600+ Horsepower Trick Flow PowerPort-Topped 500cui Stroker Motor Build 

Ouch!

@moparconnection Yea. I knew someone in the 80s that had a 440 4sp Cuda that he liked to abuse.

Yes they do!

I thought it might've been but it wouldn't fit in the other way Ed - and it came with the kit. Am I supposed to open up the hole in the timing gear to fit it?

@@moparconnection Get in touch with me and I'll help you out with it. Mopar Joe has my number. My name is Ed, may I ask what yours is?

I'm Kevin Shaw, Editor-in-Chief of Mopar Connection Magazine. You can email me directly at kevin.shaw@shawgroupmedia.com

Ok thanks!

Nice! How do you like the FiTech efi?

As nice as the FiTech 6bbl EFI system is, and it IS nice, it has a 600 HP max power rating. I asked FiTech on 2 separate calls if it can be upgraded for more power and both times was told definitely NO. I was going to stick with my Promax modded Holley 6bbl carbs as they're proven to allow for over 600 HP. F&B in California has 3x2 EFI DPI systems that can go well over 600 HP

Nah. It’s fine. And I don’t care much for the look of raw aluminum heads on most builds (some yes, others no).

Good tip!

If he did that someone might accuse him of foresight. Or worse, actually thinking about the value of information at all. Next thing ya' know, he will be taking pictures and storing information digitally. God forbid. Sorry, I know I'm projecting here.

@@moparconnection i have the original packaging, no numbers on the rockers, they were cryo sealed on cardboard, you got what they sent you, I'm in the midst of dualling Banjos with Harland Sharp and Trick flow about getting 1.5 rockers when the kit was advertised with 1.6 on the purchase site....

I kinda want to paint it all orange

Ron is correct. You can trust math or a cam card. I’m really surprised you didnt measure lift at the valve, esp considering you dont actually know the rocker ratio you’re using.

Yes, the card is wonky. Ron's comment is correct.

Smart suggestion

@moparconnection That tip is from an old Mopar magazine article that I have somewhere. It's to redirect oil back to the oil pump area under hard accelerations. If i remember correctly, in small block Chrysler engines, it is done in the lifter Valley area corner to corner. That's what I believe to remember. You'll have to perform your own due diligence to verify. It's all for better oiling of course.

Yikes! When you put it like that…

You’re exactly right, and you’ll see in the second video on this engine that the gasket was removed.

All good. Which video is the second video? I think on the Dyno test video it still had the gasket? My 499" 400 block has the same setup from BCR before SD concepts started making the cap/girdle kit. The 499 is using the Hughes CNC ported Victor MW heads, and they do flow 400 cfm! On a 505" 440 I build with the Trick Flow 240 heads, I had them flowed out of the box and they performed as advertised and were good to bolt on out of the box. @@moparconnection

@@zerogmopars746 When we found the leaking rear main, we eliminated the gasket and used RTV.

Good choice!

We did go all orange!

As it stands I’m happy with the 630HP result. The engine wasn’t slated for a particular car and will be eventually sold to help complete another project - our ‘70 Fury. Yes, Jim and I had determined that the rockers were 1.5 ratio, but thank you for investigating this further. Thats very helpful.

There's a lot of chitchat online that these had a higher nickle blend in the casting; sadly, much of that is not true. (And believe you me, I wish it was!)

@@moparconnection Actually the earlier, the more Nickle, the 50s B-engines have the highest Nickle content. This is what I read at least.

Yeah, my whole life I've heard of "high nickel castings" but haven't seen ANYTHING official from Chrysler to prove this legend. Everyone says they have proof, but their proof is word of mouth. If there's actual documentation, I would LOVE to see it. -K

@@moparconnection a large Mopar magazin tested 50+ Blocks, iirc, I do believe about 20 years ago. They said thin wall is a myth, but the early blocks have higher nickle content.

@@moparconnection I have 2 different books from Mopar that states the early(70-76) 360 blocks were cast with 340 water jacket cores which makes for thicker cylinder wall. As far as alloys go,I have heard that production blocks are "supposedly" better. Race blocks are a different story.

Done!

Hope so!

Thanks Michael! I strongly recommend the proven recipes from INDY (kinda pricey) and 440Source (more budget friendly, less power). 440Source has a 498ci. stroker kit that uses their stealthy aluminum heads that will really look good painted and hidden.

Awesome, thank you!

U r not wrong .

I’ve got the front off of that engine right now - and you’re exactly right. I’m grateful you caught that.

Yes we even show the Trick Flow cam card in this video

We did.

Always to spec

@@moparconnection I meant don't be so rough with the torque wrench

Yikes. That can't be good for the new bearings.

@@moparconnection it's not a issue with the new bearings. We emery them out afterwards. Sometimes tge big blocks can be extremely distorted

LOL no, not pink. And like I said at the beginning a girdle would only really help in huge boosted applications.

Studded and girdled my 451 stroker (using N2O). Added insurance.

