Fantastic job! You really put videos together very professional. its obvious you put time and thought into them. I can't wait to see more ole bones vids. (Wouldn't cap the CDR/PCV) its meant to regulate crank case pressure. Try to put it on that new pipe off the turbo maybe. Or you could go with the S&B air filter air box.
Thanks swc. Will look into the S&B box. Hate to just let that vent hose hang out there doing nothing. Thanks for all of the advice too. I appreciate it.
Thanks for producing these great videos. I just purchased a 1994 Silverado C3500 6.5L Turbo Dually with just 89,600 miles on it. Near mint condition with custom leather interior, real wood trim not a dent or scratch on it (except for some chips from the lousy original GM factory paint). My plan is for it to tow an 11,500 pound RV about 25 miles three or four times a year as well as being my daily driver. This is my first diesel after 52 years of driving gasers, so I am soaking up all the information I can get my hands on.
Makes me miss my old 6.5. Traded up for a first gen cummins & never looked back... That being said, a bigger turbocharger really, really, (i cannot stress enough) REALLY, made a huge difference. I bit the bullet & dropped $800 on an "A-Team Turbo" (hindsight 20/20 wish I wouldn't have got that particular turbo for various reasons, main one being the price, I coulda got a Holset HE351VE that needed a rebuild for around $3-400, built a manual vane controller, and done much better for about the same, that turbo didn't spool good until 2000-2200RPM) But yea, I hate to beat a dead horse but if you really want to wake that engine up, get that tiny little GM-8 turbo off & put a WH1C or HX35 or 40 on it instead. I have some videos on my page that I've made private since, & a writeup of the install if you'd be interested in it. One more thing, nothing really beats the '97+ cone style airbox, it actually gets it's air through a vent in the fender & is completely enclosed. Mathematically, it can provide more air than the 6.5L can ask for, even with a larger holset turbo (measured in CFM). One last thing, if you haven't heard of thetruckstop.us then you should check it out. Those guys are on a whole nother level with the 6.5l. If you come across any posts by the use "bigdaddyinacaddy" that was me. It's been a probably half a decade since i've even though about TTS, so tbh i don't know if it even exists any more. But if it doesn't, It'd be a damn shame, & a great loss of information. Some of that stuff deserves to be in a book in a library somewhere. No joke! Holler, Coupe D.
R R check here for write ups. www.thetruckstop.us/forum/forums/6-5-performance.229/ It was way back in 2011 or so when I did mine, so it’s probably pretty deep in there. I don’t have time to find it for you
Don’t cap off the CDR. And not every aftermarket part is better. The air filter under the hood increases intake air temps and in turn EGT’s aswell. The K&N filter in the stock airbox with the fender intake hooked up is about the best way to go other than the K47 intake system from the newer 6.5s. The CDR vent tube should have a hole cut in the silicone coupler in front of the turbo so it can suck the vented crank case gas back into it. Read up on some forums for more info. Also, easiest thing to do for more power is make or purchase a “turbo master” to make the wastegate hold more boost. You can go up to 12 lbs without putting the truck in limp mode. Can go higher for short durations to unless you use a gasser 3 bar map sensor.
I got a manual waste gate control from Heath and turned it up a bit, threw away my K&N filter when I noticed dust in the tube and replaced it with an Amsoil dual density foam filter. It got 18.5mpg with stock tires but I gladly gave up 2mpg for 8 inch wheels and 265/75-16 Toyo AT TIRES. The difference in handling was huge and the Edelbrock IAS Performer shocks gave it a very nice ride, and so its said, even faster response than computerized shocks. Sadly, Edelbrock sold its shock side and they're no longer available. Those were the best shocks I ever used on a light truck. Amazing how selling a part of a business often results in inferior parts. No doubt we've all seen that too many times.
Just ordered the kit from Quadstar for my 96 6.5 Suburban. Thanks for taking the time to produce this video. Your’s is literally the only one on YT that I could find. BTW: John at Quadstar provided amazing customer service and got the order out within an hour of he and I trading emails about the specifics for my truck.
I had the same setup on my 6.5. It would always blow off anytime I went over 10 pounds of boost. The clamps would walk off for some reason. Just picked up a new quad star tuning one and it honestly seems so much better quality
I'm new to your channel. I bought my "toy", a former US Army MP vehicle, which is a 1999 Chevrolet K2500 Suburban 6.5L Detroit diesel & I love it. It has definitely been a fun project to tinker on & drive. Thank you for all of your informative videos.
Looking and sounding great. The only downside of the filter is the engine heat it pulls into the turbo. It was very noticeable on the intake temp. I added an intercooler and a heat shield and it helps a lot. Now I need a better turbo as I can barely get 15 psi at the intake manifold after adding the intercooler. If you add an intercooler definitely add a catch can in between the pcv tuna can and intake on your turbo to minimize oil blow-by in the intercooler. If you need pics of my handy work let me know. I'll post some pics of the intercooler and pcv catch can I Enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing your experiences, and knowledge. The 6.5 doesn't get much positive attention here.
