I know this is an older post so not sure you a looking at it but I think I am in the same boat. At least the shop did not replace the HG but they said my cause was a bad upper rad hose. I told them the coolant I saw leaking was back by the EGR cooler or overflow bottle. I was leaning towards the cooler as I could see dried coolant residue on the manifold under the cooler. I will be pressurizing the system to confirm but my original suspicion was likely correct and your info backs that up. Thanks for putting this out there.
Great video! I run a hotshot out of Colorado .. same issues.. thanks for saving me from all the drama and money.. put a aftermarket egr cooler from bostech with tubes in it instead of a radiator style inside egr cooler hopefully good for life!
The RU-vid algorithm dropped this on me, and I know it's an older video but would like to add some info for my fellow RAM 6.7 Cummins owners and mechanics. The only real way to rule out the EGR cooler is for it to be pulled and tested out of the truck. The stock design leaks internally more often than externally, and I will bet you hundreds of head gaskets have been changed that were perfectly fine. The second hard to find leak is the coolant riser pipe. This is the pipe with the bleader screw with an o-ring slip connection to the EGR cooler and where the small line of coolant bottle plumbs to amongst other connections. It is a part with two common failures. The first is the pressed in nipple and the second is the o-ring slip fit. If you're seeing coolant on the ground at passenger side, inspect the riser pipe very carefully when cold and when running for weeps. There is no aftermarket replacement riser pipe available, the OE is made in China, and cost is about $1K currently! The o-ring is an oddball, and avoid anything aftermarket as they won't last the heat cycling, especially if you tow. Even those in the Mahle kit are no good, they'll flatten and you'll leak. You need to buy the replacement from Cummins, not Mopar. Through Cummins, it's $2 and the exact Cummins package with a Mopar sticker with Mopar part number on it is $24 from a Mopar parts counter!
Part of it unfortunately. Hopefully it will help somebody else out and maybe enough people will subscribe and search that it all balances out in the end. The truck drives really strong now though 😅
@@crutchfieldautomotive7936 I need to see about buying a GX off you...that’d ease the pain a bit. I subscribed based on those videos, but grown to love your integrity and way you treat your customers. Can’t think of a better place to buy my project. Best to call JLM website number?
Hey bro I got my eibach kit pro truck lift kit today for the gx but I’m getting mixed answers from people saying you need to replace the upper control arms with ones that are high caster (spc,icon) but I never thought of that until now is this true? I plan on using the second clip setting ( I think it’s a 2.7 inch??) If like to know what your thoughts are. I’d like to keep it stock for now and possibly change it down the road but I don’t want any rubbing issues or mess up my alignment 🙏
If you don’t put it on the highest lip you won’t need a new UCA to get alignment to spec. Black Beauty is on the 2nd clip (for now) and alignment is in spec
$3800 and accomplished nothing, did they give your money back. This is why I don’t like people working on my truck because it’s nothing but a guessing game to these parts replacers, not mechanics.
