking into welding plugs into the EGR system,and noticed some people are using a silverweld to set the plugs.. i believe silver weld has a melting point of aprox 850 degrees and the EGR system runs between 800 to 1200 degrees. what do you use to braze the steel plugs into the EGR system?
Hey Bill. Been watching all of your videos for some time. As some of the 6.7s are coming off warranty, are people modifying them to remove the DPF, SCR, EGR cooler, EGR delete? Stuff like that?
Hey, I have a question about the egr delete that you did. So let's say my egr is bad and it has a coolant leak . So then I do the egr delete. So I weld the ends and put it back in I hook up everything and so on. So here is my question so if the egr is bad and leaking if I weld the ends won't the coolant leak out were the egr went bad and collect in the egr or will it just pass through like it normally does. Thank you god bless .
Thanks for the Excellent video. Coolant disappearing in my 04. looks like a heck of a project. whats is you opinion of the "bulletproofdiesel" EGR cooler as well as oil cooler? Thanks
@mrlaroney Gotta take a big patience pill to work on a van. I'd forget about the kit because they can leak coolant. Just remove your cooler and have it welded shut. It looks stock and it wont leak.
Some folks keep an extra valve around. Or you can use a tuner to switch back to emissions tuning during testing and after the test switch back to emissions off tuning that never opens the valve.
I just had the HPOP replaced, along with a new IPR, a new ford oil cooler, and a bulletproof egr cooler. The only thing i want to do now is O- ringed heads, head studs and injectors.... I was told to avoid 175 or 190cc injectors on my daily driver. would a set of 50hp (155cc) be a good option or do you recommend stock injectors? LASTLY what would a bill for that head job and injectors look like?
thank you for your response. Bill I want to also ask you. please where can I get metal screened fuel filters instead of the stock paper filters. Nothing has been modified to my truck. everything is stock. I appreciate a response thank you.
Bill - awesome help. Priceless. I'm currently repairing the no start when hot high pressure oil issues on my 2005 6.0 with 43,000 miles. Since i have the engine apart, i'm considering doing the egr delete per your recommendation to weld the tubes. I also wonder if I should go ahead and change the oil cooler: when i took off the degas unit, there was a considerable amount of black residue on bottom. Is this potentially a sign of precipitate in the oil cooler as well, or unrelated? Thanks again!
AWWW i was going down the road minding my own business and it blue-up HAHAHAHA GREAT VIDs looking forward to bringing my truck to you!! I am in clarksville TN and will be calling soon still saving pennies for long list of work thanks
Help- my 2017-Ford Transit 3.2 Diesel just over heated / loosing coolant, white exhaust, EGR Failure at 57,000 miles - I starting to think i should have went with the ECO Boost ?
i took my bad egr cooler and took a hammer and long metal things and broke the little radiator completely out of the cooler housing. i took the housing to the engine shop and had it hot tanked. i cut pieces from another cooler and tig welded both holes up. is this how you do it or do you leave the cooling tubes inside. what kind of metel do you use for your end plugs ? a friend wants one of these and i got rid of the cooler i cut metal from.
what would it cost to have the EGR done like that on an 03 F250 6.0? no issues as of yet but February of 2015 Oil cooler ruptured and had it puking this peanut butter consistency stuff from degas bottle. had thought about the Bulletproof diesel kits for it....
I actually dont recommend welding the EGR coolers in a 6.4L at all. THe EGR cooler passage is also used as a popback valve for your turbo. If you block the system you run the risk of shearing the shaft on your turbo.
bill I have a 2007 king ranch 6.0 with 48,000 miles and was pulling my camper when the temp went from 1/2 to 3/4 for a sec I pulled over and checked the coolant and was a gallon low it had came out of the cap. I took it to have a oil cooler put in and the egr cooler welded and coolant filter added and new coolant cap am I on the right track as far as the dash light what can I do with out programing to get it off. have not changed the head studs.
@powerstrokehelp Okay thanks a lot! I think I'll just stick to the 7.3s, we are over here in Etowah county, AL. We have an '01 F-350 with 67k on it, so if I ever have any problems out of it, I'll be sure to take it to Georgia to have y'all work on it. Thanks for the help!
Hey thanks for the video it helped seen as how I know my EGR cooler has failed and i'm waiting to take my truck into a shop here in canada. Now your experience with the sinister delete kit was interesting and I trust you seen as how you do this day in and day out and also your saving me money with not buying the delete kit. But do I just get a welding shop to weld to plugs into the EGR cooler? and I don't have to tamper with the Y pipe at all just leave it stock correct? Thanks
I have a 2006 f250 with 178,000 miles. All stock as far as i know and i was wanting to flush the radiator and of course put motorcraft gold back in it just to make sure its in it and not something else the previous owner poured in. It runs great and i have heard from many people to install the egr delete so should i just do the weld method like you have shown before or after i flush and replace the coolant or does it matter when, or should i just leave the truck as it is? Thanks so much!
2006 f35O Dually 6.0 184k miles, air raid intake, Blue spring conversion, getting ready to install egr delete, coolant filter, and SCT tuner. Truck just started chugging and blowing smoke on acceleration with lack of power till it gets to a certain RPM then just takes off fine. what do you think issue might be? please help
A few questions about sequence the sequence of modifications. Can I get the FICM reflashed and PCM flashed by POWERHUNGRY prior to all this or wait till after? Additionally the SCT tuner from DP tuner you mention in this video I can purchase this tuner and have them create a fuel economy mode? Will this effect the FICM/PCM flash that was done causing it to be a waste? I really want better fuel economy I don't do any towing. Thanks for your time.