Forgot to mention that you don't want to block off the pcv Tuna can. (The device on your valve cover). It regulates crankcase blow-by pressure from the block and pulls the gasses into the turbo. If you block it off it will create high pressure in your block and could create oil leaks from main seal or other places. Keep up the great work and videos.
Yep, I already noticed a bunch of fresh oil under my truck when before there was hardly a drop. going to put the old air box back on until I come up with an alternative. Thanks for watching.
@@SimplybEpic Darn, I hope the leak is only temporary. I like the pod filter it just needs a better way to pull cooler air. There is the K47 airbox option that came with some of the trucks if you can find one. If you go this route pull the baffling in the fender. It helps a little. I think the baffling was for noise reduction. Thanks again for your videos, I enjoy them.
I have a few 6.5 turbo diesels. I put the spring waste gate on the turbo. It made a world of difference. 14 lbs of boost. The vacuum pump just messes everything up. By the time you get ambient pressure you're only making about 2 lb of boost with it.
Thanks for the video, I have just ordered this same kit for my 98 K1500 with the 6.5, I have put a new wicked wheel turbo on my truck, got the fist stage towing kit from Heath diesel, and a couple items from Leroy diesel also. but I had read that this factory intake really robbed you of power because of the fact the round section of the intake manifold becomes squished as it goes into the lower intake, so this should flow more air as you build pressure above the factory setting
The stock airbox is much better than an exposed filter in the engine bay. To boost the thermal efficiency of it, you could cover the airbox with DEI insulation. That exposed filter will also get much dirtier faster.
Agreed plus enclosed air creates better air pressure for suction so in my opinion the factory is better! But Lift pump And Pmd location from factory sucked
Oh, & to do with the CDR: The CDR is kinda like the opposite of the PCV. Well, kinda. A diesel doesn't have a throttle body. When the piston takes in air, it takes a full gulp. There isn't any resistance, therefore any vacuum generated or needed to idle properly. The CDR is pretty much like a blowoff valve for the crankcase, but instead of (like a gas engine) needing vacuum at idle, a diesel "needs" a vacuum at a higher RPM, because if there isn't one, it will blow every seal out of the engine. Kinda like how a clogged PCV will blow the valve cover gaskets, then usually blow the crank seals, EXCEPT the crank seals will blow long before the valve cover seals even start leaking. One day you've got oil in the case, plug the CDR, next day you've got oil on the ground, spun bearings and probably a snapped crankshaft (if i know anything about 6.5l's) I upgraded mine until literally the next performance part on the list was a $2200 forged steel crankshaft. All-in-all, I sank about $4000 in it, and it ran like that for as long as I had it, and performed very well, had a lot more power than a 350, about as much or more torque than a 454 & still got 18-20mpg. This was in a 1995 K1500 heavy-half. I had a shift kit in the 4l80e, A-team turbo, heath diesel chip, walbro FRC-10 lift pump, autometer boost, fuel pressure & EGT gauges in a pillar, a 1&1/2" crossover tube (with EGT probe bung) Full 4" exhaust, "F" vin lower intake manifold (EGR delete), FTB (feed the beast) modified fuel filter housing with larger lines, can't forget the bumper mounted PMD heatsink & 6' extension harness, i'm sure i'll think of a couple more things before I go to bed tonight. It ran absolutely wonderful. I cut my losses & sold the truck for $5000 to a guy I knew, he took the engine out, put it in a different (his) truck, and let the turbo drain leak all his oil out & spun the bearings 2 months after I sold it to him. Oh well, like i said, I bought a mint 1st gen cummins for $4500 & never looked back.
I had that same issue with the air intake tube. I left it in place removed the filter box and placed a 4" outer diameter filter on to the original intake tube. Its flexible and might need a little lube to squeeze it into the tube. It hangs it right behind the battery and you keep the crank vent tube open and in original function.
