Can We Break 600 Horsepower? 505cui Stroker Wedge Dyno Thrash • Huge FAILS & Bigger WINS! 

Wow, What a great vid! Thank you for sharing everything. I admire and respect you sharing the flubs with the good, it’s important for us that will be going through this for the 1st time!!!

Took a little digging but I see you used Trick Flow's 240 heads on this combo. We have a 494 RB that's pretty much ready for the dyno right now, the TFS roller cam, 240 heads, Victor 440 intake, 950 HP Holley carb. Nice to see you hit your numbers, we're hoping for similar results from ours.

Nice job guys! My 505 dyno'd at 555 hp and 641 tq, very little tuning! 770 cfm

Little hint, once you're settled out if you make a pull at 300 RPM/second you'll actually get a smoother graph and likely a few more numbers, plus your brake specifics will be a little more accurate since it's got more time to sample the results during the pull.

I'm glad you painted everything, now it looks like an engine instead of a bunch of parts bolted together

Now that you got your practice in, I have 2 440's and 2 400's I need you guys to build. One goes in an "altered" and the other goes in my 73 Cuda. The last 2, who knows.

Good Job.... Nice Engine that runs very well ! IMO, I think it's a good idea because I don't wish to lose any valuable Dyno time, so we always 'check/test' the rear main seal beforehand on every 440 Engine we Machine/Assemble during assembly phase to make sure it doesn't leak prior to feeding the Block Rods/Piston assemblies. BB Mopars are all we do.... so it was important for us to develop a way to check/test their rear main on the assembly stand FIRST. All we use are stock retainers/stock neoprene seals.... No issues.

Good video now it gets me the idea for when i build my 440 i want to make 600+ hp. I have a cam on the shelf that i been wanting to use but don’t know if it’s big enough! Its a bullet cam specs are lift is .592 in & .592 ex, Duration at .050 is 256 and 264!! I was gonna get a stoker kit from 440 source and edelbrock victor max wedge heads with 10.5 compression ratio.

We just made 615/607 from a 471 with an rpm and 550 ish hydraulic roller with the tf240s. No reason any bbchryler should not make an easy 600 with those heads.

Wow I just built a 512 six pack with Fitech injection system for my 1972 Charger Rally can’t wait to get it in

As one f the few Mopar sources, I find it disconcerting that the engine did not start right up. In the 70's this would have been ok with better cam and lifter materials to cover up building mistakes. I have built only 4 complete Mopar engines and all started within a couple rotations. This was due to having the distributor properly indexed, using a distributor with points (to eliminate electronic glitches), having the carb full of fuel, and using a temporary gas supply (to eliminate having to rely on a 20 foot fuel line being primed and the fuel pump working). I never used a dyno (I couldn't afford one) and used a self made engine stand. I wasn't handy, I just couldn't afford any better. Back then I could blame any failures on being young and stupid. Putting in an oil seal backwards, though not fatal, is a mistake "engine" builders don't make. The point of all this is that if you are going to teach your Mopar followers, you need to lead by example. We all know how to go thru a parts catalog or call the manufacturer for advice. We all can put an engine together, but making sure it is put together right is the difference between a good running engine and one that breathes thru the side of the block. Point is, thanks for the videos but you need to make sure your info is truthful and useful to build that perfect motor. Otherwise, we would be better off having an engine assembled by a professional.

Wow 😳. What a beast !!! What size is the cam ? I built a 505 trickflow 240 with 1.6 HS rockers. I was hoping for 600hp/600 tq.

What a beast ! That's some Mopar muscle!

Guy running the dyno should be ashamed of himself. It was clear from the beginning that it was an ignition problem. Don't keep cranking hoping the problem will resolve itself. Mechanics 101 baby

You don’t need Break-in oil for the rings and bearings? What is VR1? Thanks for the response.

One thing I'd like to suggest you test is a Progression Ignition distributor. It runs off an app to your phone! My buddy has one on his 360 powered Dart & it WORKS! I'm not a big fan of new fangled electronics, but it's REALLY hard to argue with the fact you dont have to pull apart the distributor to change weights & springs! Andy Wood from Unity Motorsports gets the credit for turning me on to it & my buddy Jim bought & installed it. Good stuff, kinda like having your biscuits and gravy AND your country fried steak for breakfast! Speaking of which..... 😁

I had a flamethrower 3 on my 306 sbf, ran great (for a while) then, unexpectedly took a dump, wasn't a year old...

Well, that turned out good ! Did anyone find out why the original distributor and plug leads were not cooperating as assembled ? I was going to ask for a parts listing. But someone else already beat me to it ! It would be good to see what the engine was assembled from.

When you are testing a new engine on the dyno are you using break-in oil? If not how are you seating the rings?

Plus I would like to know how you determined that the crush was not enough on the rear main seal?

Boy, I better rush right out and get me a genuine Mancincni rear seal!!

Be nice to know what size and type of carburetor you used and how you got the extra couple horspeower at the end? I assume it was the 1" spacer under the carb?

Question for You did You figure out what Your rockerarm ratio actually is ? Because in Your last video You mentioned that You didn't know what it was . That's a respectable dyno session should make an A body move nicely on the street or the strip ! Great content Thanks . 🇺🇸🇵🇷🦊👍 P/S what would it cost to duplicate Your build ?

I think your paint job looks fantastic, who says you can't paint aluminum. Now it looks like an engine instead of a bunch of different pieces all bolted together

It's a nice way of saying the distributor was in backwards 😂. Never done that🤞.😂😂😂

No, since in mopar shit being so much more expensive than the other brands.

If you cant break 600hp with 505ci you need a sbc lol

Nice! I need one of these for my 1980 D150. I'm kinda new to Mopar Connection, so I may have missed a cost breakdown of this build?

Do you have the cam specifications

Nice results. I'm currently saving up to build either a 451, 470, or 512ci from a 400 block (230 casting). I spent a few minutes on the Mopar Connection Magazine website and I'm having trouble finding the story on this engine to get the full build specs. Would you be so kind to post a link to your build. My '71 'cuda has a stock 383 and I want to keep it safe. Therefore, I'm going with a 400 block as I want it to look mostly stock to the untrained eye. I know your 440 build won't work for me 100% as intake manifolds are limited for the low deck B engine, but the rest should mostly translate as a good guide line... Thank you...

like how any snafus where not hidden. Teaches us all

Editor and chief Mopar guy doesn't know how to install rear main seal in the right orientation and then blames it on the seal. 😂😂😂😂

Wow, major issues that never should've happened ... everyone is an expert until they aren't. Moral of the story? Hire an experienced engine builder.

Rookie mistake on the rear main seal. How many engines have you rebuilt?? 😂😂😂😂

I got screwed by 440 Source on a distributor that was misrepresented, didn't fit, and they wouldn't refund my money. I would be careful doing business with them and their Chinese junk.

For guys that are supposed to be experts pretty novice mistake putting distributor in 180 degrees off. Guess when you break down expert it's true x is an unknown variable and a spurt is a drip under pressure.

a Chrysler RB440 is an "engine", not a motor........Tesla's have "motors" Your comment about there being two different thickness felpro rear main seals is B.S.! They do have different materials, but thickness is the same.