Bill, I own a 2008 F250 with 80K. What do you recommend I do? Were those issues corrected for the 6.4? or should I go ahead and weld the cooler as you have explained? Thanks!
hi bill i have a question i am here in ca i pretty much gave a refresh to my 04 6.0 at 102k replaced the egr upgraded cooler and egr valve and 15k later my new valve sticks so i got another one. know it runs fine again i currently don't have a tuner but i am going to purchase one i was looking at the edge for monitoring and sct for a tuner. so what i wanna know if i turn the valve off for the 2yr inspection interval am i going to need a new egr valve. please i appreciate a response
So if i have a bad egr cooler (wet inside the egr valve but no smoke out the tailpipe) can i just weld up both sides of the egr cooler and put it back in?
I have a question ,I have a customer that bought a 07 f250 with a 6.0 and it had just go item the head gaskets replaced ,but they did not replace the head bolts .my question is this can the head bolts be replaced one at a time or do the head gaskets need to be replaced
@powerstrokehelp i know. i want to say it could be good and allow to avoid engine damage if there was a separate coolant system for the egr stuff. no ?
Since you weld the end shut and re-install the egr cooler do you still install the coolant lines to the egr cooler as they originally are? Or do you plug or bypass the coolant around the egr cooler?
Bill i have a early 2004 f250 6.0 at cold start it starts great but has no power will not build any rpm after idleing for ten min or so does fine. On the other hand once it been run and gets to operating temp it is hard to start. no codes no programer had injectors checked and replaced four on pasenger side any thoughts on what to check
Hi, if I block off my egr cooler and leave the egr valve installed. will I have a affect on how the engine will run, or possibly blow head gaskets? thanks.
@whereispg I actually drove to work in the same car today. It is the perfect car for my teenage daughter. Love the car but EDAS is not necessary in this application because there is no EGR system and the head gaskets are not at risk.
I got a question Bill. I have an early 03 6.0 in my Excursion with 225K miles on the clock. Stock original EGR cooler and oil cooler. My question is, when at normal speed my deltas are 170wt * 178ot. (has a bad thermostat) However when at freeway speeds 70-80mph my deltas will go up to around 14-16 degrees. I know the number to avoid is 15 degrees. I'm assuming I have a slight oil cooler blockage. I do have a coolant filter so it shouldn't get worse. Am I in immediate danger or no?
The EGR valve stays. It needs to be plugged in at initial start up so that the computer "sees" it. After the truck has run for a moment the computer goes to open loop (loaded computer program) where it reads sensors and makes adjustments. At this point the EGR valve is never opened by the computer.
I have an 06 f350 6.0 with 134k...when cold it runs very rough and after idling for 6-7 min it has no power whatsoever..I mean won't hardly untrack itself...then when its warm and you go to start it sometimes it idles very low with no accelerators response at all?? What could cause this? Objectors? Bad ficm? Thanks for any advice!
This is a longshot. I have an 05 6.0 and I have oil coming from the exhaust into the turbo. Has anyone seen this? Is it possible I have injector seals going bad? It looks like raw oil on the inlet side of the exhaust, not the outlet side so it doesn’t seem to be an issue with the turbo seals
On the egr delete, why not remove the egr valve completely? Is there an advantage of leaving it in? I noticed some kits give you a plug for it and others don't. What do you advise?
chuck's 6.0 I am a machenic.On 2003 to 2007.You can do a EGR delite with out it throwing a code.What i do is use stainless freeze plugs.30mm and 1 3/8 to block it off.I drive a 2003 6.0.I have had very few problems.I have never chiped it tho.
what would happen if i just installed the up-pipe and left out the blocking of the coolant? would it be effective? wouldnt that still keep the coolant cool ? or would that cause other problems
My cooler is in great condition, so I TIG welded it closed on both ends and reinstalled it. Just like the video says. This is a better solution. There is NO WAY any coolant will ever get to the intake tract, even if the coolant side of the this heat exchanger were to fail.
I'm thinking of doing the same thing. was it stainless or aluminum? what diameter and thickness pieces did you use to weld it shut? also, did you use a tune to turn off all the egr stuff off, or leave the programming alone?
I have a problem with this EGR delete solution. DISCLAIMER: I’m not a mechanic, so I can be totally mistaken. The problem with this solution is that the coolant is still circulating through the EGR. If the EGR is blown or eventually ruptures, you have the serious problem of coolant filling the exhaust portion of the EGR and then contaminating the coolant system with exhaust soot. Also, you will still have the exhaust flange and “scoop” that directs exhaust gas. So you’re more likely to have an exhaust leak from the blocked-off end and you’re also hindering your exhaust flow by keeping the scoop in tact. Lastly, this is only a cheaper solution if you are a welder or have easy access to one. It seems to me that total removal and bypass is still the best option. Just find a supplier that offers a good leak resistant clamp set up. It’s a clamp. That’s an issue that shouldn’t be too hard to overcome. My fellow 6.0 brethren... please chime in if I’m wrong :-)
when EGR cooler is blocked off from hot exhaust gases it's chance of rupturing 100x lower. Also as he was explaining in the video that "scoop" is necessary as it keeps the exhaust pipe from wobbling and braking stuff