With the intercooler on this it will highly increase power as well as if you have a overheating problem will going up hill that setup from factory was not very good. It can also cause a blown headgasket problem. The hot air is very bad for it and in return causes any engine regardless if it's a diesel or a gas engine. Anyways the isuzu diesel engines are very good engines
I don’t know exactly how far and how much you’ve done to your old truck, but I know when I started on my old 1997 C3500 6.5l diesel it seem like one thing led to another. I started with the cold air intake. S&B. Then I put the 3 inch downpipe from the turbo to 4 inch exhaust system, all the way out the back that lasted a long time the PCV ventilation system on the crank case on the right hand side, the vents into the front side of the turbo worked pretty good with the old engine, but when the old engine move the head gaskets, I put a brand new engine in it in 2017 they called the P 400 it’s still the 6.5 but from the factory it’s heavily modified I found that the turbo sucks a lot harder with that S & B. So it sucks a lot of Oil in through it into the front side of the turbo and into the intake system making an oily mess. Even though I put a brand new PCV valve on it, it still sucks more because the engine breathes better pumps more air through that turbo so I ended up running a longer hose 1 inch hose from that valve over the top of the engine and then down overboard like the old time, keep the engine clean that way inside no more oil into the turbo I even tried and oil air separator that didn’t work either. Good luck with your project you’re never done there’s always something to do including a new wiring harness over the top end of the engine to replace the old one that’s wearing out.
Jerry, yes I started to fix up just like you did, and then one day out of nowhere the engine through a rod. So, put a new engine in. Recently sold this truck. I think that was my last video I posted. On to something new. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You are definitely want your tuna can (CDR) hooked up with the hose above the intake like it was. It functions with crankcase pressure both positive and negative unlike the pcv valve. And house above the plenum allows blow by oil to drain back. Plus i have the same filter setup that works good but in warm days you will notice lag from under hood temps. Not to be a buzz kill but my setup is very similar and 10 year tested. Just haven't built a box yet for it (wish I had a long time ago). I would love to redo the upper intake like that but mine is an egr intake. Haven't deleted it as of yet. Keep going though! Love that truck!
Thanks for the comments. Yes, I have actually redone the entire set up as I added a different turbo. Video should be out this week so stay tuned. Thanks for watching also.
That’s intake piece from turbo to manifold should be plastic like k&n because metal will soak the heat and the plastic dissipates heat better but cool none the less
You have to keep the PCV hook up to pass the emissions in your state...what about keeping the hose from the old air cleaner for the PCV hook up.??? It will place the new air cleaner in a better place away from the ac compressor...
Watch Gale Banks "Killing a Duramax Part 4", you will learn that you are now drawing hot air from under the hood and are reducing the oxygen density going into your turbo. You would be better off with a newer model 6.5 intake with the cover left on. The flat air filter had low surface area compared to your new cylinder filter which is why you saw some performance gain. But you can do even better if you draw air from outside of the engine compartment. What you have here is a hot air intake, less oxygen density and hotter air too.
@@SimplybEpic torque pro combined with a Bluetooth obd2 lets you read engine data and faults in real time on your phone. I also have an android head unit which allows me to run to heads-up display while im driving because mobile use is prohibited here.
How did you reduce your watsegate actuator pressure? Doing the same swap and the installed actuator is well over 10psi. Did you buy a different actuator or is there a fail-proof way to adjust the one that came with it?
No gasket. It looked Like there was a gasket on the stock plenum and I just reused it. It was stuck to the intake manifold. I noticed a slight increase in whistle. Thanks for watching.
I didnt change the air intake on moter just mdified where the turbo meets the intake and it is at angle towards pass. Finder . Take pics tomrw, and send if u want
Did you. Finally reinstall cdr. Plugging it off can cause a lot of pressure build up you will start to see your seals leak one by one in Awesome mod I want to do the same to my 6.5.
Hi there, very nice upgrade and video. What do you think? I know the kbdiesel intakec with sensor ports it's out of stock but they said they should have more by early next year. I was also looking to at quadstar which doesn't have as much clamping. There is a big difference in price. Kbdiesel is less then Quadstar. Which would you suggest. Kbdiesel is around 208usd +54 shipping to Canada and Quadstar is 270usd +54 shipping to Canada? Thank you
nice video i had a question i have the 6.5 1992 c2500 and is it normal for it to be at 3000rpm going 65mph and 3500rpm going 75mph i heard its because of the gear ratio
I am not able to quote full potential of HP or Torque numbers as I have seen them all over the map. I personally believe that by doing some moderate upgrades these engines will produce 275-300 in HP and 400’s in torque. There are definitely other engine platforms that are much better for modifying to get to the high numbers. That being said, doing the moderate upgrades to this engine is worth it and makes a competent daily driver. Yes, most other platforms give you these numbers in stock form or with minor mods, so you just have to pick your platform and go. I love my truck so this is the one I am sticking with. Thanks for watching.
Hey man i really need some help you know where they fix the starter mounts for a 94 gm 6.5 detroit diesel because im having problems woth my truck my starter mounts needs to be re- done or can you please make a video of how to do it i will thank you so much
Just subscribed to the channel a few nights ago and have already been waiting for more content on ole bones! Love what you’ve done to it. Question have you relocated the pmd on this truck? I’ve searched and haven’t found a good quality video on the process.
Thank you Zelly!!! My truck is a 1993 so the PMD issue is not a problem on my year model. But, go and checkout Leroy Diesel. I think he has a video on it or can at lease point you in the right direction. He specializes in the 6.5 and sells a relocation kit. Very good parts and information.