Before I decided to use the "improved design" circa 2019 Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block for my stroker build, the S-D Concepts girdle and aluminum cap kit is THE best by far, and was on my list. Excellent choice!

Over 600hp 6500+rpm you better get aftermarket main caps and studs. I wouldn't trust a factory block much past that even with a girdle

I have a 451 400 download 732 horsepower stock main caps eagle rods Pistons Indy cylinder heads 750 roller 1050 dominator been in the car for 9 years bracket car run 5.65 to a 5.72 and 1/8 Mile running alcohol

LOL appreciated

Unless you’re slammed it has plenty of clearance at stock height

Interesting! I've never used a oil slinger/crank seal in ANY of my builds so I've never considered this.

Hmm. That's first I've heard. I'll certainly look into that.

@@moparconnection atf is clear and easy to see-and it "floats" the crap out of the pores wipe till there is no grey on white cloths The oil the cyl depending on how long storage till assembly and NO WD40 which is ok only if there is water, condensation

These are not oil-through push rods, if that is what you were asking.

@@moparconnection not asking just what I do to keep wear down on stock rockers as the HD ones I have not seen in years. OnMechanical rockers the adjuster screws break if screwed out too far and the balls are small compared to FORD, they wear. cup on the adjusters and ball and ball oil through the pushrods work best and move the pivot point up which is usually good

But do you think it’ll be enough to matter?

Nice! Those are some huge gains.

We will certainly do a video on our dyno session. But it won’t be for a month of so (we gotta wait our turn). The hyperlink in the description goes to the short block article.

@@moparconnection Waiting must be hard! If you can include break-in procedures talk about oils and maintenance that would be great. Hope you are still driving the car. Is this a swap or is the car waiting as well for the engine? I’d like to hear what other components you use with the engine like ignition. The valve cover availability is frustrating for sure.

This engine hasn't been assigned to a car. I just put it together for fun!

@@moparconnection big boys big toys

Something fun to put together!

The purpose is to keep the main girdles in place particular in high boost applications. Main girdles are nothing new in the least, and tie the mains to the skirt. The pan offers zero rigidity as I’m sure you know. Two-bolt mains are the weakest; obviously cross-bolted mains would be a superior option instead. But this is an option for those not wanting to cross drill their blocks.

@@moparconnection Well I understand the theory but application seems lacking in this instance to me at least. Many girdles I've seen run parallel to the pan rails and don't actually touch them because they can't due to be unskirted like B's & RB's. I can't see why that couldn't be implemented in a BBM. As you probably know, there are retrofit caps around (from that 440 joint) where you can cross cross bolt the center 3 main caps like a Hemi. Granted, it's not really a job for the average machine shop but it should work. Maybe I'm wrong but the girdle in this can't possibly be rigid enough with the flexible thick gasket connection to the pan rail. It could be as described in my previous post above but the modification required to make it so is extensive and not a bolt in. I've had a bit to do with BBM's over the years and I've found the Mopar performance manual is about right when it states the reliable limit for these blocks is 600hp for the smog blocks. The pre smog blocks are less good, not better. The smog blocks have all sorts of revisions designed to fix issues with the pre smog blocks like that rib in the side of the block and revised deck. Rev these things up with HP over 600 and they seem to crack half the time. I understand many surpass 600 and are fine but many don't. Below 600 they're all fine. This doesn't include the Hemi just any B & RB. Anyway hope I'm wrong, enjoying the vid.

Appreciated and great comment! We've been producing well over the prescribed 600HP in smog-era blocks for decades now - and I know for certain we're certainly not the only ones - so the manual is conservative at best. We're actually looking at doing a cross-bolted main cap conversion on a standard 440 later this year, so it'll be interesting to see how that works.

Ever hear a NASCAR 440 Zumo

Good eye! Yeah, I’ve never used one and thus far have never had a leak out of the timing gear.

@@moparconnection I think it's to help sling oil back on the chain, not so much to help stop oil leak around the seal.

Yes, you're 100% correct!

Nice!

It’s the Trick Flow cam card we show in this video. We’ve been told Howard grinds those for them since the lifters are labeled “Howard’s.”

You bet we did! We show the process in the article linked in the description.

Glad to hear it!

Why build a 318 when you can just jump right up to a big block? (Of course, you'd have to change your transmission - so maybe a 340 or 360 instead.)

@@moparconnection A couple of things. I would have to buy a big block $$. I'd want a 400ci (stroked). The 318 is already in my car so the only thing I would have to buy is the stroker kit. Heads would come later on when I get more money together. 340s are $$$. 360 I would also have to purchase. I don't necessarily have to do it on the cheap but I would like to save as much money as I can. Again, I would love to do this, but I think I would leave the bottom end assembly to the machine shop. They can clearance things and set tolerances. I just don't have the knowledge. And tools, since I have basic tools.

You'll have SIGNIFICANTLY more money in a small block stroker build than a cheap, slightly warmed over 440. Plus, RB440's are still plentiful - every truck, station wagon and motor home came with 'em. I'm picking up a whole '77 short block for $400.