Epic Cars ahh you are so correct. I keep forgetting you said the gentleman before you updated the grille on this truck. I’ve been thinking it was newer. Loving the build and content keep it up!
I want to do this to my 6.5, but mine has the MAP sensor on the stock tube coming from Turbo. I wonder if they have one that has a Spot for it on aftermarket Tube. Also I took my Tube you blocked off and got some 5/8 heater hose about 4 ft of it and ran it down by frame and stuck in hole in frame. You can try that if you want. It gets a little oil on inside of box part of frame but it wont rust there...LOL Thanks for the video
Boy, you are testing my memory here. I did this almost 2 years ago. I don't think I did. But will go back and look at the video before edits to make sure. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I thought that if you increase the intake then you also have to increase the exhaust size? I may have missed that this is actually the same size intake as you had..
I am not sure it is required to increase size of exhaust but it always helps. I put a 4 inch turbo back exhaust on a little bit prior to the intake. Thanks for watching.
Omg DO NOT CAP OFF THE CDC VALVE! Gonbackntonthe stock air elbow and cild air one thing is you have to have the cdc valve connected. Or Keep it plugged youll find out what happens:D
I have also installed the battery cable and glow plug wire upgrade from a company called ptwiringsolutions.com. This has made the truck a bit more reliable
Just run that vent down to your frame with a 5/8” hose 6.5 diesel runs so much better when it isn’t sucking in all of its dirty shitty blow by mine has been like that for years
Join my group on fb search diesel junkies I will let you in so you can actually learn why not to do certain things and learn about what mods actually work.
I average around 14. Now that is towing, city and hwy combined. It gets around 9 towing with a fairly heavy load. On the highway unloaded I get around 17. Thanks for watching.
I actually have one but i dont have it bolted down so i keep it safe because of that reason. They're on ebay but their goin for like a 100 bucks and up. Good luck bro!
HY! You seem to know what you re talking about, so I have a problem for you to solve, or at least to give an opinion on that. I own 6.5 td Silverado from 1995 with a PMD control unit. From 6 mount the car give s me the simptoms of a bad PMD(it start raugh and the injection has a raugh sound also, leak of power, white and black smoke, biger fuel consumption and cruise control wont work) but sometimes it runs normaly for a minute or two after I first start it in the morning. I baught 3 PMDs from Ebay but yet the problem is not fixed. The wire are fine, and the IP I think is ok because the problem came instant, so there was no sign of mecanical degradation. I m disperate on finding a fix because I live in Romania, wich is far from all american mecanics, so please help me with my problem!
Hey buddy i have a 98 6.5 td as well i had the same issue and it might be a rare accurance butbhappened to me with similar symptoms i would check inside the little box ontop of the injector pump it has an optical sensor and right below that is a torque screw if you losen that screw you can actually adjust the timing on the injector pump itself ..mine was lose and retarded the pump timing a little bit
@@Ballisticsqueeze thank you for your answer! I also reached on the optical sensor with my search, but when I saw the 300$ on ebay, I've had some second toughts because of the price. What do you think about swaping the actual IP whith a 6.2 pump?( it is the only pump I have found in my country from a donnor)
No the plunger diameters are smaller on the 6.2 it might bolt up but your trucl would starve for fuel the moment you put a load on it ....yeah there not cheap but welcome to the diesel life lol i ended up buying a parts truck that got rear ended for the price of the injector pump just keep a look out
@@Ballisticsqueeze Hy! I dismounted the cap from optical sensor and the T40 screw was very tight. I loose it and move the sensor sideways but the engine have the same issue. I also unpluged the conector and no change. It seems like the optical sensor is broken.
when you replaced the pmd did you install the resistor board in the new pmd it drops in where the wires hook up it needs this board for the corect fuel flow rate the resistors are available from a #5 to (#9 the #9 will give you a little more fuel on acceleration
thatguy23 synthetic is not the issue here. Spectre is just cheap Chinese junk. K&N is awful on diesel and forced induction setups. I’ve used drop in K&N filters on my 6.5 and they get dirty on the clean side of the filter very easily. S&B and AFE filters are where it’s at.
@@pacificdrumma I build 6.5 for a living think I have a pretty good idea the kn filter is made to be housed in a intake system the s&b filter is great but so is the k47 box for half the money with the kn 4inch filter
Better not cap it off man that you blow from the engine put it to the ground like a big truck you cap it off and you stop blowing gaskets cause crankcase pressure you don't need it put a hose on it and let it blow it out in the atmosphere
Oh I understand. I am an idiot sometimes. Trust me, got a ton of "your an idiot" comments on that one. Thanks for watching. New update video on this truck coming out this week.