@@normp3273 I'm actually doing this myself right now... go with the big block swap, you can still buy a 440+trans for 1000-1500 easily, running.. My 318 without even stroking it, i will have WAY more into than just throwing in a big block.. I'm doing it cause i have never run a small block though, so i'm playing around.. trick flow heads and other parts.. Next year hoping to build up a 426 small block.

Yes! you’re very observant

Not yet. Dyno's been booked up and we've been waiting on some final parts (everything's on back order!)

We haven't gone to the dyno yet. We're scheduled for later this month.

We did!

Dang buddy, you need some better friends! 🤣

That girdle adds a bit of weight, but not as much as the iron heads and intake do!

400 with al heads and manifold weighs about the same as a SBM and heads flow much better...

Feeling the same.

Yes I did!

In the video we show that it wouldn't go in the other way; unfortunately, installing it like we did in this video is ALSO wrong. We've since removed the cover and timing gear, and clearanced the opening to allow the cam button in correctly.

The new Edelbrock is only 600cfm - that’s waaay too small for a rowdy 500cui engine. We’re going to run the 750cfm Proform on this one.

@@moparconnection oh yes for sure. To bad you cant test your ProForm 750 vs a new Edelbrock 750

Yeah that would be sweet. I’m not even sure if the 750 will be enough carb.

How did you like the Trickflow.600 cam? I have the same build but, can’t find much info on line. Other than Trickflow estimates. Thanks and love the video

The Harland Sharp rockers are 1.5:1 so we're definitely not going to get to the maximum lift out of this cam as recommended. And no, it's a stock valley pan. We changed out the valve covers and added a PCV.

@@moparconnection you are not going to get max area under the curve if you have not checked and adjusted your geometry, which unlike a stud rocker cannot be done by changing pushrods, you have to move the shafts. you want the narrowest pattern on the top of the valve stem, not the most centered too bad those looked like nice valve covers. If you want a second opinion on the cam ask Mike Jones I've been building these since 59Imperial and had a 62 413 Super stock cheers

Appreciated.

.400 lobe lift x 1.5 = .600 at the valve. The 1.7 spec on the cam card is a typo; I verified this with Trick Flow (because they had Chevy BBC on the brain). Hope this helps. Mike @ 440 Source

Yes! We had reached out to Alan @ Summit a while back and he said the same thing. It's a typo (yikes!). Thank you, @michaelbarbarigos9334

Solid idea!

Yessir. We showed pics of that process in the article on the short block, linked in the description.

LOL! She might be a little too rowdy for what we're wanting to do with her!

Why a small block? 426 cubes is meant for Hemis and Max Wedges! 😉

@@moparconnection I have owned like 20 mopars in my life.. never had a small block, doing it for fun :) already got the trick flow heads and a good intake.. so no turning back :) Also.. putting it in a 62 belvedere and want to keep the pushbutton trans which is a small block. And going BB would have been a lot cheaper thats for sure :(

Yup

That's my thought too!

This is a VERY good observation and I considered the same thing. BUT both surfaces aren't perfectly machined to each other. Again, in a more precision build that would require a girdle (this build certainly does not) machining the girdle to the flange would be ideal. Thank you, Duncan!

We’ve got about $11k in parts here. Not exactly a million bucks. And prices from 1990 to 2024 have changed radically.

@moparconnection I used 452 heads , rpm intake, hyd. . Cam , Ross pistons, Eagle rods . Put that in a tube frame 82 Dodge Rampage and run it on the street. zoom. More fun than a million bucks

That does sound like a lot of fun - and pretty dang affordable! Good work!

@@moparconnection if you look on the internet you can find a yellow with flames Dodge rampage with a Dodge Daytona wing on it I built that in south Mississippi Gulfport I donated it to victory junction it got sold and a man said he built it okay whatever

Fantastic suggestions!

Ugh. I really don't want to drill 'em but I might have to.

@@moparconnection Yep, they look like jewelry and it was a hard decision to make holes in them but, it looks good and it worked out. You can actually decide where you want the oil fill to be(forward or back) It will be fine.

Fair point!

So little faith in our build?

Oh, I wouldn't say that.

You are correct with Factory cylinder heads they are very limited. With the cylinder heads he's putting on 600- 650 horsepower should be easily attainable and has been done by many other builders. In today's world that's not much but it will be plenty for most people

Wrong, everything is available to build all the horsepower a man can use -

I think that's the best plan.

That's kinda what I'm thinking.

And that’s why I’m asking.

The 440s are the most neglected engines on earth? The Edelbrock RPM has been their Top5 best seller since the early 2000s (if not longer).

@@moparconnection ?👍🏁

Heck 440 Source is dedicated solely to these engines. I’d say there’s plenty of product for it.

@@moparconnection i never suggested there is not enough product. I have no idea where your coming from? But its all good.👍

Apologies. I must've misunderstood your original comment.

Okay 👍🏻

We’ve got it marked. We hadn’t put oil in it yet.